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xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 06:39 PM
Hay guys im new to the forums but ive been snooping around for a while looking at other peoples RS50 projects and getting hints & tips on my own ive started it already ive only had my RS50 for about a week now and ive pretty much stripped it all heres what ive done so far:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0080.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0081.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0082.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0083.jpg
Then i started to strip it down:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0093.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0092-1.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0091-1.jpg
This is all the part that first come off mostly panels and fairings:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0086.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0087.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0088.jpg
These are the original panels that came with it they are pretty scratched up so i bought a new pair which arnt as bad as these im in the process of taking all the stickers off:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0079.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0078.jpg
This is the first panel ive started sanding properly for paint:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0084.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0116.jpg
I then started the day after to take the engine out aswell as the subframe:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0109.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0110.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0111.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0112.jpg

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 06:40 PM
This is the engine and exhaust i took off:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0103-2.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0105.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0104-1.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0106.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0107.jpg
This is the parts pile in my room right at this moment, that box is the other set of panels i orderd they are alot better and im in the process of taking all the stickers off:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0119.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0115.jpg

This is only how far ive got up to today on thursday i wanna finish the back fairing sanding and prime it up also i would like to ruff up the engine ready for the black paint.

Things that gonna be done to this bike:
1.Sprayed all black: frame matt black, panels gloss black
2.Engine cleaned out as its been stood standing for a year or so, i have had it started up but i had to use a booster pack from my garage across the road it didnt tic over very well but after ive cleaned it and put the new oil in im hoping it wont take make to make it run smooth again.
3. General clean all around the bike e.g. Rust, grease, oil, old stickers
4. Most bolts replaced with anodised red bolts to give it that edge as the red should stand out on the black quiet nicely.
5. Replace some parts e.g. Battery, Brake & clutch leaver, Air filter as im going pod filter, right brake pedal, gear pedal.


Few things about this bike i already know:
its already had some work done on it previously in my boss's garage across the road i think they did some paint work but not to the exstent i am doing i think they only patched it up, they also bored it out which is ideal as the previous owner only did around 150 miles, when the bike was last brought back to life it was looking and running good its only in the state it is now as the previous owner fell off a few time as he is quite a big lad and was to top heavy for it.


Few questions i have:
I have found some bolts on ebay which are anodised red i was wondering if they would fit my engine and fairings as this would be brillaint and give the bike a really good look.
Engine Bolts will they fit? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270569021841&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
Fairing Bolts will they fit? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270570676701&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
best pod filter i can get for good money? as i hate the standar airbox.
some nice mods i could do.

Thanks for ready ill be updating regularly. CHeers!!!!

jcb121
05-18-2010, 06:46 PM
lookin lush :)

gunna need some work i see

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 06:53 PM
Try to get a Mono tail, since your in the UK you cant take a passenger anyway.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 06:54 PM
yh its gonna need some work but tbh its all cosmetic tbh im only taking the engine out cuz i want them lush bolts and i want it sprayed black lol ow yh and gotta clean the carb but apart from that its stupid little things but ive got 4 months till im 16 so ive got the time tbh and its me and my mate working on it so its going fast paced on the labour work its just the sanding and prep work thats a pain but i will get there.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 06:55 PM
Ive looked at the solo seat but they quite exspensive and tbh i ant got the money im on a low budget its only major things like exhaust im spending money on due to me finding a whole thats gonna be welded over just to pass mot then its gonna be replace when i get the money for a exhaust.

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 06:58 PM
Did you actualy find Monotails for sale than? Do you have a link? i think a lot of people would be really happy if you did mange to find a place that sels these rear end's (same model as i got)

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:03 PM
i found a solo seat on uk ebay for around £50 need a little pain work thats about it ill post the link anyways:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-RS-125-Fibreglass-Solo-Race-Single-Seat-Pod-/110535121849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19bc681bb9 thats the rs 125 solo seat

the rs50 solo seat has been bought and that was the only one there sorry.
btw do u know if my bolts listed in the first post will fit the engine and fairings? and is there anywhere i can get red engine tubes in uk?

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:10 PM
the post with the link is waiting for a mod to acept it atm but while i wait on that can u tell me if the bolts i listed are kk to fit my engine and fairings?

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 07:26 PM
the post with the link is waiting for a mod to acept it atm but while i wait on that can u tell me if the bolts i listed are kk to fit my engine and fairings?


???

You should be able to just post a link on here mate.

Engine bolts are difrent lenghts and diameters, there not one size.

The Fairing bolts are specail bolts, you can replace them with normal ones but i think they looks ugly.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:30 PM
kk then and also whats the best pod i could get for reasonable money? and here is the link This is the only one left as the rs50 one has been sold but this is the rs125 version, the rs50 solo was in much better condition (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-RS-125-Fibreglass-Solo-Race-Single-Seat-Pod-/110535121849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19bc681bb9)

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:33 PM
This is the engine and exhaust i took off:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0103-2.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0105.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0104-1.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0106.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0107.jpg
This is the parts pile in my room right at this moment, that box is the other set of panels i orderd they are alot better and im in the process of taking all the stickers off:
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0119.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0115.jpg

This is only how far ive got up to today on thursday i wanna finish the back fairing sanding and prime it up also i would like to ruff up the engine ready for the black paint.

Things that gonna be done to this bike:
1.Sprayed all black: frame matt black, panels gloss black
2.Engine cleaned out as its been stood standing for a year or so, i have had it started up but i had to use a booster pack from my garage across the road it didnt tic over very well but after ive cleaned it and put the new oil in im hoping it wont take make to make it run smooth again.
3. General clean all around the bike e.g. Rust, grease, oil, old stickers
4. Most bolts replaced with anodised red bolts to give it that edge as the red should stand out on the black quiet nicely.
5. Replace some parts e.g. Battery, Brake & clutch leaver, Air filter as im going pod filter, right brake pedal, gear pedal.


Few things about this bike i already know:
its already had some work done on it previously in my boss's garage across the road i think they did some paint work but not to the exstent i am doing i think they only patched it up, they also bored it out which is ideal as the previous owner only did around 150 miles, when the bike was last brought back to life it was looking and running good its only in the state it is now as the previous owner fell off a few time as he is quite a big lad and was to top heavy for it.


Few questions i have:
I have found some bolts on ebay which are anodised red i was wondering if they would fit my engine and fairings as this would be brillaint and give the bike a really good look.
Engine Bolts will they fit? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270569021841&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
Fairing Bolts will they fit? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270570676701&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
best pod filter i can get for good money? as i hate the standar airbox.
some nice mods i could do.

Thanks for ready ill be updating regularly. CHeers!!!!

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 07:37 PM
kk then and also whats the best pod i could get for reasonable money? and here is the link This is the only one left as the rs50 one has been sold but this is the rs125 version, the rs50 solo was in much better condition (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-RS-125-Fibreglass-Solo-Race-Single-Seat-Pod-/110535121849?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19bc681bb9)

RS125 ones with Y-pannels atached doesnt fit the RS50, only the version with out does.


Podfilters are something you want to avoid for roaduse, You got the Stock Airbox wich is really best, more than enough for >70cc and a 21mm Carb.


The Fairingbolds will fit fine, the Engine bolts wont as there a mix of M5 and M6 in difrent lengts AND poor qualety alloy ones like these seem to be cant bare the load/torque needed to tighten the parts.

The Engine bolds are best left alone or replaced by steal ones, the engine sits behind the fairings anyway so what do you care what collor they are?

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:40 PM
see i just hate the standard airbox really ugly and horrid, my boss was saying they get dam and can affect performance alot so i mite just look for a enclosed pod filter tbh see what i can get, also the link to the Bolts are in the new update please take a look and tell me if they could fit cuz im not sure tbh :s . and sorry thats the only seat they had left there was one there but not anymore sorry if i find one on there ill give u a pm cuz im on the all the time look for parts and such. :)

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 07:48 PM
yh i mean id love to have all matching bolts even on the engine even if u dont see them so ill just keep looking atm i suppose for some steal ones that are red lol thanks for that advice, also i wanna replace the tubes on the engine with red tubes i seen a nice pic of a engine on here with orange bolts and orange tubes i want my engine like that tbh it looks smart and ive got the time.

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 07:54 PM
Stock Airbox doesnt affect the performance at all for the RS50, a Podfilter is more likly to decrease performances with a Stock Cilinder as it cant get the large amound of Air/Mixture trough its ports fast enough.
The Podfildter will also suck up water and anything desolved from it from the Road like Salt, and wen the Podfilter sucks the moisture trough it it will also suck trough any fine dust particles that where cought in there.
On top of that if the weather changes it will have a much bigger effect on your mixture.
There ment for racing where they get used on clean racetracks that are usualy dry, and they get washed and re-oiled after each race.

Anyway i still got my Stock Airbox and i got a 24mm Mikuni TM Carb on my bike, it reached speeds of more than 85mph with blistering acceleration, so no idea why you think its bad...

I edited my previos post for the bolts...

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 08:00 PM
kk then ill keep the standard box because i do want the performance tbh more than anything, is there anywhere i can get them tubes and btw what does m6 and m5 mean on bolts?

RS_Patrick
05-18-2010, 08:07 PM
M means Metric size threading, 5 is the diameter than in Millimeter, so M5 is 5mm diameter.

And what Tubes? if you got a question make it a bit more clear what your talking about mate.

Anyway way passed my bedtime for me.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-18-2010, 08:10 PM
tubes off the engine like oil tube ect ect ive seen bright orange tubes on another engine wondering where u get them? and same mate speak tomoz k :) thanks

jcb121
05-18-2010, 11:29 PM
you will have to find the ID (inner diameter) of the pipes. the OD (outer diameter) shouldn't matter that much, though it may for the oil pump pipe.

im guessing Ebay it, or (BIG Or) you could try PC Water cooling specialist. may be a few quid more expensive and may not go all the way up to the size you want but may do a few of your pipes in the colours you want. http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Hose-Tubing_38.html

RS_Patrick
05-19-2010, 10:18 AM
Just try a Local bikeshop mate, than your sure you get the right tubes.

p.s. tubes for watercooling might not be oil and feul resistand...

Once again, like the Engine Bolts, the Oil and Feultubes etc are all covered up by the Fairings so i wouldnt care what collor they are, just ger regular ones, preferably reinforced, they will probably be cheaper than the collor ones and much better quality.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-19-2010, 06:12 PM
well ive got time still ill have a little think tbh, still reckon they would look so sweet even if hidden tbh Hmmm....

