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the brit
10-17-2008, 10:32 AM
Facts and FAQs; please add when you find more!

Paperwork etc

The MSOs have "Not for Highway Use" on them.

There is a sticker on the frame explaining this also.

There is a 17 digit VIN.


Lights

Rear Brake Light Switch - Replaced by a bolt on USA models.
Switch part number is ap8124479.
Goes though the rear brake hose banjo fitting into top of rear master cylinder. Threaded hole is there, remove bolt and install switch.

Front Brake Light Switch - Missing on USA models.
Switch part number is ap8127305.
Threaded hole is there but empty.

City LightsPlease note!
The headlights have 'city light' holes, which do NOT have any bulb holders in them, so they are OPEN to the elements from the factory. A common trick on european cars in the USA with euro lights is to simply place some tape over the holes, or else water/dirt/bugs will get in and damage your headlights from the inside! The bulb holders appear to be simple push in types, with no twist etc. I have them coming from Europe for myself, but if anyone knows of a direct replacement from a USA bike please let me know!

Headlights and taillights are supplied.

Front and rear bulb holders are supplied, except above noted city lights.

Front light bulbs are supplied, except city lights as noted.

Turn Signals No turn signals are supplied.
Turn signals from the SXV etc fit.
Signals from AF1 (Note - left front is the same are right rear, and vise verse, you need one left and one right for the front/back): http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=3060


Mirrors
Mirror bases are supplied.
Mirrors, springs, bolts are not supplied.
Mirrors from ~'03 Milles fit. You need to make sure to get the spring etc.
Mirrors from AF1: http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=2190

Bodywork
No rear plate hanger is supplied. Therefore, no rear turnsignal mounting locations are supplied.

speedkelly
10-17-2008, 02:27 PM
I see your from Guildford.......I live in los angeles......but use to live in cranleigh....not far from guildford.....we even use to have an Aprilia dealer in the village for a while brought my first two aprilia's from there....a RS250...and then a 1999 rsv.
just thought I say hi......

the brit
10-17-2008, 02:57 PM
I see your from Guildford.......I live in los angeles......but use to live in cranleigh....not far from guildford.....we even use to have an Aprilia dealer in the village for a while brought my first two aprilia's from there....a RS250...and then a 1999 rsv.
just thought I say hi......


I know Cranleigh very well - I spent a bunch of my teenage years hanging out in Godalming, Cranleigh and anywhere else that my Kawasaki AR50 or the train would get me to..:banana:

HONDARACER
10-19-2008, 08:12 PM
LOW OIL STUCK ON

Mine would come on and go off for no apperant reason. I found the connectors where they join and were zip tied around the subframe were grounding out on the frame. The plastic sleeves over the connectors are too short and wernt instaled properly.

the brit
10-20-2008, 08:39 AM
>>Front Brake Light switch is missing, there's a threaded hole for it, but nothing in it.

I haven't found the rear brake light either.


Damn this bike takes a long time to warm up compared to my RS50..!

HONDARACER
10-20-2008, 02:54 PM
I got banjo bolts with switches integrated for less than $20.00 each. If your interested the pitch is 1.0mm [very fine thread].

I figure it has taken me 6 hours or more to wire turn signals, head and tail ights and horn. Its a ton of work, although rewarding. You get to go out and ride your track only bike on the street.

the brit
10-20-2008, 03:26 PM
I got banjo bolts with switches integrated for less than $20.00 each. If your interested the pitch is 1.0mm [very fine thread].

I figure it has taken me 6 hours or more to wire turn signals, head and tail ights and horn. Its a ton of work, although rewarding. You get to go out and ride your track only bike on the street.

Good thinking on the switches! The banjo fittings are M10x1.00. Looks like they fit a bunch of bikes, here's a company that's got them listed pretty cheap ($10, but $7 total shipping in the USA): http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-chassis.php?category_id=1.2



Do you have any wiring notes for the stock harness, or did you build your own for the lights? I got a Euro-2 diagram today, and have colour coded it on the computer and have it saved to print out covering four pages for ease of use. I can upload it if anyone would like it.

Noassmblyrqired
10-20-2008, 05:18 PM
Great work Jamie!

I should have a prototype Carbon Tail with intergral license plate hanger this weekend!

HONDARACER
10-20-2008, 06:29 PM
I wired the headlights with a relay and run it right off the battery. I trigger it with a green wire thats hot with the key on and is on a small white connector located near the carb. It doesnt hook up to anything, so I used a scotch lock to jumper the power to the relay. For the turn signals I made my own harness. For licence plate I just bent about half inch of the plate over and screwed it right up to the underside of the tailsection with 2 screws that are alreay there.

