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Thread: Gubbed bike stand and temperature sensor on SR 50 R, help?

  1. #1
    apriliaforum prov-nov allanbegg's Avatar
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    Question Gubbed bike stand and temperature sensor on SR 50 R, help?

    Can anyone help, my bikes stand seems to have moved and the back wheel now rests on the ground instead of being partially suspended in the air, I don't know what the best option is?

    Also the temp. sensor is gubbed, where is the sensor located?

    Cheers, Allan

  2. #2
    Moderator (ADSUM) Grenadiers's Avatar
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    Temp sensor is located on the Cylinder head...

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    06 SR50 (Morini)/AIRSAL 70CC BBK/NGK BR9EIX/Top Speed-117KPH (GPS)!!
    Rear Rack & Top Case/Buzzetti Side stand/Aprilia Racing Shock W/STR8 65mmRiser/HGT Stretch Kit
    HGT PFI Kit/Malossi MHR Team II Pipe/All Polished Water Pump
    Black HGT Gen 3 Fuel Regulator/Stebel Magnum Horn/Glowshift Elite Gauge
    BING 26mm TBA/BGM Pro Reed Block & Pod Filter
    Polished Aluminum Varo W/Kick start/Pod Filter/HEL Brake Lines
    HGT Red Brake Levers/LED bulbs/BGM LED Tail Light
    Malossi Delta Clutch w/Blue springs/Red Contra spring & TC/MHR Full Circle Crank
    Malossi 15/40 Primary Gears & Multivar w/5gr Dr. Pulley Sliders/Kevlar Belt
    Michelin Pilot Sport 140/60 Rear tire w/Dyna Beads&TPMS Sensor

  3. #3
    apriliaforum prov-nov allanbegg's Avatar
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    Cheers Grenadiers.
    Is it a pain in the neck to change or is it simple?

  4. #4
    Moderator (ADSUM) Grenadiers's Avatar
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    Drain coolant (good time to check it's condition) and then unscrew it from the cylinder head. Once replaced (with new or after checking to see if it's fine) replace coolant with new coolant...

    Tempus Fugit
    06 SR50 (Morini)/AIRSAL 70CC BBK/NGK BR9EIX/Top Speed-117KPH (GPS)!!
    Rear Rack & Top Case/Buzzetti Side stand/Aprilia Racing Shock W/STR8 65mmRiser/HGT Stretch Kit
    HGT PFI Kit/Malossi MHR Team II Pipe/All Polished Water Pump
    Black HGT Gen 3 Fuel Regulator/Stebel Magnum Horn/Glowshift Elite Gauge
    BING 26mm TBA/BGM Pro Reed Block & Pod Filter
    Polished Aluminum Varo W/Kick start/Pod Filter/HEL Brake Lines
    HGT Red Brake Levers/LED bulbs/BGM LED Tail Light
    Malossi Delta Clutch w/Blue springs/Red Contra spring & TC/MHR Full Circle Crank
    Malossi 15/40 Primary Gears & Multivar w/5gr Dr. Pulley Sliders/Kevlar Belt
    Michelin Pilot Sport 140/60 Rear tire w/Dyna Beads&TPMS Sensor

  5. #5
    apriliaforum prov-nov allanbegg's Avatar
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    OK man, thanks alot, I'll get to it asap. Got to renew the exhaust as the standard one snapped after hitting off a part of metal on the frame which holds no purpose.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum Junkie marky boy sr50r's Avatar
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    dont forget to bleed the system
    sr50r (carb) 2010 alitalia
    completely stock

  7. #7
    Banned Snugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marky boy sr50r View Post
    dont forget to bleed the system
    Yes good advice, also, use the same type of coolant that you take out.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum prov-nov allanbegg's Avatar
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    I don't have a clue what coolant is in it, I'm a novice when it comes to all this engine talk aswell lucky I've got help at hand in the form of a mechanic for an uncle and you guys

  9. #9
    Banned Snugg's Avatar
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    Basically if it's green, use green 50/50 blend