RS_Patrick
05-19-2010, 06:55 PM
Since you said you dont have to much money i wait with things like that since you cant see it anyway, and use the money for something else more needed.

And like i said the cheap ones are made of an alloy thats to soft to really tighten them up enough for things like the Manifold and Clutchcover.
Good ones are made of Ergal Alloys (Aerospace/Gunbarrels etc.)

And if you do fit collored bolts and tubes, it looks much much cooler if the Engine is Polished or Sprayed.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-20-2010, 03:00 AM
yh i am spraying the engine black thats why i want the red bolts and tubes :)

RS_Patrick
05-20-2010, 05:15 AM
yh i am spraying the engine black thats why i want the red bolts and tubes :)

You need specail paint to spray the engine, and you really need to use a good degreaser, its best to degrease the engine twice as the first time its verry likly that some residue remained.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-20-2010, 04:36 PM
i sprayed the sub frame tonight just to stop the rust, and also primed up the back faring that u saw in the other pics. you can still see slight scratches so im gonna go over with some wet 600 sand paper to smooth it out then give it 2 more coats. any tips on the priming to get it nice and smooth ready for the black gloss ?

RS_Patrick
05-20-2010, 06:26 PM
Its a Subframe... dude i just took a grinder on mine and Grinded parts i didnt need anymore with the Monotail right off, took the sharp bits off, and cleaned it with terpentine and sprayed it rally black.

If you really want to get scratches out that are in there you should have used a filling primer, than 3v layers of black, and 2 layers of clear coat. (always use matching primer, paint and clearcoat to avoid chemical reactions between the layers)

For the engine you need Heat Resistand Paint and Clearcoat if you want it to be really glossy. i know there is a specail filler for engines also but cant recall the name...

Dom.C
05-20-2010, 07:47 PM
Thanks can see a lot more now :)

RS_Patrick
05-21-2010, 09:26 AM
Thanks can see a lot more now :)

żżż :confused:

xXxKillDogxXx
05-21-2010, 07:40 PM
he said that cuz i shrunk the pics down, also the engine is not gonna be painted anymore just to much hassel tbh and like u said its not gonna be in sight behind the fairing so its all good i washed it and degreased it down today it come up quite nice lol.
and also ive primed the back fairing just going over it with 600 dry to get all the little bumps out of it then ill put another coat or 2 over it then start spraying the black gloss then go over with the top laquer for the really good shine then ill use 1200 wet then buff

xXxKillDogxXx
05-24-2010, 07:30 PM
List of things to do, to get the bike running
Engine bracket removed, cleaned and sprayed
Swing arm cleaned and sprayed
Frame cleaned & sprayed
New spark plug fitted
Engine fitted
Clutch/brake lever fitted
Dials fitted
Oil tank fitted
Air box fitted
Battery fitted
Each panel fitted after they are resprayed (rattle can jo

thats it tbh, shouldnt take long i dont think even tho ive got 3 months and 18 days to do it still but owell ill just have to stair at it untill i get my cbt done lol gonna be anoying but owell ill keep u guys updated with pics, ive got the sub frame refitted after i sprayed it with some hammerite to keep the rust away as it was rusting in some parts so i put the wire brush over it and give it a little sand then sprayed it with that pretty nice looking tbh shame u wont be able to see it lol. gonna be spraying the frame matt black as well as the swing arm but the engine bracket gonna be sprayed with hammerite because its a lil bit rusty. :peace:

RS_Patrick
05-25-2010, 09:51 AM
Powder Coating the Frame and Rear fork is a much better idea, especaily the Frame should be powdercoated as its Aluminium and wen you sand it for painting you take the layer thats on there off and it instandly oxidizes, wen you paint it it will cause the paint to slowly flake off after a while because it has no grip on the aluminium oxide (hamerite wont help there).
Think thats something you really need to consider to have done if you want the bike to look good.

Dom.C
05-25-2010, 10:19 AM
Yup get the frame powder coated, get a different color than black if you want to be different. It's a project after all.

Just an example of how it can come out if you use a decent company.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s166/domcole_uk/17246_250609470215_601575215_382774.jpg

Tom-Hutch
05-25-2010, 11:08 AM
yep if ya spendin the money you may aswell get it done an individual colour. If you have a steady hand and lots of time you could sand it down yourself put loads of primer on, loads of coats of black (would show marks more with spray cans if another colour) and then a couple of coats of lacquer to stop scratches. Thats the cheap option

MrBatty1
05-25-2010, 02:16 PM
i did my Dna 50 can with Hardcore cans it came out very well after just 3 coats and because its the hardcore paint stuff it really shouldnt come off or have scratches :)



Oh god How i miss MY DNA 50 :(:(

xXxKillDogxXx
05-25-2010, 04:08 PM
i dont have the money to power coat, and its going to be a stealth bike all black the only colour on the bike will be the red bolts on the fairing but thats it. when my bosses mate had it before they sprayed it with cans and ive seen the pics it came out really really good so im not worried tbh. i wasnt going to hammerite the frame im hammeriting the engine support mount thats it the frame is going to be ruffed up with 800 wet and then sprayed matt black. How much would powder coating be for the swing arm and frame?

Dom.C
05-25-2010, 04:30 PM
i dont have the money to power coat, and its going to be a stealth bike all black the only colour on the bike will be the red bolts on the fairing but thats it. when my bosses mate had it before they sprayed it with cans and ive seen the pics it came out really really good so im not worried tbh. i wasnt going to hammerite the frame im hammeriting the engine support mount thats it the frame is going to be ruffed up with 800 wet and then sprayed matt black. How much would powder coating be for the swing arm and frame?

It's hard to say to be honest, best bet is to take a frame or a picture of one with dimensions to a sprayers.

I'm getting a few bits chrome dipped and nobody was able to give me a price without seeing the parts. I'm guessing the same will apply for powder coating.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-25-2010, 05:31 PM
well will it be hundreds or we talking? 20 30 each? cuz i ant got alot of money atm, untill the summer when i start work back in the garage. i mean i got my rs50 for £300 and it runs i dont wanna spend shizz loads on it cuz im only gonna have it for a year.

RS_Patrick
05-25-2010, 08:03 PM
Its Aluminium, not Steel, if you want it to look good and keep it looking good get it Powdercoated, doesnt cost a fortune, think you be suprised.

It simple to take the Frame apart, you just need to hand them the 2 Framehalfs, and turn some old bolts into the Threaded holes of the Frame so the Thread doesnt get powdercoated also :p:

If theres preperation work you can do for them that will make things even cheaper naturaly.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-25-2010, 08:26 PM
kk well ive text a local guy who does resprays for bikes gonna see what he comes back with and ill go from there :D and yh lol wouldnt wanna powder coat the thread lol imagine it coming back from the shop and then relizing u cant put the bleady thing back together cuz the thread is gone :O lol

RS_Patrick
05-26-2010, 02:33 AM
Seen it happen, get the frame back from the paintshop and they didnt mask the threaded holes for the CDI etc, even seen worse where they didnt mask off anything...

xXxKillDogxXx
05-26-2010, 12:17 PM
Im not getting it powder coated im just gonna use some 800 on the frame then go over with etching primer then matt black same for the swing arm

xXxKillDogxXx
05-26-2010, 05:41 PM
i painted part of the engine black today come up nice also im gonna polish it up aswell i know its not gonna be seen just be nice tbh.. also im gonna take the bracket out tomoz and hammerite it then bolt the engine in it then when i go to fit the engine back in the bracket and engine will go in as one making it alot easier.. any ideas on some mods i can do while the bike is stripped?

mcglynn
05-26-2010, 06:07 PM
take the head off the engine, and make sure the ports have no cast marks. Go at them with a dremel softly, smooth them out and make them shiny. Knife edge any port dividers, if your exhaust port has one :)

Dom.C
05-26-2010, 06:34 PM
take the head off the engine, and make sure the ports have no cast marks. Go at them with a dremel softly, smooth them out and make them shiny. Knife edge any port dividers, if your exhaust port has one :)

Dremel + ports is a no no. I wouldn't advise knife edging anything either.

mcglynn
05-26-2010, 07:18 PM
Dremel + ports is a no no. I wouldn't advise knife edging anything either.

sorry, why is a dremel and ports a 'no no'? and why not knife edge anything....?

xXxKillDogxXx
05-26-2010, 10:16 PM
my engine is kk anyways my boss looked it over so dnt worrie guys its not gonna fuck up on me but it did come out nice after paint

RS_Patrick
05-27-2010, 02:45 PM
sorry, why is a dremel and ports a 'no no'? and why not knife edge anything....?

diont know why he said that but i can think of a few reasons

A: if you change the ports on the crankcase to fit the ones of the cilinder exactly and you ever change the cilinder to a difrent model the ports might not be able to match up.

B: more expensive cilinders are already pretty optimized and knife edging the ports on theose will interfere with the way feul flows trough in a negative way.

I do recomend to making the ports on the crankcase so they exactly match the cilinbder if you got an expensive kit on there as its well worth it, but keep in mind that making the ports bigger is easy, making them smaller is the reall isue if you ever change kit.

xXxKillDogxXx
05-31-2010, 12:53 PM
Bike project stopped atm, got a ear infection, on anti-biotics atm so hopefully ill be kk soon and i can start work on the bike again soon.

RS_Patrick
05-31-2010, 01:20 PM
Eh? you work with your ears? :p:

xXxKillDogxXx
05-31-2010, 02:33 PM
you ever had a ear infection? Constantly feeling sick, drowsieness, loss of balance, constant pain?

RS_Patrick
05-31-2010, 03:36 PM
you ever had a ear infection? Constantly feeling sick, drowsieness, loss of balance, constant pain?

LOL, yeah i had it a lot wen i was younger, i was just joking mate :p:

xXxKillDogxXx
06-13-2010, 08:39 AM
hay guys im back from being ill for a while and ive done some work to the bike, ive fitted the engine back in with the resprayed Engine brace and also clean the jets and carb ect ect, i then sprayed the dial braced as it was rusty and not look so good but now it looks pretty spankin lol fitted the dials and wired them up also, ive just got one little problem now and thats wiring is there anyone who could show me a pic of there wiring on there bike so i can compare as i just get confused with the diagrams tbh and also where do i route them properly this would be a massive help if anyone could provide this information.

Just for a little note i have googled but came up with nothing.

RS_Patrick
06-13-2010, 03:00 PM
Bit hard to take pictures of all the wirng on the RS50 i think...

