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justo316
01-27-2004, 11:01 AM
Well, tomorrow is the second big day for me (the first being the day I got my scooter). I have my impact wrench and am going to try install my 6.5g weights and yellow spring.

Does anyone have any last minute tips for me?

Is it ok to put half 6.5g weights and the other half stock weights? I was just wondering cos I think I may have got the weights too light.

I only have a stock scoot, and it hasn't had the software remap YET. According to my speedo I go about 88km/h at most. Acceleration could be better. Up hills (not stupidly steep), I can hold about 60km/h.

NATO-ohjus
01-27-2004, 12:28 PM
No, no, no. You cannot have 6,5gr rolls and yellow spring at the same time. If you put a tighter spring, you also need heavier rolls. Im not sure if the yellow spring is tighter than stock one but I do have a white spring and it aint so tight as stock so Im using 6,6gr rolls right now. Soon I will buy that yellow and also red spring and try them with ~8gr rolls.

justo316
01-27-2004, 12:46 PM
That's kinda what I figured. However, I still wanted to experiment to see what the real world effects are. The stock weights are 7.7g aren't they? Well, I don't think my acceleration is fantastic, so I might try dropping the weights down first.

But is it ok to mix different weights?

NATO-ohjus
01-27-2004, 01:39 PM
Yeah,stock weights are 7,7gr and you can mix rollers. Of course you have to put like 3*6gr and 3*7grs.

phidauex
01-28-2004, 01:07 AM
Here is my advice, just change one thing at a time.

Change the rollers, then put it together and test drive, then change the spring, then test drive, etc. That way you know what each change is doing. Easier to find problems that way too.

You can mix rollers, but try to alternate them in the variator, so you have 6g, 7g, 6g, 7g, 6g, 7g in, instead of having all the stock rollers bunched together and the new rollers bunched together.

Good luck.

peace,
sam

justo316
01-28-2004, 01:26 AM
Well, not as much impact as I would have liked.

First, I changed the weights to all 6.5g. Little bit more acceleration, but only on takeoff. Lost a fair bit of top end, although that could have been the increased wind that started up. Felt lazy trying to get it up to 70km/h.

Next, I replaced the stock weights and changed the contra spring to a Malossi yellow one. Gave me more acceleration than the weights. Gives more acceleration throughout the 0-60km/h range. Initial testing suggests I may have lost about 10km/h off my top end, which I'm not happy with. I was struggling to get over 70.

I'm contemplating putting all back to stock....but I'll give it a few days over some familiar roads before I do that.

ps. doing all this was a bit harder than I expected....

NATO-ohjus
01-28-2004, 12:15 PM
justo316, you should get a new exhaust for more power to higher rpms.

justo316
01-28-2004, 12:54 PM
NATO-ohjus - That's precisely what I am looking into.

I heard my 6.5g weights should work well with the Leo Vince ZX pipe. Not sure what effect the yellow spring will have though.

I really need to get the software re map first though.

NATO-ohjus
01-28-2004, 01:23 PM
Jeah, zx works fine with 6,5 gram rolls but if you put the yellow spring on, it might work with stock rolls.

Haribolman
01-28-2004, 03:10 PM
justo316,

the lack of any worthwhile improvement does not surprise me.

I like to tinker with my vehicles to increase performance, but after reading many posts here I came to the conclusion it wasn't worth the time, energy and money for the very little, if any at all gain. It appears that Aprilia set up the SR50 quite well in the first place, and I'm happy to leave mine the way it is knowing that it goes very well for a 50cc!

The other problem with modifying the clutch in Australia is a) parts availability, b) cost and c) (and this applies to anywhere, not just Australia) what happens every 4000kms at the service when they either a) replace your rollers with stock ones, despite telling them not to, or b) you need to have warranty work done and your 2 year warranty is now void because of your modifications.

To me it's just not worth the hassle. I'd maybe consider a 70cc upgrade and a gear-up kit, but once again the costs are too high in Australia. And if you broke a piston ring, how long would it take to get another one?

