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Thread: Rebuilding the front variator hub.

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the front variator hub.

    Have I done a pictorial on this? I can't remember? My old shitter demanded another belt the other day and the variator bearings have been sounding shitty for a while so I'm giving it a Christmas present.

    If I've posted up this before tell me to bugger off but if anyone's interested in this cheap and easy alternative to an expensive new variator hub I'll take a few pics and do a photoessay.

    You do need a brain and a press but apart from that it's fairly simple.

    Pete
    Professional Goat Burster.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum prov-nov jpsplus's Avatar
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    I am interesting

    thanks

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    apriliaforum Member Patrick Morin's Avatar
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    It sounds good,interested as well!

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    I'll hopefully get on to this a bit later. Should give some a laugh as when I started the rebuild I got a couple of bits mixed up because I kept stopping to take photo's and then couldn't work out why it wouldn't go back together for a minute or so! What a dunce!

    All back together now and, wonder of wonders! That useless POS P.A.D.S. Actually did everything it was supposed to do without crashing or screwing up once! Must be a lifetime first!

    Pete
    Professional Goat Burster.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert AndyT's Avatar
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    I'm looking forward to seeing the process, Pete. I understand the principal of the variator, but it's always good to see the details of how it works. I find you get a greater understanding, and therefore empathy, for the machine you are using rather than simply driving it without detecting the early signs of protest.

    I'm guessing P.A.D.S. has finally succumbed to your Ozzy charm...
    2009 Mana GT ABS; Andreani fork cartridges with uprated springs; Dorsoduro hand guards and heated grips; 30mm handlebar risers; Digital tachograph: Modified woodcraft folding brake pedal; R&G frame sliders

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Sorry, a few things cropped up. I will get round to this. I did manage a quick squit around Canberra this morning and, like every time I've re-belted, it feels like a new bike again. The nice thing is that with new bearings in the variator it no longer sounds like I'm being chased down the road by a helicopter until the engine gets hot

    Pete
    Professional Goat Burster.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert
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    How many miles were on the clock?

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    68,000km.
    Professional Goat Burster.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Damn, a lot of the pics failed to work, dunno why but here's a few that might help.

    This is essentially the assembly that needs taking apart.



    It sits on the end of the crank, the only thing inboard of it is the other half of the pulley.

    None of the pics of me pressing stuff apart worked unfortunately but essentially what you need to do is undo the big castelated nuts on the bearing retainers in the variator outer part and the locked sliding plate with the other threaded piece in. The castelated nut....



    is retained by a tab washer.



    note these pics were taken during my abortive reassembly where I stuck the inner hub in the wrong bearing so the pic is ONLY to show how the nut and tab washer work/sit!

    To get the bearing out of the threaded part of the sliding/locking plate you have to press the threaded part of the assembly off the backing plate. Its a press fit but is located by two small dowels. its important to line these up when pressing it back together!



    As seen from the underside of the plate.



    The bearings themselves are originally 6010LLB's, these are the ones with blue seals



    They are supposedly a heavier duty bearing, although they contain the same number of balls as the 6010LLU's I substituted. The LLB's are seemingly unavailable in Oz! The simple fact is though that the main reason the LLB's would be used is their supposedly 'Longer Life, (Something that becomes an irrelevance once the grease has dried out!) enabling the manufacturer to claim its a 'Lifetime' component and to only sell the assembly complete as a usuriously priced 'Spare Part'. Sorry, I'm not having any of that nonsense so LLU's it was. It'll still be cheaper even if I swap them out every belt change!

    I popped a seal off one of the new bearings so you could compare the grease content with that of the old 'Long Life' LLB



    Hmmmmmmmmm!

    Here's what to shop for.



    Once everything is apart you can give the threaded parts of the variator a really good clean, everything in the belt cavity gets absolutely filthy with a mixture of clutch dust, belt dust and general mank that gets drawn through it by the cooling fans. Spin them into one another a few times to make sure they move freely.



    Don't forget when reassembling the transmission that these threads need to be greased. Don't go bonkers, but make sure enough is on there for it to coat ALL the threads.

    When doing up the castelated nuts, (I just punch 'em round.) it is recommended that you use new lock washers every time you have the unit apart. You can get twice the life out of them though by swapping them around. That way you're using a new tab when the nut is tight.

    After doing the belt and potentiometer re-training I found out there were map updates for both ECU and TCU! Dunno if these are anything spectacularly new but I installed them, no real difference to anything I can easily detect. ECU mapping # here...





    Pete
    Professional Goat Burster.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert haga lout's Avatar
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    Thanks Pete once again I've saved all your tips in a file for when I need them for the scooter hopefully most will transfer over been told you don't need to train the belt as its in auto all the time don't know if this is right but will find out next year as its coming up to change mileage but may run past that till it throws a light there's no problem with that is there Pete as its running sweet

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete roper View Post
    68,000km.
    Do the pics make it appear worse than it really is? Did not expect that much wear and corruption at around 40,000 miles. Do you do much riding in brakish areas?

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert pete roper's Avatar
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    Nah, it's pretty dusty where I live in summer and I do a fair bit of dirt road when touring but most of the crap in the CVT is belt and clutch dust. There is quite noticeable wear on the pulleys but nowhere near as much as there was on Paul Solk's bike which was ridden almost exclusively in 'Sport Gear' mode.

    Pete
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  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert AndyT's Avatar
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    When I bought my GT I asked around about CVT drives and was warned to feel for notchy transmission which would indicate worn pulley cones. It was smooth as silk on the test ride and still is after several thousand miles. Done most of them in touring mode though, so obviously not stressing it too hard anywhere. Apparently it is possible to machine or sand the grooves out of the pulley faces on a lathe to restore smooth changes, but I don't know anybody who has tried it, so don't know how successful it is.
    2009 Mana GT ABS; Andreani fork cartridges with uprated springs; Dorsoduro hand guards and heated grips; 30mm handlebar risers; Digital tachograph: Modified woodcraft folding brake pedal; R&G frame sliders

  14. #14
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    Usually the CVT filter does a pretty good job of keeping it clean as long as you keep the filter clean and replace it before it gets too ratty. On my Sport City I clean the CVT filter every 3,000 miles since around here sugar sand and bird feathers tend to load it up pretty quickly and poor airflow with its related heat build up and will accelerate belt wear and drive face grooving. This would hold true for any CVT drive bike. Considering the greater cost of the Mana CVT and longer belt service intervals I was somehow expecting greater durability compared to the TGB variators and drive faces Piaggio uses in their scooters.

    When you clean up the drive face grooves as long as you don't cut it below minimum thickness your OK. The grooves are from riding at a constant speed and load so on an electronic CVT if you ride mostly in manual shift mode I would expect to see more pronounced grooving at each shift points location on the drive faces.

  15. #15
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    HAGAlout Srv has a completely different and simple variator set up ,it's simple to fix,replace etc .

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