Why dont you tell us what problem you have with the Wiring? im sure we can work it out together here.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-13-2010, 05:48 PM
Wondering where the blue and green earth wires attach to and also theres another short wire coming off the wiring that i think attached to the fuel tank but im not sure?

Dom.C
06-13-2010, 06:30 PM
sorry, why is a dremel and ports a 'no no'? and why not knife edge anything....?

Because the 'Since using a dremel on my ports my bike hasn't been running right, someone told me I've ported it. What do I do?' thread will be inevitable lol.

RS_Patrick
06-14-2010, 08:41 AM
Wondering where the blue and green earth wires attach to and also theres another short wire coming off the wiring that i think attached to the fuel tank but im not sure?

Wich Blue and Grean wires from where mate? Where are they? any idea how much Green and Blue wires there are on this bike?

Put up a picture of what you mean and be more clear, or try to figure it out from the Wire diagrams.

Html33
06-14-2010, 09:18 AM
Wondering where the blue and green earth wires attach to and also theres another short wire coming off the wiring that i think attached to the fuel tank but im not sure?

Do they have little o-ring attachments? Like a spade connector but with a hole? In that case i think you'll find they are earths, and they need to be bolted to the frame some where.

I think theres about three. And i recall mine being green and blue.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-14-2010, 11:13 AM
yh there is a Green, blue and black one i know where the black one goes i remember that but i really dont remember where the Green and blue one goes i know the blue wire is the earth for the battery i think

mcglynn
06-14-2010, 11:43 AM
Because the 'Since using a dremel on my ports my bike hasn't been running right, someone told me I've ported it. What do I do?' thread will be inevitable lol.

yeh thats true i suppose.

i have an idea about the ports though, i know i can change the surface (i've had a go at my exhaust port) but not the shape basically as it will change timing.

I have had the air grinder at my exhaust port, polishing it (its the only one i would polish) and used emery to smoothen any marks out of it.

I can't really tell, but from what i done the last time (i polished cast errors out of the exhaust port, knife edged it, and modified the base gasket and lifted the needle a notch) my bike is a lot more crisp.

and like you say, if you have no idea, don't go near them.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-15-2010, 04:44 PM
any news on where these wires may go then? i know the black on earths just under the sprocket cover but im not sure about the Green and blue earth with the circle in the middle

Aprilia af1
06-15-2010, 04:55 PM
any news on where these wires may go then? i know the black on earths just under the sprocket cover but im not sure about the Green and blue earth with the circle in the middle

On my af1 50 i have two wires with the circle in the middle, not too sure on the colours but they go on the cdi bolts.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-16-2010, 07:13 AM
ahh kk thanks for that ill look on the bike later today see if it fits nicely :D

RS_Patrick
06-16-2010, 05:17 PM
yh there is a Green, blue and black one i know where the black one goes i remember that but i really dont remember where the Green and blue one goes i know the blue wire is the earth for the battery i think


If they got rings on there they go onto the Manifold for Grounding.

From the Tech Tips section:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/techtips/rs50/rs75/airbox2.jpg

See the 3 wires on the Manifold?

xXxKillDogxXx
06-17-2010, 01:14 AM
Ahh Brillaint cheers mate ill attach them tonight thanks!!! :D Also yesterday i was working on the bike fro 3PM till 10PM lol but i took the old pads out and well they may as well not have been a pad they just deteriated in my hand lol but im gonna buy new front and back, but while im waiting im freeing up the calipers done the front already and painted gonna do the rear tonight and also ill get more pics aswell.

I was going over my engine last night and i noticed the throttle cable was really stiff and also frayed at the top so i thought screw that, so i took it off and im replacing that aswell, theres not alot of work to do now engine and all that so ill also start doing panels soons. FUN! Not lol

mcglynn
06-17-2010, 10:06 AM
replace any cables that are even slightly frayed.

trust me, had TWO cables snap on me at different times.

oil pump cable = damaged bore & piston, not beyond redeemable luckily enough.

clutch cable = riding home clutchless for 8 miles on TOWN roads with a lot of turn offs aka traffic lights everywhere. That was a nightmare.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-17-2010, 04:33 PM
Rite all the pipes and earths and cables are cable tied and attached properly now, new battery fitted and charged, New oil has been pour in all that needed to do now is stuff like pads, swing arm, gear box oil, new grips, bar ends, throttle cable/oil pump cable, speedo cable, clutch and brake leaver cable and also im replacing the Right and left rear sets as they are the orignal and there pretty well screwed over lol, also me and my boss noticed that the swing arm has some play so he thinks the bushes are gone so we gonna replace them aswell as the bearings when i take the swing arm off for spray paint

RS_Patrick
06-17-2010, 07:05 PM
its really worth powdercoating it mate, the paint on the rear fork gets hit by little stones etc picked up from the road all the time.

xXxKillDogxXx
06-18-2010, 02:00 AM
im not powder coating it im spraying it with hammerite wich will stop the rust and also protect it from the stone its really good stuff

xXxKillDogxXx
06-19-2010, 07:48 AM
Im taking the swing arm off soon so i can prep it and change the bushes, and ill change the bearings at the same time aswell. Also anyone know where i can find left and right rearsets cheap i cant find any!

mcglynn
06-19-2010, 08:57 AM
any pictures mate this project thread is shite now lol

xXxKillDogxXx
06-19-2010, 10:05 AM
yh mate ill take some in a sec ive got it all in now so ill take some of it today and post them up today some time kk bey

xXxKillDogxXx
06-19-2010, 10:31 PM
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0244.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0243.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0242.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0241.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0240.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0239.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0238.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0237.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0236.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/RS50/PICT0235.jpg

Just thought id keep u up to date...

xXxKillDogxXx
07-10-2010, 08:44 AM
Rite so ive got the bike running, its ticking over but i havnt got the oil pump connected since theres no point without the magic adjuster that i acidentally threw away because i thought i would get a new one with my new throttle cable but no :( lol stupid me wondering where i can get a new one? any ideas. and also my throttle wont pull back well tbh my throttle does fuck all haaa i pull it rite to the top and it stays there and then i start the bike since thats the only time it will start and it just sounds like its ticking over ( Very rich mind) and another thing when i started the bike today and had it ticking over there was petrol or some kinda of liquid running down the exhaust port down the exhaust what does that mean guys im worried my bikes fucked now lol. HELP!!!

Dom.C
07-10-2010, 10:04 AM
Rite so ive got the bike running, its ticking over but i havnt got the oil pump connected since theres no point without the magic adjuster that i acidentally threw away because i thought i would get a new one with my new throttle cable but no :( lol stupid me wondering where i can get a new one? any ideas. and also my throttle wont pull back well tbh my throttle does fuck all haaa i pull it rite to the top and it stays there and then i start the bike since thats the only time it will start and it just sounds like its ticking over ( Very rich mind) and another thing when i started the bike today and had it ticking over there was petrol or some kinda of liquid running down the exhaust port down the exhaust what does that mean guys im worried my bikes fucked now lol. HELP!!!

You're running it without an oil pump? So no oil is going through? Lol.

Someone had the same problem, the thread isn't old so have a look in the technical section.

mcglynn
07-10-2010, 10:39 AM
my bike ran like shit when the oil pump cable snapped, it wud still run and start off the electric start but it ran shit :( (found this out at the side of the road after it happened lol)

so yeah, dont run it without oil pump, run the risk of siezing it.

get the adjuster, its cheap off speedaway.co.uk and then sort if out.

xXxKillDogxXx
07-10-2010, 10:42 AM
ahh kk cheers bud any idea about my other problems?

xXxKillDogxXx
07-10-2010, 10:45 AM
The only adjuster they have is a rubber one and that looks alot like the one i already have and it does nothing its just like a seal

xXxKillDogxXx
07-11-2010, 10:12 AM
Anybody got any ideas?

RS_Patrick
07-12-2010, 05:54 PM
rubber should fit over the adjuster, oilpump lever should fully open against the stopper wen you have full throttle with out pulling tension on the oilpump cable, so it should basicly just kiss the stopper.

Oilpump gives off enough oil up to 1 litre of feul for every 20 kilometer, if your bike consumes more than that i would start to think seriously about adding premix.

xXxKillDogxXx
07-13-2010, 02:14 AM
"The rubber fits over the adjuster" I just said i dont have a adjuster lol where can i get one ?

RS_Patrick
07-22-2010, 05:37 AM
take a picture of as its fited now.

xXxKillDogxXx
07-25-2010, 07:39 AM
i know where u get the 2 adjusters from, when i bought my "Pattern Throttle cable" i thought they would come with it it noope. they only come with the genuine cables which cost me £40 lol

xXxKillDogxXx
07-25-2010, 07:39 AM
also ive gotta check the needle below the float bowl because its spitting out fuel on the exhaust port

xXxKillDogxXx
08-05-2010, 10:45 AM
Rite kk ive got my Oil pump and carb adjusters now but can someone tell me how to adjust and set them up properly so the bike will run nicely :D

mcglynn
08-05-2010, 06:21 PM
just adjust them so the oil pump is nearly fully open at full throttle, or fully open at full throttle if you like.

and dont run the bike without an exhaust, it needs the back pressure.

xXxKillDogxXx
08-06-2010, 07:38 PM
Ok ive adjusted that and it sounds really nice considering before i bought it the last owner had just put a new piston and head on before it got stood still for a year and my boss was the one who fitted it aswell, work left to do is:

Remove the swing are get it on the wire wheel to get all the old paint off then spray it also while ive got it off im gonna replace the rear wheel bearings.

Then its fork seals and front bearings

fit the new pads bleed the brakes and then all i gotta do is spray the panels :D

Btw just like to say ty for all the advice u have given me so far if u like i can post more pics ?

Ps i sprayed the exhaust black with temp paint as it was nasty looking still wondering weather to get a new one since my one is pretty shabby..

another thing im missing 2 little panels for the inner front fairing one holds the overflow/water on the left side and then theres a matching one of the left its located on the inner front fairing what is this called or where could i get this part?

xXxKillDogxXx
08-06-2010, 08:05 PM
My Rev counter ant working im tighten it right up but it either dont work or it kinda works i guess it just flucuates up to 1k and back down again really jumpy like ? New cable? i did replace the speedo cable already cuz that well had a hole in it lol

RS_Patrick
08-07-2010, 08:33 AM
Take the cable off and check it to make sure, make sure its well lubed and doesnt get pulled tight or pushed in a sharp bend.