BTW, how much were your parts and where did you get them from?

justo316
01-28-2004, 09:49 PM
Haribolman - The parts were from the AF1 online shop. Didn't really cost much. I would have expected to pay much more if I could get the parts locally.

scootnfast
01-28-2004, 10:32 PM
Well I have to say to Heirbolman:
I came to the conclusion it wasn't worth the time, energy and money for the very little, if any at all gain. It appears that Aprilia set up the SR50 quite well in the first place, and I'm happy to leave mine the way it is knowing that it goes very well for a 50cc!

I totally disagree with you man... My ditech stock only went a max of 45MPH... Now my scoot goes Max of 72MPH!!! That is a huge increase in performance!

and Justo316: The lighter the roller weight, the faster your rpms will crank up. But in order to counter act that, you have to go to a lighter spring. The yellow spring is a bit heavier than the stock spring. Try the stock spring with the lighter weights. You may even want to go to a white one down the road. I am currently running 6 gram weights with a white spring.

justo316
01-28-2004, 10:40 PM
scootnfast - I tried the stock spring with the lighter weights first and it really didn't feel like it did anything positive at all. Now all I have is the yellow spring on with the stock weights and it feels better. I can only describe it as more "fun". While I doubt there is much performance improvement, in fact top speed has dropped a bit, it does feels "punchier".

I don't want to go to a lighter spring for fear that I will lose the torque to accelerate out of a corner.

ditechspain
01-28-2004, 11:31 PM
i rather feel the way harboliman feels. If I have a few months when i don't need to use the scooter, and I have some money I won't miss, I might follow Joe Rubido's example (see previous posts from JRTURBO for pluses and minuses) and upgrade the variator (especially when it needs replacing anyway) and the final drive gear just to drop the revs on long distrance touring a little.

however I get the feeling from reading the mags etc that even if you can get higher top speed by changing the exhaust you probably loose all of that in slower aceleration because the motor does not work as well low down. On balance it looks like the standard set up probably gets you around the quickest even if some others can get a hgher top speed. If I can get a replacement stainless exhaust for reasonable money, I will replace non-standard but otherwise I think I will end up with another Apilia standard part.

For a 50 cc machine i think it works pretty damn well, especially considering I weigh damn near 100 kilo, and I cannot really believe the economy. Apart from the lights, i can live with the speedo, but I would like a beeper to remind me to turn off the indicators. At first I thought I had a bent or uneven front disc because the lever seemed to pump when I applied front brake, but after a change of brake pads at the front at 9K kms, that has changed completely and it feels fine. but why does it squeak so much??

Haribolman
01-28-2004, 11:45 PM
To ditechspain,

I've been messing around with the idea of adding a "beeper" to the blinker because I've been caught out a few times riding merrily away for ages with the blinker on. The Honda bikes that Australia Post use have what must be the loudest "beeper" known to man. I swear you can hear them from streets away!

For some reason scootnfast was able to get an enormous performance gain, but justo316 has just proven what I was saying. Any gain he is getting is at the detriment to another part of the performance.

Even with a 70cc kit and a gear up kit, there have been people here (Mr Mow comes to mind) who have found the performance increase is disappointingly small. And I've read both posts here and various magazines that say that the standard exhaust is quite efficient and can only be slightly improved upon, and this is the same with the clutch.

But hey, if people want to muck around, let them. It's their bike, their money, their time. I'm very happy with mine now. Good performance, great economy and it looks very smart. It's hard to ask for more!

ditechspain
01-29-2004, 12:06 AM
Harboliman, Jebediah may not like this, but I think you speak sense.

One of the spanish mags took the Piagggio Peugeot and one of the italian engines everyone uses and tested all three all with a whole series of exhausts, about 10 each, which included the s shape of the ditech and the straight exhaust some of the cooking engines use.

I spent hours trying to make sense of the results

The standard exhausts, especially the boring straight exhausts, were all givng very good results at normal revs and aceleration from 0 km/hr

From a standing start the quick exhausts were slower off the line and it took them getting on for 1 ikm or after to pass the standard .

The only exceptions seemed to have the clutch and weights tuned to give way more revs.

my conclusion was that if you want mid range/mid revs grunt without screaming revs off the line or from the lights, stick to the standrd exhaust. If you spend your time on a dual carriageway at max revs than a sport exhaust may eb marginaloly quicker..

