View Full Version : Rs50 Project, Bad Streetfighter conversion to Standard

05-13-2013, 03:44 PM
Hello all, new on here.
20 years old, had a 50 scooter back when I was 16, been driving a few years and fancied another 50 project.

Found this and managed to get it for 400, cheap I thought. Has had a really bad streetfighter conversion but comes with all original stuff, minus the handlebars which have been ordered. Its an 05 Spec RS registered in 06 on a 56 plate.


Currently in the process of stripping it down and giving it a good clean, and a tidy up of all the wiring, which has been butchered to accomodate the stupid front lights.
Tonight I made a new headlight loom, pictures to follow.

05-13-2013, 04:59 PM
also missing the dash? hope you got that with the parts...

these bikes are a lot of fun due to there low weight and good performance wen upgraded.
You can get loads of after market stuff for these bikes.

Good luck on the project and dont be afraid to ask for help.

05-13-2013, 05:02 PM
I actually prefer that to normal if the front had been done better and solo seat but that's just my opinion

05-13-2013, 05:13 PM
I think most people prefer the stock front fairing on these bikes, looks sexy and aerodynamicly there also realy good, if it rains and you can keep a reasonable speed it can even keep you dry because it deflects the air away from the rider.

Hopefully he doesnt miss to much or things are not seriously damadged (im guess ing the bike has been crashed and thats why it was removed)

05-14-2013, 01:55 AM
Saw that bike on ebay on and off for a while. Will be good to see the bike restored back into a nice looking 2 stroke sports bike.
Colour wise, bright red would look nice. As for fairing panels, ebay.

05-14-2013, 02:03 AM
Saying that theres a full fairing set at 49 bid not been bid on yet been on for 4 days

05-14-2013, 07:54 AM
I watched a FULL FARING set go on ebay for 9.99 it needed spraying though what a bargain!

05-14-2013, 02:10 PM
Thanks for the replies. All the main panels were included. If it was crashed it hasnt damaged the forks or steering bearings, so think im lucky. The bike has been dropped, but the panels are not too bad at all really, the scratches will sand out, not deep at all.

The pictures dont show the dash, its not complete, so have bought a complete one, although the speedo and temp gauge were included and fitted.

Need a bit of help regarding minor panels though, I need a panel that fits behind the front wheel, covers the radiator area and connects to the main front fairing? Quite rare apparently, but need one really. And I also need some brackets for the middle of each side fairing? Dont know where is best to get these though.

Spent lastnight making a new headlight loom as the previous one had been butchered for the aftermarket lights. Will get pics up soon.

One more thing.... I googled the part number for my dellorto carb PHBN, apparently this is a 17.5mm? when standard is a 12mm?

If you can help with anything here, then fire away.... thanks :)

05-14-2013, 02:29 PM
No raid cover neather any side fairings brackets on eBay but is here


05-14-2013, 02:46 PM
I would just make your own fairing brackets, although may take a few 'mock' atemps will save the money in the long run, and while your at it, make them stronger! Fet some 3-4mm flat steel and bend them and add a slight 'kink'
in the center if you can
for the stregnth

05-14-2013, 04:27 PM
All panels can be found on ebay cheap. Clocks aswell. All easy to get hold of as these bikes are broken for spares so often.

These bikes come as standard with either 12mm or 16mm i think. You must have an aftermarket carb fitted :)

05-15-2013, 04:29 PM
Thanks for the replies.
Just another quick question, headlight bulbs..... are they both the same? or are they slightly different? i know they are a dual filament bulb, but not sure whether the left and right beams use the same.

Will get more pics up soon, had some new parts arrive.

05-15-2013, 05:00 PM
There the same bulbs, the high beam fillament is the one most to the socket with out the shield, and the front one with the shiel is the low beam fillament.
In your case I Think (not sure because i never seen a UK version headlght unit) the left headlight would only have the high beam fillament hooked up, and the right headlight would only have the low beam fillament hooked up, note that the reflector behind the the bulbs in the headlight unit are difrent left and right, so make sure you get that right or you end up blinding oncomming trafic!
p.s. the low beam fillament should have the shield under it so the light from it shines up onto the reflector and gets reflected down to the ground.

