Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Fut is due for for coolant fluid change.

  1. #1
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78

    Fut is due for for coolant fluid change.

    Hi, are there any tricks or traps I need to know about before I do this? I don't have a manual only the handbook!

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert photoRotor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SE corner of the NW
    Posts
    10,572
    PM me an email address, and I'll send you the service manual.
    JD

    '01 Futura

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sweden, Linköping
    Posts
    5,576
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert photoRotor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SE corner of the NW
    Posts
    10,572
    ^ Thanks - I downloaded the files a few years ago, and lost track of that website.
    JD

    '01 Futura

  5. #5
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Thanks for the link

  6. #6
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    I have a bad case of "whileImatit" disease, I finished the oil change and moved round the other side to do the coolant, whats in there is blue, I hope it hasn't been there since new! The PO said the bike had a service before I got it but the coolant wasn't done (mileage just coming up to 32,000 miles) fork seals were though. I decided seeing I had to tear more parts off I may as well try and fix the dash because it has the fault where it won't power up when cold, I also got a replacement dash panel in white from an outfit called Venoxy, the new panel is marked in kph only where the original is mph/kph but the kph is hard to read and the dark colour of the original panel is not that easy to see in certain conditions (at least for my old eyes lol).

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,289
    Blue juice! This is likely similar to VW G11 coolant, available today from Pentosin as well. The new formula (well, new since '98 or so) is the pink G12 /G13 coolant.

    I mention these coolants because of two things: first, I'm quite familiar with them, and second, the Rotax heart of the machine is Austrian...und ze Germans like proper formulas. The blue stuff is compatible with regular "green" ethylene glycol coolants, so you can drain the existing batch and fill with new.

    I prefer to update the coolant to the new pink stuff, since dissimilar metals corrosion, and aluminum alloys is a precarious mix. All you need do is fill with clear water...wait, I missed a step there. Get coolant and beer. Pop that beer first, and down the gullet she goes! Warm the engine first. Shut the engine down, and gradually open the radiator cap. Protect your hands by using a cloth.

    In fact, safety first. Block off the area with stanchions and hazard tape, so bystanders will be free of the work area. Wear eye protection, Elton John-style oversized rose colored glasses are good for this. So are those bejeweled huge ones Elizabeth Taylor wore, simply fabulous. Drain the coolant, fill with water only, and warm the system fully. Drain once warm, as the thermostat will be open. Don't forget to drain the coolant reservoir, you can rinse this with Perrier if desired.

    The entire system only holds a few liters, so take a few minutes and renew the system with fresh coolant mix. The trick is to have the bike on the side stand, as this will place the filler tube at the highest point. There is a bolt holding the tube to the frame. Simply remove this bolt, and you can move the filler neck into a much easier position for your task! Be sure to add coolant to the overflow tank! As the engine cools, it will self-level by drawing coolant from the tank.

    Bob

  8. #8
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Darn, I put the green stuff in last night otherwise I would have followed your lead and used the pink stuff. But since I had the green stuff there for my classic car and there just happened to be the right amount......
    Bike is sitting on the main stand so I will put it on the side stand as you suggest when I top it off. Laughed about your safety suggestions, reminded me of some of the over the top stuff we have to go though at work. Coolant is toxic so a hazmat suit and rubber gloves are a given of course

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie bkmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Costa Rica
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by Haggisbash View Post
    Darn, I put the green stuff in last night otherwise I would have followed your lead and used the pink stuff. But since I had the green stuff there for my classic car and there just happened to be the right amount......
    Bike is sitting on the main stand so I will put it on the side stand as you suggest when I top it off. Laughed about your safety suggestions, reminded me of some of the over the top stuff we have to go though at work. Coolant is toxic so a hazmat suit and rubber gloves are a given of course
    The "old" green stuff is for "old" cars. The blue one could have been Honda coolant. A perfect fit for the Rotax cooling system. The green is the old silicate formula and will eventually come out of suspension and possibly harm the water pump. Any of the new extended life coolants that are nitrite/silicate/etc. free will work fine. If you keep the green stuff in there make sure to flush it out good in no more than a year to be safe.
    2002 Capo Wilbers rear shock, Wilbers front progressive springs, Metal fuel connectors, polaris sh775 series regulator direct wired, silicone vacuum lines, catfish map, CNC clutch slave, autoelectrics coils (2)sides, Triumph Denso 3990's centers, k&n air filter, all LED lighting, SS brake and clutch lines, Givi tall screen, Triumph tiger 955i mirrors, dual horns. Pure copper 4 gauge battery cables. Rox risers.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Says no silicates on the container so thats something I guess.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Junkie bkmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Costa Rica
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by Haggisbash View Post
    Says no silicates on the container so thats something I guess.
    Yup, that is something. Green is the new green then. It should be a modern formula if there are no silicates. The manufacturers just like to confuse things by not having standardized colors. It should do the job nicely.
    2002 Capo Wilbers rear shock, Wilbers front progressive springs, Metal fuel connectors, polaris sh775 series regulator direct wired, silicone vacuum lines, catfish map, CNC clutch slave, autoelectrics coils (2)sides, Triumph Denso 3990's centers, k&n air filter, all LED lighting, SS brake and clutch lines, Givi tall screen, Triumph tiger 955i mirrors, dual horns. Pure copper 4 gauge battery cables. Rox risers.

