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micknwop
03-16-2010, 09:03 PM
Hey guys, I'm a long time af1 member (had a mille) but i've recently started a rs50 project. Ive been reading a lot of the already posted threads and have gotten A LOT of great information. I wanted to start my own build thread because i know i'll have numerous questions pertaining to my rebuild.

Here's a couple pictures to start things off. I pulled the engine yesterday.

crappy phone pic
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0228002045.jpg

dirty!

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04255.jpg

elbow grease clean!
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04277.jpg

kaboom!
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04271.jpg


So, the rs50 came with a malossi 70cc bbk on it. As you can see from the last picture the piston is fried. I think the cylinder is bad too. I do have a different cylinder that looks to be in good order, still has the cross hatch, its a 70cc malossi too. Check pics

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0302001903.jpg

the head has some detination marks but i might get that machined.

Here's my first question. I live in the states and have been trying to source more parts for it. I have these options i can think of.

option 1: buy 70cc malossi piston kit, machine current head, use good cylinder.

I found this 70cc piston kit (http://www.scootercraft.com/product_info.php?info=p6977_Malossi-Sport-Piston---Minarelli.html&XTCsid=b613c06d372b8f21f1d15ddc7e94a8a6) would this work?

option 2: buy a whole new bbk. Im open to suggestions.

polini, malossi, etc.

found this 70cc bbk vertical (http://www.scootercraft.com/product_info.php?info=p23057_Malossi-70cc-Sport-Cylinder-Kit--10mm----Minarelli-Vertical.html&XTCsid=b613c06d372b8f21f1d15ddc7e94a8a6)

whats the difference? my head looks like this one in the horizontal bbk

70cc bbk horizontal (http://www.scootercraft.com/product_info.php?info=p6831_Malossi-70cc-Sport-Cylinder-Kit---Minarelli-Horizontal-LC.html&XTCsid=b613c06d372b8f21f1d15ddc7e94a8a6)

hope that wasnt too long of a read!

Fmxvxx
03-16-2010, 10:12 PM
Hey this might seem a weird question but why choose an rs50? sure they are nice little bikes but as soon as i could jump on something bigger there was no looking back just wondering the reasoning for going back to a 50cc?


Apart from that look's like a nice project wish you the best of luck with it :)

micknwop
03-17-2010, 01:08 AM
Hey this might seem a weird question but why choose an rs50? sure they are nice little bikes but as soon as i could jump on something bigger there was no looking back just wondering the reasoning for going back to a 50cc?


Apart from that look's like a nice project wish you the best of luck with it :)

ive always wanted a rs250, but too expensive. I picked this up for cheap from a friend. Almost complete, just some engine work.

I have a cr250r, a drz400sm, and another sportbike soon. This rs50 is just to cruise around town on and have some fun. Nothing more nothing less :)

bikebike69
03-17-2010, 07:44 AM
Hey this might seem a weird question but why choose an rs50? sure they are nice little bikes but as soon as i could jump on something bigger there was no looking back just wondering the reasoning for going back to a 50cc?


Apart from that look's like a nice project wish you the best of luck with it :)

Remember over here in the U.S. these are more of a toy or novelty really. Most of us already have larger bikes and these are for play. Great track day toys and alot cheaper to repair.

dan kerson
03-17-2010, 12:44 PM
the cylinder looks good. as lobg as there are no scrape lines in it your good.

Dom.C
03-17-2010, 01:11 PM
the cylinder looks good. as lobg as there are no scrape lines in it your good.

:plus:

Run your finger along the inside and feel for any scrapes etc.

micknwop
03-17-2010, 03:08 PM
the cylinder looks good. as lobg as there are no scrape lines in it your good.

no scrapes, fingernail test. here's a few more pics of it just to be sure. So, do you guys suggest that 70cc piston kit?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0302001904.jpg

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0302001904a.jpg




heres the head, my friend is a machinist, he said he can machine this head and make a plate to match the squish. What do you guys think?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0228002154.jpg

Fmxvxx
03-17-2010, 05:28 PM
ive always wanted a rs250, but too expensive. I picked this up for cheap from a friend. Almost complete, just some engine work.

I have a cr250r, a drz400sm, and another sportbike soon. This rs50 is just to cruise around town on and have some fun. Nothing more nothing less :)

Ah very true round a tight twisty track i imagine that it's alot more fun then using it to commute to work :p:

Quick question what are your view's on the drz400sm? seem a little underpowered from what i've heard?

Dom.C
03-17-2010, 05:41 PM
Yeah machining the head will be fine. You just need to make sure you get the squish bang on.

Could you re-size your pictures please? Makes things easier.

micknwop
03-17-2010, 06:49 PM
Ah very true round a tight twisty track i imagine that it's alot more fun then using it to commute to work :p:

Quick question what are your view's on the drz400sm? seem a little underpowered from what i've heard?

I may be a little biased. Im 135lbs so the thing has plenty oh power for me! I have a full exhaust, jetted, and 3x3 airbox. Those are the mandatory mods. Other than that people get crazy with them, adding bbks and expensive carbs. I've never had a problem passing people in twisties. I clutch up 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies. It'll take me to an 'indicated' 103mph on the freeway.

when you buy one, you have to realize it's NOT a husky or ktm or big boy bike. But damn if it isnt just the perfect do all bike for me and such fun. Im tracking it on saturday.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/095IMAGE95128-1.jpg


Yeah machining the head will be fine. You just need to make sure you get the squish bang on.

Could you re-size your pictures please? Makes things easier.

done!

ill probably go that route then, get a 70cc malossi piston kit, and a gasket kit. Then get the head machined.

Fmxvxx
03-17-2010, 07:37 PM
I may be a little biased. Im 135lbs so the thing has plenty oh power for me! I have a full exhaust, jetted, and 3x3 airbox. Those are the mandatory mods. Other than that people get crazy with them, adding bbks and expensive carbs. I've never had a problem passing people in twisties. I clutch up 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies. It'll take me to an 'indicated' 103mph on the freeway.

when you buy one, you have to realize it's NOT a husky or ktm or big boy bike. But damn if it isnt just the perfect do all bike for me and such fun. Im tracking it on saturday.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/095IMAGE95128-1.jpg



done!

ill probably go that route then, get a 70cc malossi piston kit, and a gasket kit. Then get the head machined.


Hmm cheers looking at the cost of them i don't think I'll be able to get one for awhile car is eating away all my fund's would love a bike for the summer well i have my trusty 50 in the garage but that doesn't count :P

bikebike69
03-17-2010, 07:47 PM
I too have a DRZ400SM,use it for commuting to work 44 miles round trip. No they dont make crazy power...but a 3x3 box mod,full exhaust,jetting can make them alot more fun. I'm 205lbs and can hit 85-86 on the flats with stock gearing.

