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View Full Version : How to secure a 1200 with ADD on a trailer?



CapoSye
09-05-2013, 09:56 AM
Hmmm, I need a bit of advice please.

I collect my new Caponord 1200 next week and am taking it straight to Scotland on a trip. Due to the mileage involved and the 1st service, I am taking it up on a trailer. Now that's not normally a problem but on the 1200 travel pack it might be?

Whenever I have trailered a bike before, I secure the front wheel and then the handlebars and rear footpegs. The nature of tying them down compresses the front forks and rear suspension slightly and the bike stays put. On the Capo, the ADD suspension means that the front and rear are solid and you can't compress them?

So then, how or what is the best way to secure a Caponord 1200 with ADD suspension to an open trailer please?

wrx_02
09-05-2013, 10:22 AM
http://www.ststands.com/main.cfm

nisbeam
09-05-2013, 02:27 PM
Very nice :lover: oh sorry I didn't notice the stand thing. Anyway the suspension is almost rigid but I think there is a bit of movement there. If you secure the front wheel handlebars and footpegs as you suggest the tying down should hold it tight. If you were relying on the suspension before you were lucky, I would say you should tie it down so tightly that there is very little play left in the suspension anyway.

Mr Pope
09-06-2013, 01:57 AM
http://www.ststands.com/main.cfm

Not available in the UK and also not available for the Caponord...

dsgfh
09-06-2013, 02:05 AM
I'd look for something like http://www.kyaracing.com.au/road_tyre_down.htm for the rear wheel and a wheel chock http://www.kyaracing.com.au/wheel_chocks.htm for the front.

This is the best way to tie down any bike as you don't risk blowing fork seals by compressing them too far & holding them under pressure for an extended period.

d'milan
05-08-2016, 09:38 AM
I'd like to revive this thread please...

If I purchase one, I'll probably have to trailer the bike for service now and again.
Not many dealers/service here in Cleveland, Ohio, USA.

Does anyone now know how to safely tie this bike down on a trailer?
Is it mentioned in the owner's manual?

Thanks
d'milan

BeerHunter
05-08-2016, 12:28 PM
Am I missing something here ? My ADD suspension is not rock solid when the engine is switched off. It compresses just like a normal bike.

d'milan
05-08-2016, 03:22 PM
Am I missing something here ? My ADD suspension is not rock solid when the engine is switched off. It compresses just like a normal bike.


I've read that too, I don't get it.
Why would it be rock solid?
There are springs and fluid in those tubes right?
The gizmo on top of the left tube I assumed to be a sensor...

Even on the rear, why would it be locked up.
I understand that the automatic preload adjustment wouldn't be working, by why locked up?

d'milan

ron parola
05-08-2016, 05:12 PM
Yup, locks up solid (the front only) I guess the solenoid that controls the oil flow on the left fork defaults to a closed position with no ( or VERY little) bypass. The right fork is only spring preload, no electronic trickery there. That said maybe I'm just not strong and heavy enough to move the front at all, but turn the ignition on and down it will go. rp

ron parola
05-08-2016, 05:56 PM
Just because I was curious I looked up to see how any of this was serviced; the pressure and temp sensor ( on the fork cap) are serviced, the solenoid ( front solenoid as listed in the wiring diagram) is only listed as part of the fork leg... what's THAT gonna cost?? If Beerhunter's fork moves easily when off maybe it's stuck open, ie full soft?rp

BeerHunter
05-09-2016, 02:40 AM
Just because I was curious I looked up to see how any of this was serviced; the pressure and temp sensor ( on the fork cap) are serviced, the solenoid ( front solenoid as listed in the wiring diagram) is only listed as part of the fork leg... what's THAT gonna cost?? If Beerhunter's fork moves easily when off maybe it's stuck open, ie full soft?rp

Is that dependent on what ADD setting you've selected - ie just when on Auto or all settings ?

Let's all try bouncing our bikes and see what results we get.

BeerHunter
05-09-2016, 05:45 AM
Is that dependent on what ADD setting you've selected - ie just when on Auto or all settings ?

Let's all try bouncing our bikes and see what results we get.

Sorry Guys, I stand corrected. Just checked and it bounces if the ignition is ON but it's solid with the ignition OFF. Looks like I was wr... wro.... wr... .

