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Thread: evo slave, clutch still sucks

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert Honeybadger's Avatar
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    evo slave, clutch still sucks

    i just got my evo slave installed today, and after bleeding it, the clutch feels exactly the same... okay in the 1 lever , rough in 2, and unusable in 3 and 4 positions. i have thought it gotten to two possible problems. 1, old clutch line, or 2, i am bleeding it improperly.

    when i bleed the clutch, bike is on the center stand, cap comes off the master cylinder, and the bats go all the way to the right so it's level. pull out the little rubber diaphragm, fill the reservoir, and then use my vac pump to bleed it from the slave, having my gopher fill it up as it's being bled. when i stop seeing large bubbles, she stops filling and i drain it down to about 1/4, closer the bleeder, and replace the rubber diaphragm, then cap it off and test the clutch. no fluid goes on the upper side of the diaphragm, correct? that's actually my main question, as i haven't done a clutch on a bike before.
    2001 Futura
    (Motech's work) Lexus pearl white, Falco marzocci forks/320mm brake rotor swap, stainless brake line, 500a ford starter relay, throttlemeisters, quick release fuel line, geared down front sprocket, derestricted airbox, voltmeter, centerstand raised, power outlet.
    (My work) Bypassed tipover sensor, bypassed sidestand kill switch (retained sidestand light), renault clio ignition coils, heated grips, gutted muffler, new seat, 05 map/tune, Evo slave, new centerstand, Pilot Road 3's, MFS H pipe.

    2000 Mille R
    FZ1 handlebars, profiled fairing, new engine, CRG levers, titanium exhaust, bipost subframe, raised windscreen.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    With every thing tightened down turn the handlebars fully to the right and then lean the bike as much as you can to the right.
    This will get the m/c banjo bolt lower than the reservoir.
    Now engage the clutch handle several times and for me this gets the last of air out which is usually trapped at the banjo.

    Yes, no fluid is supposed to be above the diaphragm.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert bikpaintr's Avatar
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    As I recall none of the aftermarket slaves work well at the #3 & #4 setting as there isn't enough lever travel. As far as bleeding I open the reservoir, attach a clear hose to the slave bleeder with the other end of the hose submerged in a jar with enough old brake fluid in it to prevent the hose from sucking in air. Pump & add fluid until the line is clear of air bubbles and button it back up.
    John B.
    02 Ash Black w/Staintunes, PC3 w/custom map, Evo Filter, Mille Air Boot, derestricted air box, Heli-Bars, Wilbers shock, new rectifier, Scottoiler, heated grips, T'meister, c/f frt. fender & hugger.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum Member Corkus's Avatar
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    I am interested in your results with the Evo Slave. I am thinking of one for my bike.
    Cory
    Pleasanton California

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I leave my lever on the #1 position with the Evo slave. Mine came with a new banjo w/bleeder for the master as well as the slave. This bleeder at the top helps get that last bit of air out w/o losing the bike to the right - Doh! You can also remove the slave and push the piston in by hand. This is a back-bleed technique that was described in the directions that came with my Evo.

    Can only guess as to why, but it seems like the Evo needs a short ride and then a 2nd bleed to get all the air out. My guess is that some air gets trapped between the rings(3 of 'em) and works its way out with some exercise and heat.

    Does the Evo still come with that bearing as a spacer (no, it doesn't have to be a bearing as the pushrod does not spin)? If so, you'll need to fill the hole with a piece of 1/4" steel rod. If you don't, the end of the pushrod will slowly wear to the ID of the bearing. Have a look here and the thread listed inside. I caught mine well ahead of serious problems. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...lave%2C+damage

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert Honeybadger's Avatar
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    I saw the thread about the steel rod. I put it all together normally as of now, but I plan on redoing it soon anyways when I tackle cleaning up some wiring under there in a couple weeks.

    Will go try the "lean the bike" method, but it was so bad that on the center stand, engaging gear with the clutch in would get the wheel spinning pretty forcibly.
    2001 Futura
    (Motech's work) Lexus pearl white, Falco marzocci forks/320mm brake rotor swap, stainless brake line, 500a ford starter relay, throttlemeisters, quick release fuel line, geared down front sprocket, derestricted airbox, voltmeter, centerstand raised, power outlet.
    (My work) Bypassed tipover sensor, bypassed sidestand kill switch (retained sidestand light), renault clio ignition coils, heated grips, gutted muffler, new seat, 05 map/tune, Evo slave, new centerstand, Pilot Road 3's, MFS H pipe.

    2000 Mille R
    FZ1 handlebars, profiled fairing, new engine, CRG levers, titanium exhaust, bipost subframe, raised windscreen.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Honeybadger's Avatar
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    Tipped it very far with help, pumped it with the bars to the right about 20 times, both slow and quickly, made no difference. Clicking it into first in the 1 lever position (clutch still engaged) and the wheel spins so quickly that I can't stop it with my foot.