The other depressing thing was that different brands did better with certain engines and it seemed to be pot luck whether a particular exhaust manufacturer did well with a a particular engine. in other words, manufacturer A might be the fastest with Motor 1, but could be bottom of the pile with the same name exhaust with motor 2.

It doesn't help that everyone, police and riders, believe that the loudest machine must have been going quickest.
+

scootnfast
01-29-2004, 12:13 PM
Well I have tweaked my scoot quite a bit. I do have a 70cc kit, different final drive gears and a new clutch and variator. But I have excellent acceleration and a great top speed. I can beat most stock 125cc scooters now. I know upgrading is expensive, but what I have in my scooter and performance parts, I still spent less than what a 125cc scooter costs, and I have better performance. Not to mention the sr-50 is so bad ass looking. If they had a 125cc scooter that looked as good as the sr50 does, I probably would have bought it and modified that.

And to make a note, if your scooter is tweaked right, you WILL NOT LOOSE performance in one area while gaining in another. That is what the variator is for. If you get your scooter to rev at the right RPM, (8000-9000RPM is when most scooters generate their maximum horsepower the "sweet spot"), and you have a smooth acceleration while maintaining that "sweet spot" RPM, you will have excellent acceleration, and you will have a great top end.

Finding this balance is KEY to great all around performance. This is only done by trial and error. I have a red, yellow, and white contra spring, and I have abut 20 different sets of roller weights to tweak my scooter. I have changed my weights and springs probably over 100 times to get it exactly where I like it. Also changing the engaging time of the clutch (Adjusting the clutch springs) plays a key roll in this also.

Listening to you guys say that there are no gains in perfomance by modifying is just wrong. You can't take a stock bike and only change the spring and weights and expect to see a large improvement.

Justo316, I think you mention that you don't even have your computer re-programmed. Well you REALLY won't see much of a change in anything you do if the mapping isn't changed. The mapping is restricting the RPS and the fuel flow through your injectors. You have to remove these restrictions to see any performance gains.

When I first got my scooter, I was amazed at the difference in performance just by changing the exhaust, weights and contra spring. Just by doing that, I increased my top end by about 8 MPH and had MUCH better accleration.

justo316
01-29-2004, 12:41 PM
scootnfast - Those are encouraging words. Just to clarify, I, personally, am not doubting the "tweaking" process. I like playing around with things and getting the most out of what I have. I don't have much idea of what I am doing with scooters, but I'm learning the hard way....through time, a bit of money, and sore hands from tighening/untightening stuff.

Haribolman
01-29-2004, 02:36 PM
scootnast, what you say makes sense.

justo316 needs a remap to get any benefit. But no wonder you got such a performance increase...I don't think you mentioned in your previous post that you'd upgraded to 70cc and a gear up kit. I was under the impression that you were only talking about clutch/exhasut modifications when saying your bike went from 48mph to 73mph. But now I think about it, we've all read your very good posts on the 70cc kit, etc, so of course you've done that!!

Does anyone else here think it's a problem to do all this work and run the risk of some dumb-ass mechanic throwing away your carefully selected parts at the nect service. What do all you guys with modifications do when you get your bikes serviced?

scootnfast
01-29-2004, 09:46 PM
Service your own bike, that is what the forums are for! Why pay money to have someone else do what you can do yourself? If you have a problem, just post a question. There are plenty of talented people who are part of this forum that will be more than willing to help.

justo316
01-29-2004, 10:59 PM
I definately want to learn how to service my own bike. The only reason Im taking it to the mechanic is because I don't know what Im doing yet, and it is its first service. Dunno what they'll actually do, but I'd assume they'd check more than what I would know.

Maybe someone needs to do a step-by-step guide to servicing a bike?

I was always just gonna follow the list of things to do in the manual. For the ones that supposedly only the dealer should do, I was gonna do some research and find out how to do each and every step myself.

ditechspain
01-30-2004, 03:11 AM
I'm not surewhat warranty Aprilia US give, but in Europe it's 2 years parts and labour, subject to a table of when Aprilia think certain components will wear out. However that is conditional on it being serviced by a dealer and the service book pages seem to be collected by Aprilia.

