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Thread: after oil change oil led burning

  1. #16
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I would try replacing the oil pressure switch. They are known to fail. Don't continue driving until this is solved. Could also be a pressure relief valve stuck open.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  2. #17
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    Running the engine at idle wont give you a correct engine oil level indication and topping it up to near the full mark will fill your air box full of oil.

  3. #18
    apriliaforum expert DanV990's Avatar
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    Engines are designed with specific tolerances and to use oil with a viscosity range that matches those tolerances. If you use oil that is too thick or too thin for the tolerances you run the risk of damaging the engine.

    Engines that are designed to run thinner oil have tighter tolerances. If you run oil that is too thick you may not get enough between the parts to keep metal off metal.

    Engines that are designed for thicker oil have looser tolerances. If you run oil that is too thin it may not be able to create a consistent lubricating film, again causing metal to metal contact.

    Bottom line, the engineers and manufacturers list specific recommended oil weights for a reason. Deviating too far from those recommendations puts your engine at risk for premature wear.
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  4. #19
    apriliaforum prov-nov fderaad's Avatar
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    Okay i got the message. I have called my dealer yesterday and essentially he said the same. Change the oil for a 15W50 and hope that the engine is not damaged. I will do that next week when i have time and yes it means i can't ride her so far. Strange enough what i said before i was always riding this oil and never had the problem before. I am using this oil also in my Yamaha R1 but agree that is may be a different discussion. The characteristics of that bike are different. Anyway, to be continued.

  5. #20
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    Yes but with this Oil he use Oil light should be off. Something else is wrong.

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  6. #21
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I agree. The oil used should not cause the oil light to come on unless there is another problem in the oil system.

    Correction: Realised now that it was a 30 oil and not 40 oil used, so it may be an oil viscosity problem. 50 to 30 is a big step.
    Last edited by deefred; 04-18-2018 at 02:50 AM.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  7. #22
    apriliaforum Member
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    I think Oil pressure sensor is broken because engine will have big end bearings gone now if he ride it few miles without Oil pressure.

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  8. #23
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevex View Post
    Running the engine at idle wont give you a correct engine oil level indication and topping it up to near the full mark will fill your air box full of oil.
    Actually most all dry sump systems use warm idle to set oil level. Of course having the bike straight up is necessary. This is the way I check the oil level at the end of every ride and have done so for almost 16 years. I've written about extensively HERE.

    It must be pointed out that he lives in a very cold climate. Thinner oils are often necessary in cold climates. Though I wouldn't run oil that thin in a liter twin I doubt the oil weight is the reason for the oil light. I keep hearing about newer engines designed for thinner oils having tighter clearances. I've looked into this a little and have not been able to find any evidence of new engines with tighter piston clearance, main bearing, rod bearing, cam bearing clearance than my 82 BMW air cooled twin. The main reason newer autos run thin oils is to improve the gas mileage number on the sticker. Oils are definitely better today. With full synthetic oils you can basically throw out the first number. 5W30 full synthetic oil is basically 30wt. This has been well explained here years ago by an oil engineer. I will find the thread if anyone wants it.

    Oil filter, pressure switch, or relief valve seem the most likely causes but until someone figures it out we can only guess. Could also be a failed oil pump gear.

    Check the function of the oil pressure switch and circuit. Test the oil pressure or at least determine if oil is flowing. Those steps will determine the course forward.
    Last edited by kzmille; 04-19-2018 at 07:11 AM.
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  9. #24
    apriliaforum expert
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    Naw. Oil viscosity is not it. Go back & check your work. Oil filter probably the prob.
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