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Thread: Should engine oil be leaking from here...?! Clutch Slave

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Member Cipher's Avatar
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    Should engine oil be leaking from here...?! Clutch Slave

    Here I thought I was finally ready to ride after all of the things I have fixed this summer but now I'm having another issue. I started the bike and let it warm up. While I was suiting up I noticed that there were some drops underneath the exhaust near the sidestand. Upon closer inspection I noticed it was oil. So after tearing the fairings off and looking around, I discovered it was coming from the new MPL Clutch Slave I installed this summer. I took it off and started the engine back up and noticed engine oil was coming out from around the post the clutch slave goes onto. I took a photo of it so you can see what I'm talking about.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I don't know what to make of it. I don't know if oil normally comes from there or not. I never had a leak before with the OEM clutch slave. Today was the first time I've had it running longer than 5 minutes since I installed the new MPL slave. Is this indicative of a bigger problem?? Another thing I noticed was that I wasn't seeing any oil in the sight glass even though I had let the bike warm up to 204 F. I put in the exact amount of oil prescribed for a oil and filter change. I don't know if I put in too much and it's leaking from the post the slave goes on as a result? But if that were the case, I should be seeing the oil level shoot to the top of the glass once it gets pressurized and warmed up, no?

    I guess I won't get a ride in this season after all.
    Last edited by Cipher; 09-16-2012 at 05:12 PM.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum newb
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    Hmmm, interesting. I recently installed the MPL slave also, and since have noticed trace amounts of oil run down my centerstand/kickstand after being parked. Initially I thought it was hydraulic fluid from the clutch, but have ruled that out and determined it to be engine oil. I haven't inspected closely enough to see if my leak is coming from around the same post like yours or not. I always see oil in the sight gauge, so I don't have any answers for you concerning that...

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Member Cipher's Avatar
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    Yeah that was the first thing that came to my mind... "Is there something wrong with the clutch slave?". I didn't think so because the oil was thicker and yellower than brake fluid. I was just googling this and I did find some very informative topics on this very issue. I've only been scouring some topics for 5 minutes but here's one regarding our Aprilia engines.

    Oily Mess - clutch pushrond oil seal?

    They say it could be the pushrod seal. Fortunately I don't have to take the engine apart to replace it if I go by what they're saying in that topic. I was reading a topic about a 1st gen VFR and they had to take their engine apart to replace the seals. They say I can just pull the pushrod out and replace the seals either with a genuine aprilia part or one from a local bearing place. I'd have to figure out what size I need first but there are some local places where I think I could pick some up. Of course the guy in the topic was still having a slow leak even after he replaced the seal. One person suggested taking it out and using RTV silicone sealant. I saw in another topic I think about a ducati where someone suggested putting heat shrink tubing over the pushrod and applying heat to it to shrink it to size thus increasing the diameter of the rod and giving it a better seal.

    All good suggestions... now I have to just figure out what size seal I need.

    [edit]
    Aha! I think I found out what size I need! If I'm looking at it right, it's part #24 in this diagram of the RST Futura Crankcase II. The size is 12x28x7. Now to find out where I can get a part quickly around my area...

    I tried pulling it out by hand but it would only move out about half an inch or so then wouldn't budge. So, I think I'm going to reference the shop manual for the correct way to replace the seal before I do any damage.

    Also, I looked in my file folder where I keep all of my Futura maintenance receipts and found the local place that I picked up the dust seals for the front wheel from. It's actually a chain called Motion Industries. I did a search for oil seals in the dimensions above and came up with several results from different brands for cheaper than what AF1 is asking for the Aprilia part. I could most likely go pick it up tomorrow. I'm not really concerned so much about the price, it's just the convenience of picking it up locally, plus no shipping fees. I think I'm going to go with Item #02366715. It's the most expensive one at $18.79 and seems to offer the longest life and highest tolerances compared to the others.
    Last edited by Cipher; 09-16-2012 at 10:33 PM.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    I think I may have a slight weep at the same place and has already bought the replacement seal from Aprilia.
    I think the clutch push rod needs to be removed first to be able to pull the seal out.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #5
    apriliaforum Member zag07's Avatar
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    The right size for the seal of the clutch rod is 11x22x7 mm . The size 12x28x7 is for the speed selector shaft, I made the same error last year when I've to replace clutch push rod seal.
    To do that , you've to take off the push rod by the other side. Don't necessary to drain motor oil , work with bike on side stand then at the same time check the bush bearing (roulement de butée in french)
    In France I buy the seal directly on the net for 11$ : http://www.joint-spi.com/product.php?id_product=616
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Here is the direct link to AF1 for this seal http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scrip...idproduct=2307
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie threeviews48's Avatar
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    I did it earlier this year, Zag's procedure is correct, it is easy