Make sure thares no bit of old cable stuck in the dash and engine part where the cable fits in.

Fit it to the Revcounter and turn it with a dril, first slowly to check wich way you need to turn.

If that works fit it back on the engine and see if it works now, if not you have to remove the clutchcover and see if the gears that drive the rev counter are damadged.

xXxKillDogxXx
08-17-2010, 01:25 PM
ok ill be checking that tommorow then btw ive sprayed the front fairing and OMG it come out brillaint for a can jobby lol i couldnt believe it tbh

xXxKillDogxXx
09-07-2010, 04:49 PM
quick update, b-day on the 13th and im still waiting for my birth certificate so i can send off for my licence then i can finally do my CBT :D update on the bike, if i may say so my self its going really well, fitted new chain and sprockets only got to spray the tank and one fairing now swing arm was quickly sprayed to stop rust ect subframe was sprayed with to protect and so was the cradle for the engine i sorted a bit of rust on the lower half of the shock where the allen bolt goes thro it and then added some rust shizz and then painted it dials are all working correctly, all that really needs to be done now is ....... wait for it


Fork seals and new fork oil :l fun fun fun :L
New rear caliper and pads fitted + rear brake bleed ect ect
Front pads fitted plus bleed
Order anodised bolts for fairing
then finally MOT :D


in the future ill be adding stupid things like a small light under fairing thinking about speakers since electricals is stupidly easy and i work with them daily
ect ect u get the idea

Thanatos
09-07-2010, 04:53 PM
sounds good, do you got any pictures?

Owen.G
09-07-2010, 05:07 PM
get the pics up lad. :D

xXxKillDogxXx
09-08-2010, 01:07 AM
Kk ill get some more today start the forks after school today

xXxKillDogxXx
09-08-2010, 05:21 PM
Been looking at boost bottles, is it worth it? and how would i fit it, i dont think i have to drill a whole for the rs50 do ya ?

Aprilia af1
09-08-2010, 05:40 PM
Been looking at boost bottles, is it worth it? and how would i fit it, i dont think i have to drill a whole for the rs50 do ya ?


I've heard boost bottles aren't worth getting, allthough they're supposed to collect excess fuel/ fumes and reburn it.

Usually you have to drill a hole in the inlet manifold and tap a thread into it in order to fit a brass nipple which you can then fit the plastic pipe onto it which connects the boost bottle to the manifold. Allthough you can buy manifolds which have the 2 stroke oil connection (brass nipple) on already so will save you drilling a hole etc.

In the very best conditions i think you could get around 1 hp so not really worth the money, but 1 hp is a gain and could make a slight difference.

Dom.C
09-08-2010, 06:00 PM
Been looking at boost bottles, is it worth it? and how would i fit it, i dont think i have to drill a whole for the rs50 do ya ?

Why don't you use the search, it's been discussed many times before.


I've heard boost bottles aren't worth getting, allthough they're supposed to collect excess fuel/ fumes and reburn it.

Usually you have to drill a hole in the inlet manifold and tap a thread into it in order to fit a brass nipple which you can then fit the plastic pipe onto it which connects the boost bottle to the manifold. Allthough you can buy manifolds which have the 2 stroke oil connection (brass nipple) on already so will save you drilling a hole etc.

In the very best conditions i think you could get around 1 hp so not really worth the money, but 1 hp is a gain and could make a slight difference.

Not even 1bhp, don't bother. You can get around the manifold issue by fitting a t-tube instead.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-08-2010, 07:07 PM
ahh kk so not really worth the time and money i suppose, and i did search btw dom only found the thread "Boost Bottle's"

Aprilia af1
09-09-2010, 10:47 AM
Not even 1bhp, don't bother. You can get around the manifold issue by fitting a t-tube instead.

Where would the t-tube go? Because i've only seen them fitted to the manifold providing your carb has an oil feed on the side and doesn't need the oil feed in the manifold.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-10-2010, 10:52 AM
Sorry i havnt uploaded bleady pics yett guys taking the bike for a little test tonight hehe only in the lane behind my house haa but ill take pics of the parts ive sprayed and the bike as it is now :D

RS_Patrick
09-10-2010, 05:12 PM
Boost Bottles are only worth something if you race where even a fraction of a second counts.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-12-2010, 08:38 AM
ahh kk well ill forget about them then well i got my helmet yesterday before my b-day party got a Nitro Helmet for like £80 really smart all black with the nitro signs here and there

Ryan.s
09-12-2010, 01:02 PM
Looking forward to seeing the pics matey ! :]

xXxKillDogxXx
09-12-2010, 01:22 PM
ordered my rear caliper its on bid atm for £25 incuding P&P hopefully i win lol if not try try again haa its my b-day tomorow and i dunno if im taking the forks out tomorow or not since i had my party yesterday so we will just have to see what happens i suppose. :D

Dom.C
09-12-2010, 08:30 PM
Where would the t-tube go? Because i've only seen them fitted to the manifold providing your carb has an oil feed on the side and doesn't need the oil feed in the manifold.

I've only seen them on bikes I'm involved with mate so I'll have to get pictures, I can't remember off the top of my head. I'll have a search then upload a few :)

xXxKillDogxXx
09-13-2010, 10:48 AM
Dom if u could do that, it would be brilliant cause there ant alot of pics showing how they are set up if u know what i mean :s btw birth certif thro today so sending off for provisional tomorow then just gotta wait, btw when u do ur cbt do they ask you what bike ur going to drive or does it matter cause i just wann get my cbt over and done with tbh and im thinking it will be alot easier doing it on one of there scooters instead of having to do clutch control and that shit which i already know its just i dont like being sorta tested get nerves bad haa :L

xXxKillDogxXx
09-26-2010, 07:03 AM
not alot of work to do now i did do the forks but i made the stupid mistake of no using genuin seals so ive orderd some genuin just to double check guys does 285ml of 10w fork oil sound ok per leg?

Dom.C
09-26-2010, 11:28 AM
Dom if u could do that, it would be brilliant cause there ant alot of pics showing how they are set up if u know what i mean :s btw birth certif thro today so sending off for provisional tomorow then just gotta wait, btw when u do ur cbt do they ask you what bike ur going to drive or does it matter cause i just wann get my cbt over and done with tbh and im thinking it will be alot easier doing it on one of there scooters instead of having to do clutch control and that shit which i already know its just i dont like being sorta tested get nerves bad haa :L

I'll have a browse today mate.

RS_Patrick
09-26-2010, 04:47 PM
I put 20w in there mate, nice and stiff, 285cc per leg.

If i where you i put 15w or 20w in, but it depents a bit how heavy you are and how/where you drive.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-26-2010, 07:17 PM
im like 8 stone lol so will 10w be on at 285ml per leg?

RS_Patrick
09-27-2010, 06:58 AM
I dont know what a Stone is in Weight so that tells me nothing at all.

Edit: i looked it up: 8 Stone = 112 pounds = 50 kilogram... Are you sure you got the 8 stone right? seems extremly light to me for a 16/17 year old...

Dom.C
09-27-2010, 07:56 AM
Blame it on genetics ey KillDog lol.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-27-2010, 03:54 PM
i am a skinny runt with a 6 pac and average sized arms i ant no lanky fucker either lol im like 5ft 7 so yh im around 8 stone maybe a half.


Btw Fitted rear caliper, rear mud and sorted my bleady throttle cable out it was too slack but it wouldnt adjust anymore so i routed it better this time :D then i kinda tested it with no breaks but its all im still alive gonna sort the kick stand tomoz and bleed the rear brakes also hopefully my genuin fork seals get here so i can do my forks also since the right one is leaking :l
Lol fun fun fun !

RS_Patrick
09-27-2010, 04:05 PM
if the throttle cable is slack than rerouting it isnt gonna help mate, thre cable being slack comes from the iner cable being to long compaired to the outer cable.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-27-2010, 04:18 PM
nah it was the way it was routed and not adjusted properly its really nice now not sticky at all on the throttle and revs with just atouch

xXxKillDogxXx
09-27-2010, 04:21 PM
btw how does the rs50 choke work cause i click it down and then it wont go off even if i pull the throttle right back :s little bit confused

Dom.C
09-28-2010, 06:52 PM
Ok sorry for the poor quality picture, I'll try and find another. From what I can tell there is a t-tube allowing for the boost bottle to be connected to the vacuum. Remember this isn't on a RS but I hope you get the jist.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s166/domcole_uk/boostbottle1.jpg

RS_Patrick
09-29-2010, 03:41 AM
What carb you got?

The SHA types with the long lever on them should jump back wen you twist the throttle, if not its easy to fix because the choke is mounted externaly infront of the carb intake, easy to remove and clean/oil, if you need to bend it a little be carefull not to bend it to much.

If its an PHB or Mikuni type and it has the little black knob for the choke that you need to pull up, you need to turn it lightly for the choke to release.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-29-2010, 09:54 AM
ok im gonna try and bend the lever a bit then see if it helps but the throttle needs to go back all the way before it even starts pulling the lever :s

RS_Patrick
09-29-2010, 04:30 PM
ok im gonna try and bend the lever a bit then see if it helps but the throttle needs to go back all the way before it even starts pulling the lever :s

You need to take tha carb off, leave the throttle cable atached and see what it does, if its a SHA carb you need to look at how its working, just bending it with out looking might make thing much worse.

RS_Patrick
09-29-2010, 04:35 PM
p.s. you can not hook a boost bottle up with a T tube to the vacume, the boost bottle would prevent the vacume from being created so the vacume controled feultap or feulpump wouldnt work anymore.

Think the guy in the picture just fited somekind of adaptor from 4mm iner tube to 6mm inertube diameter or something like that.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-29-2010, 04:51 PM
Choke still wont work?????? when i pull the throttle right back it pulls the level a bit but not enuf :S plus i have to pull it right back which means im gonna rev the bike when its in neutral it could possible fuck the engine any ideas how to make the choke turn off? i hating this automatic choke tbh it wont start on electric star with choke off but i can bump it and it will start the electric start works just wont make the bike tic over?

RS_Patrick
09-30-2010, 05:26 AM
What Carb you got? Picture of your Carb?

Did you do what i said? if its a Dellorto SHA and you take the Airfilter of the Carb you see a paddle shaped construction with a little hole in the middle that moves over the Carb Intake, its Screwed on together with a Spring to the Right of that, Undo the Screw and Remove everything, there should be a little Slot just next to the Carb intake with a little metal Pin in it that Moves wen you open the Throttle, thats the bit that makes the Choke Release.
The Above only Aplies for SHA carbs.

