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cetris
07-30-2008, 06:28 AM
I have a 2007 SR50 Ditech with 950 miles on it and appear to be having charging issues. I have an ECU code 09 which indicates a charging voltage problem. The battery appears fine (checked the electrolyte level) and is generally around 12V – 12.3V after it has been sitting for a while. When idling, the charge voltage is around 12.8V – 13.2V which seems OK. However, the manual says the charging voltage should be 13.5V +/- .3V at 3000 RPM but mine is up around 14.7V at that 3000 RPM and tends to hang up there even when the revs return down around idle speed. At engine speeds above that it varies- sometimes it stays at 14.7V - 14.8V and other times it is around 13.5V – 14.0V.

I have checked the main ground connection to the motor, checked the battery cable connections at the battery, removed and cleaned the voltage regulator and the connector on it, nothing seemed to make any difference. Basically, everything looks as clean and corrosion free as the day it left the factory. It may be a regulator problem, but I hate to buy one not knowing for sure, and the AF1 store does not list one for this scooter. Oh, and my warranty expired 2 weeks ago. Have any of you with 2005 – 2007 SR50 Ditechs noticed what your voltage is at various RPM’s?

Thanks in advance.

muchacho
07-30-2008, 07:05 AM
Read this (http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130176) and see if it helps... lets of info you might not need.

HONDARACER
07-30-2008, 07:59 AM
You should check for loose connections first. Bettery voltage [charging] is conjsidered normal if its anywhere between 13.0 and 14.9 volts. Its probably the battery itself that is dictating the system voltage. I would try and find out the code defintion and begin troubleshooting then. Usually certain parameters must be met to casue the code to appear. Such as system voltage above 15 V for more than 30 seconds or less than 13 volts for more than 2 minutes etc. Batterys can do some weird thing to charging systems if they are defective.

cetris
07-30-2008, 10:09 AM
I did look it up; it means Incorrect Charging Voltage, which is pretty generic. It could be caused by a lot of different things. I have checked all the connections I can find. The battery itself, the regulator, the main ground on the engine. Everything is clean, tight, and corrosion free. I even pulled some fues and checked them for corrosion and removed the regulator from the frame to make sure there was no corrosion behind it, but found nothing. The bike is clean as a pin and I don't think it has ever seen any rain.

I suspect the code is being set because the charging voltage is getting too high. I would not expect to see much more than 14.0V typically, but I am not sure. That is why I was asking if anyone else with this model year Ditech could give me some feedback on what kind of voltages they are seeing at various RPM- it is pretty easy to do with the built in volt meter.

My headlight low-beam burnt out last night too, which could be coincidental, or it could have been caused because the charging voltage is running close to 15V.

Thanks,

Chuck - Charlotte, NC


You should check for loose connections first. Bettery voltage [charging] is conjsidered normal if its anywhere between 13.0 and 14.9 volts. Its probably the battery itself that is dictating the system voltage. I would try and find out the code defintion and begin troubleshooting then. Usually certain parameters must be met to casue the code to appear. Such as system voltage above 15 V for more than 30 seconds or less than 13 volts for more than 2 minutes etc. Batterys can do some weird thing to charging systems if they are defective.

Ciudale
07-30-2008, 01:03 PM
This is exactly the prob I got on my 2001, and I never figured out why. Many other owners get these high voltage issues. I changed the regulator three times (plus a complete check of the wiring system, alternator, etc...) and I always get 14.5/15.2V range values. These high values are quite bad for the battery as a matter of fact, so I got to change the batt every 6 months, and its quite a fear to start the bike in winter... May be the Morini regulators are poorly conceived. This would be worth to try with a Piaggio regulator model, just to see if it changes something.

HONDARACER
07-30-2008, 01:30 PM
Key on engine off voltage is 12.6 volts. Engine running at idle on centerstand 14.4 volts. Wide open throttle about 14.8 volts. I get no errors in my puter.

HONDARACER
07-30-2008, 01:32 PM
I think you would need completely unregulated voltage to fry a headlight bulb. I suspect it would take 18 volts or more to burn it out. I would run a multimeter direct to the battery and verify voltages.

Ciudale
07-30-2008, 01:34 PM
I get ~14.56 at idle after start, then it grows as the engine warms, and will reach 15.3 at high RPMs (after a while).
Such over 14.5V values seems to be quite common, although dealer manual specifies 13.5V theorical... This remains very curious to me.

HONDARACER
07-30-2008, 01:35 PM
Perhaps a thurogh inspection of the wiring to the alternator and regulator. Perhaps a wire is shorting to ground intermitantly.

Ciudale
07-30-2008, 01:58 PM
This is quite possible, but this would mean a lot of bikes have a wire shorting somewhere !
I also noticed the rear stop lights where pulling out a lot of current... They are drastically reducing the cranking speed of the starter and reduce the idling RPMs when I push the brakes at stop. Did you Certis noticed such things ?

cetris
07-30-2008, 02:11 PM
Thanks for all the replies.

Ciudale - Yes, I did notice that when I applied the brakes that it pulled the voltage down quite a bit. I am surprised that you guys are all reporting similarly high voltages.....now I am not even sure that is my problem. I checked my dash volt meter against a Fluke digital multimeter attached at the battery terminals and they were with .1V across the range, so I am quite certain that the voltage I am seeing on my dash DVM is relatively correct.

I have a Kymco scooter too, so I may pull the battery out of it tonight and put it in the SR50 and give it a try, but I really haven't seen anything to indicate that there is a problem with the battery. It won't cost anything but my time, so I will give it a try. I am no sure what else to check at this point, and I am less confident that buying another voltage regulator will do anything based on the voltages you guys are seeing. Most bizarre.

Thanks for all the input.

Chuck- Charlotte, NC


This is quite possible, but this would mean a lot of bikes have a wire shorting somewhere !
I also noticed the rear stop lights where pulling out a lot of current... They are drastically reducing the cranking speed of the starter and reduce the idling RPMs when I push the brakes at stop. Did you Certis noticed such things ?

Ciudale
07-30-2008, 02:17 PM
12.3V after sitting a while is very low. You should get 12.7V at least...
High charging values are killing the batteries, and batteries are more than important on Ditechs. I really don't get it...

cetris
07-31-2008, 07:25 AM
I think I may have found the problem in my particular case. I tried swapping batteries first but it didn’t help- I still had ECU code 09 and the service light was still lit.

One of the few connections I had not yet checked was the plug on the ECU. I finally got my hands up through the frame rails and managed to get the wiring harness unplugged from the bottom of the ECU. When I got the plug down out of there where I could see it I noticed that one of the female pins on one of the wires was pushed out of the plastic connector, which meant it wasn’t fully engaging the mating male pin on the ECU. The wire and crimp-on female pin pulled right out of the plastic piece and the crimp-on female connector on the end of the wire was pretty mangled. My guess is that it was mucked up when it was assembled at the factory and it took this long for the vibration to make it work its way away from the ECU. I straightened it out and reassembled it good enough to at least try it and everything seems fine- no more error code, the service warning lights are out and it seems to run fine. I need some more time on it before I am 100% sure, but it appears to have been the problem.

My charging voltages are still what I consider on the high side of what is normal (14.2-ish volts at idle) but that is apparently normal on these things. I would suggest if any of you are having goofy electrical problems to take a look the ECU connectors if you haven’t already…if nothing else it will eliminate one more possibility.

Thanks for the help.

Chuck