Spark Plug and Oil question

[madoldbird]

Hi all - returning Peg owner here (mad as &*^% I know, but I bought the same one back), it's the character

Anyhow she's currently in bits having all the fuelling and cooling bits out and carbs cleaned as she was standing for a while, ordering replacement coolant, hose/pipes, oil, filters clamps etc.

I know that oil >owners manual< is 5w40, is this what's generally used? am sure I've read of other weights being used. Also with new sparkplugs being made (since 1998) are there any new recommends?

Other work to do -> Apart from having her start and run without popping/pfarting
seat recover with the addition of a gel pad, new grips (fat ones), tarting up of metalworks, still considering how to get shortarse (me) onto tall bike with a comfy seat any ideas?
all suggestions welcome (I have bought some boots with very thick soles already) cheaper the better as she has to share my bank account with a Cagiva and an Italjet

happytrails

[stisma]

.... I know that oil >owners manual< is 5w40, is this what's generally used? am sure I've read of other weights being used. Also with new sparkplugs being made (since 1998) are there any new recommends?....

Since you are not in ....Alaska, 10W-40 is perfect.

Brisk seems to be the optional spark plug choice for many, next to NGK DR8EA.
But the model of the spark plug can vary due to many factors.

[koukosnest]

Try Brisk BOR12LGS :
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Brisk-BOR12LG...item53ea576d24

[madoldbird]

thanks stisma and koukosnest for that info - ordering the sparky now and I can save by not buying oil "result!"

['74Stratos]

A Peg, a Cagiva and an Italjet! You are a sick, sick individual indeed

[madoldbird]

A Peg, a Cagiva and an Italjet! You are a sick, sick individual indeed

Why Thank You '74Stratos I don't think I've ever received a nicer compliment


Have to admit that I also have a 1981 Honda 250 with a sidecar (but we try to keep that quiet for the sake of the kids)

[dodgerroger]

I have just fitted a brisk plug to my 95 peg this afternoon and after a quick test ride I can honestly say that it seems to have given it a little bit more power below 3000 rpm. Before I fitted it i couldnt run at 30mph in 4th gear but now no problems. although 5th gear low down is to much for her. I changed it from an ngk irridium which i thought where the bees knees. Brisk all the way now

[madoldbird]

would like to agree with you dodgerroger but the brisk plug supplied did not release the pin cap - and the pin broke - not me being heavy handed honest
so back with the ngk for the moment.

[dodgerroger]

Ha, ha I did exactly the same thing when i bought my first brisk plug so i emailed the seller who informed me that the pin cap is spot welded on and the 3 indents on it need drilling out a little bit. So plug number 2 is now in and really happy with it.

[madoldbird]

Thanks for that (wishing you'd mentioned it before though) Would have been useful if they printed that info in the pack too
Now I know I don't think I'll be buying another, as I doubt my drilling skills would be up to the task

[stisma]

.... informed me that the pin cap is spot welded on and the 3 indents on it need drilling out a little bit. ....

What in the world are you guys talking about?
What drilling?
I finaly caved-in and ordered Brisks for both bikes and now you are saying.....drilling is required?
R U Nutz?!?
Just kidding here, but can you put more light on this drilling thing plz.

[dodgerroger]

oops i wrongly assumed it was common knowledge although i have never come across the cap been welded before. The ebayer sells loads of brisk plugs on ebay and he only supplies them with the cap on. In my opinion they are crimped with 3 indents although he described them as spot welded. Anyway these 3 marks are like centre pots so i used a 3mm drill and just drilled them out a little with a hand drill. I then just gently unscrewed it with pipe grips( the cap is also threaded like a normal plug as well). God I think I made it sound harder than it is but you chaps on here seem quite mechanically minded.

[madoldbird]

oops i wrongly assumed it was common knowledge although i have never come across the cap been welded before.
-/-
God I think I made it sound harder than it is but you chaps on here seem quite mechanically minded.

LOL moi?? I think you overestimate

[madoldbird]

YES

Miss PeggySue Cube passed MoT test with just an advisory on brakes binding (due to lack of use no doubt) and a wobbly indicator, tax paid online and a full tank to celebrate, bring it on

[Vicki M]

.... still considering how to get shortarse (me) onto tall bike with a comfy seat any ideas?
all suggestions welcome (I have bought some boots with very thick soles already) cheaper the better as she has to share my bank account with a Cagiva and an Italjet

happytrails

Being similarly challenged, I have considered the following

boots with very thick soles / raised heel - ended up just raising the heels as cudnt get the thicker sole between peg and gear stick to change gears.

lowering kit - they claim up to 2" or more, havnt tried this. but interested to hear how well works. suspect it would be at the expense of ground clearance.

seat sculpting. tried this, was a bad idea. Despite detailed description and a diagram requesting only forwrd and side parts to be trimmed (where your legs go with feet on ground), The guy left the front and side alone and instead 'scooped out' the seat further toward the back of your bum. Making my bum closer to the pegs while riding -which I didnt need (similar feel to a low rider or Harley) but no real lower to the ground while stopped which is what I did want.
If u want to try this option, I suggest you either do it yourself, and/or get a cheap 2nd hand seat off the internet and have it modified. So you still have the original seat if you decide to sell in the future. I ended up finding an 2nd hand unmodified seat - cost more to have it shipped from UK than the seat cost. but still cheaper than buying a new seat. Hmmm wonder if interchangable with the BMW F650?

Other
where possible, I pull up in the ever so slight wheel track dip, then feet go on the higher bits either side.

Depending on road camber, I make sure 'hi side' foot down first. In Oz, thats usually the right foot.

Am interested in hearing any other ideas for/from the vertically challenged.

cheers

Vic