PHB Carbs got a difrent type of choke that can be just a black knob that you pull out and turn to make the choke come off, or a lever you move up and down, or a cable choke with a lever on the handle bar, but all them have to be turned off manualy.

Since im not sure wich carb you got i cant say for sure.

xXxKillDogxXx
09-30-2010, 09:30 AM
yh mines a sha carb

Dom.C
10-05-2010, 01:04 PM
Another picture of how a boost bottle is connected mate. You've got vacume, t-tube, boost bottle then I don't know where it leads from there but you get the idea.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s166/domcole_uk/BOOSTBOTTLE2.jpg

xXxKillDogxXx
10-05-2010, 04:22 PM
Guys big update, frame i have sprayed come out really nice i know it was not gonna be perfect but tbh if u look at the pics before u could tell why i did it also ive sprayed the right rear set gonna spray the other tomorrow hopefully if i got time. I took the forks to CMS in plymouth where i live yesterday so they could fit my new seals and fill with new oil they did a brilliant job the bike is a total different ride and because the front forks are fitted properly i fitted the front nose cone only just tho since the lad who had it before me fell off the bike and the bars behind the cone bent i tryed to bend them back but they just dont wanna move so im gonna replace in time but its not a major issue right now.

all thats left to do is...

Front pads and bleed front break
Bleed rear break and also figure out why the rear break light wont turn on when rear break is pressed but the front break lever will turn the light on :S any help please???/

Spray the tank and fit
Spray right fairing and fit and fit left fairing
also ive gotta jack the frame joint as it seems to be outa line as i cant put my rear set bolt in as the bracket for the engine/frame seems to have dropped :s need some help on this its the bottom rearset bolt

when this is done which should be in the next few days it wil be MOT And CBT time Woop Woop

and obviously Insurance and Tax

my mate has bought a MX 50 with a 65 bottom end fitted tbh my step brothers DNA 50 SP goes faster pretty funny but tbh the MX runs like shit

another mate has bought a old 1980 DT50 with the drum breaks and everything lol gonna look klass haaa another friend bought a 2nd hand Derbi GPR from CMS in plymouth up the road from me and my mate ryan bought a Derbi senda for £1,100 07 model really nice condition looks new tbh but i dont like the front end of them tbh wierd looking haa looks like theres gonna be aload of 50's terrorising plymouth soon haaa.

Another storie saw a guy on monday driving a RS50 exacly like the way mine is gonna turn out but obviously mines gonna turn out much better haaa and he was at the top of a hill and he revved the bike i was like kk meh pretty normal then he revved it to like 10k revs sounded like the bike wanted to blow up it was pretty much screamin then it let the clutch out and went down the hill by the time he has got 2 feet down he went up to 2nd and the bike was still screamin, sounded like he wanted to blow the bike up didnt sounds good what so ever..

Now i did say this was a big update but i dont have pics once again mostly because im usually finishing working on the bike around 9pm and its dark by that time and the pics look shit so ill try and take some tomororw if i can kk :D tell me what ya think of this post kk :DD WOOP WOOP BRING ON THE 50 POWA!!!

Aprilia af1
10-05-2010, 05:29 PM
Regarding the rear brake pedal not activating your brake lights, could be that the connections on the rear master cylinder (pressure switch) need cleaning, there not connected, the wires are broken,there just aren't any wires or you need a new pressure switch (don't cost much,but if you do replace it make sure the thread is the same or it's for an rs50)

Hope this helps.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-06-2010, 12:53 AM
well i already had to free the wires from each other as they had melted together and made the light turn on all the time so soon ill take the switch out and see whats happening :s

RS_Patrick
10-06-2010, 04:32 AM
Rear light switch is a Presure Sensor, if you Screw it out you need to refill and rebleed the brake system.

Low Brakefluid presure (old fluid/air in the system) can also cause the sensor not to work as theres not enough presure to activate it.

RS_Patrick
10-06-2010, 04:40 AM
Another picture of how a boost bottle is connected mate. You've got vacume, t-tube, boost bottle then I don't know where it leads from there but you get the idea.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s166/domcole_uk/BOOSTBOTTLE2.jpg

I dont see how thats gonna work as the Booster Bottle should be fitted onto the Manifold between the Reedvalve and Carb, the Point of it is wen the reeds close the mixture shoots into the Booster bottle wen you close the throttle, and wen you open it it sucks the mixture back out of the booster bottle giving you a slightly better throttle response.

Its such a little advantage that for roaduse its a complete waste of money, but on a race circuit every 1/10 of a second counts.

Dom.C
10-06-2010, 06:06 AM
I dont see how thats gonna work as the Booster Bottle should be fitted onto the Manifold between the Reedvalve and Carb, the Point of it is wen the reeds close the mixture shoots into the Booster bottle wen you close the throttle, and wen you open it it sucks the mixture back out of the booster bottle giving you a slightly better throttle response.

Its such a little advantage that for roaduse its a complete waste of money, but on a race circuit every 1/10 of a second counts.

Of course, I do agree but that one does function as it should so I'm not sure.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-06-2010, 03:11 PM
Right the choke still is not releasing, im starting the bike up with the choke on and the bike wont want to rev at all and i cant get the choke to release even after that if i wanna release it i have to take the throttle cable out of the carb and reset the lever.

Please please pease help me this is the only thing mechanically wrong with the bike and im mso egar to get on the road. also i bleed the breaks today and the switch still dont work i mite not have done it right but i think i have tbh the rear wheel stops straight away so i cant see the problem u dont think the switch could have sieezed up where i had the bike stood up with no break fluid in it ?????

xXxKillDogxXx
10-06-2010, 05:06 PM
can someone take a pic of under the petrol tank people so i know how to route all the cables properly just as a quick reference :D thank u guys

RS_Patrick
10-07-2010, 04:13 AM
Take a Picture of the Back of the Carb, where the Airfilter normaly goes mate.

If you bleed it make sure you get rid of the air in the brakepump, if its still not working you might have no other option than to take the switch out mate.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-07-2010, 09:51 AM
kk bud ill do that ina bit and post them tonight :D ty

xXxKillDogxXx
10-07-2010, 02:03 PM
no need to post the picture the problem is the cable its not adjusting properly and not releasing the choke cause the cable is a pattern part and its quite simply crap i think it may be to long :S and with the pressure switch deffo need a bleed again gonna do it tomororw and see how it goes from there :D btw later tonight ill have some new pics for ya :D

xXxKillDogxXx
10-07-2010, 05:18 PM
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/xXxkilldogxXx/PICT0483.jpg

only photo i can upload atm laptop playing up and to late to fix it atm ffs ill try tomororow kk guys

RS_Patrick
10-08-2010, 02:46 PM
no need to post the picture the problem is the cable its not adjusting properly and not releasing the choke cause the cable is a pattern part and its quite simply crap i think it may be to long :S and with the pressure switch deffo need a bleed again gonna do it tomororw and see how it goes from there :D btw later tonight ill have some new pics for ya :D

In that case it shouldnt be able to open the throttle more than half way also as it releases the choke at half throttle... so your saying your bike doesnt run at more than half power?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-08-2010, 03:53 PM
well i can release my choke by actually pulling the cable its self from the carb :l and the cable is full adjusted so i think at some point its gonna need a new throttle cable found one on like genuin for £25 so ill get that at some point but atm its just a case of getting it thro mot i need to get some more bolts and clips and a pressure switch for the rear master cyclinder....

today i bleed the rear brake again fitted new front pads and bleed the front brake fitted the front mud guard and properly attached the mirrors gotta sort out a little electrical problem with the left hand controls when i switch the left indicater on when the engine is running i hear a buzzing sounds also the light flashing button dont work it dont make any of the lights flash so im gonna take that off tomororw and see whats wrong with it

still gotta spray the tank and right hand fairing and switch the front idicator conecters for the right ones

xXxKillDogxXx
10-08-2010, 04:13 PM
Does my bike sound alrite????? btw it was warmed up and everything and i know i shouldnt of really revved it while its in neutral but i wanted to see what u guys thinked sounds a bit wierd :S or i mite just be paranoid i dunno any ways have a listen :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjSsPJR5D70&feature=player_embedded

RS_Patrick
10-08-2010, 04:46 PM
Its a bit hard to tell from a recording and cant play it loud enough at the moment (late evening)

Anyway if you need to pull the throotle cable to take the choke off than it defenatly isnt opening the throttle fully also, so the choke is fine, the throotle cable is not...

xXxKillDogxXx
10-08-2010, 05:09 PM
yep so im gonna get a throttle cable again ffs genuin this time after mot and shit when i got money tho
can u help me find a mastercyclinder switch cant find one but im in uk :D

xXxKillDogxXx
10-08-2010, 06:18 PM
ive found a brake switch dont say its for the rs50 but look exactly the same can someone confirm if this will fit?




http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-XT125R-XT125X-Rear-Brake-Light-Switch-/270640095489?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f03682101

LINK FIXXED!!!

RS_Patrick
10-09-2010, 04:19 AM
dead link it seems, tells me to sign in.

Did you take the Brakeswitch out yet and check that way if it works?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-09-2010, 05:59 AM
no i havnt but i can do that tomorow or later tonight

xXxKillDogxXx
10-09-2010, 05:14 PM
Bike ant even finished and already pulled a girl cause of it haaa unlucky for her tho me got a misses lol

xXxKillDogxXx
10-14-2010, 10:28 AM
Having a problem finding the right M5x12 bolts the clips i can find theres everywhere but the bolts i find are either stupidly exspensive or the wrong size could i buy some M6 clips and some m6 bolts instead ?

RS_Patrick
10-15-2010, 05:03 AM
You dont need to fit M5x12, they can be a bit longer like M5x15 or 20 even.

Those Original pannel bolts are expensive and fake ones cost a bit more than a normal bolt also.
But i would fit Coloured Hex/Allen bolts, or if you can find them Original style ones, you can also get them in difrent colours, those pannel bolts can just be Aluminium or an other weak material because they are not under tension etc. they just need to hold some plastick.

Good tip: Put a little bit of grease on the threading, than they wont corrode into clips, that way there easy to remove the next time wen you need to take a pannel of to access the engine or something.