Don't get it serviced by a dealer and you save the service costs but throw away the warranty.

So far including the 8k KM service I have paid out 86 or US$86 to $100 depending on the exchange rate.

That includes 12 for derestricting and the costs of fitting and supplying a new rear tyre (puncture) and new front brake pads. Ignoring the tyre and derestriction, that's less than 40.

When it was delivered, the front brake lever pumped slightly when operated and the only logical explanation I could come up with (and still the only one I can actually understand) was that the disc varied in thickness.

The dealer changed the pads at 8k KM and problem gone. BTW if anyone can explain this to me I woud be grateful.

Average time delivery to collection less than 2 hours.

When the warranty has gone, I'll start servicing myself, certainly for the intermediate services, but until then, as a new comer to scooters, I'd rather have the warranty. By the time it expires, this machine will probably have at least 20K kms on it and possibly over 30k KMs.

TiminIndy
01-31-2004, 11:27 AM
I thought I had my mind made up, but now I'm not sure which mods I want to do. I've got an `01 Ditech, presumably with re-map--I can go 50+ mph now. I planned to get a new pipe (was leaning to Leo Vince 'S'), lighter rollers, and possibly a different spring. I assume I have stock rollers, spring, etc.. now.

I would like to get a little better acceleration AND top end--is this possible? (I don't want to do the 70cc kit, but I'm open to switching variator/clutch, etc...

Any suggestions?

scootnfast
01-31-2004, 09:49 PM
A new exhaust, roller weights, and contra spring will give you the most bang for your buck. The leo pipe is a really good pipe to go with.

TiminIndy
02-01-2004, 12:22 PM
thanks scootnfast!

Is the Leo 'S' the one to go with? (I heard it is not as loud, which I like, but is it best for performance?)

Let's make sure I have this straight--If I go with 6.5 or 7 rollers, should I get the white spring?

(Also, I thought I had read that the stock rollers were ~ 11g??)

ditechspain
02-01-2004, 01:14 PM
when i made my last post i wasn't really thinking about, or including, the 70 cc kit. it really makes it a different engine and i envy you in running one..

However I would stick by my previous point about the exhaust and related changes to the standard motor. In the mag test the three motors were each tested with about 10 exhausts and the variator weights and clutch springs were changed as the manufacturer suggested.

They were tested over initial aceleration, and over 1000 metres-

Most of the time top speed improved at the result of lower range acceleration. Where it didn't, it seemed to be explained by stronger clutch springs and the motor being further up the rev range when the clutch bit.

I was trying to see what exhausts seemed to provide mid range grunt at reasonable revs. The standard exhausts seemed to be pretty good for this, and the short exhausts without the swan neck bend surprisingly seemed to be better than the racier looking ones, even from teh same manufacturer.

i accept that the message from many posts seems to be that many motors seem to need individually setting up with variator weights and clutch springs in order to get the best from them. Possibly you could improve on the mag tests by doing that, but it seems to me that whatever time you save from the performance gain probably won't equal the time you spent achieving it

TiminIndy
02-01-2004, 01:22 PM
I'm confused.

I trust your opinion scootnfast:

Which exhaust?

Which rollers?

Which contra spring?

scootnfast
02-01-2004, 10:06 PM
I myself have a gianelli exhaust. But I wish I had bought the leo-ZX pipe instead. As far as the performance goes, Micah dyno'ed an sr-50 (De-restricted) with stock pipe and 7g rollers. The sr-50 with a stock pipe put out 4.5BHP... Then they changed the exhaust ONLY, and dyno'ed it again. The scooter was putting out 6.1BHP! That is almost a 30% increase in horsepower with only changing the exhaust!!!!

See The results in this thread here:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7222

So those saying that it doesn't increase performance are just flat out wrong. :bitchslap I don't care what people are reading in magazines. :crowbar: This was a test performed in a garage with the same scooter that you and I own. And I can tell you first hand that I really noticed a large performance increase after I changed my pipe, rollers, and contra spring. I had much better acceleration, and a little more top end. I didn't see a huge improvement in top end, but there was an increase.... If I remember right, it was about a 5MPH increase. But the largest increase was in my acceleration!!! It fired off the line and ran up to top speed in a hurry! I considered it money well spent! :happy:

TiminIndy
02-01-2004, 10:19 PM
ok, so now I want Leo ZX, and I gather 6.5 g rollers and a white spring??????

