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View Full Version : no more 5000-6800 rpm flat spot



996tturbo
12-19-2003, 08:59 PM
i was trying to get rid of the flat spot between 5000 to 6800 rpm so i decided to do the something i did with my RC51, that is to get rid off the front flapper valve in front of the snorkel. By removing the 7 or screws on the side of the snorkel n take off the flapper that is inside. It should come off when the snorkel is loose. You dont have have to disconnect the valve on the side of it, or none of the vacuum hoses. If u did u can order a new cover from dan kyle, this should give another 30 to 40 percent better airflow down low. I also have a bigger airbox kit which is another 30 percent bigger than the stock. But becarefull, it will rev so fast all the way to redline. AWSOME:rambo: :banana: The whole thing should take about 1/2 an hour. IT AN OLD RC 51 TRICK N IT WILL WORK. Just let me know what u guys think of the power now:peace:

Dvus
12-19-2003, 09:39 PM
How about a pic of this mod bro. Sounds like another affordable mod.

996tturbo
12-19-2003, 09:48 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
How about a pic of this mod bro. Sounds like another affordable mod. i didnt take any pic but its very easy, it will completely eliminate the flat spot

Dvus
12-19-2003, 10:29 PM
what all needs to be done. i don't know what the flapper valve is bro.

996tturbo
12-19-2003, 10:55 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
what all needs to be done. i don't know what the flapper valve is bro. if u look inside the snorkel u will see a flat plastic plate that flap open back n forth, u need to take it out n it will let the air in more i mean a lot more. u take the flapper out by removing the 7-8 screws on the side of the snorkel

clarkie49
12-19-2003, 11:19 PM
unfortuneatly is it not a RC51.

if you want to disconnect the flapper unplug/pull the hose off the valve on the right side of the duct and sick a bolt in it.

it will give you a little more below and above the dip but it will not get rid of the dip.

the dip is due to the stock cans.

you want to get rid of the dip get millemans cans, slip-ons or a full system.

the aprilia flap is to stop noise getting out during the emission testing

Thunder Factory
12-20-2003, 01:41 AM
Have to agree with Clarkie, cat free, map2, no dip and a big difference in power! :rambo:

Dvus
12-20-2003, 11:12 AM
So what will the flapper valve mod do to help the performance of the bike then?

ChicagoFactory
12-20-2003, 11:56 AM
996Turbo,

Do you still have the stock cans on, or aftermarkets? What kind of airbox do you have?

Mike

clarkie49
12-20-2003, 01:03 PM
Originally posted by Dvus
So what will the flapper valve mod do to help the performance of the bike then?


definitely - its kinda like installing the 00 intake boot on the 02-03 mille, the flapper is there for noise control but also impedes airflow at rpm below 6500 and throttle position below 30%

like i said it wont get rid of the dip but you and milleman already have something that does that :D

Dvus
12-20-2003, 01:54 PM
Originally posted by clarkie49
definitely - its kinda like installing the 00 intake boot on the 02-03 mille, the flapper is there for noise control but also impedes airflow at rpm below 6500 and throttle position below 30%

like i said it wont get rid of the dip but you and milleman already have something that does that :D Right on. We'll have to get this easy mod done to see if it improves throttle response at the lower RPMs it's not like the front end will come up around 3.5kRPMs already. :D Oh and for those that have the aftermarket or can mod definitely get that 2nd map done!:peace:

996tturbo
12-21-2003, 11:18 AM
Originally posted by clarkie49
unfortuneatly is it not a RC51.

if you want to disconnect the flapper unplug/pull the hose off the valve on the right side of the duct and sick a bolt in it.

it will give you a little more below and above the dip but it will not get rid of the dip.

the dip is due to the stock cans.

you want to get rid of the dip get millemans cans, slip-ons or a full system.

the aprilia flap is to stop noise getting out during the emission testing sorry guys forgot to tell u i have an exhaust also, but i didnt do the map2 yet. i wonder how does the dealer charge to do the switch over?

milleman
12-21-2003, 11:47 AM
20 bucks to switch it over!:cool:

996tturbo
12-21-2003, 05:36 PM
Originally posted by milleman
20 bucks to switch it over!:cool: european cycle wanted to charge me for one hour n 1/2 to do the map 2. Thats like $100. What part of the body work do i need to take off to make the job easier for them. thanx..:D

Thunder Factory
12-21-2003, 05:39 PM
Originally posted by 996tturbo
european cycle wanted to charge me for one hour n 1/2 to do the map 2. Thats like $100. What part of the body work do i need to take off to make the job easier for them. thanx..:D

The only bit of the bike that needs to be remioved is the seat and the rear cowl, and it's a 10 to 15 minute job maximum to switch.

Thing to rememebr is the dealers have to pay serious money for the Axone so they will be trying to re-coup their costs.:fangs:

Dvus
12-21-2003, 10:55 PM
it's actually the rear seat that needs to be removed and you can access the ecu connector right there. So if you remove the seat and ask them to hook up the axone it should be less than 5 min to do the job if the guy knows how to use the axone. Of course there's a foot note that if there's an error when first diagnosing the bike it's normal. Don't know why but that's what our Aprilia mechanic said.

