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Thread: Adding an oil cooler - Shiver 750

  1. #1
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    Adding an oil cooler - Shiver 750

    Hey guys, greetings from sunny Malaysia where its ~90' all year round.

    I daily ride my bike, and I find the heat to be slightly unbearable. I've swapped out the coolant, and figured there shouldn't be any harm if I were to run a thermostat-ed oil cooler.

    My initial thoughts were to run it via a sandwich plate, but I felt that would introduce another point of failure since these items are easily removable.

    I was looking at the DD 1200, which has an oil cooler, and noticed they plumb the oil from these little holes on the right side/behind of the oil filter. A casual inspection shows there MIGHT be oil channels behind, though I'd have to use a stiff wire to confirm this the next time I change my oil.

    Big question is: Has anyone added an oil cooler by drilling and tapping these holes on the side?

    Shown here is the DD 1200 and Shiver 750 engine blocks. Notice the DD1200 has oil filter threads screwed on already.

    Of course I would take no for an answer, but ideally I'd like to cool things down a little.

    I'll later look at other things like ceramic coating my pipes, but for now this is what I'd like to move. Suggestions are welcome too!

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  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert rule62's Avatar
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    I've thought about this too, but haven't gotten too far into it yet. I did a similar mod to my Duc Monster 620, which didn't come with an oil cooler, but had similar ports on the case, where the larger displacement bikes had oil cooler lines.

    One thing I did have to do was check the parts diagram for the larger bikes. Found out there was a small diverter spring/valve that had to be screwed in behind the oil filter in order to make the oil flow through the cooler lines. Otherwise, the cooler might fill with oil, but it wouldn't get pumped through, effectively negating the cooler's purpose.

    I'd first check to see if a similar spring/valve is fitted to the 1200. Might be a good start.

    FWIW: I've had my pipes ceramic coated, and have swapped to Engine Ice and Samco hoses. It's brought the temp down a bit. I'm currently messing around with fuel mapping (RapidBike EVO) to see if richening things up helps drop the running temp even more (as I believe it will).

    Good luck. Please keep us posted with whatever you discover. The Duc mod was fairly simple. Hopefully the Ape will be too.
    2014 DD 750 ABS - Spark exhaust, Arrow decat, headers (all ceramic coated), BMC filter, BikeMaster DLFP16-BS LiFePO battery, NGK iridium plugs, GPR steering damper, DD 1200 fully adjustable rear shock w/spring swap, 2016 Tuono Factory wheels, 15/44 520 conversion (PBR/Superlite/DID), Strada-7 fork preload adjusters, Samco 2-piece hose kit w/clamps, Engine Ice, Renazco Racing seat, EvoTech tidy tail, Aprilia grab handles, shorty levers, crank-case breather mod, evap-can delete... and a Rapid Bike EVO.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
    One thing I did have to do was check the parts diagram for the larger bikes. Found out there was a small diverter spring/valve that had to be screwed in behind the oil filter in order to make the oil flow through the cooler lines. Otherwise, the cooler might fill with oil, but it wouldn't get pumped through, effectively negating the cooler's purpose.

    I'd first check to see if a similar spring/valve is fitted to the 1200. Might be a good start.
    Thanks for the tip. I'll check through the DD1200's service manual again just to take a peek. I was checking out for engine block numbers (obviously different) with the idea if they're similar then I can probably just drill it out and not have to make this thread.

    Maybe we we can hope for someone with a dead engine to do us a real solid and see if this works.


    Quote Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
    Good luck. Please keep us posted with whatever you discover. The Duc mod was fairly simple. Hopefully the Ape will be too.
    Lol I'm a bit more risk averse so was hoping someone would have done it first.

    Thinking of the logistics when it comes down to drilling the channels (with the assumption they're the right ports), how do I ensure no shavings get into the engine? Understandably one channel heads to the filter, which isn't a concern; but the return channel bringing oil back to the sump/heads is what worries me.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
    One thing I did have to do was check the parts diagram for the larger bikes.
    You mind sharing the model what you compared your bike with so I have something to compare against?

