I heard about those...probably should look into one since I don't want my nice hair mussed up while riding. Also it could help me hold to the bike easier with my limp wrists.Originally Posted by CAMOETO
You should get an aftermarket windscreen. Everybody has one and loves them around here
I also decided that instead of buying the bigger rear seat I;ll just stick with the smaller one and find a passenger to fit it. It will probably be cheaper...oh wait...nevermind.
I ran Map 2 on stock cans for a few months : found the Ape ran much better than Map 1. Map 1 seems to be the emmissons control map and my 08 Factory ran like crap & stalled alot. Dealer never said anything about possible Cat damage. As all of us have stated go to the 15t right away. Bike much easier to handle. Finding neutral is always a pain. Don't let it frustrate you. This is the most enjoyable bike i have ever owned. I never dreamed a twin could bbe so much fun. Enjoy!
As I was breezing though some of the forum posts I came across a post relating to the rear shock link plates. Is this really something to worry about so soon or can I hold off on buying the AF1 ones for a bit?
"From what I have read on here that's a bad idea - it can burn out the cats."
"You should get an aftermarket windscreen. Everybody has one and loves them around here"
Disclaimer- Please don't make any modifications to your motorcycle based on my post. All modifications should be approved by the manufacturer, law enforcement, pertinent government agencies and forum members. You may void warranty, violate emissions laws, be subject to severe civil and criminal penalties, cause unsafe and dangerous conditions that could lead to damage to your motorcycle and injury to rider, passenger and bystanders up to and including death. More importantly you may incur osterization.
Finding a passenger to fit and enjoy the stock pilion seat is a must!
2008 Aprilia Tuono 1000R
2002 Honda CBR1100XX
Retired: 2007 Griso, 2008 FZ1, 2006 Z750, 1992 XJ600
I picked it up today and one thought is stuck still stuck in my mind..."why didn't I do this sooner?" OMFG. I wish I could take it to bed with me. Maybe when I get my frame sliders installed. Now I need to find an awesome windscreen.
Darn almost forgot...just a couple of things that I wanted to clarify after I picked up the bike. The owner said that he had the first service dine however the receipt only shows that the oil and filter were changed. Should I take it to the dealership to have everything done or will I be OK until the next service interval. Also, what RPM should I be keeping the bike above during normal running. It seems to like 5000-ish. Is this too low, high or just right? What is the actual redline of the engine? It currently has 1500a miles on it. I just want to make sure e drugging is being done right from the onset. Finally I guess I was so excited when I picked it up that when I got home I noticed that the rims are black...not the standard blue that I have seen. Did they come like this or did the dealer pull a fast one when the original owner buy the bike? Thanks for any help. Back to lusting over my new toy.
A lot of dealers apparently don't bother with the valve check at the first service as they don't ever seem to need it.
RPM during normal running? Anything above 4000rpm and it pulls.
Redline - you can set the shift light to what you like. Mine is at 10500 rpm and I have seen it flash a few times. During running in the shift light is set to 6k.
Not all Tuonos have blue wheels - http://www.tuonoworld.com/index.php?topic=91.0
Sean
Stella Artois -
Wheels were black as standard on Tuono 'R' from 2008 onwards.Only the 2008/9 blue/white model kept blue wheels.
Hope that helps.
I believe in the US our 2008 model still comes with the blue wheels on some other colors. My matte black has them.
2008 Aprilia Tuono 1000R
2002 Honda CBR1100XX
Retired: 2007 Griso, 2008 FZ1, 2006 Z750, 1992 XJ600
You may be correct,but according to AF1's part list,the black wheels were fitted to the matte black and ice white bikes from 2008 onwards.
You will require bling. Nera wheels are very blingie, but more expensive than a black-tar heroin habit. Or live-in strippers for that matter. Drip the bugger with carbon fiber. Or fibre. You will find the bling factor to be blingoliceous. Instead of changing the gearing, leave the gearing stock and put a big-bore kit in it. Seriously. And drop some Rizoma stuff on it, because that is duly ghetto. When you are done, park it next to a Streetfighter and giggle a little bit.
Oh, and ride the piss out of it and enjoy.
Bikes:
2007.5 Tuono-Black, with 1102cc's of micah's badness!
2012 Griso-Silver and black, Agostini pipe, some carbon bits.
2006 Vespa GT200-bitubo suspension all around, Malossi big-bore, head and cam, Akrapovic pipe, all put together by Micah.
gone 2002 Caponord-Oyster gray (as faithful as a hound dog)
gone Futura-Red (on the AF1 showroom floor. Get some.)
The more I learn about people, the more I appreciate rocks.
This sucks so bad. Only got to ride the bike for one hour and got called in to supervise an engine change in Wisconsin that is quickly going south. Now all I can do is troll the AF1 store and spend the money that I will be getting for overtime. Dammit.
Now you get it! Feed the demon machine!
Bikes:
2007.5 Tuono-Black, with 1102cc's of micah's badness!
2012 Griso-Silver and black, Agostini pipe, some carbon bits.
2006 Vespa GT200-bitubo suspension all around, Malossi big-bore, head and cam, Akrapovic pipe, all put together by Micah.
gone 2002 Caponord-Oyster gray (as faithful as a hound dog)
gone Futura-Red (on the AF1 showroom floor. Get some.)
The more I learn about people, the more I appreciate rocks.
The two best, cheapest, practical mods I can think of for touring on a Tuono (or just riding the thing every day):
1. Get a pair of Pro-Grip dirtbike handlebar grips, cut the ends off (turning them into hollow tubes), and slide them over the existing handlebar grips. This will give you thick, comfy handgrips, that are much easier on the hands for touring. Cost - $8 to $12 dollars. Benefit - priceless.
2. Take the driver seat off, remove cover (it's only upholstered on with staples, so if you've got a cheap staple gun you can get it back on). Take some carpet padding (8-pound weight foam works fine, and it's what most car/bike shops use), cut it to fit over existing foam, stretch the seat cover back on nice and tight, and re-staple. Now you got ten times the stock seat, but it still looks stock. Cost - free to a few $ for some excess foam from a carpet store. Benefit - priceless to zero (depending on your butt).
I never ride without #1, and I currently don't ride without #2.
If I was going to change my sprocket, I wouldn't bother with the rear. Try the 15-tooth front one, first. If that's not enough extra 'oomph' for you, go up on the rear one, by all means. However - you will burn more gas. Today, I traveled 120 miles using 3.2 gallons of no-ethanol 91 (I live in Oklahoma, where we don't burn moonshine for gas, and tears to the rest of y'all), yielding me 37.5 mpg. That was crsuing the tollway at 80-90 mph, the state highway at 65-75 mph, with two occasional bursts of speed to 131 mph and 134 mph, and a few here-and-there dashes up to 100 mph. City riding on my trip was about 5 miles. I'm currently using Map 2 with open Delkovics (remember to take the plugs out of your aftermarket cans!) and the stock 16-tooth front sprocket. If I switched over to the 15-tooth front sprocket, my mpg would have fell to about 32 mpg. Not suggesting you use Map 1 or 2, or what sprockets to use - just pointing this out for your consideration.... (By the way, I'm lucky to get 30-32mpg riding around town.)
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2010 Tuono 1000R