BTW, something popped into my mind: the 1999>2002 Throttle Cable is Difrent from the 2003>2005 Throttle Cable, (because of the difrent carb) If you didnt order one yet, keep that in mind.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-15-2010, 08:55 AM
ahhh ty patrick ur like a rs dictionary haa and yh copper grease is what i use its billiant stuff :D and so it dont matter if i chandge it from a m5 to a m6 then

xXxKillDogxXx
10-16-2010, 06:42 PM
ordered 20 m5 bolts 20 m5 clips genuin throttle cable tacho cable tank pad rim tape and dust caps thats last of it gonna spray the last bit tomororw then fit all the last stuff during the week then its mot and cbt WOop WOOP btw

Will this exhaust fit? just the end can btw

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RS50-Arrow-Exhaust-/280574177741?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item41538631cd

RS_Patrick
10-17-2010, 11:47 AM
Why did you order the M5 clips? You already got them unless they all broke.

What Exhaust do you have now?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-17-2010, 05:04 PM
i have a stock exhaust and its shocking ive got a 65 kit nothing major but tbh ant really looking for speed atm looking for something to get me about give me a bit of freedom, also is it pretty easy to get both headlights to turn on at the same time?

and when the previous owner slammed the bike to the floor he ripped the fairings off and never give me the clips so probally lost them ive order 20 new ones for £10 :/

Dom.C
10-17-2010, 05:24 PM
i have a stock exhaust and its shocking ive got a 65 kit nothing major but tbh ant really looking for speed atm looking for something to get me about give me a bit of freedom, also is it pretty easy to get both headlights to turn on at the same time?

and when the previous owner slammed the bike to the floor he ripped the fairings off and never give me the clips so probally lost them ive order 20 new ones for £10 :/

No the headlight has been explained a lot and in short just leave it how it is.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-17-2010, 05:58 PM
yh i just read the thread now... made me laugh with the hardcore disagreement with rob and patrick lol "no your wrong again patrick" fail hehe and btw my step bro has a Gilera 50 with race exhaust now ive got a 65 kit and a stock exhaust and derestricted

so Rs50 2000 model vs Gilera dna 50 who would win and who would be first of the mark i would say me but my bro is saying his does 70 but im thinking its a load of bull and he just speaking out his ass :/ whats ur opinion guys?

Dom.C
10-18-2010, 02:20 AM
yh i just read the thread now... made me laugh with the hardcore disagreement with rob and patrick lol "no your wrong again patrick" fail hehe and btw my step bro has a Gilera 50 with race exhaust now ive got a 65 kit and a stock exhaust and derestricted

so Rs50 2000 model vs Gilera dna 50 who would win and who would be first of the mark i would say me but my bro is saying his does 70 but im thinking its a load of bull and he just speaking out his ass :/ whats ur opinion guys?

Dna off the line, it's an auto. His doesn't do 70mph lol.

RS_Patrick
10-18-2010, 04:38 AM
If you change the Silencer on the Stock pipe for one thats ment for a Fast exhaust you loose power, The Pipes and Silencers work difrent.
Stock Silencer is a Resonance Silencer, an Arrow can for example is an Absorption Silencer like most.

If i where you i would fit a complete exhaust like an Arrow or Giannelli, especaily the Kevlar silencer versions are really nice for Road use.
(dont get the pipe you linked to, like the add says, it has a lot of patches, and he still claims its solid... looks like in a month driving there wouldnt be anything left of it but a pipe welded together from patches)

Html33
10-19-2010, 02:27 PM
If you change the Silencer on the Stock pipe for one thats ment for a Fast exhaust you loose power, The Pipes and Silencers work difrent.
Stock Silencer is a Resonance Silencer, an Arrow can for example is an Absorption Silencer like most.

If i where you i would fit a complete exhaust like an Arrow or Giannelli, especaily the Kevlar silencer versions are really nice for Road use.
(dont get the pipe you linked to, like the add says, it has a lot of patches, and he still claims its solid... looks like in a month driving there wouldnt be anything left of it but a pipe welded together from patches)

£40 for a Arrow end can is still a good offer isin't it?

Tom-Hutch
10-19-2010, 02:39 PM
my mates DNA with the same setup gets to 42 clock speed in average time then slowly creeps up to 50, so no it wont do 70. rs50 should be faster but 65 kit and standard exhaust? destined for disaster!

RS_Patrick
10-19-2010, 06:27 PM
Look up the new price for an Arrow endcan mate, but with your Stock exhaust its gonna get you no where.


my mates DNA with the same setup gets to 42 clock speed in average time then slowly creeps up to 50, so no it wont do 70. rs50 should be faster but 65 kit and standard exhaust? destined for disaster!

You dont/cant know the rest of the specs of the DNA, so you cant say there the same, and every pipe is difrent.

65cc on a Stock pipe works, but the pipe seriously limits it, waste of money on the 65cc kit than.
The Stock Pipe (especaily if its a little older) might burn/blow out the catalist converter wich is likely than to block the exhaust off.

So get a Full Exhaust or leave it 50cc, if you dont have the money for both than first do the pipe as that will give the biggest difrence, than you can always later fit a BBK.

Tom-Hutch
10-20-2010, 07:12 AM
well it has had a technigas pipe and an endy one it aint exactly gonna do 20 mph more depending on choice of exhaust

xXxKillDogxXx
10-20-2010, 02:04 PM
theres a second hand arrow pipe down a bikebreakers where i live for £60 gonna get the money see how it looks

xXxKillDogxXx
10-20-2010, 04:24 PM
mates got a derbi senda 07 sm 50 got a big one exhaust with stock engine he says he thinks 65 with it but he cant really tell since his speedo stops at 50 lol and then he said 80 down a hill lol true or false i would say false id say 60 with he race pipe and 65 down hill opinion anyone ?

also wtf is with the new speed fights they are restricted to fuck haa my mate got one and man dont it go slow seen him doing like 20 past me haaa he said he got 50 outa it lol im thinking more like 35 haa

RS_Patrick
10-20-2010, 10:33 PM
Flat Out down a hill is a bad idea, the engine can easly heatseize from that.

Dont know whats up with the new speedfights but they can be restricted in the crankcase and barrel (transfer ports blocked/missing, or limited in the RPM by the CDI.

I had one of the first Speedfights (prototype/showmodel, aircooled with chipkey and boalock), there really nice scooters, sadly i wrecked it before i ever found out its topspeed after tweaking it some more.

oh, and dont use the F-word on here please.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-21-2010, 04:38 PM
ahh kk and lol u being serious patrick lol, u actually crashed it hehe fail, tbh they sound really bad to derestrict no wonder he went past me at like 20mph haa

xXxKillDogxXx
10-22-2010, 10:18 AM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aprilia-RS50-VERY-SPECIAL-TWIN-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-RS-50-/320591335290?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4aa4bb8f7a

Worth the money or is it more of a rip off

and would this kit me alright for my bike?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190450274908&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT

do u think them together with my standard carb would be alright?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-22-2010, 12:58 PM
Im glad to say that the only problems with my bike now is a mirror, the brake switch (even after cleaning) and the right hand rearset bracket stopper (going to bodge it) and the bent lever on RH bracket

And another good thing is my CBT is on sunday from 8am, any tips for my cbt ? cost me £95 using there bike

hopefully mot check on wednesday by my boss but atm im having problems with the electrics after a ride the front lights stopped working totally so something has got stuck and broken or one of the clips has come lose.

and another thing the rear indicaters work but when the front are connect all i hear is a fast buzzing sound so the flash relay has obliously gone so im going to get one tomoz ill hopefully have pics up tomoz as all the fairing is now on just a tidy up on the wiring now.

Genuin throttle cable has been fitted and i got a chance to adjust it alot better and now the thottle has no slack and the choke release's when throttle is pulled right back.

I cleaned the brake switch today and connect it up to the wires if i stick a wire rod in the little hole on the switch to press the little button the rear light works but when fitted to the master cyclinder it wont even after a full bleed of the brakes any ideas?

Dom.C
10-22-2010, 01:06 PM
Im glad to say that the only problems with my bike now is a mirror, the brake switch (even after cleaning) and the right hand rearset bracket stopper (going to bodge it) and the bent lever on RH bracket

And another good thing is my CBT is on sunday from 8am, any tips for my cbt ? cost me £95 using there bike

hopefully mot check on wednesday by my boss but atm im having problems with the electrics after a ride the front lights stopped working totally so something has got stuck and broken or one of the clips has come lose.

and another thing the rear indicaters work but when the front are connect all i hear is a fast buzzing sound so the flash relay has obliously gone so im going to get one tomoz ill hopefully have pics up tomoz as all the fairing is now on just a tidy up on the wiring now.

Genuin throttle cable has been fitted and i got a chance to adjust it alot better and now the thottle has no slack and the choke release's when throttle is pulled right back.

I cleaned the brake switch today and connect it up to the wires if i stick a wire rod in the little hole on the switch to press the little button the rear light works but when fitted to the master cyclinder it wont even after a full bleed of the brakes any ideas?

Just have enjoy the CBT it'll be fun, you'll be fine. Just listen to what the instructors are saying.

Don't be afraid to give it a handful throttle as well, you'll find you will need to since it'll be restricted to 30mph! I say that but obviously be careful lol.

Remember wherever your head is pointing, the bike will go there too. This is handy for the u-turn. It'll feel strange at first looking over your shoulder and turning at the same time but I'm sure you'll get it.

If the brake won't work after bleeding, bleed it again. It may take a couple of times for it to work depending on the condition of the brake system.
If you're still struggling you may need a new caliper/get your current one rebuilt but come back here before you do any of that so you don't spend money unnecessarily.

Good luck

xXxKillDogxXx
10-22-2010, 04:19 PM
the brakes fine its just the light wont come on the brake is nice now just the switch is acting up and i dont think my local bike breakers is gonna supplie it :s
and there hard to get hold of grrhhh

RS_Patrick
10-22-2010, 08:37 PM
Rear Brakelight Switch is a bit hard to check, I would take it out and clean it.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-23-2010, 10:22 AM
i have cleaned it and it works when i push a metal rod inside it just when its connected to the master cyclinder it wont work :S

RS_Patrick
10-23-2010, 04:26 PM
Than there is still air left probably in the master cilinder, just a little bubble is enough to stop it from working, try loosening the switch while someone steps on the brake, tighten it back up while he holds the brake pedal down.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-24-2010, 01:30 PM
ok then ill try that tomoz before i get the new flash relay, and btw i passed my cbt today :D

RS_Patrick
10-25-2010, 08:46 AM
Be sure to try Bleeding it every wich way posible, remember if you bleed it theres need to be 2 of you, so one bleeds it, the other holds the brake lever, never let the lever go wen bleeding the brakes as it will suck air bake into the system.