Next question: Do I need to have it re-mapped or programmed after that?

scootnfast
02-01-2004, 10:23 PM
Ditechspain -


I understand what you are saying, but you have to understand that these are 2 stroke engines. They are made to rev high. And with most 2-stroke engines, they only generate their greatest HP at high rpms. 2 stroke engines don't develope much torque at all. So the only way to get power out of them is to rev them high and gear them down. Finding a pipe that is going to deliver your "grunt" at mid range RPM's isn't going to happen. You have to rev a 2-stroke engine up to achieve your maximum HP.

This is where tweaking your rollers, contra spring, and clutch comes in. You want the engine to rev high, and slowly engage the cluth at higher revs, then have the variator gradually climb into a higher gear ratio while maintaining those high rpm's. Optimal performance should be when the engine revs high, and accelerates very fast to about 25MPH, then the rpms should drop and slowly climb back up until you reach your top end. The 0-25MPH range you are solely relying on your clutch for your acceleration. When the rpm's drop is when the variator kicks in and starts to move into a higher gear ratio. The rpms should climb as the variator keeps moving to its highest ratio. When the engines rpm's are maked out, your variator should be at its highest ratio and you should be at your top end in speed at the same time.

scootnfast
02-01-2004, 10:32 PM
ok, so now I want Leo ZX, and I gather 6.5 g rollers and a white spring??????

Well I really can't tell you exactly what weights or rollers you should get. That will vary on your scoot and your weight, and the type of area you live in. Optimal performance will only be achieved through trial and error. 6.5g weights is a good place to start. You might want to get 1 of each colored springs though. I would actually advise getting a set of 6.0g, 6.5g, and 7.0g weights also. That way you can interchange them to get essentially 5 sets of weights. (3 X 6.0 and 3 X 5.6g weights is equivallent to 6.25g weights)(3 X 6.5g and 3 X 7.0g weights is equivallent to 6.75g weights)

With these weights and three different springs to interchange, you should be able to tweak your scoot just how you want it. But if you don't want to spend the money, Just purchase the 6.5g weights, put them in and see how it runs with the stock spring. After that, get the spring that you think is going to help you with performance. Check out my variators for dummies posting to see which way you might need to go.

scootnfast
02-01-2004, 10:34 PM
Here is a link to the variator, roller weight and contra spring guide:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=8960

TiminIndy
02-01-2004, 10:58 PM
thanks scootnfast! (although I didn't understand most of it!!)

I think you assume I know a lot about this stuff. I don't. I trust your judgement. I'm not sure, but I THINK you have recommended a Leo ZX, 6.5 g rollers, and a white spring. (Did you???)

I saw a post somewhere saying something about setting it to a certain RPM when using lighter rollers. So I simply asked: Will I need to have my scoot re-programmed or anything after doing this???

TiminIndy
02-01-2004, 11:21 PM
I spoke too soon--the roller/variator/contra guide is very informative--even for the layman. I'm the type of guy that is more apt to screw things up if I keep taking it apart and putting it back together. I may need to try though, or this could get expensive having the shop doing my trial and error.

scootnfast
02-02-2004, 02:34 PM
timinindy OK, and to answer your question:


Do I need to have it re-mapped or programmed after that?

By all means YES! You should have your scoot re-mapped by your dealer asap. Also you should remove the washer from your variator asap. These restrictions greatly retard the performance of your scooter! If you are unsure on how to remove the washer, click here to see my de-restricting posts:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8617

The de-restriction was done on a mojito, but the same procedure applies to the ditech as far as the washer in the variator goes.

Hope this helps!

TiminIndy
02-02-2004, 08:59 PM
As always, you are very helpful!