05-19-2013, 02:01 PM
Ok thanks, will check it out!!

05-20-2013, 03:23 PM
So, some pictures of things, here is the headlight loom I made, recycling the spade connectors off the butchered loom that the previous owner supplied, some auto wire and heatshrink to keep it neat.

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/D889F975-3E19-48FD-AF45-B9BE572DCBEA-5121-00000B0C8BF855D1.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/D889F975-3E19-48FD-AF45-B9BE572DCBEA-5121-00000B0C8BF855D1.jpg.html)

New handlebars and top yoke have turned up. The Renthal ones supplied looked weak and when i lifted the bike up they snapped clean through on the bend, confirming my thoughts. Think they were from a mountain bike or something! Bottom yoke was included with the handlebars but already have this, so its going on ebay!
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/4AFE88D8-9483-434D-B768-C08937456821-5121-00000B0CAF992529.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/4AFE88D8-9483-434D-B768-C08937456821-5121-00000B0CAF992529.jpg.html)

Also shows exhaust end can after a quick polish.

New dashboard and front fairing bracket, already had the speedo and temp gauge but the warning lights and rev counter were missing, bought the lot anyway as it came with the bracket.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/3D006C9C-E706-4288-A1BE-31AD58C6B881-5121-00000B0C9EF66351.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/3D006C9C-E706-4288-A1BE-31AD58C6B881-5121-00000B0C9EF66351.jpg.html)

Should be more updates soon, but busy at the moment and dont seem to get much time, as its the middle of the race season and I have to work weekends!!

05-21-2013, 01:22 PM
Quick update......
Decided on my colour scheme. Want to go for a matt black base with touches of red in places (maybe the tank). Chrome levers and some engine parts. I know matt black is commonly seen on these bikes, and is often done badly by kids, but my last 50 was done in matt black properly and looked very good with red trim.

Also... Due to it missing a few of the smaller panels, eg. The radiator cover and coolant filler panel, the bike may head towards more of a custom style than standard. I may trim the side panels to show a bit more of the clean engine/transmission. Just ideas at the moment, but will make a final decision in time!!

And... Forgot to mention, i will be doing all spannering as I am a race mechanic by trade!!

05-21-2013, 01:40 PM
Do Gloss Black with Matt Black "highlights", maybe as outline for the red painted sections.

05-21-2013, 02:13 PM
That could work, as I said, its all just ideas at the moment.... But I appreciate any input!!
Will be pulling out the engine this week and stripping off any dirty bits to clean and polish.
New coolant, gear oil and brake fluid aswell. Although, I had a bit of trouble trying to bleed up the front, pumped fluid through, but it never seemed to bleed properly. The lever kept coming back to the bar. I am familiar with the brake bleed routine, just wondered if there is any special tips for this? If not then I think a master cylinder rebuild may be in order!!

Here are the side panels as they are now... For those who are interested
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/BA97F05D-CCE9-45AC-A7B7-85599E69F156-5350-00000BD694FFBFA1.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/BA97F05D-CCE9-45AC-A7B7-85599E69F156-5350-00000BD694FFBFA1.jpg.html)

Picture of the engine aswell...
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/0132EE57-724E-41B9-91F2-509483CEA18F-5350-00000BD6A6134A81.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/0132EE57-724E-41B9-91F2-509483CEA18F-5350-00000BD6A6134A81.jpg.html)
Quite clean and tidy, but the wiring and cables were a bit messy and engine cases could be a bit cleaner.... Note the poorly applied sticker on the frame

05-21-2013, 02:46 PM
I would like to see a pic of the renthal bars that broke as I haven't seen a pair brake in such way unless crashed badly

05-21-2013, 02:54 PM
I will upload a picture as soon as im back home tomorrow, I assure you they were straight, as i gave them a good check over because I was planning on selling them on ebay (I didnt need them as I was going back to standard). They sheared straight off just above the brace bracket. Maybe they were a fake copy or something as it looked like it was made of monkey metal. Or maybe I shouldn't have lifted the bike up with them. I dont know...

