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g00gl3it
10-14-2013, 11:45 PM
So I made a video on how I do this, I know there are many other methods, but this works for me.

Well, actually, it works great for most motorbikes, but that dang rear caliper on the Tuono just likes to be up higher for some reason, so I did eventually have to take it off and re-bleed with it off the bike.

But I've used this method on many other bikes with great success, and I can do it with what little materials I have at home. A mighty vac could be used, yes, but I don't have one, and when I can bleed a rear brake in 5 minutes, and a front in 10 or 15, I don't consider it needful.

Please feel free to comment and see what I could have done better. I'm all for learning how to do things a better way.

Oh, and thanks in advance for the views!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JRzN896Uyw

g00gl3it
10-14-2013, 11:46 PM
I did take video of doing pretty much the same thing for the clutch and I think the front brakes, but it's the same concept. I'll try and get those up in the next week or so.

Raakile
10-15-2013, 05:44 AM
Well done! For those who are mechanically challenged (like myself), this is a great video to learn from.

ChrisE
10-15-2013, 10:33 AM
Nice video, I use the same method, except bought a Phoenix V-12 Brake bleeder ($85). It works the same in principle as you syringes, but you can put the feed/fluid draw end in the new fluid bottle so once primed and connected you are not getting air in the tubes that supply the new fluid.

It's the best brake bleeder system I've come across. It can be used for conventional vacuum bleeding or reverse bleeding, which is my preference especially on new or dry brake lines.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/PSL-2004_xl.jpg

g00gl3it
10-15-2013, 10:47 AM
Chris, that's awesome! I'll definitely look into one of those some day. That is perfect on a dry system as you don't have to worry about dirty fluid, you can just continuously feed the fluid into the system until you've purged it of all air. Very cool!

And yes, on a dry system, reverse bleeding is BY FAR the easiest method. After trying to bleed the front brakes on my 919 on a dry system using the old pump and crack method (it took over 2 hours) I knew there had to be a better way.

BigMeowski
10-15-2013, 02:28 PM
Great video, g00g! One question, when you have the syringe tied up to send the fluid into the caliper, arent you sending pockets of air into there between reloads? Or does the fluid have its way of being pushed through first and the air going back the way it came before entering the caliper bleed nipple?

ChrisE
10-15-2013, 03:55 PM
He's letting the fluid flow from the syringe down into the clear hose, letting the air bleed up the clear hose into the syringe body before inserting the syringe plunger. That's the time consuming part that the Phoenix tool eliminates.

g00gl3it
10-15-2013, 10:15 PM
He's letting the fluid flow from the syringe down into the clear hose, letting the air bleed up the clear hose into the syringe body before inserting the syringe plunger. That's the time consuming part that the Phoenix tool eliminates.


Exactly. That's why I mentioned you could prefill the hose before connecting it to save a bit of time - with two hands it's easier as I can knock the hose with a wrench or something and the air rises faster. Once you get fluid to the bottom of the 'feeding' syringe, the time consuming part is keeping it fed and syphoning off the old fluid.

Tifa
10-16-2013, 05:19 AM
I have a myticac bleeder.
Overall vacuum and reverse bleeding works well, provided that you don't get air comming past the threads on the bleed nipple.

KOCONUT
10-16-2013, 03:02 PM
Really great video, g00gl3it. I have noticed a gradual slopiness in the rear break on my 07 as well. Could you add the name of that blue fluid you used? Should make checking the fluid level super quick and easy, and it looks like it matches my wheels!

NUMBER41
10-16-2013, 03:40 PM
I have a myticac bleeder.
Overall vacuum and reverse bleeding works well, provided that you don't get air comming past the threads on the bleed nipple.

There's a trick to preventing the air inleakage with the Mityvac: before putting the hose on the bleeder nipple, open the nipple a few whole turns and goop on a good thick glob of thick grease, concentrating around the base of the nipple/threads area. I use dielectric grease because it's very viscous. Close the bleeder, throw on the hose, and slide it as far down on the nipple as you can. When the nipple is cracked open to apply the vacuum, the dielectric grease acts like a sealant on the nipple threads and at the hose to nipple connection. Voila, no air inleakage. I've used this trick a million times and it works a treat. Plus, the grease is cheap and cleanup is a snap ( a little WD-40 followed by a normal wash.)

ChrisE
10-16-2013, 03:44 PM
Nice tip, thanks

g00gl3it
10-16-2013, 11:49 PM
Really great video, g00gl3it. I have noticed a gradual slopiness in the rear break on my 07 as well. Could you add the name of that blue fluid you used? Should make checking the fluid level super quick and easy, and it looks like it matches my wheels!

ATE Super Blue - bought it on Amazon, but unfortunately, the USA is stupid, and you can't get it anymore:

http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-news-ate-super-blue-deemed-illegal-for-us-distribution/

But this is the same stuff just not blue:

http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381985322&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+200

g00gl3it
10-16-2013, 11:50 PM
Nice tip, thanks

+1 to that, I'll have to try that next time! I wonder if that's why the rear caliper on the Tuono is so difficult to bleed. Even in reverse.

NUMBER41
10-17-2013, 06:51 AM
I racked my brain for hours trying to figure out WTF I was doing wrong the first 5 or 6 times I tried to bleed brakes with my MityVac. I had wanted one for a few years, but they're pretty pricey for a specialized tool like that. I poked around trying really small hose clamps and what not, thinking the problem was mostly where the hose sealed to the nipple. I ended up (for some reason) looking for accessory kits on Amazon.com, and a guy reviewing the kits on there was complaining that he though he was pulling air in around the threads of the bleeder nipple. That's when it occurred to me that it should be easy to seal those threads with something. At first, I contemplated using Teflon tape or something similar, but remembering how nasty brake fluid is, I didn't want to dissolve Teflon tape into my brake system. That's when I remembered my Navy days, and the extensive use of "thread sealants" on my submarine. So, I figured I'd give some type of grease a shot, and it worked. I got lucky and it not only sealed the nipple threads, but if you put enough on, it will help seal any minor gaps between the nipple & hose. Dielectric has become my go to because it is super viscous and cheap and easy to get. I usually completely drain/flush a pint of fluid through the clutch and brakes on all of my performance vehicles about once per year because this method makes it so easy.

KOCONUT
10-18-2013, 01:37 PM
ATE Super Blue - bought it on Amazon, but unfortunately, the USA is stupid, and you can't get it anymore:

http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-news-ate-super-blue-deemed-illegal-for-us-distribution/

But this is the same stuff just not blue:

http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381985322&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+200


Somehow, I'm not surprised the gov would pull something retarded like this. Anywho, I was able to find some on Ebay. Thanks for the reply!

g00gl3it
10-21-2013, 04:55 PM
Somehow, I'm not surprised the gov would pull something retarded like this. Anywho, I was able to find some on Ebay. Thanks for the reply!

Ah, I didn't even think to check there. Glad you found some! It's great stuff.