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert spesnaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,289
    There is nothing wrong with silicates, they're in the "modern" coolants as well. Corrosion is the inevitable result of the difference in the electronegativity of metals, not every alloy the coolant system sees has the same affinity for electrons.

    This problem has been notable with some of the latest heat exchangers, done a few heater cores recently...in fact, I have one on the lift to replace tomorrow. As a rule of thumb, renew your coolant every few years at the least. The coolant hoses are also a part of this equation. Not replacing them, but the vulcanized rubber is an issue. All rubber contains a bit of sulfur, and this reacts with water to make the coolant slightly acidic over time. We all know how much that helps the corrosion process.

    The problem with intermixing coolants is a polymerization issue, one can end up with thick goo in the wee passages, this would happen if a customer topped up their low coolant using generic "green" glycol into the system with "pink" modern coolant. As long as you do a proper flushing, you'll be fine.

    Bob

  13. #13
    apriliaforum Junkie bkmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Costa Rica
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by spesnaz View Post
    There is nothing wrong with silicates, they're in the "modern" coolants as well. Corrosion is the inevitable result of the difference in the electronegativity of metals, not every alloy the coolant system sees has the same affinity for electrons.

    Bob
    Yes they are in the modern Hoat or so called hybrid coolants. But there are more organics in there to help buffer and add longevity to the coolant. As long as the silicates stay in suspension they are fine. Selecting a silicate free formula sort of guarantees that there are no silicates coming out of suspension and causing havoc with water pumps, etc. Any modern formula should be fine in most any vehicle, even the HOAT coolants with some silicates. It is just the "old" green silicate full formula that scares me in modern engines. And I agree fully Bob that mixing is a no no without aa proper flush first..
    2002 Capo Wilbers rear shock, Wilbers front progressive springs, Metal fuel connectors, polaris sh775 series regulator direct wired, silicone vacuum lines, catfish map, CNC clutch slave, autoelectrics coils (2)sides, Triumph Denso 3990's centers, k&n air filter, all LED lighting, SS brake and clutch lines, Givi tall screen, Triumph tiger 955i mirrors, dual horns. Pure copper 4 gauge battery cables. Rox risers.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    78
    Test ride completed, everything seems fine engine wise, new white dash panel makes it much easier to keep an eye on speed (only 4kph tolerance here by the cops during the holidays). Hopefully dash wiring mod so panel powers up in cold weather is good too (should have put it in the fridge and then test fitted I guess).

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert Fox Fader's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Columbus, GA
    Posts
    5,008
    I've been using the "green stuff" in these bikes for many, many years with zero problems... and the stuff I always use is Walmart's Supertech
    2007 Tuono 1000R Factory
    Cored OE Racing CansMap2Pazzo Shorty Knock-offs15-40AF1 Link PlatesAprilia Sliders
    Laminar WindscreenLowered PegsLED City and Tag Lights
    ProTaper Universal LowClear Signal Lenses
    2017 High-Ball in Suede Nuclear Sunset Orange
    2017 Z125 PRO

    2001 Futura in Silver - Sold, after 8.5 years of service.

    Retired - DJ, Turntablist, MC, Creator, Video Editor and Mixologist.
    Cored OE Cans vs Leo Vince Titanium Vid
    Slammin' Tunes!

    HF152, 10-26954
    HF564 .024-.028


    Chrome extension to see photobucket blocked pics.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Any adivice for a first time coolant flush / change?
    By Vance in forum RSV1000 Mille, Mille R, and Mille SP (1998-2003)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-27-2013, 09:37 AM
  2. Yeah I'll probably regret it, but Fut is up for sale
    By Pat in forum Aprilia Motorcycles and Scooters for Sale / Wanted
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-21-2011, 05:50 PM
  3. Yeah I'll probably regret it, but Fut is up for sale
    By Pat in forum RST1000 Futura (all years)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-18-2011, 03:14 PM
  4. Where is the drain plug for the coolant?
    By mikesduc in forum RSV Tuono, Tuono R, Tuono Racing, and Tuono Factory (2002-2005)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-18-2005, 10:31 AM
  5. How is the RST for two up riding?
    By chuckdyer in forum RST1000 Futura (all years)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-11-2003, 02:21 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •