Ditech OIL and CHOKING problems Finally figured out!!! You'll want to read this!!!

[jokerjoe]

Cheers m8 that is the answer to all my worries. As i have had loads of problems with my sr. I now have a new one as i demanded that i got one. It broke down 3 times and only had done 1000 kilometers. All the symptons that you are talkin about are the same as i had when it was breakin down. Thanx for dat and now i no wat is wrong wid it i can be aware if my new one breaks down. I need to no this as the shop i bourght my first bike of are sooooooo dumb!!! When it broke the second time they said it was the carboretta but my bike aint even got a carboretta as it is the fuel injection version.!!!

Cheers m8
Joker joe

[Norway - srev]

Hi - I have changed the piston rings.... and now the engien don't start... I know there came som water inside when losing the cylinder, but i do not know how much. Is it posible too drain the engien? -----> There is about 7-8 bar out of the fuelpump, but there is no fuel in to the cylinder. I have tryed to follow the fuel through the fuelinjector (se the 2end picture at the start in this subject) When i now turn on the key and the fuelpump starts no fuel comes out (through the hole at the left arrow) but a preassure builds up, and if I let go with my fingers (fingers holding it in place) the filter wil pop out (is the thing with the numer on 0101 02 60-018 a fuel filter?) Further more I can not feel any preassure from the air compressor... (may be it is filled with water..??)

I have allsow tryed som "start gas" in to the air filter and then the engien does tend to start, but when the gas is used the engien just keeps winding.........with out starting....

Any one with som suggestion??

[di-tech]

my ditech wont start either it just dont get the engine running the starter motr wrks . wen it did wrk loads of smoke n black stuff come outa the exhaust ?? wtf i need this sh*t sorted

[Feedback]

Originally posted by di-tech
my ditech wont start either it just dont get the engine running the starter motr wrks . wen it did wrk loads of smoke n black stuff come outa the exhaust ?? wtf i need this sh*t sorted

Have you ever clean or changed your Sparkplug?

In my manual it says you should clean it the first 40km, and change it after 4000km. But everyting depends on your ignition, oil, gasoline, enginetemp and so on...

I had that problem before on my SR50 DiTech when i had run aprox 50km. My Idle rpm was realy bad, and i saw black "poffs" gets out of my exhaust, every rpm goes unstable untill i bought my new sparkplug (NGK R - CPR8E).

Try to change sparkplug first of all.

Kind regards Nicklas.

[Phil]

I have a Sr 50 (not ditec) Carb model. Does this moisture problem occur on the carb models as well?
I live in Miami Fla. the humidity capital.

[scootnfast]

No, it is only found on a ditech because they have a compressor that pressurizes the air for the fuel injector and air injector.

[e.bug]

Try NGK CR10EK, it's great! I had CPR8E and now i have CR10EK and it's much better then CPR8E

[apriliabigbore]

That's great news! I'm confused on how a colder plug will do better with a fouling problem, however...

[e.bug]

Originally posted by apriliabigbore
That's great news! I'm confused on how a colder plug will do better with a fouling problem, however...

I think that it's not about cold plug... it's because CR10EK have 2 electrodes and it's much much better... try it, on my didi it works great, i tryed alot of plugs and this is definitily the best

btw. I tried CPR8E, CR9E, Champion RG6YC and CR10EK

Try and post ur results here

[apriliabigbore]

I'm going to try a "warmer" plug next...the same one for sale on the online forum, but one step warmer. However, I already fixed my stumbling/choking problem in one move...though I still can't figure out why:

Torco semi synthetic injector oil

No matter what other oil I try my scoot won't run up hills on heavy throttle. With this oil...no problem. For example, to get back to my home each day I have to run 0.8 miles straight up an incline of like 30 degrees. With any other oil I have to drive in the parking lane and max out at 20 mph. With Torco I can stay over 30 mph, and a full throttle won't make it gag and stumble like the others! Don't ask me why...I don't know...all I know is that it is the only oil that keeps this scooter on the road!

[e.bug]

Originally posted by apriliabigbore
I'm going to try a "warmer" plug next...the same one for sale on the online forum, but one step warmer. However, I already fixed my stumbling/choking problem in one move...though I still can't figure out why:

Torco semi synthetic injector oil

No matter what other oil I try my scoot won't run up hills on heavy throttle. With this oil...no problem. For example, to get back to my home each day I have to run 0.8 miles straight up an incline of like 30 degrees. With any other oil I have to drive in the parking lane and max out at 20 mph. With Torco I can stay over 30 mph, and a full throttle won't make it gag and stumble like the others! Don't ask me why...I don't know...all I know is that it is the only oil that keeps this scooter on the road!

Just try CR10EK or CR9E maybe... they are both great ... but CR10EK, mmm

[apriliabigbore]

NGK PMR7A going in right now...

[mcollinstn]

Some oil stocks will suspend water in the medium better than others, while the others will rejet the water from the medium.

Different applications require different characteristics.

Sprint racing (bikes, cars, boats) generally dictates the best lubricating qualities with no regard to whether the lube will tolerate water intrusion. Lubes are changed between runs or at least every weekend, and nobody cares how much junk will stay in chemical suspension.

Endurance racing, though, is another story. For example, an offshore race boat may develop a leaking propshaft seal and if using a gear lube that doesn't tolerate water, his race is over. If, however, he is using a lube that will operate with some water in suspension, it may make the difference between whether he finished or breaks.

Two stroke injector lube USUALLY doesn't worry about water. MOST injection systems use a positive displacement pump to introduce oil to the intake tract, where more common carburetors or low pressure injection systems pick up the oil and take it thru the motor.

The DiTech setup is a little different.
Water blobs and injector nozzles don't go well together.

It is fairly simple to filter water out of fuel or oil, due to the molecule size of water.

Air is a whole nother problem. The higher the pressure, and hotter the air is, the more water it will hold in it. Drop the pressure, and cool the air, and the water drops fall right out of it.
This is why it rains. Humid warm clouds cool off (or travel into a lower pressure area) and they cannot hold as much water and the excess falls out.

In industrial applications, the only good ways to remove water from air is to (1) spin in and let the heavier water collect on the vessel walls and drool to the bottom for collection. This only gets a little of it. (2) Cool the air, as in a cooling loop and let more water fall out for collection. This is actually normally done before #1. (3) Run it through water absorbing media (dessicant). This works, but you have to have two dessicant bottles and after running on one for a while, you must switch to the other and bleed pressure backwards through the one you just got finished with to blow te trapped air out backwards for collection.

As I read this thread it made sense to me the difficult situation you guys have here, cause I am very familiar with industrial air drying...

You gonna definitely use an oil that will hold a bit of moisture in suspension.

[apriliabigbore]

Well...the new plug made no improvement...I'm bummed!

[jamie]

Hi MCOLLINSTN, great info dude.

U forgot 2 tell us "WHICH OIL" will hold moisture in suspension!!