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Thread: Fuel Pump Re-Install

  1. #1
    apriliaforum newb
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    Fuel Pump Re-Install

    Ok folks, here’s my situation.

    I ‘look after’ a bike for a mate who lives in Egypt. It hasn’t been run for a while and a while ago I noticed fuel dripping from under the tank - familiar story I know. On investigation, I noticed that there was a bad leak from the seal between the fuel pump and the tank and a slight weep from the black fuel line that goes from the underside of the pump to the elbow connector on the engine.

    I removed the fuel pump and whilst removing it, a wire has broken right at the point where it meets the base of the pump – not a great place to try to solder. As now the fuel pipe and the wiring needs replacing, I decided to source a good used full fuel pump assembly including a fuel line from America. It will be here early next week.

    So, my question is;

    When I go to fit the new pump, how best can I seal the pump to the tank? I have sanded the surface of the tank and was planning to use an aerobic sealant to complement a new O-ring which I have ordered from Aprilia in the UK. Is it simply a case of clean the faces of the pump plate and the bottom of the tank, apply the sealant and then bolt in the pump to the tank? I’m aware of the issue with the u-shaped hose inside the fuel pump which connects the two overflow-type nipples and I plan to JB Weld these for belts and braces protection.

    Any help appreciated….

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    As long as the bottom of the tank is flat, the anaerobic sealant should be enough.

    The wire that goes into the pump plate powers the pump and the fuel level sender. Inside that potting material in the pump plate are connectors. The harness inside the tank and outside is actually not one piece. We've seen quite a few of these connections corrode and have to be repaired.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum Member wynterwolf's Avatar
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    This is my current problem right now. Sealing the damn pump plate up to the tank. I have no experience with what sealant would be best, so I've been experimenting.

    Last time I fixed the harness, I used black silicone sealant to seal the plate. Not sure it's the right stuff, but it seemed to hold up well. I tried to apply it to the outer facing surfaces so that I had as little spillover into the tank as possible. It holds up to gas ok, but gets soft. I had it sealed that way for three years, and never a leak. Good if your mating surfaces aren't flat, but I'm not sure how long it would hold up.

    I tried some Permatex motoseal 1: http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...er-grey-detail. Supposed to be a 'gasket maker'. Not the right stuff. It doesn't harden or cure like silicone does. It claims to be good for uneven surfaces, but I'm not convinced. I'm still leaking. I can, 24 hours later, still wipe the overflow away from the edges.

    I found some stuff called Seal-All: http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm. I used it to insulate all my solder joints in the tank from my harness repair and new pump. This stuff seems pretty good, but I'm not sure if I want to use it to mate my pump plate to my tank. How hard is it going to be to clean off the o ring/plate/tank next time I take it apart.

    At the moment, I'm considering my options. Right now, I'm 50/50 between using silicone again, or trying the Seal-All.
    "If you weren't so much fun to ride, I might wash you more..."

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Argh Oh's Avatar
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    RAS, you mean something like Permatex 51531 or 51813 correct?
    01 Blue #84, adopted 11/12 with: HeliBars, foam grips, 05 map, Devil cans/stock silencer, derestricted, metal QD, dash socket, R/R mod. Me: Ford relay +10g & grd, Fuel pump rewire/filter, FPR, vac hoses. CBR coils/harness+ Magnecor, clutch switch bypass. S.S. front line, RaceTech Gold valves, tapered head bearings. Lots of LED lighting mods/running lights- signals/brake LED bulbs. Flashing brake light. All lights but Hi/park/brake on dash switch. Hi beam mod, vest plug, wiring block, blue dash SMD's/Red V meter, Tune IFT. Stripped/polished rims, ESA dk tint vented screen, KB etc/axle/petal disc. FH008 soldered DC plug/added grd, soldered AC. L/R turn indicators on dash. 8/2/13 smushed. 9/22/13 back. Rehab complete 8/10/14.

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Argh Oh View Post
    RAS, you mean something like Permatex 51531 or 51813 correct?
    Yes, exactly! Iirc, the 813 has a slightly larger gap filling. These anaerobic sealants will only cure in the absence of air. This is what the service manual calls for. Oddly enough, the factory never used it.

