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Thread: Stock Front Brake Rotors made Perfect for $0.00

  1. #76
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    When new the tabs are in contact with the disc or carrier so if your goal is to loosen them bend them away from disc and carrier. If the ends of the tabs are not in contact with the disc and carrier, someone has already modified them.

  2. #77
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Did it today and it didn't fix my low speed pulsing at all. Any tips? The buttons spin free now, I even used teflon spray.

  3. #78
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    Start looking for new discs. Releasing the buttons does not always help.

  4. #79
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Start looking for new discs. Releasing the buttons does not always help.
    But the pulsing is not at high speeds. Could it be the wheel?

  5. #80
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    If it doesn't do it at high speeds I doubt the wheel would be the cause.

  6. #81
    apriliaforum expert CorseKiwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kzmille View Post
    Start looking for new discs. Releasing the buttons does not always help.
    If you have ridden the bike for a while with warped rotors they will have worn unevenly. Loosening buttons will never stop the slow speed pulse. Your disc thickness will vary. New discs is the only solution.
    07 RSV 1000 Factory
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    05 Ducati 999S,07 Tuono 1000 R, 03 Tuono Racing, 06 Triumph 1050 Speed triple

  7. #82
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    Could someone upload the pics? I want to do this mod, but dont fully understand wich parts need to bend wich way

  8. #83
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    See #57
    01 Blue #84, 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Borla cans (Replaced by 2" pipe)/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, wiring mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, fuel pump rewire, FPR, vac hoses. Evap gone, CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. clutch & front line, RaceTech Gold fork, Cogent rebuilt Sachs, tapered head bearings. Added LED run lights/indicators/brake. All signals also run lights. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT, PCIII gone. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, rear petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd/hard soldered AC. L/R dash indicator lights, RG frame/fork sliders, vented screen.

  9. #84
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    Bringing this one up again with a quick question: How much longitudinal/rotational play with the rotors moving on the buttons is too much? I did this mod over a year ago and it has been great but the rotors seem to move a lot on the buttons now. I'm not having any problems, the brakes works great, but I'm wondering if there's a point where there is too much wear causing excessive movement. As in if there's a point where the buttons will get chewed up and possibly fracture under stress.

    BTW, this mod has been great. Combined with a really good cleaning and deglazing the rotor surface with a wire wheel to get rid of built up pad material 100% cured the vibrations. The key was cleaning and deglazing the rotors - I tried it at first without a good cleaning and it was maybe a 50% improvement. After a good cleaning all pulsations went away. Need to get that pad material out before the discs warp since excessive rotor runout causes pad material to built up rapidly and inconsistently creating invisible speedbumps of pad material that need to be removed.

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