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HONDARACER
10-16-2008, 07:47 PM
I am being very cautious about breaking this motor in right. It seems to have great power in the mid range. I did let her wind up once to see what happened and it seemed to hit a rev limiter past 8000. Is this normal? Does it need any type of computer software or other derestricting? I am not planning to use full throttle power untill I get 1000kms, but I want to be ready when the time comes. I want this baby to rip.

adds_isard
10-18-2008, 04:08 AM
the euro ones have a restriction in the cdi\ecu that retards the spark at 6000-7000 rpm. you need to cut the back of the ecu and snap a bridge chip and that stops the retardation. it was all on the old forum but its gone all gone.

HONDARACER
10-18-2008, 08:33 PM
I have almost 500kms on mine now and it definatly doesnt want to rev over 9000RPM. Its hits a wall there, just like a governor on a diesel. If you upshift it starts making power again, right up to 9000, then it hits the wall again. I would like anyone else who has one if they have the same problem. I would like to take my wifes bike out and put some miles on it and see if it does the same thing.

HONDARACER
10-19-2008, 09:53 AM
I hooked up a LED to the RAVE solenoid and it comes on at around 8000RPM. The motor makes no changes at all. I read somewhere the thing was supposed to go nuts at that speed and mine sure doesnt. I even unhooked the solenoid and drove it and the Red warning light on the dash comes on, but the power is the same as with it hooked up.

I guess the valve needs adjusting, but its in a bear of a spot, so I will have to remove the battery and battery box to adjust it [or check it anyways]

HONDARACER
10-19-2008, 01:23 PM
So I removed the battery and tried adjusting the RAVE and still doesnt make any difference. Anyone else having this problem? The bike seems to have poor bottom end and no power valve. I have ridden 125 and 250 dirt bikes and you can definatly feel the powerband when the powervalves open. This thing doesnt do a thing. It seems to have tension on the spring so I am assuming the blade is actually hooked up. One thing I noticed is my other bike seemed to have better bottom end performance, I cant ride it at the moment becasue my wife is home and I dont want her to see me riding her bike. Also its bone stock has no insurance.

adds_isard
10-19-2008, 05:17 PM
okay im assuming that the us version is the same as the uk version engine and wiring wise?? there are loads of reasons why the bike could be not pulling properly. the engine in the 125 hasnt changed really since 98 so the guys over here sorted out all the ways to make them go faster. have you done a plug chop to test the mixture. it maybe that you are running to lean and need to adjust the air screw.
best thing to do is to make sure the pv unit is acually pluged in. over here dealers didnt plug them is so they could be sold to learners as 11bhp. then all we did was crank it up by plugging that baby in. also the blade will get clogged up quick. thats a big fault with the pv system used on the rs125. it maybe already stuck. if you remove the battery and box its just two allen bolts to take the rave out. just take your time. if once its unsrewed it dont want to come out then dont force it. that means its stuck with coked up shite from the cylinder. (it could of happened already as it doesnt take long) spray it with a penetrating oil (wd40) an try again. give it a good clean once its out. but like i said be gentle when pulling it out because if you snap the blade arm then that little spade falls into the cylinder and the only way to get it out is to remove the barrel. if that doenst work then go on to uk ebay and buy a modded ecu for rs125. dont do your own as if you fuck it i imagine that parts in the US are scarce.
the best thing you can do if you want a better derestricted ride is to get that 28mm carb off and get the 34mm carb on. the engine was designed to have the 34mm but because of learner laws in the eu they had the 28mm from 98-99. these bit can be bought from the uk ebay for pennies.

also the newer rs125s here have a air recuirulation system it should be the same for you guy with a catalystic convertor in the exspansion pipe of the exhaust. there are two ways to sort this. one ( the long way) remove the exhaust system. cut off the tube going to the airbox from the exhaust . and weld up the hole. then cut the exspansion chamber around the belly and cut out as much of the cat as possible then weld it back up. this restricts it big time.

or the easy way get online and buy a aftermarket sport exhaust system . your looking at anything from 100 to 300 pounds but the best ones are ginnelli or jim lomas.

we managed to get up 115mph some say 120mph on our rs125's. what are you guys currently getting?

HONDARACER
10-19-2008, 08:09 PM
I have 2 brand new bikes. I licenced one and am getting lights and turnsignals working. Also putting miles on it so I can open it up. I test rode the other bike and thought it had waaay better low and mid range. I even mentioned it to the guys where I bought the bikes but they said I needed to change the gearing.

Anyways I fired up my wifes bike tonight and warmed it up. Then took it down the road and holy shite batman, that sucker rips. Definatly something wrong with mine as hers reved to the moon and mine dont want to go over 9000.