    This is also assuming that I'm bleeding it correctly. Is there a way to gauge the clutch feel without having to button up the MC completely? I forgot about it last time and it fired brake fluid straight up, lol.

    Also having a hard time bleeding the bitch in the first place, which might be letting excess air back into the system.. I can't recall, is teflon tape safe to use on the threads of something exposed to brake fluid? I tried grease, but it just wasn't working well enough.
    Last edited by Honeybadger; 04-10-2012 at 09:41 PM.
    2001 Futura
    (Motech's work) Lexus pearl white, Falco marzocci forks/320mm brake rotor swap, stainless brake line, 500a ford starter relay, throttlemeisters, quick release fuel line, geared down front sprocket, derestricted airbox, voltmeter, centerstand raised, power outlet.
    (My work) Bypassed tipover sensor, bypassed sidestand kill switch (retained sidestand light), renault clio ignition coils, heated grips, gutted muffler, new seat, 05 map/tune, Evo slave, new centerstand, Pilot Road 3's, MFS H pipe.

    2000 Mille R
    FZ1 handlebars, profiled fairing, new engine, CRG levers, titanium exhaust, bipost subframe, raised windscreen.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    You should feel the clutch building up pressure just after pulling the clutch lever.
    You said it was bad also with the stock slave which may point to a worn clutch bearing.
    Remove the clutch pressure plate and inspect the bearing in there.
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...=1#post2886887
    Last edited by deefred; 04-11-2012 at 12:04 AM.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie threeviews48's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Honeybadger;3086122]. Clicking it into first in the 1 lever position (clutch still engaged) and the wheel spins so quickly that I can't stop it with my foot.

    I had the same problem, I tried 2 slave cylinders, had the clutch to bits etc, finally found out that the seal had gone in the master cylinder, Renewed the m/c & it is fine

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    I'd consider the Evo a bit harder than the OE to bleed all the air out, but it was never an ordeal. Gonna agree, maybe you should look elsewhere.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert Motech's Avatar
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    I often have better luck reverse bleeding by forcing fluid up through the slave bleed screw and into the master with a syringe, same principle as the caliper below. Find a kit at better auto part stores. Keep lid on though, watch your level carefully.

    Name:  syringe bleed.jpg
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    No Matter Where You Are, There You Go!

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert Honeybadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motech View Post
    I often have better luck reverse bleeding by forcing fluid up through the slave bleed screw and into the master with a syringe, same principle as the caliper below. Find a kit at better auto part stores. Keep lid on though, watch your level carefully.
    This was my next plan, as I do have a hand pump capable of the job.

    Will report back.
    2001 Futura
    (Motech's work) Lexus pearl white, Falco marzocci forks/320mm brake rotor swap, stainless brake line, 500a ford starter relay, throttlemeisters, quick release fuel line, geared down front sprocket, derestricted airbox, voltmeter, centerstand raised, power outlet.
    (My work) Bypassed tipover sensor, bypassed sidestand kill switch (retained sidestand light), renault clio ignition coils, heated grips, gutted muffler, new seat, 05 map/tune, Evo slave, new centerstand, Pilot Road 3's, MFS H pipe.

    2000 Mille R
    FZ1 handlebars, profiled fairing, new engine, CRG levers, titanium exhaust, bipost subframe, raised windscreen.

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert SoulDaddy's Avatar
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    Seems to me that the amount of throw or deflection that the pushrod has is a constant and isn't affected by the position of the lever's adjuster.

    In other words, the 1-5 positioner only has to do with the angle of the lever with respect to the bellcrank thingie itself and does not change the amount of rotation of said bellcrank thingie therefor the pushrod is going be pushed the same distance whether the lever is on position 1 or 5.


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  14. #14
    apriliaforum Member Corkus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motech View Post
    I often have better luck reverse bleeding by forcing fluid up through the slave bleed screw and into the master with a syringe, same principle as the caliper below. Find a kit at better auto part stores. Keep lid on though, watch your level carefully.

    Name:  syringe bleed.jpg
Views: 550
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    Motech, you are full of good ideas. I am going to do this.
    Cory
    Pleasanton California

  15. #15
    apriliaforum Member
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    Souldad, I used to think that as well but there is significantly more travel of the piston in the furthest out lever position. It gives a lot more throw before the lever contacts the bar. Honeybadger, I have tried everything except a radial m/c to get mine to work better & the biggest improvement came from adjusting the clutch pushrod at the lever which I never knew could be done till I found the info here on the forum. BE SURE TO LEAVE A LITTLE FREE PLAY! Also make sure there is still a tiny bit of free play after the bike is up to temp as the fluid expands when hot.

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