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View Full Version : Suggestion on rearsets with rear brake master cylinder relocation.



jhirsch
10-20-2013, 12:10 PM
This rear brake problem is pretty annoying. Does anyone have ideas or suggestions for a good pair of rear sets that allow for the master cylinder relocation.

matty-matt
10-20-2013, 01:48 PM
I've got a new set of DanMotos in black that have never been mounted if you want them cheap.
I went with Gilles and a KTM master and have had no issues since.

Tifa
10-20-2013, 02:00 PM
I've got a new set of DanMotos in black that have never been mounted if you want them cheap.
I went with Gilles and a KTM master and have had no issues since.

Ta daaaaaaaaaa.......

RSV4 master (same as katoom m/c I think?)

Works really well, and tidies things up a bit.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee104/argentifa/DSC01016_zps95514eed.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/argentifa/media/DSC01016_zps95514eed.jpg.html)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee104/argentifa/DSC01021_zps73b38320.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/argentifa/media/DSC01021_zps73b38320.jpg.html)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee104/argentifa/DSC01024_zps06924df7.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/argentifa/media/DSC01024_zps06924df7.jpg.html)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee104/argentifa/DSC01048_zps93fb852f.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/argentifa/media/DSC01048_zps93fb852f.jpg.html)

jhirsch
10-20-2013, 03:46 PM
Matty, how much for the danmoto? I saw those and they look nice. Any reason for not using them?

jhirsch
10-20-2013, 03:48 PM
What kind are those in the pictures?

Tifa
10-21-2013, 06:08 AM
Gilles

bloodnutt
10-21-2013, 07:24 AM
Tifa.
Did your master cylinder originally mount next to your radiator overflow bottle or where it is now?
I'm perplexed cause on my 07T m/c is mounted next to overflow bottle.

Tifa
10-21-2013, 08:05 AM
It did mount next to water overflow tank until I fitted the rearsets.

It was then relocated to a machined 'L' bracket that came with the Gilles rearsets, this is mounted to the top of the m/c (on top of the banjo bolt?)

Taylorward5
10-21-2013, 10:36 AM
How much for a set up like that? Looks really nice and clean!

cokoop
10-21-2013, 12:11 PM
An RSV4 footpeg bolts right up and relocates the MC.

squealer
10-21-2013, 05:10 PM
Aprilia performance rearsets relocate it too. You can also fit a tube for the reservoir, bit like a hrc kit. Good quality kit.

Tifa
10-21-2013, 05:22 PM
Aprilia performance rearsets relocate it too. You can also fit a tube for the reservoir, bit like a hrc kit. Good quality kit.

:plus:
Good kit, but needs loctiting to prevent coming loose.

rdecae
10-21-2013, 08:50 PM
I want to keep my OEM foot peg position. is the new tuono4 foot peg position the same as my OEM V2 Tuono.

jhirsch
10-21-2013, 09:43 PM
Gilles

I bought some aftermarket rearsets. Is the black zip tied wire the brake light switch? Wondering if you have to alter the original or go with an aftemarket. Also, can I just run with a brake light switch seeing that I'll never hit the brake brake without the front.

bloodnutt
10-22-2013, 04:36 AM
It did mount next to water overflow tank until I fitted the rearsets.

It was then relocated to a machined 'L' bracket that came with the Gilles rearsets, this is mounted to the top of the m/c (on top of the banjo bolt?)

Does this make brake bleeding any easier.

bloodnutt
10-22-2013, 04:41 AM
Aprilia performance rearsets relocate it too. You can also fit a tube for the reservoir, bit like a hrc kit. Good quality kit.

I bought a set of Aprilia rear sets but there was no mounting bracket for MC.
They didn't like sliding down the road at 70ks so I replaced them with Woodcrafts.
Maybe the ones with that mounting bracket are for RSV's ?

Tifa
10-22-2013, 07:19 AM
Does this make brake bleeding any easier.