    The glue that's meant specifically to glue a mirror onto the windshield of your car is also an anaerobic glue. The kit comes with a tube of cleaner/activator that's isopropyl alcohol + some copper (maybe copper sulfate) which is why it's green in color. The alcohol cleans, the metal ions help with polymerization. Slap a couple of pennies together with the 51813 and then try to pull 'em apart.

    Gasline will slowly dissolve silicones.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    Heatgun and bent it back
    Search on the forum how I did it.

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum prov-nov futer?'s Avatar
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    I just had to do the warp tank fuel pump fix. I used Permatex Permashield 85420 suppose to be fuel and ethanol resistant.
    Time will tell.....
    2001
    staintunes, CF hugger, Race Tech shock,
    Magnecor leads, Brembo radial pumpers,
    K&N, de-restricted,voltage monitor, FPR mod,
    Falco showa fork in progress

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by futer? View Post
    I just had to do the warp tank fuel pump fix. I used Permatex Permashield 85420 suppose to be fuel and ethanol resistant.
    Time will tell.....
    This looks like a substitute for Hylomar. Should be pretty resistant to gasoline and if necessary, will be easier to clean than the set-up anaerobic stuff. What it won't do that the anaerobic sealant does is fill a gap. Not like the anaerobic sealant will fill a huge gap (.050" max). But this Permashield stuff needs a gasket or machined surfaces to work properly.

    Well, if you got it nice and flat, maybe OK.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum prov-nov futer?'s Avatar
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    While it does not say anything about filling a gap, I'll think it would fill in a .050 gap just fine. just lay it down a little thicker and let the acetone evaporate and torque the plate down. One thing about the
    Permashield is it won't harden like the anaerobic stuff. So in theory it will flex with the tank. Well thats what I hope anyways...
    2001
    staintunes, CF hugger, Race Tech shock,
    Magnecor leads, Brembo radial pumpers,
    K&N, de-restricted,voltage monitor, FPR mod,
    Falco showa fork in progress

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by futer? View Post
    While it does not say anything about filling a gap, I'll think it would fill in a .050 gap just fine. just lay it down a little thicker and let the acetone evaporate and torque the plate down. One thing about the
    Permashield is it won't harden like the anaerobic stuff. So in theory it will flex with the tank. Well thats what I hope anyways...
    Well, if it works, it's always good to have another option.

    Hylomar is hard to find around here. YEars ago when I 1st used the anaerobic sealant, I had to go to 5 different parts stores to find. It's everywhere now. Had not heard of the Permashield. So good to know about it. It'll also be easily available with time, if not already, as the Permatex brand is everywhere.

    Good luck with this. A leaking tank sucks.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Member
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    I have used blue liquid gasket from a tube at least 3 times over the past 10 years. Its never failed and peels off fairly easily when you need to.
    mo_biker

  12. #12
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    DaveB, how did you get on?
    if your still looking for a sealant you could try PR 1770 B1/2 Semkit Aircraft Fuel Tank Sealant, I've used a similar sealant to this from fleebay on a fuel tank leak on an old Suzuki with no problems after 3yrs

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
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    sealant?
    o-ring is suppose to seal, if the surface isn't flat......
    heatgun and your fingers, bend it back


    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybobly View Post
    sealant?
    o-ring is suppose to seal, if the surface isn't flat......
    heatgun and your fingers, bend it back
    Yeah well, the plastic under there is stupid thin. It's that thick oring that causes the bottom of the tank to "warp" everywhere there is not a mount screw in the 1st place. Bending it back with heat might work for a while. But there's nothing to prevent it from happening a 2nd time. Bend it again and it might just crack. Better just to fill/flattened the already stressed/depressed plastic and be done with it.

    There's a reason why these tanks were not assembled with anaerobic sealant, but the shop manual calls for it.

  15. #15
    apriliaforum Member wynterwolf's Avatar
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    I finally used Seal-all to seal my tank. I'm not sure how hard it's going to be to get it apart again, but it definately does the sealing job. The manufacturer claims you can use it over a current leak and use tape to hold it there against pressure until it cures. I dind't have to do that, but it's goopy stuff, for sure. Definately stuff I will keep in the tool box. Hopefully I never have to take it apart again.
    "If you weren't so much fun to ride, I might wash you more..."

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