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Removing
the case cover:
The
gearbox oil and coolant must be drained before proceeding
(see Step 2). The oil pump
cable can also be moved out of the way (see
Step 3)
The case cover gasket
can be reused several times, and only needs to be replaced,
if it is torn. Remember, over-tightening the bolts
is the leading cause of gasket failure.
It
is also recommended to let your new clutch friction plates
and steel plates soak
in clean gearbox oil for 15-20 minutes before installation. The
friction plates need to absorb a little bit of oil before
use. Now would be a good time to start this.
To
remove the case cover, remove the eight bolts colored red
in picture 1. Remember,
the bolt circled blue was the coolant drain screw (see
picture 1). The main coolant hose, and the inlet
/ outlet hoses for the oil pump can remained attached.
Pull
the side cover off by pulling straight out on it. It can
hang out of
the way by the coolant hose with no problem. Notice
the two case cover location pins. Do not lose these.
You
will now see four Phillips screws with clutch springs under
them in
the center of the clutch hub. Remove these four screws
and four clutch springs (see picture
2). The clutch center hub can now be removed. You
can then start to remove the old clutch friction plates and
steel plates. You will remove a total of four friction plates
and three steel plates. Throw the stock frictions, steels,
and springs away, as they are totally worthless.
Begin
replacing the friction and steel plates with the Barnett
ones that have
been soaking in fresh gearbox oil. Start with a friction
plate, then a steel, alternating between them until you are
done. The clutch pack will look like...
Friction--Steel--Friction--Steel--Friction--Steel--Friction
Place
the center clutch hub back onto the clutch basket. Note, the clutch
hub can only go on one way. Line up the arrow on the
clutch hub with the dot on the clutch basket (see
picture 4). Using the new stiffer clutch springs,
replace the Phillips screws that hold the clutch hub on. Torque
the four Phillips screws snugly by hand to roughly 3-5Nm.
Now
would be a good time to check your overall clutch adjustment. With
the cable still attached under the carburetor, squeeze the
clutch lever. If it needs major adjusting, this is done
by the center clutch hub nut and screw (see
picture 5). Minor adjustment can be done on the
handlebar. If for some reason, your clutch ever just
totally fails, 99% of the time, this locknut has come loose,
and simply needs re-tightening. We like to double check
that this screw and locknut are secure at this point. The
locknut is torqued to 26-28Nm.
You
are now ready to reinstall the case cover. Take a mental picture of
all the gears on the case cover that need to line up with
gears inside the motor. The case cover needs to go straight
on, and should go one with no effect or force. If it
is not going on, try rotating the plastic gears to better
line them up. Forcing the cover on can damage the gears. One
of which, drives the water pump (not a good idea to damage
that). You will also have to line up the gasket with
all the bolt holes. Take your time and be patient during
this step. It can take a while to properly line up everything. Torque
all the bolts to 10-12Nm in a criss-cross pattern (i.e., do
not go in a circle). The one long bolt can only go back
in one spot (the most forward bolt on the water pump is is
the long one.
Do not forget
to refill the gearbox with 75W-90 full synthetic gearbox oil
and the coolant before operating.
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