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jaguar65
02-27-2004, 01:20 PM
I would like to repaint my sr, but I was hoping to do this for a relatively low price. My dad seems to think that if I repaint it, the paint will not stick to it well and an uneven coat will previal. However, I thought that once sanded down, the paint should go on ok - is this not the case?

phidauex
02-27-2004, 06:51 PM
I've painted some parts of my scooter with decent results. However, you need to do a lot of work.

If you wanted to repaint, you would need to sand off all the existing paint. You could run into trouble if you put an enamel over what might be a lacquer based clearcoat. Once you've sanded it off, you'll need to use several grits, going up to about 800 grit, to get the surface smooth again, then you'll need to prime it with a good primer/adhesion promoter, then do 4 or more coats of your color, and a few coats of a clearcoat. You have to pay attention to what types of paint and primers you are using, because many cannot be mixed. You must also pay attention to the recoat windows for the paint, and follow the instructions closely. If you recoat too soon or too late, the paint will bubble and look gross.

If you are doing multi tone, you'll need a good low tack automotive masking tape for masking areas off after priming. It can be tricky to get it lined up right.

Know this, any paint job that you do with a rattlecan will not look as good as a professional job. You are limited in the type of paint you can use, and a spray can can't match the uniformity of a spray gun. Sometimes you can do your own paint job, omitting the clear coat, and have a body shop put a compatible clear coat over the top, which is less expensive than a whole paint job, and will look nicer than a clearcoat you can do yourself.

I've painted parts of my SR, but it is slow hard work if you want it to look good, and while it looks nice, it is obviously not a professional job.

So anyway, go ahead and do it if you want, but be aware that you'll have to be very careful, and you'll never match the quality of the original paint job on your own. It will inevitably look 'rattlecanned' which isn't necessarily a bad thing, depending on the look you are going after. If your bodywork is torn up already, then any paintjob at all will probably be an improvement.

peace,
sam

jaguar65
02-27-2004, 08:47 PM
yeh, the body work is pretty nasty in some places, although where undamaged, it is very nice.
I had planned to paint a single solid colour, either yellow (as per the yellow ditech) or metallic orange, but I have been told by my friends to avoid metallic orange at all costs. While it is true that the bike is mine and not theirs, I was never totally sure on an orange ditech. Yellow looks pretty nice though and at present it is red, which matches my jacket, but this is not the main concern I suppose.

Had planned to use plasti-kote, wide range of colours, reliable brand, compatibility with the clear coats, and a wide selection of styles to choose from,

TiminIndy
02-27-2004, 10:01 PM
Maybe you can get some ideas by looking at this photo gallery:

http://www.aprilialand.com/nuke/html/modules.php?name=News&new_topic=3

jaguar65
03-07-2004, 10:03 AM
started sanding the paintwork off my scoot yesterday and believe me its slow work. Using a delta sander with special 3M paint removing paper, but its so depressively slow. Also, I seem to be sanding down below the original undercoat in some places, as the bodywork goes red>white>grey but as the powder then covered the grey I thought I hadn't gotten very far, till i took methylated spirits to it and realised that it had been sanded perhaps a little too much. Got about have the rear fairing done yesterday, but really its so slow and the paint just refuses to budge in some places...anyone suggest anything?