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jmarnell
12-25-2006, 06:09 PM
Originally Posted by kzmille

The oil must be checked with the engine fully up to operating temperature and the bike straight up. Don't check it on the side stand, the level will read low. The manuals say to check it after you stop the motor. This means immediately after stopping, not after waiting for a few or more minutes. When you stop the engine the hot oil begins draining from the tank back into the engine because the tank is higher. The engine must have been idling with the bike straight up when you stop it. Do not idle it on the side stand, stop it, and then put then bike upright and check the level. It will read low. Although the manuals say to check it with the engine stopped the most consistent readings can be achieved with the bike upright and the engine idling. The highest oil level that will show on the sight tube with the engine running is at idle. The oil level drops as the revs build to, and pass 4000 RPM. You will notice that the oil level does not change between idling and stopped. You can top it up so the level is at the full mark at idle.

Ideally you want the bike level front to back as well as side to side but I check it on the paddock stand which elevates the rear wheel a bit. This does make the level read 2 or 3 mm higher but knowing that you can adjust the level accordingly.

Some, including myself, have advocated setting the level so it reads at the full mark while holding the revs at about 4000 rpm. When done this way the oil level will be near the top of the sight tube at idle. There is very little to gain from the small amount of additional oil and you are much more likely to get oil in the airbox.

Get into the habit of checking and topping the oil at the end of each ride when the bike is fully up to operating temperature. Then you will know it is ready for the next ride. After setting the proper oil level if the temp drops to very cold temps the oil will not even be visible in the sight tube. Do not add oil because it will be overfilled when it is fully warmed up.

When changing the oil you need to know how much to put in after draining the tank, the drain in the engine case, and changing the filter. I put in three quarts and run the engine briefly till the oil light goes out and the oil level in the tank drops. Stop the engine and add the fourth quart (you cannot pour all four quarts in the tank with out running the engine or it will spill over). Now drive the bike for 10 miles or more and when you get home check the level and top it off. If you measure the oil you add you will know exactly how much over 4 quarts to fill with at the next change. Don't even bother looking at the sight tube if the engine is cold.
end quote:

Well, I followed the directions above and came to realize that changing the oil in an Aprilia is a PITA. Christ, how complicated can this system be!

One thing I wanted to point out with the above guide is, when you put the bike on its side stand, the reading in the site glass is not going to read "low" like kzmille states but will actually read "higher" than when you have the bike straight up. Mayber I'm doing this wrong but have looked at the sight glass numerous times and indeed, when on its side stand, the oil level rises above the "max" indicator but when I stand the bike straight up, it reads just below "max".

As for running the bike to temperature, I had the bike idle till the temp guage read 185 degrees and the fan kicked in. I also reved the engine periodically up to 4000 and then to 3000 and down to 2000 intermitently to mimic driving. I then checked the oil level while the bike was upright at idle and it read about a 1/4" - 1/2" below the "max" level. Is this sound right?

Also, since the "search" function on the forum is not working, can anyone direct me to proper instructions in changing the oil and filter.

amauri
12-25-2006, 08:06 PM
[I]changing the oil in an Aprilia is a PITA. Christ, how complicated can this system be!

You've got to be kidding!

Maybe you're trying too hard.
Just pull the two drain plugs, replace the filter, pour in 3.5 qts (after refitting the plugs) and take it for a short ride.
Check the sight gauge and add more to bring the level halfway between Min & Max.
Same as any other bike

No offence but if that's a PITA, you should consider letting the shop do it for you.

jmarnell
12-25-2006, 08:28 PM
I couldn't agree more Amauri, what you describe seems to make way more sense than what kzmille posted (no offense kz). I've been changing oil myself on ducati's and yamaha's for years and it's always been very straight forward.

Tonight I've already pulled both side panels, drained the oil, removed the oil filter and cleanded everything up in sight. I also checked the connectors above the coolant resovoir to make sure things looked good. I could not see any burned marks, discoloration or loose wires in any of the harness blocks (brown one and black ones). I've read posts regarding the meltdown of these connector blocks, especially the brown one. Any advice you can give me to make sure things stay that way? I've heard some people have sprayed or put some form of gel over these connectors... is this true?

Also, am I mistaken about another second oil filter (mechanical) that should also be removed and cleanded on the RSVR 1000's when you do oil service? If so, where would this item be located?

Thanks for the reply and for your help

jmarnell
12-25-2006, 08:31 PM
By the way Amauri, I stopped by your shop last week to visit you guys when I was in LA on business. Met your salesrep Johnny O. What a nice guy he was and what a great shop you guys have.

mike p
12-25-2006, 08:50 PM
I couldn't agree more Amauri, what you describe seems to make way more sense than what kzmille posted (no offense kz). I've been changing oil myself on ducati's and yamaha's for years and it's always been very straight forward.

Tonight I've already pulled both side panels, drained the oil, removed the oil filter and cleanded everything up in sight. I also checked the connectors above the coolant resovoir to make sure things looked good. I could not see any burned marks, discoloration or loose wires in any of the harness blocks (brown one and black ones). I've read posts regarding the meltdown of these connector blocks, especially the brown one. Any advice you can give me to make sure things stay that way? I've heard some people have sprayed or put some form of gel over these connectors... is this true?

Also, am I mistaken about another second oil filter (mechanical) that should also be removed and cleanded on the RSVR 1000's when you do oil service? If so, where would this item be located?

Thanks for the reply and for your help That other filter is more a screen than a filter. You know the hose that you probably dripped oil on to when you changed the oil filter, well the screen is at the forward end of the hose. It has a rather large size nut on it 20+mm I beleive. When you remove it you will have to replace that clamp with a new click type so the manual says, But I used a linered worm type. I cleaned my once and there was nothing to clean. This screen won't trap very much at all unless the particles were pretty large.

jimuk
12-28-2006, 08:24 AM
You've got to be kidding!

Maybe you're trying too hard.
Just pull the two drain plugs, replace the filter, pour in 3.5 qts (after refitting the plugs) and take it for a short ride.
Check the sight gauge and add more to bring the level halfway between Min & Max.
Same as any other bike

No offence but if that's a PITA, you should consider letting the shop do it for you.
For us boys in the UK how much exactly is a quart i.e in litres or pints.

CBar
12-28-2006, 08:48 AM
Oil and filter change, 3.9 litres. Oil only, 3.7 litres.