View Full Version : AGIP GEAR 10W-40 API GL-4 or fully syntetic?

04-22-2014, 01:42 AM
Hi! In my instruction book they recomend me to use the oil mentioned above. As my 2012 rs4 50 is modified with derestricted exhaust - should I still use this oil or should i use fully syntetic?

04-22-2014, 12:27 PM
Use fully Syntetic, better protection and better for the clutch wen the engine is cold (less sticky)

Something like Castrol Power 1/RS Racing 10W-40, Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40, or Motul 300V Factory Line 10W-40.
Those are the oils i use(d) my self, currently run Shell Advance Ultra

04-25-2014, 01:10 AM
But shouldn't you use gear-oil? The first mentioned here is some kind of motor oil? I really do not have eny clue about this matter and I am afraid of putting the wrong stuff into the wrong place ..

04-26-2014, 07:12 AM
There Motoroils for Motorcycles, on a Motorcycle the Motoroil and Gearoil usualy are not in seperate areas, those oils tranfer heat better away from hot engine parts just like a motoroil, and can handle being churned in between gears al the time, and are suitable for a Wet Clutch (clutch like yours thats run in oil)

Actualy 10W-40 is a indication for a Motoroil not a Gear oil, true Gear/Transmission oil of the same thickness would be rated 75W-90

On some Motorcycle oils you see both ratings for the reason i mentioned above so you something like 75W-90/10W-40 on the bottle.

Car Motoroil is something you dont want to use as its not designed to be churned between gears (strarts to foam) and damadges the clutch plates.

For the 2 Stroke Oil that sits in the seperate oiltank on the bike and gets injected by a oilpump into the carburator or manifold you should use Fully Syntetic 2 stroke oil suitable for Autolube/Oil Injection (Not Premix Only)

Connor Winter
04-27-2014, 02:46 PM
on my 2003 model it says in the workshop manual to use 75w-90 this would mean i couldnt use 10w-40 which you mention above right? These are what i have found for what i presume is what im supose to use in my bike.

04-27-2014, 04:49 PM
Only the Rock Oil in your top link.

Just pick one of the 3 i named there probably the best options.

Here at Halfords UK:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_26 3977_langId_-1_categoryId_165507

04-28-2014, 08:44 AM
thanks alot for your help. As my manual is saying 10/40 mineral gear oil I am now wondering if I should stay to the 10/40 and just go over to full syntetic? What drawbacks are there if I use 75/90 as Connor is writing ?

04-28-2014, 06:25 PM
Fully Syntetic is much better wen the engine is cold, clutchplates wont stick as much wen cold, also offers better protection.

I already posted this elsewhere and it explains the difrences, please read it carefully:

In most Car engines the Motoroil only lubes the cranckshaft, camshaft and piston And Cools the engine.
The Gearbox is a seperate part from the engine wich uses its own oil, and the Clutch is a Dry clutch, no oil there.
Oil types needed: Motoroil, Gearbox/Transmission oil.

In most 4 Stroke Motorcycle engines the Crankshaft, Piston and Camshaft share the oil with the Gearbox and it has a Wet Clutch wich shares the same oil, also here the oil cools the engine.
Oil types needed: 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil.

In most 2 Stroke Motorcycle engines (like yours) the Crankshaft and Piston get lubricated and cooled by the fresh fuelmixture comming into the engine, the crankcase is seperated by a kind of bulkhead from the Gearbox and Clutch wich both share the same oil.
Oil types needed: 2 Stroke oil, Motorcycle Gear/Transmision oil OR 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil.

Car Motoroil does not like being churned up between the gears of the gearbox and doesnt easly get pushed out between the clutch plates, it leaves a lubricating film behind wich causes the clutch to slip, and some oils even desolve the friction material on the clutch plates, the oil is usualy made up from long molecules to easly transfer heat.
Car Transmision/Gear oil also causes the same problems with the Clutch.

4 Stroke Motorcycle oil is perfectly fine to use in a 2 Stroke bike, as it has the same function, only on a 2 stroke the crankshaft and piston get lubricated and cooled by the fresh feulmixture coming into the engine, but the gearbox and clutch work just the same way.

Motorcycle Transmision/Gear oil is usualy ment for a 2 Stroke bike or a 4 Stroke bike with a Separate gearbox, it doesnt handle heat as wel.

If you buy 4 Stroke Motorcycle or Motorcycle Transmision oil also Always make sure its suited for a Wet Clutch! not all of them are, there are motorcycles with Dry Clutches and/or Separate Gearboxes like some Harley Davidsons etc.

Transmission/Gear Oil is usualy rated as 75W-90 and Motoroil rated as 10W-40 while there the same thickness, they rated it that way to make clear there difrent types of oil with difrent uses to avoid problems/confusion.

Motoroil is much stricter rated and higher quality, for example Transmision/Gearoil 75W-90 is on average compairable thickness to 10W-40, but it can difffer from 5W-30 to 20W-50 because the rating is no where near as strickt.

Because of its better to get 4Stroke Motorcyle oil 10W-40 Suitable For Wet Clutch (preferably Fully Syntetic)

Some high quality Motorcycle Transmision/Gear oils use both ratings 10W-40 and 75W-90.

Again, Always make sure its Suitable for Wet Clutch! (should say on the bottle/discription)

Motul 300V Road Racing Factory Line, Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40, Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40 all are great oils for your bike.

04-29-2014, 01:22 AM
Thanks alot, Patrick. Then I'll go for some of the mentioned oils. Hopefully it will make the gearbox better when it's cold. Nowadays the bike is making a small jump when pushing it to the 1st, when cold. When warm this is no problem.

04-29-2014, 08:49 AM
Exactly, those oils will help with that a lot.

The Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 you can buy at Halfords in the UK for less than 13 pounds.

I currently use Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40 my self, i actualy "think" its a little better than the other 2 but dont know what it cost in the UK, should be available at any Shell Station, ive used both the Castrol as the Motul in the past.

04-30-2014, 04:58 AM
Hopefylly your experience is transferable to my 2012 rs4 50. Anyway I do not live in the UK so I have to find the oil somewhere here in my own country. I can see Halfords has good prices, but still it is not important if I pay 13 or 16 pounds. In the long term the expences are at a level that makes this oil-money just coffee-money :-)

04-30-2014, 05:27 AM
Aplies to all these bikes mate, so also for a 2012 model, along as the manual says that it need 75W-90 Gear or 10W-40 oil for the gearbox.

05-09-2014, 06:53 AM
The manual says "AGIP GEAR 10W-40 Gearbox oil API with GL-4 specifications". I do not understand these things very well, but as far as I understand this is a mineral oil. So I just want to make sure I do not put something wrong which can be cause of damage.

05-09-2014, 08:02 AM
The oil they specify is the lowest qualtity you can use, and its AGIP because Aprilia has a deal with AGIP.

You can use the oil in i specified mate, its no problem and there much better than the oil specified in the manual.
Theres no way any of those oils can cause damadge to your engine.

Your running more of a risk doing damadge to the engine wen using the AGIP Gear oil as its low/medium quality oil, the other i listed are compairable to API GL-6 and are suited for racing engines (rated JASO MA and API SM wich are the highest quality ratings for both the Shell and Motul oil)

Really, there is no way that any of the 3 oils i listed would cause any damadge to your engine as they provide better lubrication, disperce heat better, and provide better clutch operation especaily wen cold.