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Thread: Just bought new 2009 sportcity 250

  1. #136
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    ya synthetic , but this happened after I put on the rear tire so I figure it has something to do with that. only 30k miles.

  2. #137
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    Did you potentially get the spacers etc out of order and now have the rear wheel binding the brakes?

    Any odors from the rear wheel after riding for a bit? An infrared thermometer can sometimes help pinpoint binding by the heat it causes.


    Here's and example of how handy an infrared thermometer can be as a diagnostic tool:

    My brother had a hot electronics smell in his house that was intermittent so by the time it was noticeable the cause had stopped making it difficult to pinpoint. Standing in the middle of the room with an infrared thermometer in his hand and waving it around showed him higher temps coming from a wall with a closet on the other side which had a breaker box in the back of it. The breaker for the clothes dryer was getting hot where it contacted the busbar even though it was not obvious when you opened the door. By the time it got hot enough to make an obvious smell the dryer had finished its cycle and it was already cooling down. Being Florida the closet has a fully louvered door so the smell was not really concentrated in the closet making it harder to pinpoint especially after the dryer had already finished its cycle and shut off. The busbar was damaged badly enough that when the breaker was replaced they had to put it into another location in the panel. They will be coming back to replace that main panel and relocate it so its no longer in a closet meeting the current building code. The panel is over 50 years old now so it had a good long run.

  3. #138
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    The wheel spins freely while i have the bike on and warming up before a ride. Though I did just realize that the belt/rollers are due to be changed out now. I need to look at the valves as well.

  4. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fresno View Post
    I tend to keep my tires at max psi. I don't know what else would keep the bike limited. When cycle gear put on the rear tire, they mentioned that they didn't have the adapter to fit my tire on the balancer so they didn't end up balancing the tire. Perhaps an unbalanced rear tire is adding to it.
    cycle gear doesn't have cones? Real simple to do scooter rims. Put 1 cone through and turn the other one around to center it. But I'm guessing the genii at CG couldn't come up with a solution.

  5. #140
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    Yes dot the I's and cross those T's as far as valve and CVT maintenance go. Don't overlook regular CVT filter cleanings too. I will clean it every 2,000 to 3,000 miles and after any long ride where its particularly dusty/sandy such as shore line or country back roads. A clean cool CVT is a happy one.

  6. #141
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    So I am working my way to take off the transmission cover. I managed to remove 2 air filter bolts on the bottom of the air filter box which allows me to move the air filter box up and out of the way somewhat.

    Then I start on removing the transmission cover bolts. I notice some oil dropping on the floor and its coming from the bolt area right below the oil fill plug. So my question is ; I am assuming I need to dump out the oil before taking off the transmission cover ? I put the bolt back and the oil stopped seeping out.

    Edit: yeah I'm watching the video now and He (Robot ) does drain the oil before cracking open the belt cover. Watching the vespa videos really help, I see where I took out the wrong bolts so I fixed that.

    Also doing valves for the first time. I have it so the feeler gauge drags on the valves lightly. My valves were actually about 4k miles past due so they were too tight to fit the feelers through. I suspect that could be the reason for loss of the top end.
    Last edited by Fresno; 11-06-2017 at 07:40 PM.

  7. #142
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    While dropping the engine on my BV250 I had to remove one of the oil sump bolts and with out thinking I left it loose an found a small puddle the next day. You need to look carefully when pulling the CVT cover and see where it ends and the sump begins. The oil was black and thin so I doubt the previous owner had drained it for a while.

  8. #143
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    You do not remove the oil sump bolts to remove the CVT cover. They usually drain the oil since the belt change interval coincides with the second scheduled regular oil change. No bolts get removed directly below the oil fill or finned area or you could end up damaging the oil sump gasket. There is a check valve spring in the sump cover which you need to be careful of too. If you accidently remove one of the sump bolts be sure to use a torque wrench and tighten them evenly to spec.

  9. #144
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    One of the brake line supports on The BV250 is held on by one of the sump bolts. Since I was removing the engine I pulled that bolt to disconnect the brake, my mistake was not tightening it back up.

  10. #145
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    Well I managed to remove all the sump bolts but not the sump itself. The sump itself never moved. I put those bolts back in, I imagine it is 8 fLbs torque on those.

    I did run into the black shield on the left side that has those bolts that spin freely because the nuts on the otherside are not secured. I removed the black shield completely. The black shield has 3 or 4 bolts and it is also zip tied from the factory to a bundle of wires. I imagine if the shield needs to be there ..I can secure with just the zip tie but I don't see myself re-installing it. Perhaps I can use a dremal to trim the shield so it doesn't interfere with the belt cover and then just zip tie it in place to protect wiring from the elements.

    I popped off the belt cover and inside is literally caked with black dust everywhere.
    6 months ago I called my local Aprillia shop in Portland about taking a look at the clutch. About fixing the stutter when starting off from park. The guy on the phone said removing the belt cover is a 3 hour job with labor rate of 100/hour. So essentially popping off the cover is 300.

    Good news is I can just order the new parts , clean up the belt compartment and its good as new.
    Bad news is I hope I didn't harm the exhaust valves by losing track of the interval. I hope I caught it in time. I am about 3k miles past due.