Fmxvxx
03-17-2010, 08:04 PM
I too have a DRZ400SM,use it for commuting to work 44 miles round trip. No they dont make crazy power...but a 3x3 box mod,full exhaust,jetting can make them alot more fun. I'm 205lbs and can hit 85-86 on the flats with stock gearing.

Yea that is more than enough for me ridden a few inline 4 engines, yes they'll make alot more power for the same cc but they are fairly gutless untill you get into the higher rev band's and seeing as most of the road's round me are 40's and 60's there isnt alot of point having a bike that can reach those speed's in first gear :p:

Dammit made me want one even more any rich millionaire out there want to help me i need a whole Lotta money??

micknwop
03-18-2010, 10:46 PM
so this seems like the best deal i can find. And its a 2 ring.
70cc piston kit (http://www.scootercraft.com/product_info.php?info=p6977_Malossi-Sport-Piston---Minarelli.html&XTCsid=b613c06d372b8f21f1d15ddc7e94a8a6)

any help on a gasket set?

micknwop
03-26-2010, 04:18 PM
damn, that store isnt open. They are apparently relocating and not accepting orders now.

micknwop
03-28-2010, 10:32 AM
any of you U.S. guys know where to get a malossi 70cc 47mm piston kit?????

Dom.C
03-28-2010, 10:34 AM
any of you U.S. guys know where to get a malossi 70cc 47mm piston kit?????

Have a word with one of the moderators like Micah.

Try PM'ing Bikebike69 or DanKerson.

RS_Patrick
03-28-2010, 11:11 AM
As for the Piston, you need to know what type of piston and diameter, maybe there are imitation ones that fit well.
If you dont know the history of the cilinder (like if its been honed/polished up) i would not order a piston online.

I usualy take the Cilinder, and a Piston that i think is right, turn the Cilinder up side down on a Newspaper and drop the Piston in with out the rings, if it drops in and slows past the Exhaust port from the air trapped behind it its good, you should not hear it hit.
If it drops straight trough all the way onto the newspaper than its to small and you need an oversize bigger atleast.

Also look out theres no wear edge in the top of the cilinder where the pistonrings stoped, if it does have that and you fit a ne piston it might break the rings.

That Cilinder might be worth to get a new Piston for but if its troublesome i would just get a Cast Iron 70cc, or if you can get a Pink 50mm/75cc Top Performances kit in the USA again get that, much better than the Malossi you got.

Anyway if you click on Onlineshop at the Top of the page:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=96
Piston, Gasket and Small End Bearing ;) you need the 68cc...

micknwop
03-28-2010, 02:58 PM
Have a word with one of the moderators like Micah.

Try PM'ing Bikebike69 or DanKerson.

done


As for the Piston, you need to know what type of piston and diameter, maybe there are imitation ones that fit well.
If you dont know the history of the cilinder (like if its been honed/polished up) i would not order a piston online.

I usualy take the Cilinder, and a Piston that i think is right, turn the Cilinder up side down on a Newspaper and drop the Piston in with out the rings, if it drops in and slows past the Exhaust port from the air trapped behind it its good, you should not hear it hit.
If it drops straight trough all the way onto the newspaper than its to small and you need an oversize bigger atleast.

Also look out theres no wear edge in the top of the cilinder where the pistonrings stoped, if it does have that and you fit a ne piston it might break the rings.

That Cilinder might be worth to get a new Piston for but if its troublesome i would just get a Cast Iron 70cc, or if you can get a Pink 50mm/75cc Top Performances kit in the USA again get that, much better than the Malossi you got.

Anyway if you click on Onlineshop at the Top of the page:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=96
Piston, Gasket and Small End Bearing ;) you need the 68cc...

weird, i kept researching and found the 47mm to be a 70cc. Thats odd that they have a 47mm as a 68cc. A little more expensive than the others but eh.

i understand about the piston fit, but without ordering a piston i have no way of running that test. I've used a digi cal to measure the diameter and i get 47mm thats as far as i know what to test.

RS_Patrick
03-28-2010, 05:34 PM
If there is no sign of it being honed/polished than it should be the right piston, If you acuradly mesured it and it says 47mm you should be fine.
Anyway its not even 68cc :p:

Here is how you calculate the cc (cm³)

Pi (3,14) x radius x radius x stroke = volume
or
Pi (3,14) x Radius² x stroke = volume

Radius is half of the diameter
For example a cilinder is 47mm in diameter, the stroke of the AM-6 engine is 39mm.

3,14 x 23,5 x 23,5 x 39 = 67628
so its 67628mm³ or 67,628cm³
So thats 67,6cc.

Anyway a 50mm Kit is not 80cc also, but just 76,5cc

The biggest kit i know for the AM6 is the Top Performances 86,3cc 50mm 44mm Stroker kit (its a complete kit, Aluminium 50mm Big Bore with 44mm race crank) :lover:

RiejuR51
03-29-2010, 06:37 AM
If there is no sign of it being honed/polished than it should be the right piston, If you acuradly mesured it and it says 47mm you should be fine.
Anyway its not even 68cc :p:

Here is how you calculate the cc (cm³)

Pi (3,14) x radius x radius x stroke = volume
or
Pi (3,14) x Radius² x stroke = volume

Radius is half of the diameter
For example a cilinder is 47mm in diameter, the stroke of the AM-6 engine is 39mm.

3,14 x 23,5 x 23,5 x 39 = 67628
so its 67628mm³ or 67,628cm³
So thats 67,6cc.

Anyway a 50mm Kit is not 80cc also, but just 76,5cc

The biggest kit i know for the AM6 is the Top Performances 86,3cc 50mm 44mm Stroker kit (its a complete kit, Aluminium 50mm Big Bore with 44mm race crank) :lover:

still slow as fuck though :D

RS_Patrick
03-29-2010, 10:25 AM
There are 2 difrent 44mm stroke version, the 49,5mm bore and 50mm bore...

Its funny but i hear difrent storries about the Kits, some say its slow and some say its really fast.

p.s. its always people that dont own it that complain about it being slow, and the only guy i know that had one and said it was slow had fitted a reedvalve with 0.30mm reeds in it... while it need 0.50mm reeds.

Like i said somewhere else, if you buy a Reedvalve they always come with the thinnest (usualy 0.30mm) reeds installed for 50cc, for 70cc you needstiffer ones than most (all) manufactures fit in there Reedvalves.

