Wiring Mod for charging issues.

[Sign Guy]

Is a terminal block with a 20 amp rating hearty enough to use for this?

[kzmille]

I've never measured the current in the stator circuits but When replacing the brown connector I used a terminal strip rated at 35 amps. The next size down did not look adequate.

[Sign Guy]

I have a new 30A terminal block on the way. My FH800 R/R got here today. It is a mosfet unit off of an '06 R6. The only issue is that it only has 5 wires, positive, negative and the 3 stator wires. I'm looking at the stock unit and it has what appears to me as two grounds, two positive leads and the 3 stator wires. Can I connect them to form 5 total wires? TIA!

[deefred]

I have a new 30A terminal block on the way. My FH800 R/R got here today. It is a mosfet unit off of an '06 R6. The only issue is that it only has 5 wires, positive, negative and the 3 stator wires. I'm looking at the stock unit and it has what appears to me as two grounds, two positive leads and the 3 stator wires. Can I connect them to form 5 total wires? TIA!

Yes you can

[comleader]

Which connectors should I purchase from the site below? The yellow wire mod has been done. I want to replace the white connector and put a connector back where the brown one was removed. I think with properly soldered and weather proof connectors, voltage should be fine. That's not say I wouldn't replace the rectifier though. Any automotive part that will replace it, like the starter solenoid?

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html

[Jaynen]

Similar questions as comleader

449 dollars later the state of california has finally made my fut legal again. I purchased a Bikepaintr recitifier a while back and want to do all of the wiring mods at the same time. I have done some soldering in the past but only basic hobby type stuff so would prefer to do something as idiot proof as possible. I do really like what Ericrayl did with the terminal block as it looks very nice and clean. Could I use any of the kits from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html and combined them with a terminal block?

[comleader]

So I put in the Rick's Hotshot R/R, the Ford starter relay, and the Delphi plugs for the connectors (crimped and soldered) and I get 12.6 Volts at the battery. Pretty disappointing after all that time and money, but it starts after just touching the starter button. Virtually no cranking at all (ok, maybe one).
I'm sure I did something wrong with the wiring, but can someone focus the search. Bike starts and runs fine. Regulator got just slightly warm after idling for 5 minutes or so. I'm confident the relay is installed correctly.

[Corkus]

So I put in the Rick's Hotshot R/R, the Ford starter relay, and the Delphi plugs for the connectors (crimped and soldered) and I get 12.6 Volts at the battery. Pretty disappointing after all that time and money, but it starts after just touching the starter button. Virtually no cranking at all (ok, maybe one).
I'm sure I did something wrong with the wiring, but can someone focus the search. Bike starts and runs fine. Regulator got just slightly warm after idling for 5 minutes or so. I'm confident the relay is installed correctly.

comleader, I purchased a set of Delphi Metri-Pack Weatherpack 480 and 630 connectors but after looking closely at all the pieces I lacked the confidence to try them. I'm sure others like Stanleybobly can make fine use of those babies, but not me. I liked the stock connectors and Bikepaintr's connectors way better.

I wonder if you can try to measure for a voltage drop across the metri-pack connectors (or other crimp solder joints?)? If they are working well you shouldn't see any voltage drop I'd think. - These are all just some random thoughts. I don't have the experience or skill to reply otherwise.

Good luck with your R/R install.

[comleader]

Thanks for the feedback Corkus. After reading some more posts in this thread, I checked the 30 amp fuses at the battery and one of them was blown. I suspect this is the problem. I too was a little surprised at the the lack of heft with the Delphi terminals, but everything I read from the racing community gave me the confidence to move ahead with the install.

I will post a follow up when I replace the fuse.

[bikpaintr]

12.6v is battery voltage, no charge from the rectifier & your blown fuse would be the cause. If you didn't disconnect the battery while you were doing the work you could have easily caused the fuse to blow. You should see 14.2v or better if you did a good job & the connectors should get no more then warm to the touch.

[comleader]

Yup, I was so anxious to get started that I committed the ultimate faux pax when working on an electrical system - not disconnecting from the power source.

[comleader]

Eureka! Replaced fuse and at idle battery is charging at 14.3 volts, rising to 14.5 - 14.7 at 4k RPM.

[bikpaintr]

14.7v with the headlight on? Seems pretty high. Does the bike have an extra feed wire added from the rectifier? If so I'd remove it.

[comleader]

Yes, with the headlight on. I don't think it has an extra feed wire. Just as you see it in the picture above. Three yellow wires coming from the stator, and the two grounds and two hots on the output side of the rectifier. Are you saying remove one of the grounds on the output side?

[bikpaintr]

No, I'm saying I've never seen that rectifier put out that high a charge rate without an extra positive wire added as in the Wiring Mod. You'd be up around 15v without the headlight. If there are no extra wires added remove & clean all of the grounds connections & see if it drops down a bit if you are sure you are getting accurate readings.