  10. #10
    apriliaforum prov-nov allanbegg's Avatar
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    That's confused me more
    2009 Aprilia SR 50 R Factory Max Biaggi Replica De-restricted
    Stock apart from the Giannelli Next Sports Exhaust, LED bulbs and matte black tunnel covers and pillion footpegs


  11. #11
    Banned Snugg's Avatar
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    So as to not confuse you, here is all the info you will ever need on antifreeze. It's vital to your engine to not mix the two kinds of antifreeze. (Green & Orange)
    Most of the antifreeze products on the market currently are ethylene glycol base material with additives to prevent corrosion, lubricate seals and water pumps and aid in heat transfer to the coolant from the metal of the engine. Antifreeze should be mixed with distilled water (tap water contains high amounts of minerals such as calcium and iron that can precipitate and coat internal parts) at the ratio of one part antifreeze to one part water. This gives freeze protection down to minus 34 degrees and boil-over protection up to +265 degrees. Never use pure antifreeze in a cooling system without using at least 30 percent water in the mixture. Most antifreeze products sold for the past several years have been the traditional "green" coolant. This type is good for two to three years and up to 30,000 miles. The green antifreeze contains silicates, phosphates and / or borates as corrosion inhibitors to keep the solution alkaline. As long as the solution remains alkaline, corrosion is controlled and the system is protected. Over time, the corrosion inhibitors will be depleted and the corrosion protection is lost. It is for this reason that green antifreeze should be changed every two years or so. Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion and many vehicles have heads, radiators and other aluminum components in the cooling system. If the coolant in an engine cooling system is changed before corrosion inhibitors reach dangerously low levels, corrosion damage is prevented.

    An alternative to tradition green antifreeze is a product currently used by many engine manufacturers. "Orange" antifreeze is a long life or extended life type of antifreeze used to increase the useful life of engine coolant. It is ethylene glycol base as is the green antifreeze. The difference between the two colors is that orange antifreeze contains a different type of corrosion inhibitor that has a much longer service life than silicates, phosphates and borates. Orange antifreeze contains organic acids that protect engine parts from corrosion. Silicate (green) type antifreeze does not mix with orange type antifreeze. Never mix the two colors in a cooling system. The organic acids in orange types will cause precipitation of silicates in the green type and corrosion protection is greatly reduced. Orange type antifreezes are good for five years or 100,000/150,000 miles in newer vehicles (1996 and later). They can be used in many older vehicles (ask your vehicle dealer if it is safe to use orange antifreeze) if all of the green mixture is flushed from the system and is replaced with the orange mixture. Useful life is about four years or 60,000 miles in older cars.

    **Credit for this information goes to OklaTom**

    I prefer the Green mixed at 1:1

  12. #12
    Moderator (ADSUM) Grenadiers's Avatar
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    I purchased a gallon of pre-mixed green coolant... It will last you 2 and a half drain and re-fills worth...

    Oh, BTW, DO NOT use straight water (except in the case of an emergency)!!! Over time, water will promote corrosion throughout the whole cooling system.

    Tempus Fugit
    06 SR50 (Morini)/AIRSAL 70CC BBK/NGK BR9EIX/Top Speed-117KPH (GPS)!!
    Rear Rack & Top Case/Buzzetti Side stand/Aprilia Racing Shock W/STR8 65mmRiser/HGT Stretch Kit
    HGT PFI Kit/Malossi MHR Team II Pipe/All Polished Water Pump
    Black HGT Gen 3 Fuel Regulator/Stebel Magnum Horn/Glowshift Elite Gauge
    BING 26mm TBA/BGM Pro Reed Block & Pod Filter
    Polished Aluminum Varo W/Kick start/Pod Filter/HEL Brake Lines
    HGT Red Brake Levers/LED bulbs/BGM LED Tail Light
    Malossi Delta Clutch w/Blue springs/Red Contra spring & TC/MHR Full Circle Crank
    Malossi 15/40 Primary Gears & Multivar w/5gr Dr. Pulley Sliders/Kevlar Belt
    Michelin Pilot Sport 140/60 Rear tire w/Dyna Beads&TPMS Sensor

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