I assume my Ditech has already been re-mapped once since it will do 50+ mph. The guy I bought it from didn't know. Not sure if the variator ring was removed either, but that should be easy enough to check when switching rollers. My question is, after the new pipe, rollers, and possibly contra spring, does it need to be re-mapped again, or are any other adjustments to the engine needed to get the RPM's I need??

When I bought this thing last fall, it had 400 miles on it. Now it has 1800. So you can see, I ride it often. I had the tranny oil changed when they put my new Conti Zippy 1's on at 1200 mi. The owner's manual doesn't call for much else except inspection type stuff, but is there any other maintenance items you would recommend while I'm doing all this?

(I bought a platinum spark plug--haven't put it in yet; and I think I may need a new battery--when it stays out in the cold all day, it doesn't want to start--even when fully charged. I've had to bring it inside my office to warm up a few times!! I buy good 93 gas and use Stabil.)

scootnfast
02-02-2004, 09:48 PM
No, you don't have to re-map again. There is a restriction on how high your engine can rev and also a restriction on your fuel injectors as far as how much gas is injected. Once they are removed, they will run up to par with the new exhaust and weights.

Basically changing your tranny oil is the only maintenance that needs to be done. But if you notice a decrease in performance, you may need to change your rollers again as the do tend to wear flat spots on them after a while. Also your drive belt can wear also. But that takes a few thousand miles usually.

Changing your tranny oil is easy to do. If you look at my postings on how to change your rear-end gears, you can see how to change the tranny oil. There is simply a bolt under the plastic cover that you take off to get to the variator. The bolt is toward the rear of the transmission right behind your clutch. there is a bolt at the bottom, and one just above it. The bottom bolt is a drain plug, and the top one is your fill.

If you are running a stock 50cc motor, you don't need to run high test gas either. The stock 50cc motors don't generate enough compression to warrant the high octain. In some cases it can actually decrease your performance. You really only need to run the high octane gas if you have a big bore kit that generates more compression. I usually only used 89-90 octane when I still had the 50cc motor and it ran great. When I changed my cylinder out, then I switched to the higher octane.

LuvMySR
06-11-2008, 06:08 PM
I am really glad someone posted this, I have a ton of questions but fear being referred to the DIY section or snide remarks.

The people on this forum are truly great !

JLF
07-11-2008, 01:16 AM
Thanks for the Knowledge!!!

Great thread... now saved to my favorites.

After I pick up an impact tomorrow, I'll know if the dealer really did derestrict my SR like they said, or not!

MisterSprinkles
07-11-2008, 01:19 AM
Thanks for the Knowledge!!!

Great thread... now saved to my favorites.

After I pick up an impact tomorrow, I'll know if the dealer really did derestrict my SR like they said, or not!

Impact gently

JLF
07-11-2008, 01:32 AM
Really?

Ok... Will do.

Thanks for the tip.

Jeracan
04-29-2010, 03:12 PM
will adding lighter roller weights fix my dead accelerate zone? When driving around 30-35 mph its almoust that the engine doesnt respond so well, giving alot more throttle is needed to get the speed up. Have a new SR 50 street with LeoVince ZX

mojomark
04-30-2010, 06:55 AM
Just installed a LV ZX on a 2009. ECU was remapped and restrictor plate was removed previously.

Contrary to what I thought I understood from this site, I did not see any meaningful increases. The WOT and max RPMs increased from a little over 8k to a bit under 9k and the top speed may have increased somewhat. (such a small top end increase, hard to quantify) The scoot seems to pull a little stronger en route to top speed.

I am planning to replace the stock 5.5g weights, remove the stock variator restrictor washer, and change clutch springs and contra spring. I have weights ranging from 4g to 6g in .5 increments, an assortment of clutch springs, and purple, blue, and green contra springs.

The 64,000 question is what combination? I realize that it unlikely I will hit the optimal combination the first time, but I sure would like to get as close as possible based on the experience of others.

I am about 200 pounds, drive in a relatively flat area, and am more interested in strong "pickup" and acceleration off the line than top speed. A top end of 50 MPH is plenty (only a couple of roads nearby where that speed is even possible for more than a few minutes)

Based on what I think I understand, I am leaning toward 5g weights, red clutch springs, and blue contra spring, but I eagerly welcome suggestions! Thanks in advance!