And keep in mind the more CC you got the Less high your Max RPM, the Max power comes at a Lower RPM Also so thats shouldnt be a reall problem.

Most importandly... and probably the biggest problem, you need a suitable Exhaust for 85cc/86cc.

Aprilia af1
03-29-2010, 10:50 AM
If there is no sign of it being honed/polished than it should be the right piston, If you acuradly mesured it and it says 47mm you should be fine.
Anyway its not even 68cc :p:

Here is how you calculate the cc (cm³)

Pi (3,14) x radius x radius x stroke = volume
or
Pi (3,14) x Radius² x stroke = volume

Radius is half of the diameter
For example a cilinder is 47mm in diameter, the stroke of the AM-6 engine is 39mm.

3,14 x 23,5 x 23,5 x 39 = 67628
so its 67628mm³ or 67,628cm³
So thats 67,6cc.

Anyway a 50mm Kit is not 80cc also, but just 76,5cc

The biggest kit i know for the AM6 is the Top Performances 86,3cc 50mm 44mm Stroker kit (its a complete kit, Aluminium 50mm Big Bore with 44mm race crank) :lover:

Don't a company called Simonini or similar do a 90cc kit with a different stroke crank?
They also do big cc kits for the simson s50 or s51 IIRC.

Dom.C
03-29-2010, 11:37 AM
There are 2 difrent 44mm stroke version, the 49,5mm bore and 50mm bore...

Its funny but i hear difrent storries about the Kits, some say its slow and some say its really fast.

p.s. its always people that dont own it that complain about it being slow, and the only guy i know that had one and said it was slow had fitted a reedvalve with 0.30mm reeds in it... while it need 0.50mm reeds.

Like i said somewhere else, if you buy a Reedvalve they always come with the thinnest (usualy 0.30mm) reeds installed for 50cc, for 70cc you needstiffer ones than most (all) manufactures fit in there Reedvalves.

And keep in mind the more CC you got the Less high your Max RPM, the Max power comes at a Lower RPM Also so thats shouldnt be a reall problem.

Most importandly... and probably the biggest problem, you need a suitable Exhaust for 85cc/86cc.

:plus: Very true.


Don't a company called Simonini or similar do a 90cc kit with a different stroke crank?
They also do big cc kits for the simson s50 or s51 IIRC.

Yeah I heard that as well. I'ma give it a search, quite interesting.

RS_Patrick
03-29-2010, 03:08 PM
Don't a company called Simonini or similar do a 90cc kit with a different stroke crank?
They also do big cc kits for the simson s50 or s51 IIRC.

Yes, 46mm stroke crank and 50mm big bore kit, but i dont know of anyone who has/had one.

micknwop
04-02-2010, 01:23 PM
alright gentlemen, next question. I was about to order my 47mm piston kit when i looked at the jug a little closer and noticed these marks. I remember someone saying marks could mean engine work (bored) and the like. What are these?

sharpie - .75

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04487.jpg



0 10 02


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04485.jpg

RS_Patrick
04-03-2010, 11:25 AM
That number in the bottom might be done by the factory (probably is)

The number on the side could be anything, but its posible that it means its oversized by 0.75mm (in wich case i would trow it away because that would have removed the nikasil layer)

micknwop
04-03-2010, 02:48 PM
That number in the bottom might be done by the factory (probably is)

The number on the side could be anything, but its posible that it means its oversized by 0.75mm (in wich case i would trow it away because that would have removed the nikasil layer)

even if the crosshatch is still there? I know you can't see it in the pictures though.

would they have bored it .75mm and put a bigger piston/rings in ?

RS_Patrick
04-04-2010, 06:26 PM
Crosshatch? you mean the light scratches going round in the barrel spiralling up and down?

Thats from polishing, that doesnt tell you if its new, lightly polished or bored up, just that its been polished.

If you mesure it, i sugest crossmessuring it so north/south and east/west to make sure its not oval, and doing that on the top and bottem.
If you really mesure 47mm than it should be fine with the normal piston and rings.

I dont know how you got that cilinder or why it has no piston and cant mesure it for you, anit just strikes me odd that a undamadged/unbored cilinder would have no piston.

micknwop
04-05-2010, 08:41 PM
example of crosshatch

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/9051574/0612em_06_z+cylinder_head_honing+crosshatch_angle. jpg



i measured in perpendicular patterns, they were all right around 46.96 or so.

I know what you mean about an extra cylinder being odd. But the guy i bought it from said the OP didnt want to bother with another top end and just bought a rs125. Must be nice to have that expendable cash.

i think ill chance it with a piston kit.

RS_Patrick
04-05-2010, 08:52 PM
Thats what i ment, those croshatch paterns are from polishing/honing, wich can be in there from the factory or because someone polished/honed it because the barrel was scratched or bored up.

Im guessing yours have been in there from the factory if your mesuring 46.96 so the stock piston should fit.

micknwop
04-09-2010, 01:15 PM
piston/gasket kit is ordered, will update later :D


thanks so far guys

micknwop
04-18-2010, 08:47 PM
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0415001842.jpg

RS_Patrick
04-19-2010, 02:21 AM
And does it fit?

micknwop
04-22-2010, 12:32 AM
havent tried putting it in, how should i test it prior to full assembly? dont want to scratch anything....

Html33
04-22-2010, 03:15 AM
As for the Piston, you need to know what type of piston and diameter, maybe there are imitation ones that fit well.
If you dont know the history of the cilinder (like if its been honed/polished up) i would not order a piston online.

I usualy take the Cilinder, and a Piston that i think is right, turn the Cilinder up side down on a Newspaper and drop the Piston in with out the rings, if it drops in and slows past the Exhaust port from the air trapped behind it its good, you should not hear it hit.
If it drops straight trough all the way onto the newspaper than its to small and you need an oversize bigger atleast.

Also look out theres no wear edge in the top of the cilinder where the pistonrings stoped, if it does have that and you fit a ne piston it might break the rings.

That Cilinder might be worth to get a new Piston for but if its troublesome i would just get a Cast Iron 70cc, or if you can get a Pink 50mm/75cc Top Performances kit in the USA again get that, much better than the Malossi you got.

Anyway if you click on Onlineshop at the Top of the page:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=96
Piston, Gasket and Small End Bearing ;) you need the 68cc...

Read your own thread.

micknwop
04-22-2010, 04:11 PM
Read your own thread.

