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Thread: Valves and stuff

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Valves and stuff

    Another new for me adventure checking the valves. Pleasantly surprised to find them all in spec, the front intake even toward the looser end. This is with about 60K from last known check. Wow, these buggers really do stay stable. I found the top of the tulip crudded up somewhat on the front intake valves, the back looked clean. I assume this is related to the unmatched fuel delivery front and rear? Since it's apart it's time for the cannister to come off too. I'm good with it BUT does the line from the tank to canister just get plugged? Yes, I'm reviewing the posts on this.
    After going through this process of checking, using a home made locking tool, I really have to take my hat off to those that have degree'd their cams, holy crap. It was challenging for me never having done a rotax or bike at all but it always is the first time, but certainly challenging enough. The good news is apparently I won't have to bother checking again for a long while. Not so good pics of intakes:
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    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I never lock the engine in position when I check my valves.
    As long as the cam is pointing in the opposite direction compared to the valve bucket I´m happy.

    I get crud on the rear valve which is near the crankshaft vent in the airbox.

    You can pour some concentrated valve cleaner at the valve when it is closed position and see if it can clean it up.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Do you mean a fuel system cleaner or is there something more specific?
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Yes, something like that.

    I don´t have a specific name for you as I haven´t tried it myself.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    I wonder if a slight vac leak could contribute to the cleaner valves? I'm revisiting all the plumbing as said and I may have found one in the rear intake. Hm. Looks like an experiment will take place, it'll be interesting to see if a fuel cleaner in the gas may change things over time, now I have a good use for the fiber optic probe. I'm a bit reluctant to just apply directly to valve head though as long as I can spin it without plugs should prob be ok to try.
    Perhaps carb cleaner directly at valves? May try that before buttoning everything up.
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I suspect everyone's valves have that some clean, some crudded up look. I just don't look down there. Probably the only good way to get rid of it is to replumb that crankcase evnt.

    Do you have a charcoal evap canister?

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    As of now yes, but I'm planning on removing it to get rid of the extra plumbing not a matter of weight. The fewer hoses the better.
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Argh Oh View Post
    As of now yes, but I'm planning on removing it to get rid of the extra plumbing not a matter of weight. The fewer hoses the better.
    Fewer he better indeed!

    Yer a long way from Cal. How'd that happen?

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    The bike started there, original owner purchased it as a demo approx 3.5K miles. It's been around the country a lot, CA, GA, UT, KY now here in good ol Abalama. These are the places I'm aware of. Cannister off, man there's a lot of hose. Replaced a few more again and made sure the connections were nice and tight. A few more things to be aware on on the checklist. BTW, the vent hose from the tank can be left open, yes? With a hose on it of course. I'm still kinda jacked about getting the valves checked! Woot!
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum Junkie spesnaz's Avatar
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    Argh, best carbon deposit cleaner I've seen is Berryman's B12 carburetor cleaner.

    With the valves closed, spray some down into the port to soak the valve. I like to use a shop rag and compressed air to blow the detritus from the port.

    Oh, mine had a "canisterectomy" from the previous owner. Run two parallel vent / drain lines from the rear of the tank. Easy peasy. BE SURE to use fuel-rated hose, the vapors will turn basic hose into a disaster over time.

    Bob

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    Yup, done. There was enough leftover hose to do that. I'll look for carb cleaner. Back to the laundry list.
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10awg & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash.

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