05-21-2013, 03:00 PM
Well the ones i fitted to mine and the bracket I made to fit them can easily handle the bike being lifted up by the handle bars and have survived the whole bike being slammed onto them and not even bent them unlike the stock bars that you could bend easily

05-21-2013, 03:19 PM
Interesting. Just telling you what happened, as i say, will put a picture up. It hasnt bothered me that they broke as I didnt want to keep them anyway.

05-21-2013, 06:11 PM
I find the front brakes on the RS50 normaly bleed really easy, on the rear brake i tahe the caliper off and put something as thick as the disk in between the pads wen bleeding so i can hold the caliper in such a way that the bleeder nipple isnt upside down.

Make sure you use DOT 5/5.1 as in the manual, the caps say DOT 4 but the rear brakelightswitch doesnt like that to much...

05-22-2013, 10:24 AM
Elliot - I think the bike would look nice if the panels were standard ie not cut up. Also, have you thought of doing a genuine RS50 colour scheme of some sort? If you like the idea of black and red then look at the 2004/5 model like the one in my avatar picture (I have a picture album on here you can access it via my profile). Just a thought...

Your frame would look nice polished. Best get the Autosol out eh! ;)

Have you got any performance modifications planned? Light porting, big bore kit, carb or pipe?
I am using the stock barrel with a Arrow exhaust and 0.30 reed petals and the bike is quite lively for what it is. Brilliant fun! An after market expansion chamber makes all the difference.

05-22-2013, 02:38 PM
Thanks for the replies.
The frame will be getting autosol'd at some point. On the subject of performance, I may do something but at the moment the plan is just to get it looking respectable. I did do a bit of port work and modifications on my old 50 twist and go.
I think someone has already tried some performance changes already. Carb is a 17.5mm and the airbox has been modified, the section where the rubber hose connects to the carb has been cut out (badly), and seems to have had a bigger union/rubber put in. Will get a pic up when I next do work on it.

05-23-2013, 07:38 AM
Stock Airbox has a verry large hole stock where the rubber for the carb goes into.

05-23-2013, 01:53 PM
Ok thanks. Just looked like the hole wasnt cut particularly neat. Must just be how it is!!
Due to have thr tacho cable arrive today aswell as the new levers. Got plenty of work to do on the bike the next few days!!

05-23-2013, 03:05 PM
thats weird, the hole for the airbox rubber should be a neat round hole... are you sure it is the stock airbox for your bike? and not something someone made to fit?

This is the top of the stock airbox, the oval hole is a second intake tube i made wen i had a 24mm carb on my bike to let more air in.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/RS_Patrick/opening.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/RS_Patrick/media/opening.jpg.html)

Otherpics of it seen from the inside.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/RS_Patrick/modifaction.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/RS_Patrick/media/modifaction.jpg.html)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f173/RS_Patrick/modifacation2.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/RS_Patrick/media/modifacation2.jpg.html)

Dont have any pics of the hole for the rubbermanifold to the carb though.

05-23-2013, 03:58 PM
Hmm, mine may be a bodge then. It has about a 100mm diameter hole that the rubber hose to the carb fits in. Will get pics tomorrow !

05-23-2013, 06:54 PM
http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p-Aprilia_RS_50_1999__2005_original_air_filter_box-6109.aspx i forgot about this one, thats what the fully stock airbox looks like.

05-24-2013, 05:50 AM
Ok that actually looks a bit more like mine. Will have a closer look in a minute!! Just about to get the bike out and start some work on it.
These goodies turned up in the post today...
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/26414b60-32a7-4e1f-8c16-64185d314dc0.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/26414b60-32a7-4e1f-8c16-64185d314dc0.jpg.html)

05-24-2013, 08:20 AM
Brakelever doesnt come with the pin that pushes the piston in, hope you got that part stil.

