In
a clean and well-lit area of your garage, clear a workspace. A
lot of body work has to come off to do a full kit, and you
should
lay the parts out as they are removed. If
possible, lay the bodywork on carpet or some other non-abrasive
surface to prevent as much damage as possible to the finish
of your plastic.
Start
by removing the front seat which comes off with the key.
VERY IMPORTANT
Turn the fuel
tap (fuel petcock) to the OFF position.
Only proceed with a cold engine and
a well-ventilated area
Next,
using a 5mm Allen key wrench, remove the bolt and conical
spacer
located in the top front of the fuel tank near the steering
stem. Next, raise the tank on its back hinge and
remove the fuel line from the fuel tap (fuel petcock). Next,
lower the tank back to its original position. Next, using
a 10mm wrench and 10mm socket, remove the bolt at the
rear of the fuel tank which secures the tank at the back
side (see picture 2). Now
carefully remove the fuel tank and rest it in a position
which will not damage it. An old tire on its side
works very well for this.
Now
you only have twenty five fasteners left before all
of the
necessary bodywork will be off. Using a 4mm Allen
key wrench, carefully remove all of the bolts which secure
the fairings. Do this one side at a time. Start
with the left side, first removing the three bolts which
secure the mini panel behind the side stand (kickstand). Next,
remove the two bolts at the bottom of the side fairing
followed by the one in the middle of the fairing. Next,
the four bolts around the point where the upper meets
the side fairing. Now, look behind the front wheel
and remove the 4 bolts holding the chin fairing and the
bottom of the upper fairing to the side fairing. Caution
at or near this point, the fairing may want to fall off,
hold it securely. The turn signal does not need
to be removed, just disconnect the wires. As you
pull the side panel away from the bike, you just pull
the connectors apart that power the turn signals. The
chin fairing will now come out with the removal of four
more bolts. Now the right side panel, remember to
take out the screws that hold in the fresh air duct and
the rear of the panel. This panel comes off in the
same fashion as the other, just remember to unplug the
turn signal.
At
this point, you should have a pile of twenty-five fairing
screws,
one long tank hinge bolt, and the bolt & washer combo
that secures the front of the tank.
Removing the upper front fairing
and tail section is not required for any part of a RS50
hop-up
Reassembly
is the reverse of the process.
Reassembly tips:
Do the job one step at a time in the reverse order of the disassembly
process
Before
tightening any of the bolts completely, make sure all
of the bolts are installed and the bodywork is all lined
up properly.
Do not forget to re-install the
fresh air duct on the right side.
Proceed
to Step
2: Draining the Fluids
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