:) ahahaha, it's been a long week. Will do.

micknwop
04-27-2010, 01:24 PM
alrighty, so i tested it. It doesnt smack the paper underneath, but it eventually reaches it. when i drop it, it slows down by the exhuast port about half speed or more. But it definitetly doesnt creep down. Hope the video works, but it doesnt really portray it well. What do you think .

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/th_VE_0427001117.jpg (http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/?action=view&current=VE_0427001117.flv)

RS_Patrick
04-27-2010, 03:05 PM
bit hard to tell from the video but looks ok, should run fine

micknwop
06-21-2010, 10:59 AM
a little update. I got the head machined. Today I'm cracking the cases to check the condition of the bottom end.


how do i get the crankshaft nut off? is it standard or reverse thread? Do i need to brace the piston and use an impact wrench?

Thanks.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04536.jpg

micknwop
06-29-2010, 01:05 PM
a little update. I got the head machined. Today I'm cracking the cases to check the condition of the bottom end.


how do i get the crankshaft nut off? is it standard or reverse thread? Do i need to brace the piston and use an impact wrench?

]

anybody have some tips? i can't seem to break it loose.

Dom.C
06-29-2010, 01:34 PM
anybody have some tips? i can't seem to break it loose.

I'm not 100% sure but I would have said impact wrench otherwise it'd just spin the crank if you got a socket or spanner on there.

dan kerson
07-01-2010, 09:56 PM
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0415001842.jpg

I need a couple of those pistons!!!!!!! Where did you get those at. Link please.

RS_Patrick
07-03-2010, 04:32 PM
its not the properway to do it, but you can stick a thick still pin or tool trough the smallend and undo the nut with a normal wrench, i recall it being normal thread.

I normaly use airtools, helps if you undo the cranknuts before you remove the barrel, but if its already of put a carboard "sleave" in the crankcase incase the conrod spins round.
Airtools always get the job done (unles things are coroded solid)

micknwop
07-05-2010, 09:10 PM
I need a couple of those pistons!!!!!!! Where did you get those at. Link please.

pm sent


its not the properway to do it, but you can stick a thick still pin or tool trough the smallend and undo the nut with a normal wrench, i recall it being normal thread.

I normaly use airtools, helps if you undo the cranknuts before you remove the barrel, but if its already of put a carboard "sleave" in the crankcase incase the conrod spins round.
Airtools always get the job done (unles things are coroded solid)

yea i cant run a compressor in my garage. so i have to use hand tools. I already had the thought and put a screwdriver through the top end but it bent the screwdriver. I didnt want to go any harder in case it was reverse thread. I'll give it another go though.

mcglynn
07-06-2010, 05:11 PM
try hit it with impact, even like a hammer hitting the wrench or something to break it free, and make sure its torqued up after again!

Dom.C
07-06-2010, 06:12 PM
pm sent



yea i cant run a compressor in my garage. so i have to use hand tools. I already had the thought and put a screwdriver through the top end but it bent the screwdriver. I didnt want to go any harder in case it was reverse thread. I'll give it another go though.

No need for an air compressor, just get an electric impact wrench :)

micknwop
07-09-2010, 10:51 PM
update.

i couldnt take it off myself, all the ways i tried. I have wounds on my ribs from it, hahahah dont ask.

i took it to a great local aprilia dealership and they got it off in a snap. They also took the piston off the rod... and wow, my small bearing was goooooooooooooone! So, im going to finishing taking it apart, check out the crank, then see what i need.

on the list: gasket set, small bearing.

my rod has some blueing, hoping thats not shot too

Dom.C
07-10-2010, 05:49 AM
update.

i couldnt take it off myself, all the ways i tried. I have wounds on my ribs from it, hahahah dont ask.

i took it to a great local aprilia dealership and they got it off in a snap. They also took the piston off the rod... and wow, my small bearing was goooooooooooooone! So, im going to finishing taking it apart, check out the crank, then see what i need.

on the list: gasket set, small bearing.

my rod has some blueing, hoping thats not shot too

Least you got it sorted.

What's blueing?

mcglynn
07-10-2010, 10:41 AM
blue colourin,as in running very hot i'm going to guess? it would be right if the bike heat siezed...

micknwop
07-10-2010, 05:18 PM
Least you got it sorted.

What's blueing?


blue colourin,as in running very hot i'm going to guess? it would be right if the bike heat siezed...

yea, thats what im thinking. The top of the rod. around the small end bearing.

micknwop
07-15-2010, 10:58 AM
up

on the list: gasket set, small bearing.



2 crank bearings. I felt a little catch in them intermittantly so i guess better safe than sorry while i have it open.

40 + 17 + 50 = 107$ so far. Im sure ill think of more later before i order it. Any suggestions?

Nedry
07-15-2010, 11:14 AM
Are the crankshaft bearings easily replaceable or does a completely new crank have to be acquired? I had a friend who use to race a RS250 and he had noted that they really weren't serviceable.

knights_gpr50
07-15-2010, 11:17 AM
on the new piston around the wrist pin hole whats with the groove as ive seen it on other pistons but not on my own?

mcglynn
07-15-2010, 02:24 PM
nerdy, he means the main bearings, which the crankshafts sides are house in, eg the flywheel rod and the clutch side rod.

The crank seals would be worth replacing aswell.

andy_edw
07-15-2010, 02:29 PM
nerdy, he means the main bearings, which the crankshafts sides are house in, eg the flywheel rod and the clutch side rod.

The crank seals would be worth replacing aswell.

nerdy LOL, its nedry

Nedry
07-15-2010, 03:34 PM
nerdy, he means the main bearings, which the crankshafts sides are house in, eg the flywheel rod and the clutch side rod.

The crank seals would be worth replacing aswell.

Nerdy :p:

I'm still not familiar with what is necessary as part of the 2500 mile service (New piston and rings only?) or for that matter at which point other items become suspect. I knew what he meant about replacing the outer bearings, but my question was a bit in addition to that as well. Going even further, are the outer bearings pressed on to the crank? How long are the crankshaft bearings (outer) good for and what sort of mileage can one expect from a 'big end' connecting rod bearing and 'little end' wrist pin bearing?

I'm looking at the RS50's as an alternative to a scooter for my wife, (assuming one happens to appear in our price range) and am looking at the potential points of failure dependent upon mileage. I hope to get an RS250 for myself one day, my friend's was an absolute RIOT to ride -- his was fully kitted though. Ever since my Triumph has felt like a tank, the RS' are incredibly lightweight!