Nope...same old, same old.

Mind you, once you've bled it, it's done.
Permanently.

g00gl3it
10-22-2013, 01:31 PM
This might help - although it was still MUCH easier to raise the caliper. But yes, once bled, I can re-bleed using the reverse method without losing pressure. It's just on the initial bleed on a dry system that is a bit of a bugger.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JRzN896Uyw

jhirsch
10-22-2013, 03:16 PM
This might help - although it was still MUCH easier to raise the caliper. But yes, once bled, I can re-bleed using the reverse method without losing pressure. It's just on the initial bleed on a dry system that is a bit of a bugger.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JRzN896Uyw

I've tried both reverse bleeding on my current stock set up as well as removing the rear caliper with no luck. That's why i'm forking over the $$ to fix this annoying problem. When you mention "raising" the rear caliper, can you elaborate? I put the thing in 2 different positions, used a mightyvac and also did the reverse bleed method...no luck. I'm wondering if my master cylinder is dead..? Anyway, hopefully when I get the new parts (New MC and after market rearsets this problem goes away. Still curious though If I have to hold the rear caliper in some certain way to bleed the new set-up I'm putting on?

g00gl3it
10-22-2013, 04:35 PM
I didn't show it in the video, but I completely removed the rear wheel, and zip tied the caliper assembly with bracket up to some area under the seat pan or passenger pegs. Somewhere up high. I had to fiddle with the bleed nipple, and I think the suggestion above to put some grease on the threads is a GREAT idea, and probably why my initial bleed didn't work in the first place. I think I even finally put on a speed bleeder nipple I had in my parts bin (which unfortunately makes it impossible to do a reverse bleed) to get a good feel on the lever. By this point, however, the bleed nipple was the highest point in the setup, so a standard pump bleed pushed any remaining air right out. Quick way to finish off the job I guess? At least the reverse bleed was an easy way to get fluid down into the caliper.

Never had to do ^^ that on any other caliper on any other bike, though. I consider this a quirk of the Tuono.

Do note, however, that no matter how many times you bleed the stock m/c, if it's in the current position it's in, it's going to fail eventually. I think I did mine 3 times, with it lasting maybe 100 miles before I had no pressure, before I finally did the research (all of it done on here, by many folks, so kudos to them) to move the dang thing to a better position. There are options to re-use the stock m/c, but I usually do the research to do it right the first time, so I bought a better unit.

jhirsch
10-22-2013, 10:18 PM
Thanks for all the info. I bought the same m/c as in the video with Gilles rearsets. So it seems like the caliper would still have to be elevated with the new set up? Looks like in the video you had it work with the reverse bleed.

Tifa
10-24-2013, 05:20 AM
To make bleeding easier still, I fitted a bleed nipple on the top of the m/c.
It enables a reverse bleed without opening the reservoir.

g00gl3it
10-28-2013, 11:14 AM
To make bleeding easier still, I fitted a bleed nipple on the top of the m/c.
It enables a reverse bleed without opening the reservoir.

I plan on adding an inline brake switch to the banjo bolt - would the bleed nipple you put on be compatible with that?

rdecae
10-28-2013, 09:01 PM
I am looking to move my MC to vertical position. But I do not want to lose my OEM footpeg postion. In fact I would prefere 1/2" lower and 1/2 forward. All I do is commute and weekend rides. I do not need the extra ground clearance. Does anyone know of a rear set that maintains the stock OEM relationship, and moves the MC to vertical??

Tifa
10-29-2013, 04:13 AM
But I do not want to lose my OEM footpeg postion.

The Gilles rearsets, set on the lowest setting is exactly the same as stock.
I measured them up before swapping over. So no gain, but no loss either.



I plan on adding an inline brake switch to the banjo bolt - would the bleed nipple you put on be compatible with that?

I don't think so, I think you'll need to put a 'T' piece in there.
You run the risk of it looking like a dogs dinner with too much plumbing.