I think it's more down to chance - any connector with a poor crimp will be highlited by the higher voltage and current. If you've eliminated the brown connector block, the white one becomes the next weakest link.
I think it's more down to chance - any connector with a poor crimp will be highlited by the higher voltage and current. If you've eliminated the brown connector block, the white one becomes the next weakest link.
Yes and no.. As it seems of late the white connector is heating up pretty hot too. As John has mentioned before, it apears that the key here is making sure you have a really good connector or connection with BOTH white and brown (connectors) sets of wires. And that is what my goal was to do, get both sets a good overall connection. And the bladed type connectors available to me were not doing the trick.Originally Posted by new forest man
As I've mentioned before I'm not in favor of removing the brown or white connectors unless they have failed. The white connector is used on most bikes on the road today with no problems so its design is not causing the heat problems. My advice is to remove the wires, solder all the crimp connections & put the connectors back together after making sure the male/female spades fit tightly. Once you remove the source of the heat the spades won't be loosening up from the heating/cooling cycles. If you compare the wire size on the Futura its no smaller then what you find on a Honda or BMW so I don't see this as the source of our problems. If soldering the crimps doesn't cool down the wires/connectors then look at doing some version of the wiring mod to eliminate the multiple connections between the white plug/ battery & improve your grounds.
John B.
02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.
How do you pop them out with out damaging the connectors themselves.
"The fact is that sport-touring is about delicious movement, freedom to go slowly and relax or to turn the throttle and run, with just enough of your favorite stuff in the saddlebags."--CW
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nero ash color | colder fuel disconnect | derestricted air intake | blinder laser jammer | throttlemeister | invisiguard paint protection | carbon fiber hugger | ohlins rear shock | ohlins fork re-valve | ohlins steering damper | R&G crash protectors | iridium spark plugs | apex SS lines | corbin backrest for 2-up riding | dark wheels customized | borella rectifier | pivot covers | k&n air filter | HIDx1 | pazzo shorty race levers | gixxer mirrors | Kisan Relay Flashers + Running Lights
Use a very tiny screwdriver to push in the lip on the spades. Works well. The spades just pop in whene you push them back in.
Funny, I had never done this before I had a Futura. Now it seems to come natural.
This Must Be The Place
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- Futura '03 - shelved what's not sold.
- 2010 Honda VFR1200F. Remus Ti can, Bazzaz Z-Bomb restriction eliminator.
No, the white wires stay cool to the touch and the brown connector wires still get warm, but not enough to ever cause a problem. I took temp probe readings before and after and while I can't recall them at the moment, there was a substantial difference on the yellow wires.
I can't find the post with my voltage readings but I had 2 versions. The 1st was just after doing the wiring mod with the connectors still on. My results were similar to others that have done it. I was not happy with the guage wire or the soldering job I did so I removed the white connector 1st and installed the crimps. That allowed me to add #12 THHN to (+) and (-) feeds. I took new readings and they were slightly higher than anything I have seen documented at the time at idle and at 4k. I don't recall exactly what they were sorry, but both idle and 4k were in the 14v's. I later removed the brown connector and put in the crimps, which cooled the wires even more to the touch.
HTH
Use a very tiny screwdriver to push in the lip on the spades. Works well. The spades just pop in whene you push them back in.
Funny, I had never done this before I had a Futura. Now it seems to come natural.Works like a champ.
both melted on me after updating to John's reg/rec. both connectors can have problems.
Ian
Same Here AprilIan. they both Suck! by the way I want a copy of the full size photo you use for an avitar!!!!!! WooohOoo0
Bob
The 2012 INDY MOTO GP Topic is now open. Join us for a great time in INDY!
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=217305
"Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."--James Madison
for you, anything, it's on it's way! It came from a cannonball run website.Same Here AprilIan. they both Suck! by the way I want a copy of the full size photo you use for an avitar!!!!!! WooohOoo0
Bob
Ian
Doug, unless every other RST I've ever seen is wrong, your plate is on upside down.
“The road’s what counts...don’t worry about where it’s goin’."
- Sam Shepard
"When I'm riding my motorcycle, I'm glad to be alive. When I stop riding my motorcycle, I'm glad to be alive."
-Neil Peart
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'02 Ash Black RST (w/ black wheels!)Stainedtunas,AF1 H-pipe,PCIII,EVO race airbox kit & filter, Mille intake boot, Tuono forks w/Ohlins revalve, Ohlins Rear Shock,Brembo 4 pad calipers and Radial Masters,(999) 320mm Sunstar rotors, Goodridge steel lines, Borella Reg/Rec w/silver solder crimp upgrade, R&G Frame sliders (one used), Zumo 550 GPS, Flux Capacitor, Hubcap Diamond Star Halo, Vintage BEF plate bracket, T'meisters, Michelin Pilot Road 2s,.
2009 Ducati 848 track bike
Considering that my bike was new on April 15 and I never flipped it around...how do you suppose it is backwards? The way it is installed now it appears that the lower body panel opening...ah hell, i don't know.
I learned a couple things tonight as embarked on soldering the connectors (with plugs):
1) I am a terrible solderer and;
2) putting the brown connector back together again is a royal pain!
I only finished half the job tonight completing just the male ends. Tomorrow night are the female ends.
Is it possible for me to have worsened the problem by a bad solder job? I hate to think of that!
"The fact is that sport-touring is about delicious movement, freedom to go slowly and relax or to turn the throttle and run, with just enough of your favorite stuff in the saddlebags."--CW
_____________________________________________
nero ash color | colder fuel disconnect | derestricted air intake | blinder laser jammer | throttlemeister | invisiguard paint protection | carbon fiber hugger | ohlins rear shock | ohlins fork re-valve | ohlins steering damper | R&G crash protectors | iridium spark plugs | apex SS lines | corbin backrest for 2-up riding | dark wheels customized | borella rectifier | pivot covers | k&n air filter | HIDx1 | pazzo shorty race levers | gixxer mirrors | Kisan Relay Flashers + Running Lights
I don't think so...Considering that my bike was new on April 15 and I never flipped it around...how do you suppose it is backwards? The way it is installed now it appears that the lower body panel opening...ah hell, i don't know.
I learned a couple things tonight as embarked on soldering the connectors (with plugs):
1) I am a terrible solderer and;
2) putting the brown connector back together again is a royal pain!
I only finished half the job tonight completing just the male ends. Tomorrow night are the female ends.
Is it possible for me to have worsened the problem by a bad solder job? I hate to think of that!
Doug.. I think if you look at post 148 you will see the plate does go inward. Maybe the dealer put it on upside down... Just a thought... I had to look at mine again.. Mine will only go on one way....
A bad solder job doesn't accomplish much so get a friend over there that can do the job right. Usually its just a matter of not getting the part hot enough to flow the solder or the wires are dirty & you need to use some flux.
John B.
02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.
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