Airbox i have and the one in the pic are the same, i just moded the top bit to get enough air going trough for my old setup, mod also works on a stock bike, makes a deeper and heavier sound with out getting much louder.

05-24-2013, 08:45 AM
Think I got lucky with the brake lever, as it did come with a screw, although I already have that off my old set. Only really needed the clutch lever so it matched the brake, but bought both! Didnt get as much done today as I would have liked as it rained as soon as I started, then stopped when I got in... Typical.
Heres the Renthals that broke
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/ABBC026C-22AC-4615-A929-6AE1E6FD54DE-6140-00000DA1EDF8A635.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/ABBC026C-22AC-4615-A929-6AE1E6FD54DE-6140-00000DA1EDF8A635.jpg.html)

Old yoke off
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/6A9F8894-A44F-47D9-9A0B-A940A8C044CB-6140-00000DA1E61B73D5.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/6A9F8894-A44F-47D9-9A0B-A940A8C044CB-6140-00000DA1E61B73D5.jpg.html)

New yoke and bars on
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/7EA76F18-F0AF-4F80-9ABF-A7E720D4B1DB-6140-00000DA1F4CC71FA.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/7EA76F18-F0AF-4F80-9ABF-A7E720D4B1DB-6140-00000DA1F4CC71FA.jpg.html)

I also managed to fit the new Nose fairing bracket and clocks, but forgot to get a pic.
Hopefully more tomorrow.

05-24-2013, 09:38 AM
Nice braided brake lines!

05-24-2013, 10:19 AM
Yeah, they came with the bike. Only on the front though. Had been routed quite badly with the line pulled very tight. Will be ok when its all re-assembled.

05-24-2013, 01:16 PM
Although its very early days on the tuning side, what do you guys recommend as a cheap/reliable starter 70cc kit and exhaust? Wasn't planning on any performance changes as I just wanted a runabout bike, just useful to know for the future.

05-24-2013, 01:32 PM
Although its very early days on the tuning side, what do you guys recommend as a cheap/reliable starter 70cc kit and exhaust? Wasn't planning on any performance changes as I just wanted a runabout bike, just useful to know for the future.

For a cheap but quality 70cc kit then I would reccomend the Stickyparts 70cc kits (5 port 95 and 7 port 120). More low down power which makes it more ridable and enables you to pull taller gearing (bigger front sprocket) for more top speed.

For a more powerful kit then the Polini Cast Iron kit 80cc (true 76cc i think) will do all the same but more.

Both kits are Cast Iron which means they're re bore able and both are twin ringed.

Doppler endurance cranks are supposed to be best.

However, the stock cylinder kit with a decent exhaust system like an Arrow or LeoVince V6 pipe will perform very well. Im running stock kit with an Arrow and it soon indicates 50mph and a few seconds later the speedo is reading 60 odd.
Stock cylinder kit with a performance pipe, 19mm carb and 0.30 carbon reeds will liven things up no end!

All parts can be found off Pedstop for very good price.

05-24-2013, 03:10 PM
Will check them out!! Thanks for the advice.
Hoping to pull the motor out tomorrow and give it a good check over and change fluids maybe. Still not sure about my carb, as a quick google search reckoned it was a 17.5mm (apparently aftermarket, with an 86 jet I seem to remember). Will check again tomorrow to confirm

05-24-2013, 03:27 PM
Measure the smallest diameter of the venturi and that will confirm the size of the carb. Use a vernier calliper.

05-24-2013, 06:47 PM
Size should be stamped onto the carb just like the type wich you also need to know incase you need to order jets etc.
DelLorto SHA and PHBN are stock type carbs, yours should have a PHBN carb, not sure on the diameter as it varried per countrie and year.

