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RSV4 Jay
09-07-2011, 03:41 PM
Hi guys,

I'm changing the throttle cables on my RSV4R (2010) as they didn't survive in the high-side, so have aquired a complete twist-grip, housing and cables.

What I'd like to know is how easy is this? As the end of the cables return to the TPS just behind the left hand side of the radiator.

I not going to attempt to un-screw/undo anything without prior knowledge of any potential f*@k ups, hints, tips or some sort of guidance.

Thanks in advance,


Jay.

MishMashRSV4
09-07-2011, 04:15 PM
Hi guys,

I'm changing the throttle cables on my RSV4R (2010) as they didn't survive in the high-side, so have aquired a complete twist-grip, housing and cables.

What I'd like to know is how easy is this? As the end of the cables return to the TPS just behind the left hand side of the radiator.

I not going to attempt to un-screw/undo anything without prior knowledge of any potential f*@k ups, hints, tips or some sort of guidance.

Thanks in advance,


Jay.

Ultimately Jay, the throttle measurement feeds off the "TPS". What you are changing is essentially an "input actuator".

Measure everything out, but its not too much of a rocket science.

You *SHOULD* be able to do it fine on your own...BUT I highly suggest a recalibration with a Navigator after. It needs to know full open and close (range)

xChR1s
10-04-2012, 01:36 PM
As far as replacing the throttle cables goes, what exactly is involved (mechanically) during the swap at the Demand Sensor end of them?

chrisfknpadilla
10-04-2012, 02:43 PM
Is the Navi something that one can purchase. Just asking?

chrisfknpadilla
10-04-2012, 02:43 PM
Whoops wrong thread haha

TOP-APE
10-04-2012, 10:15 PM
As far as replacing the throttle cables goes, what exactly is involved (mechanically) during the swap at the Demand Sensor end of them?

You must take the cables loose from the throttle end to allow slack at the demand sensor end. Then remove the demand sensor to access the cable cover and clamps. The clamps are keyed to keep the cable entry angle in the correct position, so pay attention and don't break it. There is also a rubber seal that fits around the cable entry opening to seal the demand sensor internals from debri. It pulls right off with a loop, but is more involved to get it back on properly. If you have good mechanical dexterity you won't have any problems. If you're kinda hamfisted, you will be sorry you took on the task...

I recommend you run the TWO calibration procedures via the Navigator to ensure proper throttle operation after dicking around with the demand sensor.

mikef4uk
10-05-2012, 04:56 AM
I recommend you run the TWO calibration procedures via the Navigator to ensure proper throttle operation after dicking around with the demand sensor.

Why? he's not changing out the demand sensor only the cables, providing he ends up with a little cable slack so the demand sensor is closed/shut etc nothing on the calibrations will have changed

TOP-APE
10-05-2012, 06:27 AM
Why? he's not changing out the demand sensor only the cables, providing he ends up with a little cable slack so the demand sensor is closed/shut etc nothing on the calibrations will have changed

You're right that the calibration shouldn't change, but the OP is asking how to do the work (no hating!) and must disconnect both connectors and work with the sensor in a "vulnerable" situation to change out the cables. The issue is that the sensor may be damaged in handling. The calibration procedures check the "zero" on the demand sensor output and runs the throttles through a full cycle. It just makes for good maintenance practice to check your work on a critical function like the FBW throttle. This is why I only "recommended" it vs saying that it "must" be done.