    I checked the Shiver(p65) vs DD1200's(p58) parts manual and noticed some similarities, but enough differences to make me think we're better off using adapter plates.

    For example: The DD has a plate bypass (#20). What is this for? To reduce oil flow through the oil cooler? I can't tell without opening a block, and we don't really have DD1200s where I am, and I certainly don't have the skills for it.

    On adapter plates: Realistically people use them for racing on large engines so we should be good. Yes our engines are smaller but we're running easily double their engine speeds, but I doubt it'll be an issue. I'd go this route for ease of installation but really I'd like it if my bike was neat and tidy!

  5. #5
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    I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'd say that plate bypass blocks off a channel that will then allow circulation through the cooler rather than still shortcutting it, just as rule62 describes.

    Unfortunately, it does look like you'll need to split the cases.

    It would be something I'd want to do if I were to track much. In which case investigating the bottom end and gearbox isn't a bad idea.


    If you want the engine itself to run cooler, I suspect you may have to find an alternative approach, e.g. a bigger rad or different thermostat - sometimes these can be wide open and still allow water to bypass the radiator. Some are set to different temperatures, too. The 'stat is not too hard to get to, just behind the steel part of the frame on the left hand side.

    If you want less heat rising up onto yourself, then ceramic coating the exhaust and removing the cat would be the two most effective changes to make, I'd say.
    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    If you simply want the engine to run cooler, I would remove the thermostat completely to ensure no restrictions in coolant getting to the radiator. The engine will warm up slower, but in your climate and good oil, that should not be a problem.
    Frodo
    2015 Shiver
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert rule62's Avatar
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    Just like Ink said... that plate does look to be necessary for oil to actually be pumped through the oil cooler lines. The Duc part was much easier to get to. It just screwed on to the same post as the oil filter, locked in place with some thread sealant. I wouldn't go splitting cases just for this mod. Ceramic coating, thermostat, etc... as suggested, would be my vote. Thermostat looks a bit of a pain in the ass to get at, otherwise it might me my summer project, if my running temps stay too high. (There's also much debate about whether or not lower degree thermos actually net any real benefit.)
    2014 DD 750 ABS - Spark exhaust, Arrow decat, headers (all ceramic coated), BMC filter, BikeMaster DLFP16-BS LiFePO battery, NGK iridium plugs, GPR steering damper, DD 1200 fully adjustable rear shock w/spring swap, 2016 Tuono Factory wheels, 15/44 520 conversion (PBR/Superlite/DID), Strada-7 fork preload adjusters, Samco 2-piece hose kit w/clamps, Engine Ice, Renazco Racing seat, EvoTech tidy tail, Aprilia grab handles, shorty levers, crank-case breather mod, evap-can delete... and a Rapid Bike EVO.

  8. #8
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    I managed to find some pics of the 1200 cases, and you can see the plate. I can't decipher exactly what it does, though.

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    2009 Shiver (White) | UK

  9. #9
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    Aren't those holes, just the mounting holes for the abs unit holder?

    edit: nevermind me ^^
    Last edited by kourkou; 01-03-2018 at 06:23 PM.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
    Thermostat looks a bit of a pain in the ass to get at, otherwise it might me my summer project, if my running temps stay too high. (There's also much debate about whether or not lower degree thermos actually net any real benefit.)
    I was thinking about removing the thermostat completely, not putting a lower temp one in. A lower temp thermostat will simply lower the temperature when it is fully open and I'm guessing you guys in hot climates have thermostats full open when running. Removing the thermostat would presumably increase flow through the radiator by removing a choke point. The thermostat looks a complicated three-way unit, so might be easier simply to remove the guts and reinstall.
    As Rule said, much easier than splitting the cases.
    Frodo
    2015 Shiver
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  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert High Country's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frodo View Post
    I was thinking about removing the thermostat completely, not putting a lower temp one in. A lower temp thermostat will simply lower the temperature when it is fully open and I'm guessing you guys in hot climates have thermostats full open when running. Removing the thermostat would presumably increase flow through the radiator by removing a choke point. The thermostat looks a complicated three-way unit, so might be easier simply to remove the guts and reinstall.
    As Rule said, much easier than splitting the cases.
    I don't know if the same is true for cars and bikes, but generally in a car removing it altogether causes the coolant to flow too quickly to cool off in the radiator. It is actually better to remove the guts and reinstall.
    2009 Aprilia Dosoduro 750 (Adventurized: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/a...893274&thumb=1)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndelibleInk View Post
    ..as rule62 describes…