I pulled the power valve on mine and cleaned and adjusted it, couldnt really see anything wrong and after getting it back together it didnt make any difference.

I tried her computer from her bike and its still the same. I am going to swap carbs next. [Tommorow] and see if thta fixes it.

Thanks for your input.

adds_isard
10-20-2008, 01:44 AM
you have a mix problem. test the plug. they are fickle, it only takes a 1/4 air screw turn out and the bike sucks.
when the make the bikes they are rarely set up properly at the factory. try putting a bigger main jet in the carb.

go to www.tjtuning.co.uk/forums

they will tell you what size to use. there is also a breaker of rs125's on there. trust me when i say get the a 34 mm carb put on. it will make loads of difference.

HONDARACER
10-20-2008, 12:03 PM
So I raised the needle 2 notches and that made it worse. It bogs down now at 8000RPM. Still had decent power, but wide open performance isnt there. I didnt check the plug.

I am thinking maybe the powervalve isnt seated all the way in the head, acting like its open all the time.

Brucetafer
10-20-2008, 02:15 PM
im sure you have a fouled plug, does it make a rev limiter sound? like it wants to rev over that or is it just a wall??? be careful messing with the carb, also what location are you in? elevation??

HONDARACER
10-20-2008, 02:51 PM
I checked the plug and its looking pretty lean. I am confused as to why it ran worse when I raised the needle.
I lowered it back to stock again and everything is back to normal.

I was surprised the plug has such a narrow gap. I am disappointed by the fact the bike didnt even come with a basic owners manual to give some specs like plug gap and type.

Also I am pissed with all the bullshite that surrounded these bikes. I was told so much crap, 99% of it all untrue. I am also disapionted with the overall quality of these bikes. FOr a bike thta was built for years, there seems to be a lot of quality issues that shouldnt be.

adds_isard
10-20-2008, 04:17 PM
on the right hand side of the carb (as you sit on the bike)
there is a little screw. screw it in and out to adjust the air mix.
what plug you got in there?there are 3 different plug sizes for the rs 125
br8 -resricted
br9-cat model
br10- full power

get the standard on out and get the iriduim plug br10 from ngk.

dont worry too much about messing about with the carb as long as they are small adjustment than it wont cause any problems. this bike is a pain in the arse but thats one of the reasons i bought one, so i would learn bike mechanics. if you stand the bike in neatral and rev is up to 7000rpm and put you head near the pv unit you should hear is click out.

they always bog down in low revs. you have you rev the twats out of then and ride the clutch all the time to pull off.


if you cash buy a 34mm carb and manifold and just swap it over. there is a dealer on the other website who sells rs125 parts and hes sure to have one.

Brucetafer
10-20-2008, 05:49 PM
good call, but whats your elevation?? that makes a difference...

HONDARACER
10-20-2008, 06:02 PM
The plug is a #10 Platimunum tip I believe. Definatly a #10 anyways.

Didnt see the screw on the carb. I will go look.

This has the electronic carb with throttle sensor and some type of temperature sensor in the middle of the left side of the carb. Unless its a richening valve and its not working?

Meed a workshop manual on the new version.

smokeskull@shaw.ca

HONDARACER
10-21-2008, 07:50 PM
Took the bike into the shop today to let the dealer look at it.

HONDARACER
10-22-2008, 05:55 PM
I put the plate onto my other bike and cannot believe the difference in power. When the engine hits 8000ish, even a very light throttle you can hear the power valve open and the exhasut changes pitch and sounds racey. I let her rip once and it easily reved to 12000 and pulkled like a little freight train. My other bike is real sick.

the brit
10-23-2008, 04:07 PM
Can you really feel the difference at 8k rpm on the 'good' bike?
I feel no difference below and above 8k with how the power's coming on.


The bike's also idleing at ~4k once warm and ridden, so i'll start with that issue first..

Micah / AF1 Racing
10-23-2008, 04:25 PM
On the sick bike, make sure the powervalve is actually moving, if it is stuck in the low rpm position behavior such as described will happen. If the thing was put together even slightly wrong in terms of the actuator then the actuator solenoid will move, powervalve will stay put.

You got yours in the recently imported batch to North America right? All of ours have been very linear from 6k to 10.5k rpm, see dyno graph posted yesterday.

Euro3 restricted catalyzed bikes have a hole in the timing curve at 5,500rpm to light off catalyzer by extreme ignition retard in that range.

the brit
10-23-2008, 04:38 PM
You got yours in the recently imported batch to North America right? All of ours have been very linear from 6k to 10.5k rpm, see dyno graph posted yesterday.

That confirms what i'm feeling basically.. Lots of power at 5-6k+, definately no 'kick' at 8k though.