No I simply can't make myself say "I was wrong" :D

ron parola
05-09-2016, 11:18 AM
I thought I was wrong ONCE.... but I was mistaken rp

BrisbaNord
05-10-2016, 06:55 AM
G'day all, you should see the photo posted by Drake GR - go to the thread "Touring Pack Preload Setting........". page 5, post #70, dated 02-19-16..........observe carefully and then maybe consult with the dealer as to how they got the forks to compress - also note the tie downs are attached to the bottom tripple clamp, not the light weight alloy handle bars........I guess I'm saying be careful and ask lots of questions to those who unpack bikes for a living - the rest of us are just guessing........:banana:

ron parola
05-10-2016, 10:29 AM
How about turning ignition on; ratcheting down tiedowns ( while forks are "soft") and then turning off; thus leaving them compressed??

keithc
05-10-2016, 04:06 PM
Back to the days when I used to go off road riding, a lot of the guys put one of these on the bike,
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/mx-off-road/tie-downs-transportation/bike-it-fork-supports

as the bike is then tied down without compressing the suspension to much and blowing the seals. You would need to remove the front mudgaurd, but thats not to difficult.

Keith C

d'milan
05-11-2016, 08:18 AM
Lots of good feedback here so far

Still don't know how to safely secure the bike to a trailer with tie downs..

This is of special concern to me because I have read of reports of leaking fork seals.

One gent over at another site wrote that he hasn't been able to ride much in the last few months.
He likes the idea of starting the bike up and letting it warm up once a month or so.
Whether that practice is good to do is debatable, but the point is that recently he was greeted with a small puddle of fork oil table on the ground underneath the left tube.

I don't want to create any problems by simply trying to occasionally transport the bike (still haven't purchased)

Maybe I'll try to contact Aprilia USA... although I get the feeling that...well... you know

Good site, quite helpful and friendly

TY
d'milan

Spudpie
05-11-2016, 10:28 AM
I have the Baxley LA Chock. The device holds/locks the front wheel of the bike, and there is no need to attach any straps to the front. I have transported several bikes thousands of miles without incident. I have transported my Capo by:

#1) rolling front wheel into chock.
#2) attaching tie-downs to the passenger peg subframe brackets

Take a look at the Baxley site. It can explain things better than I.

http://www.baxleycompanies.com/LAChock.html

Spud

d'milan
05-11-2016, 11:58 AM
Thanks

In fact, I have the Baxley Sport Chock and was planning on using it for the front wheel when trailering.

http://www.baxleycompanies.com/Sportchock.html
.

Any time I would be trailering the bike it would be on a U-haul motorcycle trailer. The chock would not be secured to the bed.
Do you secure your LA Chock to the bed when trailering?

Spudpie
05-11-2016, 12:38 PM
I drilled out the floor of my trailer and secure the chock with nut & bolt. I don't know about the Sport chock, but the LA chock has holes for securing it to the floor. You would have to weigh the options with a U-Haul. I believe some of the smaller, open trailers have grated decks that you could pass hardware through. Hope this helps.

Spud

BrisbaNord
05-12-2016, 04:58 AM
How about turning ignition on; ratcheting down tiedowns ( while forks are "soft") and then turning off; thus leaving them compressed??

Hi all, Ron has a point and I assume that's how the Aprilia factory gets the forks down half way in the crate.

Compressing the forks does not 'blow' seals - I have assisted several race teams and helped my bike mechanic cousin to recover bikes in his utility truck and that is the only way to safely and securely transport a bike - again, you MUST have a look at the photo posted by DrakeGR - it shows how Aprilia sends Capo's around the world........anybody that has a blown/leaking fork seal has another issue causing that eg a stone chip on the chrome fork slider tube or a dud fork seal (they can easily be damaged at assembly if the correct procedure is overlooked) or overfilled oil levels/no cir-clip locking the seal in place etc.

Cheers from an :aussie:

Ps I have noticed that the forks still stiffen up a few seconds after powering the ignition on, so I'm still guessing that the factory either is real quick at tying down the forks (I know how to do this but it would take a video to explain it......but I don't know how to do the video and I'm camera shy for good reason) or they fire up the motor for the few minutes it takes to crank the forks down.........orrrrr, maybe they have a sneaky way to disable the ADD on the fork leg so it unlocks the damper valves........let us know what you discover....

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