Open to bleed, push the lever, or push the lever and open to bleed, Before you let the Lever go back Always Close the Bleed, or you such Air back into the system.
Fitting a Clear/Transparent rubber tube to the Bleeder nipple helps as you can see if theres air still comming out or just oul, and you can drain it nicely into a can or something to catch it, if its fresh oil you can reuse it again to top the reservoir off, if not use a new bottle of brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5.1, higher is better)

xXxKillDogxXx
10-25-2010, 12:55 PM
i have been doing that but still nothing, CMS bike shop near mine said the switch could be worn inside and that they have new ones in for £6 so im gonna buy a new switch tomoz and try again with that one :D i fitted the new flash relay now and all my idicaters work now which is brilliant i was getting worried about that haa, i do have one problem tho when i press my front brake my little front headlight bulb comes on and my dials light up haaa what do u think has happend?

RS_Patrick
10-25-2010, 08:32 PM
Dont believe those Hydrolic presure swiches are 6 pounds mate, think he thinks you got one thats like the one that attaches to the lever, like the types the lever rests on Like inside the front brake lever), or the lever pulls on by a spring.

Sounds like you got a Short somewhere, did you hook the rear brakeswitch back up, maybe one of the wires rests against the frame or an other metal part.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-26-2010, 05:24 AM
but its like none of my front lights will come on high beam low beam and the little bulb only comes on when i press the front brake :s

xXxKillDogxXx
10-26-2010, 09:20 AM
got the new brake switch for £16 lol and its all working woop woop btw how big is my exhaust port cause theres a arrow pipe brand new for £60 in my local bike breakers and its got a 28mm end will that fit my rs50 2000 model?

RS_Patrick
10-26-2010, 01:57 PM
Sounds like a Short mate, can be anything, think you just have to follow the wires, i sugest you start what you ghanged with the electronics, if you cant find it there than you start with the front brake switch and work your way back.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-26-2010, 03:19 PM
KK the front works now :s but the dials and front mini bulb in the headlight still comes on when i push the front break :S boss is saying it could be to do with the rear bulb ?

RS_Patrick
10-27-2010, 07:05 PM
Can be, But can be the Brake Swich also.

But if the Wires on the Rear light are fitted the wrong way it will give the same effect, basicly it sounds like your Positive Wire from the Brake Light is Shorting with the Positive from the Tail Light, So maybe you conected something wrong there or there is a Short.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-27-2010, 07:49 PM
ok we went throught the electrics today and it ant the rear and it dont seem to be the front ive looked thro a wiring diagram and the positive connection seems to also go to the dashboard lights so im thinking something has messed up on there so ill take it off tomoz and check it over... btw all i need now is a new mirror then its mot woop woop another thing my bushes in my starter moter seem to be quite worn tbh so it wasnt spinning at all so i took it out cleaned it and walla it works perfect now but deffo need to get either new bushes for it if thats possible? or a new starter or 2nd hand ant botherd theres one on ebay for £20 but ant got the money atm need to get the mirror first from bike breakers.

my fairing panels that connect to the v shaped panel that covers the exhaust its rubbing on my front wheel is it because the metal plates that stick off the frame are bent down? but if i bent them back up its going to get in the way of my rear brake lever? what do i do?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-27-2010, 07:51 PM
btw my low beam bulb one had gone would that affect my electrics?

xXxKillDogxXx
10-28-2010, 06:18 PM
Took the blue earth wire of my carb today and bolted it to a seperate bolt of its own on the carb manifold as i thought there was a bad earth and that was the reason why my front side light was coming on when i pressed the front brake lever or rear ? could this be possible its the skinnier of the 2 blue earth wires connected to the carb manifold basicly the one that dont come from the battery :D

RS_Patrick
10-28-2010, 06:58 PM
Edit your posts if you want to Add a Question, or Add something instead of making a new Post.

With the V shaped bit you mean the Bit thats directly behind the Rearwheel that holds the 2 side Fairings together?

If that rubs against your Front wheel your Front Fork or Frame is bent...
The 2 Side fairings are mounted to the Front Fairing and they are bolted in 2 places to the frame it self, so unless the 2 Side fairings dont line up with the Front fairing at all you got a reall problem.

This is exactly why i tell people to take a bike on a test drive and see if it keeps going in a straight line wen you let go of the handle bars on a flat empty bit of road,
if the bike doesnt run but they say the frame and for are straight its still posible to do this test by having someone push the bike while its in neutral and wen he stops pushing you should take your hands of the handle bars and it should still go straight untill it looses forward momentum/speed.

I think if you trace the thin wire attached to the Manifold it comes out at the CDI unit and is just to ground that.

And if your Bulb is burned out that will affect the electrics wen you would engage that circuit yes.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-28-2010, 07:03 PM
ive replaced the bulb in the front and the bulb that lights up the temp gauge and moved the earth wire to its own bolt on the Manifold im gonna fill the bike up with petrol tomoz and see if i managed to fix it aparently it happend on the previous owner all the lights went out :S

RS_Patrick
10-28-2010, 07:06 PM
Dude, if i where you i wouldnt worry about the lights etc, i would worry about the Fork or/and Frame, if thats Bent you spend all your money and time on this bike for nothing, you wont be able to get it MOTed ever.

And you cant just go swaping lights, because they fit doesnt mean there the same, there diffrent Watt's as far as i know, These little lights Need to be the Correct Wattage, not just for the amount of light or the electronics working ok, but also because the wrong Wattage in the wrong socket can easly melt something especaily in your Dash!.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-28-2010, 07:09 PM
my forks are ok i know that ive had them off and ive had cms check them over and fit new seals my frame which the mirros bolt into is bent to the left i know that for sure but its very hard to bent it back :S

RS_Patrick
10-28-2010, 07:33 PM
If the Subframe is bent its easier to take it off and heat it, and than bent it, mesure a bit wen its still fitted on the bike with the Fairing mounted loosly where about it should be and how much it has to move, You can heat it with it fitted to the bike also but make sure theres nothing that can melt or catch fire (wich would be a disaster with the feultank being so close and made of plastic)

If that V shaped bit rubs against the Front wheel somethings bent and you really have to do something about it, so lets hope its the suports for the fairings like you say, and that you can get them straightened out.

Bed Time now, Good Night.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-29-2010, 02:54 PM
Right its sorted, my rear bulb had the connections the wrong way around thats why it was messed up, the front sub frame which the mirrors bolt on to was bent and put everything out of line we bent it to a better state but definitly needs to be replaced :D other than that its perfect and is going for mot tomoz hopefully it passes and ive started sticking stickers on and it looks awsome.

RS_Patrick
10-29-2010, 05:35 PM
Good Luck than tomorrow mate.

xXxKillDogxXx
10-29-2010, 06:47 PM
I would like to say a big thanks to everybody who has helped me thro this project mainly Patrick and Dom for all your advice and tips your brilliant guys and deserve the upper most respect on this forum for all the help you give out. Thank you. :D

PS. i will be posting pics after tomoz with all the stickers on the lot

xXxKillDogxXx
10-30-2010, 07:55 AM
Passed mot, Passed CBT, Paid for my Insurance, Cant get my tax tho since my insurance ant on the system but tomoz is D-day and i will be on road WOOP WOOP !!!!!!!! put some more stickers on the bike and its looking smart will deffo get pics up for sure

THANKS GUYS :D


Little update: im not selling my Rs50 when i get a car i will be either garaging the bike for a while stripping and rebuilind fitting with race parts ect ect then ussing for a weekend bike to get around town

xXxKillDogxXx
10-31-2010, 10:56 AM
PICS :D the most recent are at the bottom with a pink car in the background which is my mums haaa http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2061607&id=1368923984

xXxKillDogxXx
12-22-2010, 08:59 PM
My rear tail is doing my head in i want a solo seat and i have the money well £200 anyways so will this seat fit? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-RS125-1998-2005-Pattern-Race-Seat-/260707825583?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb365b7af

Owen.G
12-23-2010, 04:34 PM
Niceee wan lad

I canni wait till i get on the road. 16th jan. :) Yeahhhhhhh

But a have few things to do to mines to get through the mot.

My rear brake light doesnt work on mines either. I will have to bleed it some more.

RS_Patrick
12-23-2010, 07:03 PM
My rear tail is doing my head in i want a solo seat and i have the money well £200 anyways so will this seat fit? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-RS125-1998-2005-Pattern-Race-Seat-/260707825583?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb365b7af


No, its for a RS125, you can only fit the Mono from a RS50 like that because it has the Y panels intergrated.

Mine is from a RS125 Junior GP Cup, and its just the rear panel, in wich case it will fit.

RS50 and the RS125 got the same rear end, but the Y pannels are difrent.

xXxKillDogxXx
12-31-2010, 08:38 AM
ahh kk ty patrick, ive got a little problem with the bike and its worring me very much the bike will start up from the button if i leave it for 45 mins or so but if ive just been riding and i stop to go in a shop or have a cig it wont start and i have to bump it any ideas? could it be my battery or have i got a compression problem? i cant check my compression cause i dont have a compression tester and if it is that i was thinking of sticking a 70 or 80 kit on it

RS_Patrick
12-31-2010, 03:47 PM
If it starts after 45 minutes being left or longer normaly than its not the battery, dont think its compresion also.

Might be Ignition (wen the coil is warm it might short and give a weaker spark) or Carburator (mixture to rich) or false air being suced in wen the engine is warm because it deforms.

xXxKillDogxXx
12-31-2010, 08:53 PM
right well ill explain in more detail i went out the other night it started straight from cold after 3 seconds of the starter motor spinning i rode for around a hour and half and stopped and tryed to start it and it was having none of it so i had to bump it and it started literally within me bummping it less than a meter my bike is stupidly easy to bump then today i adjusted the carb since i thought it was getting to much air i drove up town back down and up to a place called devils point around a 10 min drive had a cig and then the bike started with 3 secs of the starter motor spinning i was like brilliant the bikes back on track then i rode to kfc went inside order my food and then payed and recived my meal took around another 10 mins went outside and the bike wouldnt start? i bumped it and it bumped within a meter of movement i just really dont get it.

also my lights are quite dim if the bike idles with the lights on u can see the high beam or low beam light flicker and dim on idle and compared to when im riding theres a massive amount of difference in brightness and sometimes im afraid the bike will cut out on idle when the lights are on and the bike is just on idle with me not reving at all.

to top that all off my indicators will flash faster as i rev? is all this relevent to a cooked coil or is this many different things

RS_Patrick
12-31-2010, 09:28 PM
Indicators flash faster wen you rev the bike? and the Headlights flikker wen its at idle? sounds like the regulator is knackered.