Micah / AF1 Racing
10-23-2008, 04:45 PM
I personally think the delivery of power is the best and most linear I have ever felt on a 2 cycle engine straight out of the box period. Of course I want to feel a kick so stock will not last very long but hey, nice while it is there.

Important variables to consider when talking jetting, ambient temp, humidity and air pressure as well as feet/meters above sea level. Two strokes are very sensitive to this stuff.

HONDARACER
10-23-2008, 05:33 PM
Got it out of the shop today and they got it running waaay better. I saw the dyno sheet showing its 30+ peak HP now. All the power is in the midrange and doent have any HIT at 8000.

I really need to get some miles on the other bike, I really like the HIT it has. Honestly it feels like 40HP when it hits.

HONDARACER
10-23-2008, 06:59 PM
Rode the bad bike around some more and it has animal mid range, but weak over 8000.

I really wonder what the difference is between the 2 motors. Would be nice to see if anyone else has the HIT motor.

williamr
10-24-2008, 08:05 AM
the euro ones have a restriction in the cdi\ecu that retards the spark at 6000-7000 rpm. you need to cut the back of the ecu and snap a bridge chip and that stops the retardation. it was all on the old forum but its gone all gone.

I don't think this applies to the new CDIs - at least as far as the easy fix is concerned.

If it's weak over 8K, check that the PV is operating properly

Rob

frankd_nm
10-27-2008, 08:17 PM
Mine seems to be running pretty good throughout the range, but there are a couple of blips here and there.

1000-3000rpm = nothing but sputtering
3000-5000rpm = steady pull, but a little week (not on the pipe yet)
~6000rpm = a little bit of a sputter
7000-8000rpm = bike starts coming alive. revs fast and smooth.
8000-11000rpm = bike seems to get a bit of a kick at 8000. not a lot, but noticeable. really revs fast and free.

erea
10-28-2008, 08:12 PM
my bikes full power rs 125 has arrow exhaust 34ml carb on the way and that bridge wire in the ecu you was talking about has been done and theres power band in every gear it really pulls im just learning about geared bikes engine wise i can fully rebuild a automatic just wanna know the ins and outs of geared ive been told the previous owner done something to make the power band stay on all the time?

HONDARACER
11-01-2008, 09:02 PM
SO I swapped carbs today between my 2 bikes. There is definatly something wrong with the carb as I now have great power above 8000. I didnt take the good carb apart before installing it as in case it wasnt the problem, I didnt want to create any new ones. Now that I am 100% positive there is some type iof issue with the original carb, I will take to good one apart. I do know the bad carb has 175 main jet and a S40 pilot. According to Aprilia it should have a 180 and 45. Perhaps trhats all thats wrong. Also pulled the plug on the good runner and it was perfectly tan color and my plug was chalky white with a hint of brown. Dealership mechanic told me I didnt have enough miles [550kms] to properly read the plug.

Its really a sad situation in this world where no one wants to take any responsability for selling a defective product and I end up having to figure out the problem myself. Also makes you wonder about some peoples ability to diagnos a problem, even just a single cylinder. I cannot imagine how lost they would be if it had more than 1 piston.

Allen Noland
11-08-2008, 11:00 AM
SO I swapped carbs today between my 2 bikes. There is definatly something wrong with the carb as I now have great power above 8000. I didnt take the good carb apart before installing it as in case it wasnt the problem, I didnt want to create any new ones. Now that I am 100% positive there is some type iof issue with the original carb, I will take to good one apart. I do know the bad carb has 175 main jet and a S40 pilot. According to Aprilia it should have a 180 and 45. Perhaps trhats all thats wrong. Also pulled the plug on the good runner and it was perfectly tan color and my plug was chalky white with a hint of brown. Dealership mechanic told me I didnt have enough miles [550kms] to properly read the plug.

Its really a sad situation in this world where no one wants to take any responsability for selling a defective product and I end up having to figure out the problem myself. Also makes you wonder about some peoples ability to diagnos a problem, even just a single cylinder. I cannot imagine how lost they would be if it had more than 1 piston.

Have your dealer check the Throttle Position Sensor and the min/max TPS settings. These bikes have a TPS "self learn" feature that can be reset with the Axone.

spike916
11-08-2008, 12:00 PM
Hi Guys.........Sorry to hi-jack this thread but I am teaching a guy to ride an RS125 (2000 UK model). I think its only part de-restricted, Pulls thro to 11'000 does just over a ton but has the 28mm carb on. Only problem is it runs as rough as F**k below 3000 and struggles to tick over. If you use a bit of choke it cleans up a little. Is this a problem with the pilot jet/power valve or an air leak issue...... Could any of you guys tell me where's best to start please.......