Chain tension question

[MrP]

Thanks for the details folks. Gives me something to go on with. The guy who adjusted the chain used a laser which he seated against the rear sprocket. So in reality the adjustment hinges on the accuracy of the rear sprocket. As I mentioned in the original post, this meant the tick marks were out by two, and just looked odd.

On a positive note, on the ride home the bike turned left pretty quick. I'll give it some attension this weekend and see if I can get it straight.

[jmardy]

Serious about the offer. PM me if you feel like coming to San Rafael.

[MrP]

Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I'm busy this long weekend, but could make it up next sunday. Let me know if that suits.

[jmardy]

Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I'm busy this long weekend, but could make it up next sunday. Let me know if that suits.

Almost any weekend/evening.
:

[Galaxian]

The guy who adjusted the chain used a laser which he seated against the rear sprocket.

Even with a perfect sprocket, this method won't work reliably on any bike with a cush drive on the rear wheel.

[TimeBandit]

Even with a perfect sprocket, this method won't work reliably on any bike with a cush drive on the rear wheel.

Of all bikes with cush-drive, the RSVR/Tuono seems to have the most accurate/tightest interlocking fittings (I can't say that among some of the Suzuki's I've owned - very sloppy). But even if that, the cush-drive hub has it's own set of bearings which should keep it perpendicular on the axel regardless. Torque and acceleration should not be distorting that align under load as the cush mechanism should only allow for twist variances. Therefore, I bet one could yes indeed get a reliable "good enough already" alignment while the wheel is mounted. While it is mechanically very important to have good sprocket/chain alignment for sure, but.... I think these types of threads seem to over-analyze to the point of anal retention on alignment perfection, i.e. I don't think substantially more wear is going to occur given a hash-mark or two being off, let's say as opposed to variances in light/hard riding conditions, and lubrication/maintenance intervals. But if you all enjoy such topics, can I point you to this alignment thread for a much deeper look.

[Galaxian]

I should have been more specific.

Using the rear sprocket to get proper wheel alignment (which is what you should be after, not chain alignment) on ANY bike, particularly one with with a cush drive is not the right way to do it. There are other, more reliable methods.

[theknurl]

you want the centerlines of 2 wheels and the steering head in the same vertical plane, period.....

thats for handling....

for chain/sprocket life you want the rear sprocket directly behind the C/S sprocket....
misaligned sprockets are a horsepower loss, look it up in any engineering book or power transmission book

after carefully measuring the chain line/case centerline relationship Aprilia doesn't seem to care......its an strange number

my chain aligns perfectly.....with the cutout on the inside....opposite of stock

aligning the rear axle to the swingarm pivot is a fools exercise regardless of what tool you use.....because you want the wheels aligned, who gives a shit where the pivot is......you can't do anything about it

look at all the BS in the cush drive......ball bearings? for what? a couple of degrees of movement? hey, Yamahas use needle bearings.....for all that high speed movement, right?

put a nylon sleeve in there......when you race 3,000mi a day
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...4_LZvXItJ29XcQ

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A..._PxMEsjpPMCjPg
good old #7 'the Freight Train'
on the back cover of every European Bike magazine for years

on the steering head:
EK900R
H407Y
the H&Y are the 1st and last letters of my last name, yes, i made the bitch

Seppi Arnold, the workshop boss on the cover of the Egli catalog on his HRS 812 Egli Honda.....every bolt is hollow, the Mg wheels are shaved too

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...CylDWysEjk9uYy