996tturbo
12-22-2003, 12:01 AM
Originally posted by Dvus
it's actually the rear seat that needs to be removed and you can access the ecu connector right there. So if you remove the seat and ask them to hook up the axone it should be less than 5 min to do the job if the guy knows how to use the axone. Of course there's a foot note that if there's an error when first diagnosing the bike it's normal. Don't know why but that's what our Aprilia mechanic said. thank you very much guys for the imfo.......

dre62582
03-17-2005, 02:19 AM
Is there any difference between the 04' rsv and 04' rsv factory cans, because I just bought a 04' rsv factory and would like to gut the cans and see if it will get rid of that damn heat problem
andrae

amauri
03-17-2005, 10:27 AM
If your bike has a VIN# ZD4RR00004S003947 or lower, you must also lift the tank to re-synch the throttle bodies after loading the latest ECU software #664584.

amauri
03-17-2005, 10:34 AM
Of course there's a foot note that if there's an error when first diagnosing the bike it's normal. Don't know why but that's what our Aprilia mechanic said.

He's probably talking about the "beeping" noise from the AXONE while in the "injection" menu.
That is normal because while switching to Map-2 the engine must not be running, to turn the beeping off just push the "AUX1" button.

clarkie49
03-17-2005, 10:40 AM
Amauri - you know far too much about these bike, I am glad I am not the only Aprilia Geek out there :D

amauri
03-17-2005, 11:09 AM
Just like in the old days when we were in school, only the Geeks read all the books and did their homework.

When I grow up I want to be just like Clarkie :rolleyes:

ckruzel
03-17-2005, 10:48 PM
it might be alot, but from reading everything it will be worth it, higher prices usually mean covering overhead, that might be on the high side, but in reality if it makes the ride more enjoyable (plus looks like your not living check to check) go with it

dre62582
03-19-2005, 03:58 PM
If I had my can recored and end cap and cat free, plus PCIII(withmap) with a airbox, how much would you pay for something like that? Also stock cans are made of titanium right?
Just questions I would like to know, either buy a full system or have a buy recore my stock ones.
P.S. Im not going to race either, just street riding. :burnout:
Andrae

ckruzel
03-19-2005, 04:13 PM
get tigs or arrow pipes

RSVRider1
03-20-2005, 09:09 PM
unfortuneatly is it not a RC51.

if you want to disconnect the flapper unplug/pull the hose off the valve on the right side of the duct and sick a bolt in it.

it will give you a little more below and above the dip but it will not get rid of the dip.

the dip is due to the stock cans.

you want to get rid of the dip get millemans cans, slip-ons or a full system.

the aprilia flap is to stop noise getting out during the emission testing

OK, Here's the Dyno chart that had you all squaking! Flapper has been totally removed & intake smoothed, Aprilia Ti race cans, cylinder balance and PC III with custom map. STILL a dip! I assure anyone that the "dip" is ONLY noticable on paper. I highly recomend all these Mods, as this thing runs like a GP Bike!

dre62582
03-22-2005, 04:34 PM
what is the homer mod?
I thought it was just the Evo airbox kit
where do you get it at?
Andrae :confused:

RSVRider1
03-22-2005, 06:18 PM
PM him here on the forum. It's: Homer_Ewe. He makes the best airbox on the market and the only one that comes close, or excedes the quality of the rest of the parts on these beautiful machines. A little expensive, but these are not cheap bikes, so why skimp on parts. If not the Homer, go with Scott2ride's excellent Kiwi Mod, the next best thing!
Here's a photo of the Homer:

hakan_olsson
03-22-2005, 06:35 PM
OK, Here's the Dyno chart that.....

Maybe I asked before but I forgot. What's the blue line showing here? PC w general map or "map 2"? Same hardware on both, right?

scott2ride
03-22-2005, 06:48 PM
It is the before and afer curves. Blue line was before the PC3 map. Red After!

hakan_olsson
03-22-2005, 07:00 PM
OK. Thanks. Well done then. Not to many curves around showing the PC/custom map result.

RSVRider1
03-22-2005, 10:32 PM
Maybe I asked before but I forgot. What's the blue line showing here? PC w general map or "map 2"? Same hardware on both, right?

Scott's right. The blue line is pre-custom map. I gained over 10 RWHP!!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

RSVRider1
03-22-2005, 10:44 PM
A little better copy of the Dyno chart:

hakan_olsson
03-23-2005, 12:59 AM
Scott's right. The blue line is pre-custom map. I gained over 10 RWHP!!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

That probably makes you the winner in PC gain? If I remember right, you were quite satisfied with the map 2 to. Now, another 10 on that must be so sweet.

