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Thread: Voltage R/R output change before and after a ride

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Member
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    Voltage R/R output change before and after a ride

    Here's my ride report from yesterday:

    1) Begin, with battery fully charged (CTEK charger via pigtail I've installed).

    2) Motor starts on first attempt. Wait about 20 seconds, motor continues to run.

    3) Connect Battery Tender voltmeter to charging pigtail. Result: 13 V at idle, 12.7-12.8 at higher RPM

    4) Ride around for an hour or so then park the bike for a few hours and have pizza with a buddy and his wife at his house.

    5) Ride back home (about a 30 minute ride)

    6) Park bike in driveway and go inside. About 10 minutes later I decide that it might be interesting to check the voltage again, so I go back out, start the still pretty warm motor and get 13.9 - 14 V at idle and about 13.7-13.8 at higher RPMs.

    Does it make sense to you that a hot/warm motor would be about 1 V higher than a cold one?

    I guess the next step will be to take the voltmeter with me on my next ride and track the output more often during a ride.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Still the OEM R/R?
    If not, what have you replaced it with?
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    Still the OEM R/R?
    If not, what have you replaced it with?
    I \haven't yet had a chance to remove the fairing to look, but the previous owners that I've spoken to (I don't have info from all of them) said that the brown connector and the R/R were still original. I haven no idea how accurate that is.

    My plan was to hopefully trouble-shoot the problem and get all the parts required then start to take things apart, but I may have to poke around a bit first then order the required stuff.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Poking around to know your bike is always good. If the brown connector never had the terminal crimps soldered, its a very potential trouble maker.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert meanstrk's Avatar
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    A warm connector may have a tighter tolerance than a cold one which could result in different readings.
    Ron
    MSgt USMC (Retired!)
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    RST Futura
    Colin Edwards RSV R Mille #066 (Sold now. Sigh...)
    2007.5 Tuono

    For custom paint work, check out https://www.facebook.com/Trading-Paint-162751633826626/

  6. #6
    apriliaforum prov-nov ChrisCrash's Avatar
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    Ok Spin10k, I don't want to overdo this response, but there are many different reasons for what you are seeing. Please bear in mind that voltage readings can only be comparable between calibrated meters of the same meter (the option you are using). Just be aware that your meter might be reading high or low compared to others.
    Now, back to your question. I suggest that the CTEK battery charger is an intelligent charger with some care and consideration for the long-term state of your battery and so may have been gently trickle charging your battery and had not yet reached a fully charged (highest voltage PD). This can take days to achieve, depending upon the charger 'intelligence' and programming. The on-board charging system out of the alternator can be much more primitive with a high a.c. ripple content to the d.c. battery and is capable of putting much higher voltages out to the battery. This can 'over-charge' the battery and lead to potential problems. The brown connector can lead to reduced voltage to the battery and this can result in insufficient battery voltage to get a good charge. In your case, I would suggest that the bikes charging 'system' could be in a good state and putting a high voltage across the battery terminals, which the battery will eventually adopt (note (again), low voltage would probably mean a high charge current, and high voltage a low charge current - OK?).
    I would expect that your battery voltage will slowly drop, possible back to 13 Vish with no charge of any sort (good battery). Connecting the CTEK will charge at variable voltages, but possibly lower than the output of the on-board system and you will see the same thing on a similar ride in the future. When you see something dramatically different is the time to start thinking of problems.
    Alternative options available, some dependent upon what you have on your bike!

    As Deefred says, it's a good idea to find out what you have got as your 'system' and then you can know what you might expect.
    Mods: 2001 UK bike, metal fuel QD, FH008 R/R, replaced vac tubes, FPR mod, K&N air filter, air boot restrictor removed, two Hootax horns, digital voltmeter above tacho, replaced solenoid and feed/return wiring to battery and starter, NWS hugger.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    Very simple conclusion to your test results: Faulty RR unit.

    Yes, cleaned-up terminals might help.

    Yes, it's normal to achieve better warm charge volts after a 30 minute ride. It's still charging, and your battery surface charge is much higher than you started your day with. What ChrisCrash said somewhere in there.

    But it's charging wrong.

    Higher idle charge volts is opposite normal. A healthy setup will always produce higher voltage to a healthy battery at high RPMs. Period. And the regulator is working--it does allow 14 volts when it can. But the rectifier is shot, and cannot keep up with higher AC frequencies at elevated engine speed.

    Replace your RR unit and clean up your terminals before it strands you.
    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    The OEM R/R has always charged higher at idle. Its designed like that. It may be failing any way but that is another thing.
    For piece of mind I would replace it with a mosfet unit.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    The OEM R/R has always charged higher at idle. Its designed like that. It may be failing any way but that is another thing.
    Are you certain? I ask because I've seen two that perform normally. My own (second Futura), before internally shorting, was charging 13.2 and 13.6 idle/high initially, then 13.8/14.2 after cleaning up all the connector resistance.

    Then recently I had the opportunity to dig into an unmolested and unmodded 2001 model, all stock, with similar numbers as above.
    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Yes Im certain. Even the mille section is reporting the same thing.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Yep, that was considered "normal" for the OE POS. After the wire mod thing, mine put out 14.1 at idle and 13.9 at 4k. Subtract about 0.5V or so from both of those numbers w/o the wire mod. The starter motor would hit the wall when the bike was good and hot and compression was up.

    I had to remove the wire mod when I switched to one of "Rick's" to keep voltage from going too high.

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