05-25-2013, 11:45 AM
Finally got round to doing some work on the RS. Here is a pic pf the 'airbox hole' that had been discussed earlier in the thread. Hole looks a bit messy compared to the pic I was shown on here.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/404D9C84-84EC-462D-A839-316C662A0060-478-0000002E6BC6B556.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/404D9C84-84EC-462D-A839-316C662A0060-478-0000002E6BC6B556.jpg.html)

So, I gave the airfilter and airbox a quick clean while it was out.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/6EFAA9C5-FA62-4EF7-ADCC-4D4ADA1035A0-478-0000002E9105E387.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/6EFAA9C5-FA62-4EF7-ADCC-4D4ADA1035A0-478-0000002E9105E387.jpg.html)

Then refitted it
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/41EF6482-3F82-40B4-A195-328272354C63-478-0000002E99A1E734.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/41EF6482-3F82-40B4-A195-328272354C63-478-0000002E99A1E734.jpg.html)
Still need to remove that awful attempt at a bridegestone sticker that someone thought would be a good idea.

Exhaust fitted, going for the standard exhaust at the moment as its still in good condition and not a bad pipe from what ive read.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/6CFBC5D4-D8E6-4E04-90DA-6C480341A937-478-0000002E8A5E305B.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/6CFBC5D4-D8E6-4E04-90DA-6C480341A937-478-0000002E8A5E305B.jpg.html)

Got the dash fitted today too, all lights work as they should and the new tacho cable works a treat after a bit of shortening at the rev counter end.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/9B8D6308-E7BD-44CC-92A8-41CAC07586DB-478-0000002E73E4C1B6.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/9B8D6308-E7BD-44CC-92A8-41CAC07586DB-478-0000002E73E4C1B6.jpg.html)

Also fitted the new levers and managed to fix the switchgear to the handlebars after the previous owner managed to destroy the locating pins. A couple of bolts works well.
I decided to make a start on prepping the bodywork too, the nosepanel looks like its been several different colours in its life, and my primer reacted with something in there after smoothing it all out.
Going to try and have another go at the paintwork soon, may try some paintstripper, and just be careful it doesnt melt the plastic.

Next on list... New grips, paintwork, bleed front brake, refit all panels

05-25-2013, 12:03 PM
Someone for some reason did cut the hole a bid whider it seems...

On your stock pipe between the manifold and expansion chamer theres a flange, you need to take it apart there and remove the restriction that in there, cone shaped bit with a tube.
Aftermarket pipe makes a big difrence though.

05-25-2013, 12:11 PM
I think its been done already, as I took it apart the other day to paint it and it looked full size in there, also been upjetted to suit,

05-25-2013, 12:26 PM
A race tuned expansion chamber will make a world of difference...

05-25-2013, 12:30 PM
I know they are an improvement (my old 50 was a different bike with its Leo Vince), but for now until ive got the bike complete and looking good, the standard one will do!!

05-26-2013, 10:46 AM
One thing I did notice whilst installing the clocks -as they are a mix and match of what I had- was that one of my speedos read upto 50mph and one up to 80mph. Just wondered if this differed with year, model, import or weather it was just a random thing that differed?

05-26-2013, 02:34 PM
Difrent year, the older clocks rear to 120km/75mph and the newer ones that are supost to be on your bike go to 80kmh/50mph. (they just stop counting half way :p: )

05-26-2013, 03:09 PM
As Patrick said. Dont think rs50's came with a speedo reading up to 80mph though Matt.

05-26-2013, 03:35 PM
Ok then, useful to know :). Im sticking with the original speedo (50 mph one) as it has the correct mileage on it.

05-26-2013, 04:42 PM
Ok then, useful to know :). Im sticking with the original speedo (50 mph one) as it has the correct mileage on it.

Might not be possible and you might not be bothered, but if you were you might be able to swap or buy a difference speedo backing that goes up to 75mph. But I guess you want to get it on the road first before going into detail like that.

05-27-2013, 02:51 AM
Pretty much, I do have another backing that goes up higher, do you know if they come apart easy enough??