To mount the rear signals I simply drilled a small hole in a 5/8 worm gear hose clamp and screwed it up to and existing screw that holds the tailight in place. Then I just tightened the clamp around the shaft of the signal light. They kinds point upwards a bit, but with all the swooping lines on this bike, they kinda blend right in and look factory. I just need to paint the clamps black so they dont stick out like a sore thumb.

One more thing about the headlights, the bulbs they put in there are low beam only. I went to a junkyard and found some connectors that fit the bulbs. The yare from a driving light on a Dodoge car. The one part is backwards so I just cut it off and they stay in just fine by themselves. I upgraded the stock bulbs to high output with blue coating. I dont ever ride at night, but lately I have been riding a bit becasue its so late in the year. The blue low beams work real good. I wired a horn from my spare GSXR and mounted it on the plastic tray above the fron fender. I just took it off and drill 2 holes to mount the horn. The 2 screws that hold the tray on should be checked as mine were loose.

the brit
10-23-2008, 04:45 PM
Lights Wiring Continued

SOME OF THE WIRING MAY BE 'HIDDEN' within the black wrap on the USA harness, but there are no connectors

There are a no connectors on the wiring harness for a turn flasher.

There are no connectors on the wiring harness for turn signals (that I have found).

There are no connectors on the wiring harness for the headlights.

There are two empty connectors underneath the rear seat that can be seen by removing the front seat.

There are no more empty connectors underneath the mud guard/underseat area.

There is a small two pin connector spare, which has two black wires, on the brake side of the bike near the center of the frame, down near the carb/brake master cylinder area.

The left hand steering controls for lights/turn signals/horn have the wiring installed, which goes to a 9 pin connector which is stored near the battery. It does not connect to anything. It appears as though all of the wiring is there from the controls; there are no spare slots empty.

There is a no horn installed, and I did not see any connectors spare for it.


I have taken photos of everything, including the wiring connectors that are supplied spare on the bike. The wiring colours did not appear to match the factory diagram for the Euro '06 EU2 harness that I found online and coloured manually. Bummer. I'll post photos etc later if it matters.

HONDARACER
10-23-2008, 07:40 PM
The EMPTY connectors under the seat, the one with the black cap over it is for the DIAGNOSTIC PORT for the computer. I am going to investigate the other connector as I am wondering if it is a link to the cluster indicator lights for High beam and turn signals. At least I am hoping thats what they are for.

As far as all other wiring you need to make all your own. Its not really that difficult. I am running all the lights and horn from a single 30amp relay wired right to the battery + and triggered via the key.

Socket
10-26-2008, 03:28 PM
As far as all other wiring you need to make all your own. Its not really that difficult. I am running all the lights and horn from a single 30amp relay wired right to the battery + and triggered via the key.


A horn is not what I'm worried about, just was wondering about the amount of relays I'd need to setup. Good to see that a single 30amp will work fine.

Do you build your own fuse block also? what guage wire did you us? what wire off of the ignition did you use?

thanks! pics are always a plus!

Noassmblyrqired
10-26-2008, 09:11 PM
30A is a lot of power...Depending on what bulbs you put in the headlights you decide to use.

To clean things up a little, if you break up the headlights you could use two of these @ 15A with the integral fuse holder or try it with a 20A fuse. Haven't seen any of these with 30A rating.

http://www.puma-access.com/images/products/87108%20%2015a%20blue.jpg

http://www.puma-access.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=174

Allen Noland
11-07-2008, 03:38 PM
A horn is not what I'm worried about, just was wondering about the amount of relays I'd need to setup. Good to see that a single 30amp will work fine.

Do you build your own fuse block also? what guage wire did you us? what wire off of the ignition did you use?

thanks! pics are always a plus!

You can pull the power for the lights off of the 15amp fuse in the existing fuse block, that is where it comes from on the euro 3 harness and it is already switched by the key.

Allen Noland
11-07-2008, 03:40 PM
Here they are out of the owners manual:

1) 20A fuse
From the battery to the ignition switch,
voltage regulator, clock.
2) 15A fuse
From the ignition switch to all lights and
the horn, FP solenoid FP (FULL POWER),
RAVE FP starter (FULL POWER).
3) 7.5A fuse
From the ignition

the brit
11-07-2008, 05:19 PM
Here's the connector for the taillight bulb holder; it's from a mid-'90s Chevrolet, and is a engine connection near the intake manifold. I'm afraid I don't have a part number. It is a direct fit and does not need to be modified at all.

http://xjamiex.com/photos/apriliars125/DSC01258_tn.jpg