On the plus side, it looks like parts are pretty cheap for these things, even in the states, which surprised me a bit. I'm just concerned that I may find some that are nearing the need of bearing replacement and that I'll need an entirely new crankshaft as opposed to just replacing them. Since the topic of crankshaft bearing came up, I assumed it was a good place to make an inquiry.

micknwop
07-22-2010, 11:51 AM
on the new piston around the wrist pin hole whats with the groove as ive seen it on other pistons but not on my own?

thats for the wrist pin clip. holds the pin in place.


nerdy, he means the main bearings, which the crankshafts sides are house in, eg the flywheel rod and the clutch side rod.

The crank seals would be worth replacing aswell.

these are what im talking about. Not the bottom end bearing.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04528.jpg

mcglynn
07-22-2010, 01:05 PM
thats for the wrist pin clip. holds the pin in place.



these are what im talking about. Not the bottom end bearing.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04528.jpg

Yeah, main bearings as i said.

The maine bearings i would check within 10,000km maybe 7,000km.

The crank's can last upto 15k, and to check it, you just lift off the cylinder, put the piston to tdc, and check if there is any knock/movements in the rod while the crank flywheels stay still.

if not then refit, you can buy new rods and big & small end bearings, which arent usually too dear, but the main bearings DON'T need to be press fitted, but the crank big end needs to be press removed and press fitted, and needs to be balanced aswell before fitting it again.

dan kerson
07-23-2010, 12:16 AM
a little update. I got the head machined. Today I'm cracking the cases to check the condition of the bottom end.


how do i get the crankshaft nut off? is it standard or reverse thread? Do i need to brace the piston and use an impact wrench?

Thanks.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC04536.jpg

You need to use a nickle. its soft not to damage anything but hard enough to hold gears in place.

dan kerson
07-23-2010, 12:18 AM
Oops I'm late aren't I ?

dan kerson
07-23-2010, 12:19 AM
Replace the main berrings!!!!!!

mcglynn
07-23-2010, 05:32 AM
lol correcting yourself? ^^:D

micknwop
07-26-2010, 02:25 PM
used the nickel to tighten it a bit, works nicely. What the tq specs for that crankshaft nut?

dan kerson
07-26-2010, 10:06 PM
used the nickel to tighten it a bit, works nicely. What the tq specs for that crankshaft nut?

Make a face tight.

micknwop
08-15-2010, 12:05 PM
i should have all the parts now. Going to start putting the rest of the motor back together. Any tips for the top end? Im going to go by this little "how to"

bbk install (http://www.apriliaforum.com/techtips/rs50/rs75/bigbore.htm)

my new head doesnt have these nipples. Is this a necessity?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/0815001245.jpg

also, the write up said all piston rings will have stamped symbol which means :this side up: however my malossi 2 ring kit did NOT have any. But they looked identical on each side.

RS_Patrick
08-15-2010, 08:46 PM
Those nipples normaly have tubes running from them to the Carb or Manifold so its get warmed by the cooling fluid to keep it from freezing wen its cold and moist weather (between 0°C/32°F and 10°C/50°F)


I dont know about the rings, usualy its the keypin or shape of the rings that shows wich way is up, also there usualy are 2 difrent rings, one top and one bottom ring.

micknwop
08-16-2010, 12:29 AM
Those nipples normaly have tubes running from them to the Carb or Manifold so its get warmed by the cooling fluid to keep it from freezing wen its cold and moist weather (between 0°C/32°F and 10°C/50°F)


I dont know about the rings, usualy its the keypin or shape of the rings that shows wich way is up, also there usualy are 2 difrent rings, one top and one bottom ring.

i live in seattle, it's cold and moist a lot here. It'll drop in to the 20's (F) during the winter but i probably will ride my other bikes then. Do you think this is necessary?

I'm confused on the rings, i looked at them very closely with a led light and they looked identical. But the last thing i want to do is put the rings in wrong and start it up. Any suggestions?

micknwop
08-16-2010, 02:43 PM
anyone know where the two fabric gaskets go on the dellorto 21 mm carb?

im assuming its for a different carb. I put 2 + a rubber one on it already


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0816001218.jpg

RS_Patrick
08-16-2010, 06:32 PM
The rubber one could be for the Micturescrew, one of the others probably is for the cap of the throttle slider, the other one i dont know.

I cant help you with the pistonrings with out seeing them mate.

micknwop
08-16-2010, 07:07 PM
The rubber one could be for the Micturescrew, one of the others probably is for the cap of the throttle slider, the other one i dont know.

I cant help you with the pistonrings with out seeing them mate.

the rubber one is sorter, i also already put the cap gasket on. These 2 must be extra or for a different carb.

I think ill ask my shop tomorrow when i call about getting a temp sensor.

RS_Patrick
08-17-2010, 05:27 PM
the rubber one is sorter, i also already put the cap gasket on. These 2 must be extra or for a different carb.

I think ill ask my shop tomorrow when i call about getting a temp sensor.

Look up an exploded view of your carb online ;)

micknwop
08-19-2010, 04:35 PM
Look up an exploded view of your carb online ;)

found a similar one and no mention of those two.



im trying to source a temp sensor, so in the mean time i cleaned up the exhaust. here's some before and after pics. I was going to paint it in high heat black but now im not sure. From what ive read they rust easily?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0818001645.jpg

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0819001322.jpg

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0819001323.jpg

RS_Patrick
08-19-2010, 08:53 PM
If you maintain it well it doesnt rust to bad.

If you use Teflon (non sticky, so not chainspray etc.) and rub than on good and extra thick where it sits behind the bodywork it wont rust if you maintain that everytime you clean the bike.

I used Turtle Wax with Teflon on my exhaust, rubbed it on good and only polished it out on the part thats not behind the pannels.

But if you think the clearcoat is to thin or damadged/scratched ou can always put an extra layer of high heat resistand clearcoat on (looks nicer than black imo) or get it powdercoated with a heat resistand exhaust coating if its worth that to you, that will make it really rust proof.

Steve / AF1 Racing
08-19-2010, 11:26 PM
even if the crosshatch is still there? I know you can't see it in the pictures though.

would they have bored it .75mm and put a bigger piston/rings in ?

.75 is what the measured squish was. Some tuners (Micah included) like to write notes all over the side of the cylinder.

You should see the side of my RSW 125 cylinder, it looks like a dry erase board after Micah got done with it.

Regarding the cylinder, please don't throw it away, Millenium technologies can weld up and replate just about anything, and that cylinder, 68cc Malossi, really is a great street cylinder.

Steve / AF1 Racing
08-19-2010, 11:30 PM
Are the crankshaft bearings easily replaceable or does a completely new crank have to be acquired? I had a friend who use to race a RS250 and he had noted that they really weren't serviceable.