05-27-2013, 10:27 AM
Attempted to prep and paint the nose fairing today, Got a really smooth surface, some back to the primer and some back to the red. Tried using primer and tried painting straight onto it, both reacted with something on there, dont know what the previous owner used on there as ive never had a problem on the other fairings.... Ah well. But I did find some old bright red gloss spray in my garage which adhered well and gave a decent finish. So may do it in red instead, no pictures of the paintwork as it was just a test area, more paintwork next week when im back from Red Bull Ring.... Busy weekend.
Did get it running today and did a few laps of the garden checking all the gears and clutch bite etc. All seems good, but reckon it needs a gear oil change (what oils do you guys use??).
Also noticed the exhaust leaks around the second joint, but cant seem to find a replacement gasket online anywhere :S. Pic below of where I mean.
Some pictures of how it stands at the moment.

Clocks, working speedo, rev counter and temperature gauge
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/4574944C-F2D1-46DB-829F-4EB81999D4C0-1159-00000268609944BE.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/4574944C-F2D1-46DB-829F-4EB81999D4C0-1159-00000268609944BE.jpg.html)

Tank on, dont like the relentless tank pad, but the paintwork on the tank is fine and dont want to ruin it by taking it off! I also noticed I have a bolt for the top yoke where I routed the brake line, so I will need to move it round the front somewhere.
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/4C8ABCAE-98AA-4B6B-B969-9347DFE8B222-1159-000002686B1AAF4A.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/4C8ABCAE-98AA-4B6B-B969-9347DFE8B222-1159-000002686B1AAF4A.jpg.html)

Needs a clean under here
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/EFE1DE16-E675-4161-8138-90AF968E7972-1159-0000026876DEC651.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/EFE1DE16-E675-4161-8138-90AF968E7972-1159-0000026876DEC651.jpg.html)

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/D7FC1906-EDC3-4A35-B851-8BDF22019A96-1159-0000026880F9B8EB.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/D7FC1906-EDC3-4A35-B851-8BDF22019A96-1159-0000026880F9B8EB.jpg.html)

Leaky exhaust joint
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/6F6713AC-A0F6-402B-884C-1DB82FDFDB4F-1159-0000026887DB78A1.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/6F6713AC-A0F6-402B-884C-1DB82FDFDB4F-1159-0000026887DB78A1.jpg.html)

How it is right now
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/EF3AD8CD-AD72-42AD-9FEC-C7EF9D1F2C9B-1159-000002688EA85538.jpg (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/EF3AD8CD-AD72-42AD-9FEC-C7EF9D1F2C9B-1159-000002688EA85538.jpg.html)

Does anybody know the legal limit on tyre tread depth? Is it different to a car? Thanks

05-27-2013, 10:31 AM
Just ordered coolant bottle holder inner fairing (whatever its called), new grips, new indicators all round and a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up!

05-27-2013, 10:48 AM
The exhaust joint bolts are not the Original ones, so guess someone already removed the restrictor there from the pipe.

There should be wear indicators in the tire tread, but i think there tread limit is less as for cars.

bike doesnt have a feul gauge or anything... just a reserve, so never forget wen your filling her up after shes almost empty to turn the tap back to On, or else you might find your self running out of feul and wen you want to turn the tap to reserve its already on it... had that my self once.

the blue, white, red geuge is the temprature geuge, wen the bike is at 20 degreas celcius and you turn the ignition on it should barly lift of the needle.

05-27-2013, 11:29 AM
Sorry, i did mean temp gauge... Not fuel gauge as written in original post!!

05-27-2013, 11:41 AM
That exhaust has been cut up and messed with by the looks of things. Stinger is alot shorter than what a stock pipe should be. Tank pad might come off easier with a little heat. I would seal up the exhaust joint by making a gasket with gasket material.