    1st time doing valves. I guess how Robot mentioned it is to slide the feeler into the valve gap and then turn the set screw until it stops and then tighten the nut.
    Last edited by Fresno; 11-07-2017 at 09:11 PM.

  11. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fresno View Post
    Well I managed to remove all the sump bolts but not the sump itself. The sump itself never moved. I put those bolts back in, I imagine it is 8 fLbs torque on those.

    I did run into the black shield on the left side that has those bolts that spin freely because the nuts on the otherside are not secured. I removed the black shield completely. The black shield has 3 or 4 bolts and it is also zip tied from the factory to a bundle of wires. I imagine if the shield needs to be there ..I can secure with just the zip tie but I don't see myself re-installing it. Perhaps I can use a dremal to trim the shield so it doesn't interfere with the belt cover and then just zip tie it in place to protect wiring from the elements.

    I popped off the belt cover and inside is literally caked with black dust everywhere.
    6 months ago I called my local Aprillia shop in Portland about taking a look at the clutch. About fixing the stutter when starting off from park. The guy on the phone said removing the belt cover is a 3 hour job with labor rate of 100/hour. So essentially popping off the cover is 300.

    Good news is I can just order the new parts , clean up the belt compartment and its good as new.
    Bad news is I hope I didn't harm the exhaust valves by losing track of the interval. I hope I caught it in time. I am about 3k miles past due.

    1st time doing valves. I guess how Robot mentioned it is to slide the feeler into the valve gap and then turn the set screw until it stops and then tighten the nut.
    Feeler gauge not quite stops but you can just feel it dragging. A slightly loose valve is a happy valve while too tight can become a burnt and cracked valve.

    Most just carefully trim back the black shield with a utility knife so they never have to remove it.

  12. #147
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    So I found out the hard way that my torque wrench isn't working. The variator nut came loose and ate through the filter cage. The variator itself lost 2 teeth and while trouble shooting the issue I drained the lithium battery to stop the repair.
    I also managed to damage the starter motor. I ordered the new parts and with a charged battery and replaced new parts my starter does not respond when I push the start button. The bike has an odd character where I push the start button and the dash lights all turn off completely and 1 second later it slowly lugs over. I mentioned to the Vespa guy that my bike volt meter shows healthy but he shock his head and said he doesn't trust the accuracy.

    I have learned the hard way to ways of the lithium battery. In that I don't have a battery charger made for lithium. I saw a charger at cycle gear made for lithium for 50 bucks. The vespa guys' eyes bulged wide when he saw my tiny baby battery. He couldn't believe the tiny pack could turn over a 250. He went into the back and grabbed a regular sized battery they sell to the 300cc bikes. I would go traditional style in the future.

    I was having the hardest time getting the bike to start/run and ran the starter motor too long. So I suspect I can simply unbolt the 2 bolts and move the starter motor out of the chamber and look at the shaft while I push the start button. If it spins then I damaged the interior part inside the engine, if it doesn't spin then I burnt out the starter motor. The last noise I heard from the starter was a whirring sound as if the something was spinning fast but moving nothing. I am hoping its the starter and not the interior spring key inside where the starter staft connects too. The vespa guy explained the situation to me.

    I went to the local vespa dealer and spoke to them about my issue. I showed him my clutch with 33k miles and he said it looks perfect. I also dropped the oil sump cover and replaced the old gasket and haven't noticed a immediate leak so far.

    I will pop off the engine cover and double check the spark plug boot on my way to detaching the starter motor . I am sure I can drop by Vespa and have them test the starter motor.

    I felt like the guy at the damn trying to stop all the leaks. The torque wrench I bought was the pittsburgh brand from harbor freight. Funny enough it was the exact model that Vespa over here uses in the shop. I bought a new beam style torque wrench to take over the job.

  13. #148
    apriliaforum prov-nov Pinkscoot's Avatar
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    Possibly the Bendix on the starter motor needs cleaning or replacing. Its not kicking out properly when the motor spins.


  14. #149
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    If the sump gasket is sticking up into the CVT area its best to trim the excess off with a razor since at high speed when the belt rides out on the variator the ribs on the back of the belt have been known to catch and pull out the sump gasket if its not trimmed flush with the metal.

    A scooter starter is only rated for seconds of continuous operation and must be allowed to cool down for several minutes to 30 minutes after a long cranking event of over something like 10-15 seconds accumulative in 1 minute.

    The Sport City 250 has a Sprague Clutch (Piaggio calls it a Freewheel Assembly 8477975) mounted on the flywheel and no Bendix. Its a constant mesh starter.
    Last edited by Rockynv; 02-09-2018 at 07:07 AM.

  15. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockynv View Post
    If the sump gasket is sticking up into the CVT area its best to trim the excess off with a razor since at high speed when the belt rides out on the variator the ribs on the back of the belt have been known to catch and pull out the sump gasket if its not trimmed flush with the metal.

    A scooter starter is only rated for seconds of continuous operation and must be allowed to cool down for several minutes to 30 minutes after a long cranking event of over something like 10-15 seconds accumulative in 1 minute.

    The Sport City 250 has a Sprague Clutch (Piaggio calls it a Freewheel Assembly 8477975) mounted on the flywheel and no Bendix. Its a constant mesh starter.
    You learn something new every day, thanks Rocky.

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