If it was the battery the bike wouldnt start if you left it for a day or so.

I understand the not starting problem, really sounds like the carb setup.
Keep in mind you always need to Adjust the Idle and Micture with the Headlights On, while your adjusting it rev it from time to time to see how it responds and drop back in RPM to Idle.

Really sounds like the bike is idling a bit to low and the Mixture is a little bit on the rich side, so Adjust it. (with a Warm engine naturaly, just starting it cold and than trying to adjust it is pointless)

xXxKillDogxXx
12-31-2010, 09:32 PM
k ill do that tomoz the i forgot about the headlights tonight do the headlights need to be really bright on idle? and also can i fit a rs125 34mm carb to my bike? i have a pic for u to check if u could please patrick also have u got msn or anything ive got a few questions and would be easier over a instant messanger

RS_Patrick
12-31-2010, 09:58 PM
The Headlight are weak at idle because they get powered from the Stator, and no a 34mm carb is to big, IMO even a 21mm is to big for the "stock" 50cc cilinder.

And im sorry but i dont add any people from the Forum to my MSN.

xXxKillDogxXx
12-31-2010, 10:08 PM
my carb atm is a Sha carb with only a idle screw and as u have said in previous posts there crap and break easy i was thinking of saving up and getting a polini bbk from pm tuning for £204 its the ally kit not the cheap cast iron as i reckon if went cast iron id probs end up replacing it twice where as the ally would most probs last longer as ally weathers better and is more long lasting aprently to what ive heard the kit also comes with carbon reeds which is good i would have to get a bigger carb and a arrow pipe could i fit all that and keep the stock crank and then replace it later or would it all need to be done at the same time. what regulator would need to be replace and back to the coil i did check my new spark plug before i put it in and it didnt spark at first then all of a sudden it sparked but only inbetween the spark plug it didnt jump to the head bold at all :S so u think it could be a coil? it was a blue spark but it didnt jump and seemed to spark when it wanted tbh but once it was going it was ok

xXxKillDogxXx
01-01-2011, 01:23 AM
Ok so at 3 in the morning i went out and stripped my carb off cleaned it adjusted the idle check the spark plug aswell as reeds, i found my spark plug to be a greyish colour what does this mean? not enough oil cause if it is then i should be ok now since ive adjusted my oil pump correctly it seemed to be a bit off ive got a 63 jet in there does this sound correct to u guys? i will be getting pics up of the engine soon as im dropping it out and giving it a full gasket set aswell as hopefully buying and fitting a bigger carb a 80cc ally polini BBK which comes with carbon reeds, since my stock pipe is a bit old now im also going to replace that with a arrow pipe but do u think i should replace my crank for a stronger one if i fit the BBK or can i leave it and fit it later when i secure my self some more money?


On another note with the starting problems i have good compression i stuck my finger over the spark plug hole and it blew my thumb off easy and also my battery will spin my starter but wont give my spark plug enough energy to spark so ive taken it out and stuck it on my charger over night hopefully ill be able to stick it in tomoz and start her straight up, i do think my battery is going tho since it dont hold a charge for very long and does go flat after a while so im going to replace it very soon when i pick £20 up from my grandad haa


what size carb would be good to go with a 80cc polini kit? 19.5 or 21 theres only £20 difference but money is tight many of us probally know this.

There is a 95cc gt polini kit on pm tuning for £80 more it says crank case modification may be needed could someone please go more indepth on what that exacly means cause i may be interested in that kit instead its just the crankcase mod sounds difficult thats all?

RS_Patrick
01-01-2011, 08:51 AM
I never seen a Polini 95cc Kit, if it is 95cc it should come with a Longer Stroke Crank.

Anyway if i where you i get a Black Topperformances kit or something and a 19mm Carb.
I dont think you are planning to fit a Race Crank, so fitting anything bigger/faster will knacker the crank.

And dont forget you need Stiffer Clutchsprings as wel, even with just a simple 70cc kit.

If your regulator is knackered it might not charge the battery also, so if i where you i check if you get enough power at all before getting a fresh battery.
(you should always do that first) should be 13.5-14 volts on the battery end at 6000rpm.

As for the Spark, if you take the Sparkplug off and the Sparkplug Cap of so you just got the Lead wire, than you should hold it +-7mm (up to 10mm) from an Engine bolt and it should easly jump that gap with a blue spark, if its not sparking regulary than chack the wires from the Engine to the CDI unit and the Grounding, might be a bad contact or a damadged wire, or like i said a blown up CDI unit thats arcing internaly.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-01-2011, 10:34 AM
https://www.pmtuning.co.uk/index2.htm thats the 95 kit lol and i tryed to do that spark plug test but couldlnt take the cap off its proper stuck lol what regulator is it? have u got a picture or what actually connects to it?

Dom.C
01-01-2011, 03:21 PM
https://www.pmtuning.co.uk/index2.htm thats the 95 kit lol and i tryed to do that spark plug test but couldlnt take the cap off its proper stuck lol what regulator is it? have u got a picture or what actually connects to it?

Check the link before you post it, hence the 'index' at the end of the link.

PM's website has always been like that unfortunately.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-01-2011, 04:42 PM
Ok sorry didnt relise well if u go into pm tunings shop and click aprillia>rs50 1999>2006 and then scroll down to there Big bore kits u will see a 95 gt parama kit big bore and on the info for it it says

"Parmakit GT Plus 55 95cc aluminium cylinder with aluminium head. Fitting this kit may require crankcase modification and adjustment of the carburettor. It should only be fitted by someone with the mechanical ability and equipment to rebuild and set up the engine correctly. It is also recommended to increase the gear ratios to prevent over reving and reducing reliability of the engine. " what ive highlighted in bold is what is really concerning me? First off is parma kits good? and how much of a modification do u think would be needed?

RS_Patrick
01-01-2011, 05:18 PM
Crank Cases need to be bored out, so you cant go back to a "normal" cilinder after that + i hear that there not that fast.
It also doesnt mention that you need a Big Stroke Crankshaft (seems its not included with this set)

So like i said before your much better off buying a Black Top Performances kit or a Pink Top Performances but with the last you will need a Race Crank.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-01-2011, 07:14 PM
Kk so i may aswell go for that polini 80 ally kit then for £204 seems alot less work and if i wanted i can revert back to stock i charged my battery last night and stuck it back in tonight it started straight up rode it for a while with the lights on cause it was dark stopped had a cig and then it wouldnt start and my neutral light was dimming with start on and it had not intention to fire so im gonna get my money and get a new one.

when i stuck it on charge last night the charger has 2 lights a low level battery light and a full battery power light when i connect the dead battery it goes straight to full power but well obviously it ant so im guessing all these problems are down to a crap battery

RS_Patrick
01-02-2011, 01:47 PM
Pink Top Performanses is faster but its your choice, in anycase you need to swap the Crankshaft for a Race one.
Thats why i sugested to go for a Black Top Performanses or DR 73cc kit and a 19mm, that already doubles the power of your bike (12HP)

With your starting isue it might be a good idea to get a Yellow Top Performances CDI unit also, easy to fit as it fits right on where the original one was, gives you better responce trough the who;le rpm range and extra rpm on top end.

If the Charger say the Battery is Full than i would say its full, but your starting isue comes from something else.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-02-2011, 02:01 PM
Could it be the voltage regulater u know the green thing with 3 wires attached to it blue yellow and green?

RS_Patrick
01-02-2011, 11:31 PM
Do you read what i post completly, or just look at a few words???

I sugest you read the previous page over again.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-02-2011, 11:43 PM
So u think my CDI is on its way out then? and it needs replacing? could u explain why the cdi only works when its cold i dont get it

xXxKillDogxXx
01-03-2011, 12:34 AM
is this anygood? i couldnt find a yellow top performance cdi anywhere i did google and all i found was a thread about it asking if there anygood on this forum nothin more


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/APRILIA-RS-50-ATHENA-CDI-UNIT-/270624979253?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f02817935
i found this one and theres one on adrenalin-pedstop exact same by the looks of it and its only £50 seems pretty cheap since some of the genuin cdis on ebay are £70 second hand :S

xXxKillDogxXx
01-03-2011, 11:10 AM
Ok little update today the bike struggled to gain low revs but soon as it built up after 10 secs it would screen but still hardly any power so im thinking my cdi is screwed 100%

RS_Patrick
01-03-2011, 07:39 PM
I never used Athena, my guess is its just a stock replacment.

And your last post can be weak spark, or bad mixture, keep an eye on the Sparkplug collor, White/Grey is to lean, Black is to Rich.
Coffee with cream or caramel collor is perfect, bit darker or a little lighter is ok also.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-03-2011, 07:41 PM
last time i checked it was a grey colour so i re adjusted the oil pump properly

xXxKillDogxXx
01-03-2011, 10:40 PM
BIG UPDATE ENGINE BLEW UP....


well atleast i think it did since i got a shit load of smoke come out the exhuast that smelt like burned rubber oil and petrol and then i got a shitload of smoke from underneith my petrol tank, meh probally fine haa nah im gonna drop the engine out and rebuild it with a whole new gasket set new crank seals new top end probs 70cc top nothing to expensive as i just wanna get it back on road :S

anything i should remeber when rebuilding a am6 engine?

RS_Patrick
01-03-2011, 11:59 PM
Oilpump only has one setting on the AM-6, and thats fully open at full throttle...

You been reving your bike a bit to much so it blew?
If you got smoke coming up from under the tank that could be fun, can be simply a blown cilinder gasket/seal, or your piston now has taken residence in the bottom of your crankcase.

Get a Doppler ER1 Crank, there relativly cheap and you dont have to worry about a Big Bore kit destroying your Crankshaft.

xXxKillDogxXx
01-04-2011, 09:57 AM
it was just a lil under adjusted at full throttle like 2mm off nothing big and nah i was driving through town after i cleaned the carb since i thought it was a fuel problem and it was running brilliant still it bogged out and then all i saw was smoke everywhere it still starts if i bump it

xXxKillDogxXx
01-04-2011, 02:25 PM
Engine is not situated in my room and is coming apart all the gaskets are screwed apart from the top end which i replaced so its all coming apart and im taking pictures btw my top end is fine :S no scores no marks infact its shiny the piston rings are fine not broken but they do seem to be red where they sit on the piston