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Thread: Disassembling Stock Connectors

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Disassembling Stock Connectors

    This pic shows how to pry the white locking block out of the rear of the brown connectors. Press down & pry back with a small screwdriver and it slides out.
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    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Here you can see the tabs that lock the male spades in the rectifier brown connector.
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    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Reach in from the front with a small screwdriver, pry up the tab & pull the wire/spade out from the rear. When you slide it back in the tab should snap back into position relocking the spade but it's a good idea to check.
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    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    With a narrow, thin screwdriver or something you devise reach in & depress the tab on top of the spade so that the spade will slide out the rear. This can be touchy so you have to make sure you are reaching all the way in & completely depressing the tab.
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    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Here you can see what the white connector spades look like & the locking tab you need to depress. Pry the tab back up when reinstalling & the spade will lock back in place.
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    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    This is what your spades should look like if soldered properly. To disassemble the stator side brown connector you reach in from the rear & depress the plastic molded tabs hanging down & pull the wire/spade back & out. The pointed tabs are part of the connector & not on the terminals.
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    Last edited by bikpaintr; 12-31-2005 at 02:52 PM.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Member Jean-François's Avatar
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    Very clean job John ! You've soldered properly the spades without melting wires insulates.
    Look at my job, it isn't so perfect but function is ok :
    http://mbigeard.free.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3542#3542
    2001'

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    apriliaforum Junkie Gotta Futura's Avatar
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    Nice post, thanks for sharing.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-François
    Very clean job John ! You've soldered properly the spades without melting wires insulates.
    Look at my job, it isn't so perfect but function is ok :
    http://mbigeard.free.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3542#3542
    Your work looks fine to me, the most important thing is to get the solder to meltdown fully & flow inside the crimp saturating the wires. I use a pencil style soldering station that concentrates less heat on the spade then the larger gun tip you used.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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    apriliaforum expert meanstrk's Avatar
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    Good post and pics. I am going to be bored today so I may pull mine apart and solder all mine. Everything looks good so far (Just checked them again last weekend when changing oil) and the prior owner had the stealer do the wiring mod, but nothing like being on the safe side rather than stranded.
    Ron
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  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert meanstrk's Avatar
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    Well........ Pulled everything apart, soldered all the crimped connectors, and did a complete inspection of the wiring mod donoe at the stealer by the previous owner. Not how I would have done it since all they did was add one wire per side and I would have considered the guage too small, not to mention that all they did was wrap the wires at each end..............

    In the end, all connections are soldered and I have a charging voltage of 14.10 at idle with the high beams on and 13.85 at 4K rpm. At no time throughout the RPM range does the voltage drop below 13.5 with high beams on, so I feel ok about the charging system.

    Now, I think I just need to replace this anemic battery.................. It does ok and have never stranded me yet, but it DOES seem to struggle to start the bike at times.
    Ron
    MSgt USMC (Retired!)
    N2 CR
    WERA # 45
    IBA #38812

    RST Futura
    Colin Edwards RSV R Mille #066 (Sold now. Sigh...)
    2007.5 Tuono

    For custom paint work, check out https://www.facebook.com/Trading-Paint-162751633826626/

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    If they used a light gauge wire, 16g or less, you should think about adding a second wire to each side. For a stock rectifier with the mod & soldered crimps your readings are on the low side especially if you are seeing a drop to 13.5v at any time. The YTZ14 is a nice upgrade but not necessary if you are getting a consistantly good charge.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  13. #13
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    John,

    Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures and descriptions. Very useful information.

    Al

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert day004's Avatar
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    Thanks John, I wish I had been able to get to this maintainance item before both white and brown connectors melted down..
    Has anyone had any luck finding connector blocks and pins suitable to the task here?. I've done some Goggleing but have drawn a blank. For the meantime the PosiLock connectors are doing OK..
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  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    I can supply both sides of the white connector & spades if you want to go back to stock. Once soldered they seem to hold up fine. I also have the rectifier side of the brown connector but can not supply the stator side.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

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