05-27-2013, 11:53 AM
Yeah, im beginning to think its an exhaust thats came off a similar bike, maybe a Derbi or something? As none of the Aprilia exhausts on ebay have a flange joint there. The mounting bracket on mine also doesn't fit the way it should. Its had a poor excuse of a bracket made up to hold it on. Don't really want to buy a new exhaust but if I do then I may aswell get an aftermarket, these seem hard to come by second hand though and I cant really afford a brand new one.

05-27-2013, 01:55 PM
The silencer is defiantly Aprilia. I doubt any manafacturer would make a join from the header to the expansion chamber like that. I would say its a messed about with Genuin Aprilia pipe.
There is usually an Arrow pipe on ebay. Put up some wanted adverts on the appropriot forums aswell.

05-27-2013, 02:41 PM
Its an RS50 1999/2000 pipe, but someone chopped the tailpipe/stinger as apriliamandan spotted, if you look at the fule zise picture you can see its been rewelded at the expansionchamber.

joint/flange from the header to expansionchamber is Original as i said

nathan k
05-28-2013, 05:27 AM
Actually Derbi uses the same connection :angel:

05-28-2013, 05:29 AM
Its an Aprilia pipe though but the stinger shortened. The pipe will be producing less back pressure I would of thought.

05-31-2013, 11:33 AM
Actually Derbi uses the same connection :angel:

Thats what i told you remember?

@apriliamandan: i dont think the stinnger lengt will make much difrence, though on the stock exhaust i guess it would be greater because of the type of silencer used.

06-30-2013, 09:29 AM
Hey all, haven't posted for a while. Been flat out at work. Bike should be ready in a week or so, been busy sanding panels as it has had so many layers of different paint through its 9 previous owners, my paint is just reacting. Updates soon!!

06-30-2013, 03:09 PM
If you can get 2 component paint that basicly stays a bit flexible that would be the best choice probably for the fairings.

12-10-2013, 09:25 AM

Given up on the bike now.
Too many niggly bits to get right and I just don't have the time, especially as I'm in Aus/NZ for 7 weeks as of January.
Getting fed up with finding bits and everytime I fix something, something else fails.

Also found out that it is now appearing as a CAT C, which it didn't when I first got it.

So.... I am deciding how to sell it, Strip it and sell, or sell as a spares/repairs.
Just had the fairings repainted gloss black by a mate (Not prefessional, just he has an airbrush, so would be better than rattle cans).

Any ideas or potential buyers, let me know!


12-10-2013, 09:37 AM
Thats a shame Elliot.
A picture of what state the bike is in now would be helpful for us to give prices and whether to split or sell as a whole.

12-10-2013, 09:50 AM
Looks finished, minus the fairings which I pick up today.

The front brake wont bleed up, think the master cylinder/ lever are wrong, moves around far too much.
Needs a new right hand switch gear/ throttle housing/ throttle (got butchered by previous owner and moves around too much).
Needs front brake light switch/loom, 1.50 from maplin if you know how to solder some wires onto it.
Needs indicators fitted all round, which I have (Brand new, but aftermarket).
Needs handlebar grips.
Lots of little pieces missing that dont really do anything
Needs brackets making for bodywork.

12-10-2013, 10:18 AM
On the road with T&T but tatty condition examples go for anything under 800. I doubt you could get much more than 500 for it.

Theres more money in breaking these bikes when they're incomplete I reckon. I would possibly be interested in parts.

12-10-2013, 12:24 PM
If you part out this is roughly what to sell for

Engine plus carb all electics for it and exhaust (300 to 400)
Fairings (150) unless tatty (70 to 90) including seats and lights (know this as I paid 70 for full fairings plus seats, tank, headlight)
Wheels (80 to 100 for both)
Forks (100) including yokes and handlebars
Frame with subframe and swingarm (tatty 60 to 90 good nick 100 to 150)
loom with all other wires (20 to 40)
Brakes with disks (50 to 80)
what evers left about (100)

Its easier to sell as full bike but it will be cheap you can sell as part parts as in everything in bits including engine for a a lot mor ebut it will take a long time to sell that way so try if sell as parts to sell in bulk like I just showed you

If you decide you can't be bothered to do that I'll put a bid in for all of it at 150 (cheeky yes but I brought a bike in better shape than yous for that)

12-10-2013, 01:03 PM
Like Zav has just shown, theres far more money to be had parting the bike out.

