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Thread: Front Wheel Bearing help needed

  1. #136
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I have a set of these pullers http://www.powersportsplace.com/part...FYeRHwoduWIPVg You pick an insert that just fits into the inner race, back it up with something and then drive the wedge on the end of the bar in. The insert grabs the bearing enough to pound it out - the bearing is toast afterwards of course if it wasn't already.

    Someone on this forum described making a tool that was basically a piece of tubing that had some cuts put into one end The tubing is then splayed out and then slid thru the bearing. when the splayed out section gets thru the inner race, it springs outward into the hole in the hub. Then you just pound out the bearing. It'll look like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

  2. #137
    apriliaforum expert old git's Avatar
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    Bigaprilia, from memory M16 rawbolt, insert, tighten bash the fcuk out of it with a hammer bearing comes out & is tossed in the bin.
    Repeat the other side, get new bearing & put them in.

    Sorted.

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  3. #138
    apriliaforum Junkie bigaprilia's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I have tried using my blind bearing puller insert and whacking with a drift and hammer but hard to get a good purchase on the bearing. NB: I live on Thorpe Bay old git

    Al
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  4. #139
    apriliaforum Member BadMiker's Avatar
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    I used a Snap-on Tool for my circlip pliers but I also have a set of these:

    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...circlip-pliers

    They should work as well as the Snap-On ones I used.

    For the tool to get the bearing out I bought a huge cold chisel from Machine mart for about 6. I then attacked it with my dremmel until the tip had a significant notch cut from the side and the edge of the tool was shaped kind of like this:

    -------
    88888|
    -------
    8/
    /
    |


    Then I put the new tool in the bearing that is closest to the notch and located the notch. This left a long portion of the tool sticking out of the wheel which I held on to with my left hand. I placed another punch (brass bar I use for transmissions) through the spacer till it was against the front of the cold chisel/ new tool. I hit this with a hard faced hammer while pulling on the new tool with my left until the bearing popped free.

    I originally tried to drive it out with the new tool from the other side but only succeeded in rounding off the hoot I had made and damaging the spacer. The pulling method I used out of frustration and it worked much better.

    Hope that helps.
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  5. #140
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigaprilia View Post
    Thanks.

    I have tried using my blind bearing puller insert and whacking with a drift and hammer but hard to get a good purchase on the bearing. NB: I live on Thorpe Bay old git

    Al
    I pulled all 5 wheel bearings (3 in the rear wheel) out of a Kawasaki last year with that kit I posted. It worked great. I did also use some penetrating fluid and heated the hub 1st with a heat gun.

  6. #141
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    I went the cheap route and used an allen wrench to fit into each slot behind bearing and a length of 1/2" pipe as a driver. Not fast but effective. Just have to make sure you're keeping bearing straight as possible. I was gentle with a heat gun for fear of damaging paint. Other side came right out with appropriately sized socket.
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  7. #142
    apriliaforum Member futura_fox's Avatar
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    I've been slowly working on this job over the holidays and this thread was a huge help. My only wisdom for this trying this is to resist the temptation to do remove and seat bearing without heat. Using a mapp torch made a world of difference!!!
    Also I second going with good quality bearings. I had to remove bearings that were aftermarket and already sounding crunchy. These were on a relacment wheel that I bought to repair my bike after an accident. My wheel had a broken rim but the original skf bearings were smooth as butter.

  8. #143
    apriliaforum Junkie Corsehf's Avatar
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    I replaced mine last year when I had the wheels recoated.
    I looked at them and thought I could do more damage than good so I got a local bike shop to remove them on the way to the powder coaters.
    Took 5 mins and cost me a pint!! Click image for larger version. 

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    Andy

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