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Thread: Tuono 2007 Rear Brake awful

  1. #46
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    If it were me and I had bought that I would file a claim with ebay for not as described. It is definitely not New Old Stock.
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  2. #47
    apriliaforum expert Jeff U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rvee View Post
    I have it all disassembled, here right outside of Manhattan I'm lucky enough to have a rented garage but it's strictly storage and no real allowance or room for major tools so I don't have a press. Maybe a POS hand drill will work since it's alum or I'm sure I can find a shop around here and go this route. I was hoping I could just order a non-flange push rod but I can't seem to find anything available on the AF1 parts search.

    While on this topic with experts, would brake cleaner be safe to clean the pressure side of my purchased rear MC? I want to get the gunk and rust out of there prior to even trying to use it.
    I meant a hand drill.

    That is what I used and it took all of about 5 minutes to file off

  3. #48
    apriliaforum expert Jeff U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rvee View Post
    I was hoping I could just order a non-flange push rod but I can't seem to find anything available on the AF1 parts search. ..
    This one will work. It is from the Mille parts list.



    One caveat, it is a bit longer than the OEM off your bike and you have to thread it all the way in and will need to leave off the adjustment nut.

    How do I know?

    Being somewhat of a mechanical klutz I managed to break the original one after putting it back together while attempting to make adjustments.

  4. #49
    apriliaforum Member Rvee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    If it were me and I had bought that I would file a claim with ebay for not as described. It is definitely not New Old Stock.
    I may. They had sent me the wrong item initially as well which had a 90 degree exit so I just got this one replaced. I don't know if I expected new as it was assembled as pictured but definitely did not expect it to be gunked and the shape it's in... the greatness that is ebay.

    And thanks Jeff U, that is helpful.

  5. #50
    apriliaforum expert Jeff U's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's part #8

    Part # 17 is the nut I had to leave off in order to thread it far enough in.

    With #17 in place it was too long and engaged the brake even with no pressure on the brake pedal.

    It now works great.

    With the flange gone and full range of motion in the master I can finally fully bleed the master. Follow KzMille instructions on bleeding the rear brake system.

    With the change I went from a wimpy, almost useless, rear brake to one that is firm and can easily lock up the rear tire.

  6. #51
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Why not shorten the rod rather than leaving the locknut off?
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  7. #52
    apriliaforum expert Jeff U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Why not shorten the rod rather than leaving the locknut off?
    A good point. I may try that.

    Threading the push rod all the way in (part #8 into #9) turned out to leave just the right length to engage the master cylinder. Since it is threaded all the way to the end you can get it pretty tight and it seems unlikely to move.

  8. #53
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Okay, if it was tightened then I don't see a problem.

    It would be very lucky for that to give you the perfect adjustment though. Shortening the end opposite the threads would allow you to retain adjustability.
    Last edited by kzmille; 11-18-2017 at 09:52 AM.
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  9. #54
    apriliaforum Member Rvee's Avatar
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    Thank you guys again for the help here. I finally managed to find some time and filed down the pushrod stopper, cleaned the heck out of my purchased MC and put it all back together... after much bleeding the kz way I have an incredibly FIRM rear brake (with 2-3mm travel prior to engagement) and am looking forward to warmer day to take it out for a test run.

    It was apparent when priming the MC that this one has a great amount of fluid pressure opposed to my original which was doing nothing.

  10. #55
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Just be sure the rod has some free play at the master piston.
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  11. #56
    apriliaforum Member Rvee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Just be sure the rod has some free play at the master piston.
    2-3mm. That didn't stop the pads from being incredibly tough to spread when re-attaching the caliper though! and I did stuff it with some cardboard when bleeding.

  12. #57
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    I'm not talking pedal travel but the actual clearance between the rod and piston. Factory spec is 0.5-1.0mm. Less will work as long as you know what you are doing but some clearance is advisable. 2-3mm is a lot more than needed. 0.5-1.0 at the piston translates to about 4mm at the pedal.

    If it was as hard as you say to push the pistons in it may be time to lubricate them. A light silicone grease/paste is the best thing to use.
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  13. #58
    apriliaforum expert Jeff U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Okay, if it was tightened then I don't see a problem.

    It would be very lucky for that to give you the perfect adjustment though. Shortening the end opposite the threads would allow you to retain adjustability.
    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Why not shorten the rod rather than leaving the locknut off?
    I took your advice and ground down the pushrod about a quarter inch. Itís enough to put the adjustment nut back on. Thanks for the suggestion.

  14. #59
    apriliaforum Junkie FZ1JOE's Avatar
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    When I bought the master cylinder from AF1 that helped. They make it so you have to cut the rod , it helped alot

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