There is just a little bit of play in my steering head when I grab the front fork. Has anyone adjusted the lockring/adjust nut without removing the top triple clamp? I bought a spanner to fit. Do I need to loosen the center top beauty cap ( on top of the triple clamp) before I try to turn the two nuts below the triple clamp together? Or should I just remove the triple clamp etc.as per the manual? I must be lazy.
U can't really cheat on this job mate, as there's a large locking washer in there with tabs that brend/fold in two directions. Not to meantion there's a torque setting for that first lock nut/ring of which there is two in there(one locks the other in place).
The allen screw in the middle of the top tree & the fork leg clamp bolts have to be undone anyway because it presses the top tree down onto the top lock nut/ring under it, which will hold that still if u try to turn the other/second nut/ring that is visiable under the tree. All u will probably do by taking the short cut is brake a lock tab or two off the locking washer. So then the tightened nut/ring will just loosen again in a week or two & you're back to where u are now all over again.
I think it's worth taking the top tree off to do it right as per the manual in my opinion, some times it's just the top one of the two nuts/rings that is loose too. With the tree off u may find that it's just finger tight.
It's a bit of a job as u have to be sure to support the bike etc.
Good luck with it.
Thanks. Im using a Mille manual. Do I have to take the handlebars off or can they stay on? I think that is the only difference. I have a good stand and I assume the bottom triple clamp will hold the fork legs in place. Should I have the front tire lightly touching the ground (supported) with the top clamp off? Anyone else do this job yet? Bike is under warranty but I would rather do it myself.
Closer inspection: it looks like I can just raise the top triple clamp, leaving enough room to get a spanner wrench on both the lock and adjust nut. I can measure the spanner arm and torque to correct #. The only question is will I be able to bend the lock tabs from the side. anyone gone here before me?
It's easier if u take off the Tuono fairing & head light cluster, then the top tree/handle bars have enough room the lay it forward, Throw a cover over the tank & the instrument panel etc. before u start to save any problems while undoing the top tree/handle bars, & laying it forward. Saves scratches etc.
U will have to block the front wheel so it doesn't/isn't able to move forward or back(if u leave it in that is), otherwise the tree won't line up when u try to replace it as it can move to tops of the fork legs a little, making it hard to get the top tree back on with bars connected. Tyre lightly touching & blocked works. But don't be surprised if u need a to move the front end about to get the tree back on. Just take your time & you'll be fine.
Ps...special care of the clear part of the instrument panel mate, a thick protective cover over it...
Last edited by Scary; 08-20-2005 at 05:39 PM.
Thanks Scary. That is just the kind of help I neeed and this forum is great for. I will tackle the bearing adjustment soon.
I did a search and one person said to tighten to 29ft/lb for correct preload then retorque to 14ft/lb. Any comment? I would \0\0???\0\0\0\0??je there was no play and the bars move easily. The manual says 40Nm or4.0kg. I assume the lock nut will cause the adjust nut to turn a little just like a tappet adjustment, but with tappets you can check with a feeler guage when you are done.
Just made sure there was no end play and the bars turn easily. (not sure what happened to that sentance)
I took Clarkies advise too, the higher rate is if u have replaced the bearings & need to seat them properly first.....his advise is top shelf mate !
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...bearing+torque
I had a problem with my top ring being finger tight from the factory too, & couldn't get the lock washer tabs to line up as they should once tightened, (which was why the guy at the factory had left it finger tight I guess)....After a bit of a think about my problem, I removed the top lock nut/ring & turned it over(up side down to what it was) & bingo it all lined up sweet & the tabs locked in perfect.
I also found an "old" shockie adjusting spanner that I used to hold the bottom nut/ring,(once torqued), while tightening/locking the top one in place as per manual.
Scary, you are not going to believe this: I had a Prof. Mechanic check my forks and he found the bike (head bearings) are fine. The bike was rocking on the front lift just slightly! I think I now know how to check and adjust them. Thanks again, Steve
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