I just bought this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-LED-D...item41628aadc4
It´s so cheap so worth while trying it.
I just bought this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-LED-D...item41628aadc4
It´s so cheap so worth while trying it.
2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller
This one is even cheaper.... Any reason to use a 3wire vs 2 wire?
*edit* it's also twice the size....
I don’t need to trek through Africa and I don’t need to climb Everest — I need to ride every f***ing curvy road between here and there. That’s far more powerful. Far more majestic. Far more of a journey.
Hmm, I think you are looking at 2 units, one closed, one open. What appears to be a 3rd wire is the pair for the closed unit.Originally Posted by SoCalSV
looks like the 3wire has separate lines for powering the display vs. using only one pair to power/measure voltage...
I don’t need to trek through Africa and I don’t need to climb Everest — I need to ride every f***ing curvy road between here and there. That’s far more powerful. Far more majestic. Far more of a journey.
look at the top right hand side of my dash, that is a digtal voltage meter intended to use with a cap in a high power car stereo system, it was a two wire set up always on with ignition switch. I think it was less than $5 and water proof case. blue led
I have a little teaser for you now.
Received the mini blue voltmeter from Hong Kong today it and arrrived well packed and was even marked as gift.
It was not possible to have it in the middle but lower left corner is even better I think.
The voltmeter is accurate to 0.1 V against a calibrated voltmeter so good enough for this application.
My idea of connecting it to the dimmer circuit of the panel LED´s didn´t work well as it flickers a bit.
The dimming is done bit changing the duty cycle to the LED´s.
Could have ordered the two wire version instead.
2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller
sweet!
I'm getting one of these. It has a much smaller "footprint". http://www.ebay.com/itm/200634417104...#ht_2214wt_830
Bill
'02 Rosso Flame Futura
38K miles + 18000KM
Deefred, that is so cool!
Must admit though, I feel a lot more at ease without any Volt or Amp meters on the dash. It's like driving a Prius: no matter how un-green you are, you just keep looking at the dash trying to get the mpg up, very frustrating, even for me!
This Must Be The Place
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- Futura '03 - currently parting it out, see the For Sale section.
- 2010 Honda VFR1200F. Remus Ti can, Bazzaz Z-Bomb restriction eliminator.
Project completed
It shows 0.2V lower than battery voltage with lights OFF and 0.6V lower with lights ON.
I actually prefer to see what I have in voltage reaching the display instead of reading battery voltage.
I have now removed my battery bug as this simple voltmeter is enough for me.
2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller
That's sweet! Looks like it belongs as OE - better yet.
Fred, That is a neat looking install. Hope to copy your idea. Thanks!
JBC
I still like my DGV
__________________
____@FoxFader_____
Current Swag - '01 Futura in Silver, Acumen DGV‡Painted W-screen‡Pazzo Knock-offs.
Jesus, family, me. Psalm 121 - Red Pill Mille Clip - Delkevic Sound Clip
Past Swags: 09 RSV 1000R, 06 GSXR 1000 SF, 02 Bandit 1200 N, 03 RSV 1000, 05 Katana 600, 98 VLX 600, 00 GSXR 750, 01 Futura 1000, 02 Bandit 1200S, 83 V65 Magna, 91 Nighthawk 750, 9? 700 Honda, 93 GSXR 750wp, 91 Katana 600, 78 KZ400, 82 CB450 Custom
HF152, 10-26954
HF564,
__________________
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Project completed
It shows 0.2V lower than battery voltage with lights OFF and 0.6V lower with lights ON.
I actually prefer to see what I have in voltage reaching the display instead of reading battery voltage.
I have now removed my battery bug as this simple voltmeter is enough for me.That looks cool! Mine came with one mounted externally and illuminating in red, like Fox Fader's but (only bulkier and obviously cheaper). Yours looks perfect! Discreet location, right colour, perfect.
Now, As I've only had my Fut for a week and am just boning up on all the knowledge, I have to ask - is the idea that, as long as the meter shows 12.0 and over, everything is cool? And if it shows much less, then something has gone wrong with your charging circuit... is that right?
13.5 volts (at the battery) would be the absolute minimum I could accept for some days.
12.8 volts is the no load voltage of a fully charged AGM battery and to actually charge it well you need to be somewhere between 14.0 - 14.5 volts.
2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller
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