I'd take the forks off you (if they are not too badly pitted) if you'd be willing to post.

12-10-2013, 01:25 PM
Yeah I know I have I don't see point in telling him it's worth nothing then buy it for nothing to get greff further down the line like I did Connor told him it would cost roughly 300 to 400 he wanted 500 at first I got it for 200 spent 40 and sold for 600 then brought back again and since then it's been striped of all fairing and strapped to the wall off the ground with all it's parts under it

This guy could easily get 400 for it if he worked for it as he paid too much for it in first place

12-10-2013, 01:38 PM
The bottom line is, more money is to be made breaking these bikes unless they're very good. Parts are in high demand.

12-10-2013, 01:51 PM
True but from how he's gave up doing the project because of such little things doubt he'll brake it

Btw dan are you after new forks or a fork upgrade as I know them forks off that 2000 plate fit a rg125 gamma as I put them on the rg to park it up when I was rebuilding its forks so if they fit rg's the rg's should fit the rs

And they would be a good upgrade as there duel dampening and there about sahigh out same hight might be a bit shorter than rs forks

12-10-2013, 02:17 PM
True but from how he's gave up doing the project because of such little things doubt he'll brake it

Btw dan are you after new forks or a fork upgrade as I know them forks off that 2000 plate fit a rg125 gamma as I put them on the rg to park it up when I was rebuilding its forks so if they fit rg's the rg's should fit the rs

And they would be a good upgrade as there duel dampening and there about sahigh out same hight might be a bit shorter than rs forks

Just want some new stock forks with no pitting mate

12-11-2013, 01:58 PM
Thought it would be a good idea to smash it all together today and see how it was, the paintwork isn't great, but I've made some bodywork brackets, and it is now more or less complete.

Deciding to sell it as a complete bike, less hassle for me whilst I am going to be busy, may hold on to it until the spring, possibly a better time to sell?


To do....
Front indicators
Front brakelight switch and loom
Bleed front brake
New grips
Maybe add a new RH switchgear
Permanently fit battery

12-11-2013, 03:22 PM
Is the front mud guard missing? Doesnt look like it needs much work...

12-12-2013, 05:10 AM
No, I have that and will fit in the next couple of days. Just need to get the front brake and RH switchgear sorted really, then there's no reason why it cant be used.

If anyone has a RH switchgear going cheap that would be good?

Also, is there a special way of bleeding the front brake on one of these? As a mechanic having bled brakes on all sorts of vehicles for several years, I just can't seem to get the brake working. No lever at all, just comes straight back to the handlebars?
Maybe the master cylinder has died? Is that a common issue?


12-13-2013, 06:32 PM
Ordered some new bits for the project.

New ignition barrell, fuel cap and seat lock (original ones showing signs of damage and only one key).
New RH switchgear and throttle piece.
New grips.

May hold onto the bike a bit longer and get it more or less perfect before either selling it in the spring or riding it myself in the summer. Kinda changed my mind in the last few days as I now have access to my garage again, making it much easier and more comfortable to work on the RS!!

Another update:
Some of the new bits arrived!
Tried to take pictures but uploader is playing up!
New locks and keys all round.
New switchgear.
And brakelight switch ordered from maplin!
http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/eparkes8/Bits.png (http://s510.photobucket.com/user/eparkes8/media/Bits.png.html)

12-15-2013, 05:51 PM
Does the bike run ?

12-15-2013, 07:18 PM
Yeah it does run. Nothing wrong with it in that sense, just bodywork not great and little bits to sort out! My switch for the brake light should be here tomorrow so I can start work on the loom!! Will put the indicators and switchgear on at the same time. Then I may take it to be MOT'd.