    If you want less heat rising up onto yourself, then ceramic coating the exhaust and removing the cat would be the two most effective changes to make, I'd say.
    Where can I read about rule 62? Edit: Damn, rule62 is a username. I have a bad habit of not looking at names when I read through haha.

    Yeah the end goal is less heat. I suspect I''ll just ceramic coat it. I've already decatted it and the difference was day-and-night though I do feel bad about what we’re doing to the environment.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frodo View Post
    If you simply want the engine to run cooler, I would remove the thermostat completely to ensure no restrictions in coolant getting to the radiator. The engine will warm up slower, but in your climate and good oil, that should not be a problem.
    Good idea, I’ll look into this. I know its an easy job for cars but let me read through our service manual proper and see.

    Quote Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
    …The Duc part was much easier to get to... as suggested, would be my vote.
    Thanks for your input. I’ll abort this project for now since there’s no real tangible benefit. We’re already running a 20,000km service interval and I don’t see a need to further extend that.

    Quote Originally Posted by IndelibleInk View Post
    I managed to find some pics of the 1200 cases, and you can see the plate. I can't decipher exactly what it does, though.
    Thanks, this is A+ though I’ll be aborting this project for the moment and revisit it with adapter plates. Love the community spirit here!

    Quote Originally Posted by Frodo View Post
    ...The thermostat looks a complicated three-way unit...
    Damn...

    Quote Originally Posted by High Country View Post
    I don't know if the same is true for cars and bikes, but generally in a car removing it altogether causes the coolant to flow too quickly to cool off in the radiator. It is actually better to remove the guts and reinstall.
    I was looking at our channels and they’re tiny as heck. Off-hand, not a concern but I’ll definitely read up more just to make sure I won’t be killing my wife.

  13. #13
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    This is an interesting topic and one I have wondered about in regards to my DD 750.

    I have thought about a different option here and wonder what you guys think.

    I had a Mustang with a 302 in high school. One option I added to help cool it was a filter relocation kit.

    It was a "plate" mounted to the original oil filter adaptor on the block. The design used hoses routed to a remote mounting plate up on the fender. The idea was to just make oil changes easier, more so with headers that really make the stock location difficult.

    While I was installing it, I got the idea of adding a cooler up front, between the grill and radiator. I bought some adaptors and more hose to make the distance to the grill.

    I mounted it low, so as to have a minimal impact on cool air to the radiator. At one point, I even had a small shroud to prevent "hot oil air" from going through the radiator.

    Do you think a similar idea would work on a 750 Dorso or Shiver?

    Mechanically, I see little to no issue. There might be clearance issues between the filter and belly pan or the ABS mount/housing. I would have to take it apart and look.

    Also, is there a possible issue with thermal shock if the oil is too cool?

    Let me know what you guys think. It might be worth a test run.

    Mark

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert rule62's Avatar
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    I don't think there'd be an issue with thermal shock. It's not like an aux oil cooler would suddenly cool the oil off that much. Plus, the 1200's have an oil cooler, so it's been put to practice already.
    2014 DD 750 ABS - Spark exhaust, Arrow decat, headers (all ceramic coated), BMC filter, BikeMaster DLFP16-BS LiFePO battery, NGK iridium plugs, GPR steering damper, DD 1200 fully adjustable rear shock w/spring swap, 2016 Tuono Factory wheels, 15/44 520 conversion (PBR/Superlite/DID), Strada-7 fork preload adjusters, Samco 2-piece hose kit w/clamps, Engine Ice, Renazco Racing seat, EvoTech tidy tail, Aprilia grab handles, shorty levers, crank-case breather mod, evap-can delete... and a Rapid Bike EVO.

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