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Thread: Rear Eccentric Re-assembly

  1. #1
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    Rear Eccentric Re-assembly

    All my replacement O-rings and stuff arrived, so I'm ready to reassemble my rear drive (replacing the rear disc turned into a much bigger project than I expected!)

    The rear brake caliper carrier (unnumbered, but it's that weird-shaped alloy piece between circlip 7 and o-ring 9 with a big hole that goes around the axle, and a small slot that goes around a stanchion) doesn't slide all the way onto the right side of the eccentric...

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    it gets hung up on the O ring (8) and won't slide in enough to clear the slot for circlip (7). When I assemble without the O ring, it goes on easily.

    Is there a trick to getting the carrier on with the O ring in place? The weird shape and the extra slot that has to line up makes it hard to force / squeeze / hit with a plastic hammer.

  2. #2
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    Bar clamps.
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  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Have you tried a light coat of grease on the o-ring and the bracket? Best to have it lubed anyway.

    If push comes to shove, you could ever so lightly relieve/bevel the inner edge of that bracket to help it ease over the o-ring.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert
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    The O ring groove is probably packed out with corrosion, clean it out with a scraper. (screwdriver) When you say "goes on easily" without the O ring, does it go back far enough for a circlip? If so it can't be much else. I had a lot of corrosion on the eccentric where the bracket fits, at the back in the corner and had to scrape out the corner to let the bracket slide on far enough, and then grease all faces till the next time.
    No way at all should it need clamps, if it needs clamps - it needs the cause found

  5. #5
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    While you are in there -- have you had a look at the square block at the top of the slot in that bracket? It should spin freely on the bolt. If there are dents in the slot they imply that the block is seized. When that block seizes it jams the chain adjuster, and the dents are from people trying to force the chain adjuster when the bracket (with the O ring) can't rotate because of that (stupid little) block of metal. To free it, soak the bolt & block overnight in coca cola, clean it up, light grease and presto -- the chain adjuster is free as you like.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    +1 for the above. Mine was fully stuck. Pack it with grease after its clean and free to rotate.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bossbob View Post
    The O ring groove is probably packed out with corrosion, clean it out with a scraper. (screwdriver) When you say "goes on easily" without the O ring, does it go back far enough for a circlip? If so it can't be much else. I had a lot of corrosion on the eccentric where the bracket fits, at the back in the corner and had to scrape out the corner to let the bracket slide on far enough, and then grease all faces till the next time.
    No way at all should it need clamps, if it needs clamps - it needs the cause found
    Shoot, I thought I'd replied to this thread. I had cleaned out the slot and lubed the old O ring, but it didn't go together. (I was mostly test-fitting before risking a final assembly with my new O ring.)

    The new O ring was significantly smaller than the old one, so I think the old one probably lost its stretch and wasn't really grabbing into the slot -- maybe enough was even out of the slot to get pinched by the carrier bracket.

    Anyway, the new O ring, lubed, was still too tight for hand assembly (at least for my old weak grip) but light pressure from bar clamps gave it a satisfying seat, and the eccentric adjusts pretty smoothly. (I used graphite & teflon on the eccentric barrel and swingarm surfaces, but it didn't seem to make much difference. But I figured you don't have to adjust it that often anyway, plus dirt gets in the slot by the pinch bolts, so it's not a good spot to spend effort making it buttery smooth.)

  8. #8
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    Man, there is an unreasonably large number of screws, clips, special hardware, gadgets, widgets, Belleville washers and shit in the back end of this bike. But I have all my tools outside, and no leftover parts, so there's at least a chance I got it back together right. I think I'm gonna change the oil early, just so I don't have to look at the insides again for a while.

    I wish I was better at keeping things clean (or cleaning them when I have the chance) but I usually just end up smearing grease around, so it's not any cleaner, just differently dirty. But if the wheels stay on, I'll go cover everything with a nice layer of exotic high-desert bug guts and you won't be able to see the grease. ;-)

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert photoRotor's Avatar
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    Glad you got it reassembled. We should plan a NW Fut ride this summer.
    JD

    '01 Futura

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacewrench View Post
    Man, there is an unreasonably large number of screws, clips, special hardware, gadgets, widgets, Belleville washers and shit in the back end of this bike. But I have all my tools outside, and no leftover parts, so there's at least a chance I got it back together right. I think I'm gonna change the oil early, just so I don't have to look at the insides again for a while.

    I wish I was better at keeping things clean (or cleaning them when I have the chance) but I usually just end up smearing grease around, so it's not any cleaner, just differently dirty. But if the wheels stay on, I'll go cover everything with a nice layer of exotic high-desert bug guts and you won't be able to see the grease. ;-)
    Truly complicated indeed. I also have an FZ07 yamaha and someone was thinking of converting the back end of theirs to a single sided swinger - just cause it looked cool. I told him to do a search here for king bearing fun and mentioned how expensive some of the big parts can get.

    It sure makes it nice to change a tire or adjust the chain, but a need to service anything in that hub (or replace the rotor) quickly makes everyone wish it was just a plain old 2 arm swinger.

    Don't forget to snug those 2 clam shell bolts sequentially in small stages. Don't want that casting making an ugly loud "crack" just as yer almost finished.

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