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Thread: Caponord 1200 Rally - Front Cylinder Timing Gear

  1. #16
    apriliaforum Member andydj31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmsarat View Post
    What is causing this problem? bad quality or bad design? The part number didn't change so replacing the timing gear could be a short term solution. What is your experience after the recall?
    A bad processing by the supplier.
    P.S. sorry for my bad English!!

    Aprilia Caponord 1200 Rosso Formula
    Aprilia Rst Futura '02
    Aprilia Caponord RR '04 "Gundam" o "Biscottone".
    Aprilia Pegaso Cube 650 '01 "La piccola".

  2. #17
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    Hey Bosnz

    Do you have any info on the recall on this issue? I'm close to pulling the trigger on a Rally and wanted to ask the dealer about the recall
    Thanks!

  3. #18
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    I have both the old and new part, and the printed numbers are different, +1 in front +2 in back, I could upload pictures, so its not the same part.

    (I purchased two sets of gear+axle, but only replaced the front, will replace the back in 2/3k kms)

    Also the copper bushing looks different, there is a empty space in the new part, while in the old one is continous... looks they fixed the problem.

    Also the front cylinder is very very quiet after the change and 1000kms.

  4. #19
    apriliaforum Junkie Darth Vader's Avatar
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    i did change timing gears on several bikes... why removing or loosig a handlebar ??? No need for that...

    BTW on shiver and dorso 750 it is possible to pull gear out of the head without of removing the chain from the bike... that makes job much easier... no need to remove clutch cover, only ignition cover to place timing tool on the rotor...
    Last edited by Darth Vader; 12-07-2017 at 04:47 PM.

  5. #20
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    if you see la list of 20 ítems, and you choose the one that is far, far away simplier than the rest and you question that... my god

    you need to loose or remove the handlebar to remove the gas tank...

    also, chain in the bikes you mentioned are one in one side, and the other in the another side... you cant remove both cam chains from the same side...

    are you sure you have knoledge on what you are talking about or just pure BS?

  6. #21
    apriliaforum Junkie Darth Vader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aleib View Post
    if you see la list of 20 ítems, and you choose the one that is far, far away simplier than the rest and you question that... my god

    you need to loose or remove the handlebar to remove the gas tank...

    also, chain in the bikes you mentioned are one in one side, and the other in the another side... you cant remove both cam chains from the same side...

    are you sure you have knoledge on what you are talking about or just pure BS?
    Sorry mate... Pure BS mate ... pure BS.... but from you...
    trying to help others not to do wrong and unnecessary things...

    You do not need to lose handlebar to remove the tank.... and there are others things written wrongly... anyway...To remove tank without of loosing handlebar you have to unplug fuel hose and fuel pump wiring, fuel level sender on the front, two breather hoses on both front side, than rise the rear end of the fuel tank and than slide it back...piece of cake....
    Both V2 configuration, 750 and 1200 are basically the same ...
    Front cylinder has a chain on the right hand side of the engine.. clutch side...
    Rear cylinder has a chain on the left hand side... ignition side...
    In both cases, if you want to do the job properly you have to recheck and readjust timing after changing timing gear... that is a MUST....
    for that job you need to attach timing tool instead of the magnet - rotor... it is possible to do that without of the tool with a bit of imagination, but timming must be checked and readjusted...sometimes nuts on the camshafts has to be loosen and gears on the camshafts has to be readjusted...

    Another info..
    If you changing timing gear on the rear cylinder, frame is on the way of the special bolt... It is enough to remove engine mounting bolts and jack engine up for approx 5-7 mm ... than is possible to remove the bolt...
    Last edited by Darth Vader; 12-08-2017 at 04:14 AM.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Vader View Post
    Sorry mate... Pure BS mate ... pure BS.... but from you...
    trying to help others not to do wrong and unnecessary things...

    You do not need to lose handlebar to remove the tank.... and there are others things written wrongly... anyway...To remove tank without of loosing handlebar you have to unplug fuel hose and fuel pump wiring, fuel level sender on the front, two breather hoses on both front side, than rise the rear end of the fuel tank and than slide it back...piece of cake....
    Both V2 configuration, 750 and 1200 are basically the same ...
    Front cylinder has a chain on the right hand side of the engine.. clutch side...
    Rear cylinder has a chain on the left hand side... ignition side...
    In both cases, if you want to do the job properly you have to recheck and readjust timing after changing timing gear... that is a MUST....
    for that job you need to attach timing tool instead of the magnet - rotor... it is possible to do that without of the tool with a bit of imagination, but timming must be checked and readjusted...sometimes nuts on the camshafts has to be loosen and gears on the camshafts has to be readjusted...

    Another info..
    If you changing timing gear on the rear cylinder, frame is on the way of the special bolt... It is enough to remove engine mounting bolts and jack engine up for approx 5-7 mm ... than is possible to remove the bolt...
    Also note that the rear timing chain tensioner interferes with the frame. Took two people to get that thing reassembled.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

  8. #23
    apriliaforum Junkie Darth Vader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dograt View Post
    Also note that the rear timing chain tensioner interferes with the frame. Took two people to get that thing reassembled.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
    Yes it is a bit of hasle... it is easier if you remove big bolt - spring cap on the end firstly and remove spring from inside.... with swivel socket is much easier...During assembling I usually change bolts for allen keys, found that helpfull...and than spring and than cap.. nerve wrecking sometimes... but it is worth of not removing the engine...

  9. #24
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    Hi Darth,

    I removed several times the fuel tank but not completely as I don't know how to disconnect the fuel pipe from the pump. Do you know how to disconnect the pipe?
    Following your recommendation, I ordered the special tool, both timing gears with washers and gaskets. Thank you for sharing your experience. I'll report how complex or difficult it is.
    Jean-Marc

  10. #25
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    Some pics from the front job (will do the back in 1000kms)

    Bosch IDH182 could not loose it:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    wáter pump out
    Click image for larger version. 

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    cant get the gear out wihtout removing the chain:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #26
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    cluth off, only the primary gear was left to remove the cain.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #27
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    The soud of the gear removed in post #1 made this sound:

  13. #28
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    i noted the intermediate gear for the 750 was the same part number as for the 1200. One Theory could be the extra torque is chewing these bearing surfaces up in the bigger motors, but some 750's have been failing too. Best theory is bad bearing material and improper tolerances from chinese bearing manufacturer. Still no recall from the factory though....shameful.

  14. #29
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    [QUOTE=aleib;4360371]I have both the old and new part, and the printed numbers are different, +1 in front +2 in back, I could upload pictures, so its not the same part.

    (I purchased two sets of gear+axle, but only replaced the front, will replace the back in 2/3k kms)

    Also the copper bushing looks different, there is a empty space in the new part, while in the old one is continous... looks they fixed the problem.

    It sounds like the old copper (I'm sure you mean brass) bushing without a groove to line up with an oil supply galley would be a major admission of incompetent engineering. Also noted in one of your pics looks like an oil galley in the casting not completely deburred prior to final assembly.


    Ciao!

  15. #30
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    just changed the back cylinder gear too... the engine is very quite now.. a lot of work... no need to move the engine in place, just loose the engine support and thats all.

    The problem was when we confirmed both parts, front and back are DIFFERENT different serial numbers....

    Thats probably (?) the reason why front cylinder fails first!

    I replaced both with new ones with the same part number....

    Whats going on with Aprilia?

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