250 cranks were serviceable, but the crank design used a labyrinth seal in between the two con rods that couldn't easily be sourced.

I've always wanted to rebuild a 250 crank without the labyrinth seal to see how critical it really is...

RS_Patrick
08-20-2010, 07:54 AM
i live in seattle, it's cold and moist a lot here. It'll drop in to the 20's (F) during the winter but i probably will ride my other bikes then. Do you think this is necessary?

I'm confused on the rings, i looked at them very closely with a led light and they looked identical. But the last thing i want to do is put the rings in wrong and start it up. Any suggestions?

Missed this earlier.

If its below freezing the mosture in there air is already frozen wen it goes trough the carb, so than its not a problem, just above freezing if the air is moist and cold enough the moisture will freeze up on the sides of the venturi and the throttle slider because the evaporation of the feul cools the carb down well below freezing than.

I never had to much trouble with it my self, i regulary clean my carb and spray everything in WD40 or similar than wich helps against the ice forming on the throttle slider etc.

Only had it once that my throttle slider froze stuck at full throttle, i just turned the ignition off and pulled the clutch and rolled to a stop, after a minute or so its defrosted again and you can go on.

Would be a reall problem though if your ignition switch isnt working, that means you cant stop, at full throttle the bike will pull straight trough the brakes (plus the ground is most likly wet or icy) and pulling the clutch in will mean the engine will overrev, causing damadge to the engine, especaily since its probably already running much to lean from the ice in the carb.

micknwop
10-01-2010, 11:05 AM
Ive been gone traveling a bit but im back and ready to get this bike fired up. I've read this running in thread (http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207156&highlight=oil)

anything else you recommend?

ill get some full synth 10w40 and some full synth 2t oil. Ill probably premix it a bit for precautions.

couple questions:

this is the oil level sensor, does violet go to blue/white, or violet goes to black/white, or does it not matter either?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/1001001207.jpg

does the air duct just empty in to the engine bay? or am i missing a piece?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/1001001132.jpg

RS_Patrick
10-01-2010, 05:34 PM
Airduct is a dummy, so it just ends like that.

For the OilSensor wires:

I got Violet to Violet, and Blue to Blue...

I dont think it matters really wich way you connect them as its just a Switch (circuit open/circuit closed) nothing more.

micknwop
10-02-2010, 11:54 AM
Airduct is a dummy, so it just ends like that.

For the OilSensor wires:

I got Violet to Violet, and Blue to Blue...

I dont think it matters really wich way you connect them as its just a Switch (circuit open/circuit closed) nothing more.

Thats what i read in the wiring diagram, but it didnt match my wires. Should be fine. Thanks for the tip.

this is what im starting with on my 21mm del carb
MJ: 262-au
idle jet: 50
choke: 60
W7 needle: 2nd clip down

Dead battery, waiting for the new one to arrive :(

micknwop
10-15-2010, 04:34 PM
she's not firing.

got a new battery, new spark plug, it's getting spark.

dropped some premix in the plug hole. Still didnt start. Not really even stumbling.

I'm wondering about compression. Finger test was strong, when i put my crappy comp tester on it read around 80. Which after research seems a bit low. (my test might just be bad though).

any thoughts?

it's on the tender right now

micknwop
11-22-2010, 09:45 PM
ok guys, finally got some time to run a compression check. My meter is giving me 70psi. If i drop a little oil in, i get 80psi.

Im guessing i need to get a new cylinder, thoughts?

RS_Patrick
11-23-2010, 09:16 AM
ok guys, finally got some time to run a compression check. My meter is giving me 70psi. If i drop a little oil in, i get 80psi.

Im guessing i need to get a new cylinder, thoughts?

Thats almost half of what it should be so take the colinder and piston off and inspect it.

If it doesnt look bad take the rings off the piston, turn the barrel upside down on a news paper and drop the piston in, it should drop till it passes the ehaust port and than the air under it should prevent it from dropping further and it should slowly decent further onto the news paper and come down with out a sound, Altough im sure if your Compresion tester is right it will come down with with a Thud.

Btw, 262-au is not a Mainjet mate, its the Atomizer tube where the Mainjet screws in.

micknwop
12-02-2010, 02:31 PM
Thats almost half of what it should be so take the colinder and piston off and inspect it.

If it doesnt look bad take the rings off the piston, turn the barrel upside down on a news paper and drop the piston in, it should drop till it passes the ehaust port and than the air under it should prevent it from dropping further and it should slowly decent further onto the news paper and come down with out a sound, Altough im sure if your Compresion tester is right it will come down with with a Thud.

Btw, 262-au is not a Mainjet mate, its the Atomizer tube where the Mainjet screws in.

i was aware of a little wear, but was hoping to get away without a new cylinder. Here's the vid i posted before, you can't really tell but it doesnt slow down enough by the ports which worried me.

cylinder drop video (http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/?action=view&current=VE_0427001117.flv)

here's some pics of the cylinder.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0302001904.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0302001904a.jpg

So what are my options besides a new cylinder? Can i get it honed and use my new rings still? Will i need to get it bored and plated/sleeved?

micknwop
12-23-2011, 10:12 PM
I've been out of the country for a while, I'm back and working on the project again.


anyone know the clearances between the cylinder and the piston? I might pull the jug this week and see whats going on.

quote from searching "I have since found out that it is 3 thousandths (thanks to who ever I talked to at AF1)."

otherwise i have to try and source a new bbk for it. Any help? I've come up with adrenalin ped in the UK for about $250 for a 70cc.

RS_Patrick
12-24-2011, 03:15 AM
Did not see your previos post with the vid, no clue how i missed it, but that looks fine as you really see the piston slow down a lot once it drops by the ports.

As long as you lightly hone the cilinder it should probably still be all tight.

www.50cc.eu *
www.motorkit.com
www.easyparts.nl
www.euroscooters.nl
www.opvoeren.nl *
www.scootparts.nl

These shops ship atleast all over Europe, the ones marked with a * ship to the USA for sure, Easyparts is really good but normaly dont ship out side of Europe, but you could Email them and see if they are willing to ship parts to you in the USA

micknwop
12-24-2011, 04:20 PM
Thank you for the link patrick. You're right, the 2 starred ones are the best for US.

