Clutch option: switching to a cable

[hawki]

I did a search to see if there was an answer to my question but I didn't find a satisfactory answer. So...does anyone know who makes cable replacements for the hydraulic clutch actuator? I have a 2000 RSV R and can't seem to get the hydraulic system to suit my desires. I intend to race this bike next season and want a cable system like my current racebike (a Kawasaki).

Hawki

[Aprilia94]

I've always preferred cable clutches myself, hope you find something.

[Jet City Racer]

What is it about the clutch you don't like?

If it's because it chatters and/or is grabby, just pop a Barnet c/k kit in it. The early stock Mille clutches sucked. I put one in mine and the difference was literally night and day. Very progessive engagement, and after a whole race season, it still worked great!

Check your outer clutch hub while you are in there. They tend to get notched from the fiber plate "ears".

If it's a leverage issue...?

[hawki]

The reason I want a cable clutch is that I can't get the hydraulic system adjusted to my liking. With cables it is easy to remove the play and adjust the engagement point where I want it.

I still have the stock clutch in the bike with only 4400 miles on it. I haven't abused it but have had to bleed it several times.

Perhaps my problem exists because the slave cylinder isn't the best. I've seen ad's for different parts (more o-rings) that are supposed to help keep it from leaking and thus improve performance.

How should I be adjusting my hydraulic clutch?

Hawki

[clarkie49]

i have a love / hate relationship with the hydraulic clutch, i hate it on the start grid but once i am moving i dont mind it.

i am sure Les will agree with me about how much lighter the STM clutch pull is and how much better it is off the start.

i know Kawasaki used to have a conversion kit for the ZX7RR to go from hydraulic to cable, but you should look at the STM clutch as it will help you on the starts but also in every corner

[kendooley]

how much lighter the STM clutch pull is

I keep hearing this. I just put the STM clutch in my Falco, along with new Barnett plates. Everything works smoothly, but my clutch lever pull is definately harder. I thought maybe it would get better after the bike was run, so I put about 30 miles on it today. Everything seems fine, other than the stiff clutch pull. I guess I'm going to have to tear back into it and look for a problem. Any ideas?

[clarkie49]

that sounds kinda strange ken, the STM clutch should be half as heavy as the stock lever feel, like you could pull the lever in with 1 finger very easily.

not sure what is going on

[Aprilia94]

I agree with Clarkie...the STM is the bomb. I'm totally happy with it. If it's in your budget...get it...you won't have to worry if it's worth it. It is.

For some humor...if you opt for cable, make sure it's not attached to live A/C current (you can read my thread if you didn't get that), you won't want to let go. Friends and family are already calling me nicknames like "Sparky" and "Kilowatt".

[hawki]

Well, I'm not the only one who hates the hydraulic clutch on the starting grid. What is the STM clutch?

Thanks for the relpies. Maybe I'll try to call the US distributor...

Hawki

[clarkie49]

the STM clutch is a mechanical slipper clutch, same sort of design as the Ducati aftermarket clutch but it is still a wet clutch.

it is a ball and ramp design (also called a 'Back Torque Limiter') that is the most common design.

it will make the bike have a lot less engine breaking going into corners and although it takes a little while to get used to you will have a lot easier time getting through corners as the back will lose all tendancy to come around on you while down shifting.

the clutch uses a 'Spider Spring' instead of 5-6 individual springs which gives it the lighter pull and there are a number of different spring rates avaliable.

the std spring is a 0.140 spring which is awesome for both street and track but there is also a 0.160 spring which will feel like the bike is free-wheeling into dorners with the clutch in. the 0.160 spring will require you to replace the clutch plates more often so i would go for the std 0.140 spring.

you can use the stock Aprilia clutch plates or the Barnett plates you have and you only have to remove the outer clutch cover that contains the diaphram to install the clutch. you will have to plug the two vacuum lines that come out of the tb's and the line that comes out of the clutch cover.

the clutch can be installed with the bike upright but it will be easier if the bike is laying on its side (you shouldnt lose any engine oil) as you have to place the little balls in the clutch assembly without dropping them into the transmission.

the kit will/should come with a new clutch cover to replace the rubber diaphram and a new pushrod to replace the stock one. you will need to remove the roller bearing from the stock pressure plate and use that in the new assembly. the instructions call for a 'special tool' but you can install the clutch with an airgun .

here is a link to the importers
http://www.azionemoto.com/store/product.asp?pid=267
and here is the link to the explodes parts diagram
http://www.azionemoto.com/tech003.htm

AF1 sells the STM clutch on their website

[hawki]

Thanks Clarkie49, I will check out the STM. I have noticed a bit of engine braking even with the factory slipper clutch. This is the first bike I've owned with a slipper clutch or a hydralic clutch for that matter.

Now which credit card should I abuse....

Hawki

[clarkie49]

the stock slipper clutch system is great for basic street use but once you start pushing the bike you will find the limitations of the slipper (it doesnt slip enough for a lot of track users)