anyone fitted one of these or any radial m/c without any problems?
anyone fitted one of these or any radial m/c without any problems?
I fitted a Brembo radial M/C from a 2009 Yamaha R6. I love it! It has the same 16mm cylinder diameter as the stock axial Ape master. $55 shipped on eBay with lever and brake light switch. I just snipped the wires on the old brake light switch and soldered in the leads on the new one. The thread pitch on the R6 master banjo bolt is different than the stock axial one on the Ape so I picked one up from my local Yamaha dealer. You need to move the fuse box on the right side of the dash forward for clearance otherwise at full lock the fuse box will press on the brake lever and apply the brakes. I just removed the bolts for the bracket and ran zip ties through the spacers and the holes that are a bit more forward on the front fairing stay.
very nice dan, i take it you used the standard fluid pot and standard lines and so on? looks like that was quite a good find as it angles away from the clocks and stuff. are the throttle cables meant to go above the lever? mine hang down below it all.
I used the stock braided brake lines off of a brand new 2009 RSV 1000 Factory that was parted out by a breaker in England to go with the radial 4 pad Brembo calipers and Ohlins forks off of a 2004 Factory. The 98-99 Mille had the throttle cables routed differently than the 2000 and up bikes, so for my bike yes the throttle cables are where they belong (my bike is a 99 that was sold here in the US as an 00) . I used a very high tech method of mounting the brake fluid reservoir, it is zip-tied to the throttle cables lol.
Frames up to # ZD4MEE009YS000292 had the cables routed above the grip and the idle adjuster on the TB was just a slotted screw so you needed to use a screw driver.
Frames #ZD4MEE009YS000293 and up got a remote idle adjuster knob and had the throttle cables routed below the brake lever.
Last edited by DanV990; 06-21-2012 at 04:53 PM.
you know as simple as that is i never thought of using zip ties to fix anything. i found these pretty nifty stainless steel mounts, its just a piece of hefty stainless wire with a spring rolled into the middle of it, looks the part and is easy enough to bend or relocate if needs be, im using a clutch fluid reservoir on either side, the little 20ml pot, looks better and still havnt managed to run out of fluid but then im constantly checking everything to make sure nothing goes wrong.
does that size give you a nice squishy feel? i think the standard one i have is just a bit on/off and hard to feel
I would not normally use the word squishy in the context of good brake feel, I think it is too close to spongy like when a little air is trapped in the lines.
The brake feel is firm but light and very powerful with excellent modulation. The braking power is very linear and predictable, applying the same pressure on the lever or moving it the same distance, whichever way you want to think about it, always gives you the same amount of braking force, and for me it is very easy to feel what the brakes are doing.
I use one on my RC51. It's a great master and like Dan said you should have no problem with it. With my RC i had to buy some longer brake lines. at full extension on my forks they would have been pretty tight. Just have Spiegler or Galfer make a custom line and add 1.5" to the length of the stock line. Also for mounting Reservoirs, Sato makes some very handy Bendy Brackets that look good too.
http://www.shop.kyleusa.com/product....&categoryId=51
Another thing i have seen done, is in the Reservoir tubing to keep the tubes from potentially kinking up due to master cylinder mounting change, guys will buy the Brembo clear tubing and put a small spring inside to make sure it does not kink up. It's actually kind of neat.
Last edited by gts455; 06-21-2012 at 08:35 PM.
2003 Aprilia RSV Mille R
1999 Aprilia RS50
2001 Honda RC51 SP1
2012 Triumph Daytona 675R
2005 Yamaha R6 (Sold)
2010 BMW S1000RR (Sold)
The stock lines from an 04-09 Factory that have the correct angle on the banjo for the radial master are already the correct length. The radial masters on those bikes have the banjo mount in the same location and orientation as the R6 master I used. There is really no need to order those any longer. If however you are trying to use the brake lines from an axial master that would change the orientation of the banjo and you'd need the line to be a bit longer to give you the required slack. Speigler or any decent hydraulic shop could make you an extender like this.
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