If I am to go the new bbk route, which do you all recommended, consider budget

Generic 70cc kit from 50cc.eu = 160 USD total
12235 70cc import 47mm
http://www.50cc.eu/plaatjes-onderd/12235.jpg

or a top performance 75cc kit from opvoeren = 215 USD total
http://www.vsmotoparts.com/brands/aprilia/rs-50-1999/cylinders/top-performance-cylinderkit-75cc
http://www.vsmotoparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/thumbnail/218x194/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/f/afbeelding_183.jpg

RS_Patrick
12-27-2011, 06:02 AM
TP one, keep in mind though Opvoeren.nl has pretty poor customer suport.

Michelet
12-27-2011, 03:12 PM
I bought TP75 II for my Aprilia RS50, haven´t tried it out yet but hoping it will be good! :D
If you give us a photo of your piston with piston rings it will be easier to tell if you need just new piston rings/piston or if you need to replace the whole shit :P

micknwop
01-02-2012, 11:50 PM
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/0415001842.jpg


I bought TP75 II for my Aprilia RS50, haven´t tried it out yet but hoping it will be good! :D
If you give us a photo of your piston with piston rings it will be easier to tell if you need just new piston rings/piston or if you need to replace the whole shit :P


its a brand new piston and ring. Possibly the wrong size.

micknwop
07-03-2012, 09:05 PM
Hey guys!!!!! Finally got some time and money to finish this up.

Here's and updated pic with the new TP 74cc kit :P
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/IMG_20120702_161210.jpg

In which position should the hole be on the thermostat? On this head there's an inset ledge. The way its positioned now some water would flow through the tiny hole regardless if the thermostat is open. If I put it on the ledge it will will plug the hole. What are your thoughts?
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/head.jpg

With this new kit, can someone give me a recommended jet setting. I have a 21mm carb, and the 74cc TP kit.
Currently I have
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/jets.jpg





thanks everyone!!

Glen1990
07-04-2012, 01:23 AM
remove the thermostat

micknwop
07-04-2012, 12:52 PM
remove the thermostat

Completely?? Run it constant free flowing?

I live in Seattle, it doesn't get very hot here.

Glen1990
07-04-2012, 12:56 PM
my self i would with that set up will take a tiny bit longer to warm up but atleast you know it wont over heat

Michelet
07-04-2012, 01:53 PM
I live in Norway, is never hot here..
I've been running without the thermostat for soon 2 seasons..

chrism15
07-04-2012, 02:22 PM
id only remove thermostat if its gonna be doing longer journeys or is in a hot climate, short journeys would be better to have a thermostat fitted so the engine reaches normal operating temp quicker

Glen1990
07-04-2012, 03:26 PM
it really dont take much longer at all i would 100% remove it.

micknwop
07-05-2012, 01:59 PM
Thanks for the info guys. Any thoughts on the jetting? I'm at sea level.

RS_Patrick
07-08-2012, 10:59 PM
take the thermostat out, on the other tp-kit and many other racing cilinders you can not even fit a thermostat.

mainjet 86 to 92, for running it in you want it to be a little bit to rich, helps to cool the piston.

micknwop
07-16-2012, 02:10 PM
Tried starting it, cranking but there's no spark. I'll work on that this weekend i suppose. Any hints, CDI?

I talked to my local Aprilia shop, the guy there said to go with a 120 main. He's built quite a bit of these but I found that to be a bit high from all the research I've done on here.

FYI: obviously the 262 is the atomizer, the main that was in there had the number grinded off. Weird.

RS_Patrick
07-16-2012, 04:01 PM
Number grinded off might be because someone bored up the mainjet, so it no longer was the size indicated.

Pull the Red/White wire of the CDI unit and see if it sparks than.
If you want to do a good spark test than: remove the sparkplug from the cilinder, remove the sparkplug cap from the lead, cut 5mm of the end of the lead so you get clean copper, hold the copper core about 7mm from a engine bolt (not one of the cilinder head bolts) and wen you crank her over it should easly bridge that gap constandly with a blue spark (make sure you hold the lead about 2 inches from the end or the spark might arc back at your fingers instead of going for the bolt)

Think you be looking at a 88 mainjet for your setup.

gookies
07-16-2012, 09:10 PM
Mine had no spark too, but I accidentally plugged in the wire that prevents it from starting up when the kickstand is down. Did you leave that wire unplugged?

ryanperkins
07-17-2012, 08:28 AM
Mine had no spark too, but I accidentally plugged in the wire that prevents it from starting up when the kickstand is down. Did you leave that wire unplugged?

:O you cant start with stand down?!? wheres this wire? :L do you have a 1999-2005 model?
sorry for the questions :P

chrism15
07-17-2012, 08:40 AM
:O you cant start with stand down?!? wheres this wire? :L do you have a 1999-2005 model?
sorry for the questions :P

think the side stand switch is only on usa models?

never had one on mine

RS_Patrick
07-17-2012, 06:50 PM
Yeah only on USA models, but the conector is there in all the wiring looms though, just infront of the CDI unit there should be a conector that doesnt go anywhere...

If you just pull the red/white wire of the CDI unit it should always spark if theres nothing wrong with the coils and CDI it self, if it sparks with that disconected than theres a problem in the wiring loom, or the sidestand (us version) or ignition lock or the switch on the handlebar if your model has a kill switch there.

Glen1990
07-18-2012, 03:17 AM
ahh is it that conector box with that has a 2 pin ? could i make a kill switch from it? im trying to make a kill switch as someone tryed stealing my bike the other week so ill make it hidden but if i can just run the wires from there that would be helpful

RS_Patrick
07-19-2012, 05:13 AM
You could, but i bet a hidden killswitch wont keep them from stealing it.

Glen1990
07-19-2012, 07:43 AM
its better than nothing tbh

micknwop
07-20-2012, 04:36 PM
You guys rock! She started :banana:

It's the side stand switch, i unplugged it and she had spark.

She fired up but was really smokey with the 120 main in it. I put the 97 main in and it's running better. The idle is pretty good but when i stand the bike upright in riding position it starts to increase in idle? Not sure what that is yet.

My local ape shop only had 70 jets then jumped to 97. Nothing in between. So I think I'll have to order some online before I can start to really tune it.

RS_Patrick
07-20-2012, 05:38 PM
Seems the sidestand switch is a pretty common thing to fail, im glad we dont have them over here :p: but atleast its an easy fix.

gookies
07-22-2012, 04:52 PM
Sidestand kill switch serves its purpose, but it's easy to forget about it and re-plug it back in when re-building and leading to cases such as micknwop and mine (no spark issues).

micknwop
07-31-2012, 12:01 AM
Took it for a small test ride after putting in a few different jets. Went with a 92 and it seemed pretty good for now. I rode it 4 times down the street and on the last run the throttle stuck and rev'd up to about 10k. Then I heard a clunk clunk but it was still running. I shut it off quick.