    Quote Originally Posted by zag07 View Post
    The right size for the seal of the clutch rod is 11x22x7 mm . The size 12x28x7 is for the speed selector shaft, I made the same error last year when I've to replace clutch push rod seal.
    To do that , you've to take off the push rod by the other side. Don't necessary to drain motor oil , work with bike on side stand then at the same time check the bush bearing (roulement de butée in french)
    In France I buy the seal directly on the net for 11$ : http://www.joint-spi.com/product.php?id_product=616

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cipher View Post
    I was reading a topic about a 1st gen VFR and they had to take their engine apart to replace the seals.
    If true, that represents an "improvement" over older Hondas where you could just pull the seal out of the case and install another... no disassembly required.
    If I just gave you mechanical, personal, legal or medical advice, it's up to you to get a proper diagnosis from a qualified expert.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum prov-nov dschumann's Avatar
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    Motion Industries has a location near you in Rockford and the seal for under $4.

    MOTION INDUSTRIES
    3483 LONERGAN DRIVE
    ROCKFORD, IL 61109
    Phone: (815) 874-9461
    Fax: (815) 874-6550


    National

    11 X 22 X 7 Metric Oil Seal

    Item No. 00602573
    __________________________________________
    2001 Futura, 1991 Ducati 851

  10. #10
    apriliaforum Member Cipher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zag07 View Post
    The right size for the seal of the clutch rod is 11x22x7 mm . The size 12x28x7 is for the speed selector shaft, I made the same error last year when I've to replace clutch push rod seal.
    To do that , you've to take off the push rod by the other side. Don't necessary to drain motor oil , work with bike on side stand then at the same time check the bush bearing (roulement de butée in french)
    In France I buy the seal directly on the net for 11$ : http://www.joint-spi.com/product.php?id_product=616
    Thanks Zag for your very informative post! I had read this topic later on during the day after you posted your response. I immediately called Motion Industries and ordered the correctly sized part. They had already sent my other seal on it's way too. The seal I ordered is only $3.94 so it's actually going to save me money compared to the other part I ordered. If it wasn't for your post, I wouldn't have so easily found where I should be looking in my engine manual for the process of removing the clutch rod. Your pictures are excellent and really help but having step by step instructions in the manual are also a big help.

    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    Here is the direct link to AF1 for this seal http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scrip...idproduct=2307
    Thanks deefred! Although I've decided to go with the seal from Motion Industries, I'm sure this will be very helpful to someone else who might else order the wrong part like I did.

    Quote Originally Posted by dschumann View Post
    Motion Industries has a location near you in Rockford and the seal for under $4.

    MOTION INDUSTRIES
    3483 LONERGAN DRIVE
    ROCKFORD, IL 61109
    Phone: (815) 874-9461
    Fax: (815) 874-6550


    National

    11 X 22 X 7 Metric Oil Seal

    Item No. 00602573
    Thanks dschumann! I wasn't able to pick up the part after I left your house because they closed at 5 and I couldn't make it from your house to there without some serious speeding. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow after I get off work and get to work on it. I wasn't sure where it was located but with that address I discovered it's right on my way so that'll save me a lot of time. I'll post up some comparison pictures between the seals when I get the old one out, hopefully tomorrow evening.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Here's that page in the manual showing the Loctite on that nut. Dunno if it's an absolute or you can get away w/o
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  12. #12
    apriliaforum Member Cipher's Avatar
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    Ah ok, I will pick some of that loctite up then. Thanks Ras! I picked up my part at Motion Industries today although I haven't been able to install it yet. We had family over tonight. I noticed when I went into Motion Industries that they had loctite products there so they might have it on hand.

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Cleaned it and watch where it came out.....
    Turned out motoroil from the conrod oilseal.


    Slipped a pvc sleeving over the rod. For not scratching the rod....Hit the screw with hammer.
    Heatened with heatgun.and pulled with a plier.



    Size seal: 11-22-7

    With old seal and protective sleeving over the rod.
    Hit it in place...
    hank to this thread. İ found my cause..

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    After a week it started leaking again!

    İs this a special High Pressure seal or something?
    The one inside is a normal seal 11-22-7 . according the seller it withstands max. 0,5 Bar

    Some note:
    The rod self is not smooth.has scratches from the manufacturing process. Shall İ polish it?
    Last edited by Stanleybobly; 05-07-2015 at 01:18 PM.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Are you sure the dimension of the old seal is the same as the new?

    Cannot see any harm in polishing the rod but if the scratches were there from manufacturing why did the old seal survive for several years in that case.....
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

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