RSVRider1
03-23-2005, 09:59 AM
Yes, I went from having performance that was "tollerable" when I first bought the bike, to totally amazed. I'm really surprised Aprilia doesn't spend a little more time & effort on their mapping and electronics!

amauri
03-23-2005, 11:36 AM
I'm really surprised Aprilia doesn't spend a little more time & effort on their mapping and electronics!
They did, it's called ECU software version #664584.

I still believe that most of the bikes that have been switched to Map-2 are still using the old and defective 664582 software.

Unfortunately, many dealers don't understand the procedure to update the ECU before switching to Map-2.

fezzar
03-23-2005, 02:04 PM
Is there any benifit to switching to Map 2 on standard cans?

Fezzar

RSVRider1
03-23-2005, 03:12 PM
They did, it's called ECU software version #664584.
.

John, Clarkie, Or anyone, Would this be Map 2.0.5???
I was re-mapped to what was supposed to be the latest map when I had my cylinder balancing done last summer by John at Rollin Fast.
Is this a later release? Any Info would be appreciated.
Here's the Axone chart, is it on that? I don't think so?

scott2ride
03-23-2005, 04:11 PM
I C that your CO is OK CC (confused :D ). But it does not show which version of map 2 you have.

But it does not matter either, because you have a custom PC3 map added over the top. However even if you dont have the latest map 2 DONT change the map to a newer map 2, otherwise it will completely fuck up your bikes air fuel mapping.

Remember, the PC3 map adds or subtracts fuel to the existing base map. So if you change the base map, the subsequent changes that the PC3 initiates will not be correct.

If you get a PC3 and custom map done it does not matter which Map 2 version you have...just so long as you DO have a map 2. Because Map 2 is open loop and map 1 is not. Therefore the PC3 can work with the map2.

Make sence?

X-CBR MAN
04-16-2005, 06:59 PM
went to look at the flapper valve on mine to remove it and found the rod is'nt even hooked up to the flapper door so it is shut all the time :p:

ckruzel
04-16-2005, 11:40 PM
A little better copy of the Dyno chart:

thats not showing true hp

RSVRider1
04-17-2005, 09:15 AM
I don't understand Chris?
What IS "True Horsepower"?

hakan_olsson
04-17-2005, 09:45 AM
John, Clarkie, Or anyone, Would this be Map 2.0.5???

No. It says 2003 on the recipts. 2.0.5 wasn't released by then. :cathat:

For the "true hp", I think it's about avoiding the wheel mass loss calculation. You get closer to an actual power number delivered to the surface(road and a lower value). Compare a 125cc and a liter bike with very different wheel mass.

(Doesn't change the facts, in general, in this case though, I think)

ckruzel
04-17-2005, 09:52 AM
I don't understand Chris?
What IS "True Horsepower"?

wrong setting in the program, it shows a higher number, unless you have had some engine work, 134 is high with a air box and exhaust

RSVRider1
04-17-2005, 11:26 AM
(Doesn't change the facts, in general, in this case though, I think)

It was actually the 10+ RWHP & 7+ Torque gain is what really impressed me!
HP reading off, or not, the bike runs like a raped ape!

RSVRider1
04-17-2005, 11:31 AM
AND, How 'bout Douwek's claimed 21+ HP gain? http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52557&page=2&pp=15
I STILL find that a bit hard to swallow, but that's because I just spent the weekend with Clarkie!!! ;)

ckruzel
04-17-2005, 12:28 PM
i never really cared about the numbers, we all know when there are gains, the only reason i knew about the different settings on that software is they showed it to me when my last bike was dyno'd, after the run they showed me a few different hp numbers from the same run

RSVRider1
04-17-2005, 04:54 PM
Chris, Did Ferracci do yours?
I'm ready for another trip to the Dyno, and it's not that I'm at all dissatisfied with the job Ferach did, quite the contrary in fact, but I'd like to give someone else a shot. Especially if they can do the cylinders seperately!

danna
04-19-2005, 04:42 AM
PM him here on the forum. It's: Homer_Ewe. He makes the best airbox on the market and the only one that comes close, or excedes the quality of the rest of the parts on these beautiful machines. A little expensive, but these are not cheap bikes, so why skimp on parts. If not the Homer, go with Scott2ride's excellent Kiwi Mod, the next best thing!
Here's a photo of the Homer:

Tried pm'ing him it says homer_ewe not found. Anybody know of an email of his they could pm me i'd be very grateful.

homer_uwe
04-19-2005, 05:17 AM
Please look at www.ironbite.de

ckruzel
04-19-2005, 11:36 AM
Chris, Did Ferracci do yours?
I'm ready for another trip to the Dyno, and it's not that I'm at all dissatisfied with the job Ferach did, quite the contrary in fact, but I'd like to give someone else a shot. Especially if they can do the cylinders seperately!

warhorse, i'm close to them, i've heard ferracci gives the printouts with the higher numbers showing

RSVRider1
04-19-2005, 01:35 PM
The only numbers that REALLY matter, are the difference between the start and finish!