The clunking is the flywheel. The key came out and the bolt loosened up. Leaving the flywheel loose on the crank. I took it all off and wondered why. I see two possibilities.

1) I didn't tighten it enough and it loosed up on me and the key came out.

2) there's a bit of play in the crank shaft, it became unbalanced and dislodged the flywheel. I'm guessing maybe the crank bearings? Check out the video and let me know what you think.

Crappy vid
http://youtu.be/zWcmc3AdT8o


Sorry it's a long post, I really don't want to have the pull the cases apart again if I don't have to. :(

Glen1990
07-31-2012, 02:48 AM
looks like the crank bearings have gone badly tbh

RS_Patrick
07-31-2012, 07:51 PM
Think you didnt tighten the flywheel up enough mate, and the crank bearings have seen there best time...

micknwop
07-31-2012, 08:13 PM
Yea my biggest worry is thinking its just my fault for not tightening and putting it back together. Just to later have the bearings fail and cause major damage. Just trying to get some opinions before I make my decision.

RS_Patrick
07-31-2012, 08:53 PM
I think you just didnt tighten the flywheel up enough mate, and the bearings are a seperate problem wich has nothing to do with the other.
Seen bearings get knackered really quick after people rebuild the engine because they installed them the wrong way.

micknwop
07-31-2012, 08:59 PM
Thanks for the info. I think i'll put it back together and have a go at it. I'll report back in a week or so when i get to it.

Cheers!

micknwop
08-14-2012, 11:21 AM
She seems to be holding up for now. I suppose time will tell.

The clutch seems to be dragging a bit even when the cable is fully loose (literally slack in the cable). Anyone know what it could be?

Ive got a 90mj in there now but the screw is turned out past 3. I think I'll put my 88 in there and see if thats better. Cheers!

Michelet
08-14-2012, 04:09 PM
I think you need to adjust the clutch!

1. Drain the oil from the engine.
2. Drain the cooling fluid.
3. Remove clutchcover.
4. Adjust the nut on the clutch.

:)

RS_Patrick
08-14-2012, 04:23 PM
Its the central screw you need to adjust, the nut is just there to lock the screw.

Michelet
08-14-2012, 04:33 PM
I know Patrick, just forgot to write it ;)

micknwop
08-14-2012, 06:55 PM
I think you need to adjust the clutch!

1. Drain the oil from the engine.
2. Drain the cooling fluid.
3. Remove clutchcover.
4. Adjust the nut on the clutch.

:)


Its the central screw you need to adjust, the nut is just there to lock the screw.


Thanks guys!

This screw? I'm assuming counter clockwise to loosen it, if so, how do I know how much to adjust it?

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/clutch.jpg

Glen1990
08-15-2012, 02:13 AM
i screw it all the way it so its not tight but touching it then turn it half a turn out then tighten the lock nut make sure you hold the center while you tighten the lock nut tho lol i made the mistake

micknwop
08-25-2012, 01:30 PM
clutch is better now, thanks!

I finally brought it home to my apartment and got it plated. Going to ride it around a bit and do a plug chop to see how it's running. Has a 88 mj in it and is 2.5 turns out.

It's already been getting a lot of attention just sitting in the truck :D

xXxKillDogxXx
08-29-2012, 11:41 AM
When i had to remove thoes nuts to do seals and clutch i used a impact gun its alot easier and saves hours of time trying to jam the gears and undoing it with a spanner trust me.

micknwop
08-30-2012, 06:51 PM
Oiy!!! The damn thing won't start. Went to ride it today and no dice. It has good spark and petrol (the plug was wet). I dried it out and still won't start for some reason. Other reasons?


Also, is there a flasher somewhere? My turn signals don't blink, they just stay full on.

RS_Patrick
08-31-2012, 04:58 PM
Got all the indicators fitted and no burned out bulbs?

Flasher relay is under the feultank.


Did you check the sparkplug colour before i stoped running?

micknwop
09-04-2012, 02:20 PM
All are fitted, they are brand new signals. They are LED lights which could be the issue. I'll check the flasher relay I suppose.

The color seems a bit on the white side. Which is weird, i was at 90mj and the screw had to be out 3.5+ turns. Now I'm at 88mj and it idles around 1700 at 2.5 turns out.

RS_Roadrage
09-05-2012, 10:12 AM
i would try an 85 ish :D

micknwop
09-10-2012, 11:21 AM
i would try an 85 ish :D

I'll order some more. I have so many jets now!

Since these are LED indicators I'm going to buy a LED flasher relay and see if that works.

I got her started again. Didn't really do much but clean the air filter, took the carb off, and the fairings off, charged the batt fully.

Do these bikes need a full 12.5v to start similar to my old rsv1k?

RS_Roadrage
09-11-2012, 02:58 PM
i dont believe so , my battery is almost dead (non use killed it) and she fires pretty quick!

apriliamandan
09-12-2012, 12:47 PM
i dont believe so , my battery is almost dead (non use killed it) and she fires pretty quick!

yeah these engines have very little resistance to turn them over so not much power is needed to get them spinning.

micknwop
09-12-2012, 08:46 PM
Hmmm, then I'm not sure why she was being tempermental.

With the 88 in there, this is what my plug chop looks like. The idle screw is out past 3 and it's still idling at 2k rpm. The mixture screw doesn't seem to change anything from fully closed to 1.5 out. She's smoking a bit which is good in my book, not sure how much it should smoke though.

I think the color looks pretty good.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/micknwop8/rs50%20build/DSC00628.jpg

apriliamandan
09-13-2012, 09:58 AM
About it being temperamental, could be down to it flooding easily....too much fuel at idle....or left the fuel tap on..? Just some thoughts id put out there.
About the smoke, i always tend to go over the top making sure there is plenty of smoke and oil to be on the safe side.

micknwop
10-01-2012, 09:24 PM
updates.

I think that fluke was me flooding it.

It's running pretty good but i think it may have an air leak, will test that out.

The indicators just needed a solid state led relay. They all work now. Cheers!

Lewis Parr
08-08-2015, 02:09 PM
i screw it all the way it so its not tight but touching it then turn it half a turn out then tighten the lock nut make sure you hold the center while you tighten the lock nut tho lol i made the mistake
Hi I have my rs50 I have just put a new clutch cable on and adjusted it form the nut I then took it for a ride and I think it was slipping at 11 thou range so I went back home and when I stopped turned it off and now the clutch is stuck on I tried adjusting it from the lever and nothing so I assume the nut is to tight how tight should it be ?