at the fuses, next to the starter solenoid
at the fuses, next to the starter solenoid
sorry, misunderstood. Will check it tonight and reply.I was asking about heat in the wiring harness coming from the stator(3 yellow wires) & the brown connector.
They are NOT supplying my new wire to the battery. These 2 are supplying the front fuses. Somewhere inside a hose they are connected to each other. look at the pix.You said you tied both feed wires from the rectifier together into one connector which is now supplying juice to your new wire running directly to the main fuse box under the seat.
The new wire to the fuse under the seat is connected to the second connector on the rectifier.
The existing red/blk on the fuse under the seat is now a end connected nowhere. Just isolated it.
Doing my best, my english could be better....
OK ..... I thought that is what you had done, but could not understand why.The existing red/blk on the fuse under the seat is now a end connected nowhere. Just isolated it.
If you had left it in place and added the new 6mm you would have increased the cable size to the front fuses, see my picture above. It is after all the same cable just having done a lap of the frame
Great find BTW I have been wracking my brains for ages and was certain the fault was in the charging but would not have come up with wires too small.
A very fine piece of diagnostics if I might say so
It's just bloody marvelous ...... we understoodDoing my best, my english could be better....
I also liked the "bike pusher" translation ...... does that make us junkies?
I think you are definitely due some
bossbob you did not disconnect or cut the wires? Only making a bigger wire to the fuse, and kept the original wiring?I have joined the two R/B's at the rec with another heavy brown (4mm) wire making a joint of 3
Absolutely correct .......Only making a bigger wire to the fuse, and kept the original wiring?
If the issue was too little cable...... why take some out
You are absolutely right. I see it now. More work to do...If you had left it in place and added the new 6mm you would have increased the cable size to the front fuses, see my picture above.
So let me get this straight. Very difficult when trying to understand 2 foreigners (Scot & Dutch). Disconnect the R/B wire from the battery end & isolate. Replace it with a thicker wire that runs to the rectifier and solder onto the R/B wires. Yes???
My brown connector at the rectifier melted so I hard wired straight to the loom. The yellow wires still get warm but I shall try this mod and see if it makes a difference.
Rab how come you have a white connector end floating around with lovely coloured wires and tape? Is it not supposed to be connect to anything?
[ZZR1400 190bhp, Baglux tank cover, 14.4v charging,ABS,TomTom GPS, double bubble, hugger, crash bungs, heated grips, permanant grin, fluffy dice ]
NODisconnect the R/B wire from the battery end & isolate
I disconnected nothing .....
I added two wires .......
One from the red/blk at the fuses (next to the solenoid) which went to the red/blk at the reg/rec
And One from the negative of the battery to the blue at the reg/rec
I also joined the two blues together, as one
and soldered the two red/blk's together as one.
that was it.........
p.s. the connector has just not been plugged together again, the other half is the red & green wire in the background......
Wrong... Scot and Norwegian...(Scot & Dutch).
An English spoken should make a description step by step how to do this mod. It will probably fix most starting problem, battery problem an charging problem. We might test it for a few days before we advise other to do it? Going for a ride now, reply later this evening.
bossbob, a job for you to make the description?
yer a star - of to check bike now
Been out riding for 2 hours. Started with fully charged battery(optimate on for a hour). Charging voltage 14,1V when the bike warmed up. Checked the yellow stator cables after 3 minutes idling. No heat at all. First went just around the corner for refuelling. From day one the fuel gauge had gone to "F" after 3 to 5 km riding after refuelling. Today it went to "F" after 10 seconds..... Higher voltage???
Had a short break after an hour. When I started the bike again it was possible to hear it on the starter that it was more power.
Tested the charging voltage direct on the battery when I returned. Did`nt stop the bike. 14,1 V on idle, lo beam and heated grips on. Turned on hi beam (reconnected on my bike, all 3 bulbs on) and voltage dropped to 12,9V. Still on idle. Turned the trottle to 3000 rpm and the voltage went back to 14, 1V with hi beam on. Checked the yellow stator cables and brown connector again. No heat. Checked the themperature on the rec. Warm but not hot. No problem holding my fingers hard to the ribs.
Right now I can`t see any problem with this mod??
I thought you wanted someone who spoke English?bossbob, a job for you to make the description?
Gee I don't know Hans....dunno if Rab has any experience with 'lectrics.
If he did, he'd have come up with this mod long ago.
This Must Be The Place
2015 (okay 2016 for the yanks) Tuono V4 1100 Factory. 4th Aprilia since 1999 and never owned a Mille!
Michelin PR4 120/190, 2 SW-Motech 12V tank bags, Brembo RCS 19, Arrow Dark, Race Map
If only I was always convinced it was a charging issue but don't think I'd of come round to "wiring" for a long time. I was on the verge of an after market reg/rec to prove the point. It remains a very fine piece of diagnosticsdunno if Rab has any experience with 'lectrics. If he did, he'd have come up with this mod long ago.
Likewise. I went a run and checked the voltages when I got back ..... they are virtually identical to hansb's.Right now I can`t see any problem with this mod??
It isn't really a mod, as such, all I have done is put a bigger cable alongside the smaller original one, if it didn't need it, it wouldn't use it.
There is a small chance it was running better, as I churned things over in my mind on the ride, higher voltage probably means a better spark, a more stable supply for the electronics, specifically the fuel injectors, their timing and the accuracy of their duration.
It may be that the large discrepancy in MPG could be down to the different voltages. Time will tell.
More importantly, should we have to do this mod ??
I really didn't enjoy doing that to the bike, it isn't pretty and nor should it be neccessary. Having identified the cause and solution, surely there is a route to have the matter addressed officially, put it right back on the doorstep of Aprilia and get corrective action, be that a recall or a fix arranged some other way. They can't deny they are aware, IB12 had his stator wires soldered by the dealer because they knew of connectors melting, truth is, they couldn't be bothered to find the cause and sort it
enough for now.......
I ran all this info by Ritzo at Electrexusa today to see what he had to say about the mod. His suggestion was to leave the two rectifier + wires separate & disconnect / tape off the two factory red/black wires from the connector replacing them with 2 wires which would run directly to the red/black terminal in the main fuse box. These would be soldered onto the red/black spade from the factory feed at the f/b. The front fuse box would take it's feed from here instead of at the rectifier. He also suggested running 2 ground wires from the rectifier plug directly to the battery ground soldering them on to a single connector at the battery. Pretty much what you guys have done but he felt the two wires were better then one large one. I'm going to give this a try in the next few days & I'll let you know what kind of numbers I see. On another note Electrex will be assigning a part number for the Futura to one of their existing rectifiers which they've matched from pics and specs I sent in so we will have an aftermarket rectifier option thats readily available.
You guys rock!
If I just gave you mechanical, personal, legal or medical advice, it's up to you to get a proper diagnosis from a qualified expert.