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Thread: Front Wheel Bearing help needed

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert bobdavis73's Avatar
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    Front Wheel Bearing help needed

    First timer here on front wheel bearing replacement. There is no way to get a puller in there to yank them out. Anyone done this before? The manual said to use a special tool. However, there is no special tool listed for this in the special tools list. I have tried pounding on the inner sleeve to push the left side bearing out and all I'm doing is screwing up the sleeve.

    HELP!

    Bob


    "Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."
    --James Madison

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Junkie Turbo Rob's Avatar
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    Try this

    Howdy Bob,

    When I painted my wheels blue, I replaced all the bearings. I took them to my local engine machine shop, (a client of mine) and glass beaded them, and he used his mill/press to unseat the stockers, and he re-pressed the new ones after all the painting was done. I tried to do it like you also, and got no where fast. YOU of all people must have someone back there that could do the same work for you I hope.

    My 2 cents

    Rob H

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert bobdavis73's Avatar
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    Press Where?

    The service manual says to remove the left side bearing before the right even though the right is the one with the retaining snap ring. This is very strange. I guess my question is better stated as press where. The bearing on the right side(the one with the snap ring) I would think is against a shoulder and that is why the snap ring is used to retain it. This would position both of the bearings correctly in the wheel. Keep in mind this is my theory rather than engineering fact. If this were not true then the left side bearing would need to be set against an outside shoulder to maintaing the spacing of both bearings and that would require that it be pressed out the right side of the wheel and that makes it impossible to remove it first as the instructions suggest. If the right bearing sits against a shoulder in the cast wheel then I can not press agianst it to remove the left bearing. There is no place to press agianst the left bearing with the spacer inside. Hence my dismay.

    I will study the drawings more and see if I can find something. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

    Bob


    "Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."
    --James Madison

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert bullit in head's Avatar
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    I've replaced two setts now and the only way I could do it was with force and heat.....

    went something like this ... smash race to pieces with thin punch. remove all balls, heat the wheel with heat gun, and use the back of a ball hammer to wiggle the outer race out..... not the most elegant of procedures, but it worked, once the inner spacer is removed the other bearing can be pressed through from the other side with a hammer and punch..... on refitting, leave out the inner spacer so next time you dont have this problem.


    bullit

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    apriliaforum expert Befbever's Avatar
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    It's how McGuyver would have done it. I'm sure of it!
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  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert woodman's Avatar
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    Bob,
    I made a special tool to tap the bearings out with. It started out as a small chisel that I modified on a grinder. If you look past the bearings the sleve between them has a notch in it. I took a small chisel and ground the end to go past the bearing and fit in that notch then I could tap the sleeve and bearing out. It worked slick.
    I'll take a picture of it after work today and post it so you can see what I did.
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert bobdavis73's Avatar
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    Awesome

    Is this Forum great or what! Thanks for the help guys. I look forward to your tool photo Woodman. I was afraid of damaging the spacer but now I think I might just leave it out anyway.

    Just to let you all know.... after over 50,000 miles the bearings feel great. I am replacing them as a precation only.

    Bob


    "Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."
    --James Madison

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdavis73
    Is this Forum great or what! Thanks for the help guys. I look forward to your tool photo Woodman. I was afraid of damaging the spacer but now I think I might just leave it out anyway.

    Just to let you all know.... after over 50,000 miles the bearings feel great. I am replacing them as a precation only.

    Bob
    Its always a good idea to heat the hub before driving out a bearing. Unless both sides have a shoulder to keep the bearing from moving I wouldn't leave the spacer out. They are put there for a reason.

    For those of you that changed the bearings did they fail? At what mileage? Or did you just change them as a precaution?
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Years ago i watched a BMW replace the rear wheel bearings in my /6. He used a propane torch to heat(smoking hot!) the hub. Of course, that hub was plain aluminum and not powdercoat. Without seeing the previous suggestions i would use a brass or maybe aluminum rod and from the other side(thru the bearing you are not working on) pound on the outside race(the hole in the bearing should be plenty large enough to angle the drift.
    Along with heating the hub, you can also pop the new bearings in the freezer(in a plastic bag) shrinkage, heh, heh. If you have to tap in the new ones, find a large socket that fits in the hub's hole and only touches the bearings outer race. If i had a press available, i would still abuse the socket and not the spacers. The spacers push on the inner races. This might be obvious, but never push on the inner race as this will damage the bearing(they are not designed for side/thrust loads) rick

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    The older BMW twins used tapered roller bearings in the wheels & the whole stack had to be removed to figure out the shimming for proper preload. No need to get the Futura wheels that hot but warming them up with a heat gun would help insure that you don't remove hub material with the bearing.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert woodman's Avatar
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    Here is what I made. The bearings tap out and in easy, I did'nt have to heat them. I would put the spacer back in as it would serve as a guide for the axle so it would'nt want to hang up on the bearing as it is being slid in.
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  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert woodman's Avatar
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    The notch in the side is to get around the bearing and notch on the end lets it fit in the sleeve without slipping out when you hit it. The bearings are'nt in that tight so they tapped out easy. I used a socket the same as the outside diameter of the bearing to tap them in.

    Hope this helps.
    Louis
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  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikpaintr
    The older BMW twins used tapered roller bearings in the wheels & the whole stack had to be removed to figure out the shimming for proper preload. No need to get the Futura wheels that hot but warming them up with a heat gun would help insure that you don't remove hub material with the bearing.
    You know, i can't for the life of me remember why that all happened(some 25 years ago). But i do remember the special "feel" of that fitment of the internal spacer. Not exactly "hard science".
    I've helped replace similar bearings in Suzuki's and we never had to do anything more than what woodman(nice tool btw) has described. rick

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert bobdavis73's Avatar
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    No teacher like experience

    Thanks for the photos Woodman. I brought it with me to the shop today. I'll fab up tool like yours and Get ER Done! Thanks again for all the help guys.

    Bob


    "Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."
    --James Madison

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    apriliaforum expert bullit in head's Avatar
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    ooohhh eerr....! everyone is so proffesional.....looks like I'll have to make a tool like that for next time.. , nice tool btw

    as to why I replaced the bearings, the first time was because I had the wheels powder coated and had to remove them, the second time was because the first time I'd used cheap bearings and one side failed after only 5k miles, and were letting in water and out a brown sludge, so I upgraded to btter one's.


    I dont think I've had any ill effects from leaving out the spacer as the bearings have an inner home point anyway..(could be wrong and letting myself in for a big fall)




    bullit

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