Grenadiers
04-30-2010, 10:05 AM
Just installed a LV ZX on a 2009. ECU was remapped and restrictor plate was removed previously.

Contrary to what I thought I understood from this site, I did not see any meaningful increases. The WOT and max RPMs increased from a little over 8k to a bit under 9k and the top speed may have increased somewhat. (such a small top end increase, hard to quantify) The scoot seems to pull a little stronger en route to top speed.

I am planning to replace the stock 5.5g weights, remove the stock variator restrictor washer, and change clutch springs and contra spring. I have weights ranging from 4g to 6g in .5 increments, an assortment of clutch springs, and purple, blue, and green contra springs.

The 64,000 question is what combination? I realize that it unlikely I will hit the optimal combination the first time, but I sure would like to get as close as possible based on the experience of others.

I am about 200 pounds, drive in a relatively flat area, and am more interested in strong "pickup" and acceleration off the line than top speed. A top end of 50 MPH is plenty (only a couple of roads nearby where that speed is even possible for more than a few minutes)

Based on what I think I understand, I am leaning toward 5g weights, red clutch springs, and blue contra spring, but I eagerly welcome suggestions! Thanks in advance!


Well, based on the fact that you still have the Restrictor Washer still installed on your scoot, you are still running "restricted" and wouldn't see a big leap in performance as the Variator would not be allowed to close the pulley halves all the way, thereby preventing your scooter from reaching its full potential.

Once you do remove that, you should see a jump in performance. As for which clutch springs to use, use the stiffest ones. And try out the Purple Contra spring with the 5.5 gram weights. Later you can try different combinations of Contra Springs and roller weights. Keep notes so that when you find what works the best, you can go back to that setting!

That, combined with removing the variator washer should give you a good starting point.

As I’ve said many times before, when it comes to “dialling in” your Variator, it is more about experimentation then a set “standard”. Based on what you have, you got a good starting point. Now you just need to fine tune things a bit more. That will mean pulling and replacing weights until you find what will give you the best balance between take-off speed and acceleration (top end). When testing out your setups, use the same route for all the tests and try to include areas that will give you a wide range of driving conditions (i.e. pulling from a start, climbing a hill/bridge, straight open road, etc). If possible, even the same weather conditions (temp and humidity wise).

Let us know how it all goes!!

:cheers:

mojomark
04-30-2010, 02:11 PM
Well, I put in the 5g rollers, and removed the washer. I did not add the torsion controller, change the clutchsprings, or the contrast spring for the simple reason that I couldn't get the darn nut off!

Oh well - it's better to change one thing at a time anyway (that's what I told myself as I put it back together anyway... :)

No doubt I have more pull with the 5g rollers and I think the top end is a little better, but it is too early to tell for sure. I did notice that it hooks up at higher RPMs, which I read is good for getting closer to the higher powerband from the ZX, but changes theway it performs in stop and go traffic.

Thanks for the insight and assisance!

Jeracan
05-01-2010, 05:25 PM
I have a issue with my new SR 50 street. Just resently installed a Leo Vince ZX on it. The variator restrictor is removed aswell. So hitting 60mph / 96 km/t is no problem at all. Really accelerate nice from 0 and up. But my issues is I 've got this 'deadzone' when I want a more smooth increase in speed. It's like the engine doest respond for a few seconds, and after given gas it'll accelerate again. I've tried replace my rollers down to 4.8g (stock, not sure what standard was, 7g?) But that almoust made the problem worse. All I want to accomplish is that I can start from 0, and accelerate normal without any deatspots and wierd behaviour. Maybe its getting too much gasoline? The store removed the variator restrictor, and adjusted the gasoline so I have really no idea what its getting atm. Any suggestions or tip is really apprecaited since I'm so completly new to this. Should I try replace the spring or try other rollers, I really have no idea to fix this. :(

taylormorby
08-19-2010, 06:49 PM
i have a 2002 sr 50 ditech
i have great acc beating most cars off the line but my top end is crap getting 45mph
i have arrow pipe and 4.5g rollers i think is there any think i can do to ake my top end faster