Anyone know how to get the ignition off of the top clamp? I was taking bike apart to tighten steering stem nut and want to get top clamp painted/coated. I've gotten the clamp off but there is 1 thing from clamp into ignition that wont pull apart and I dont see how it releases....why didn't they use another screw and make this simple?
To prevent theft. Ignition lock cylinders have been like this forever - even my early-generation GSXRs were like this.
CURRENT BIKE
2011 RSV4R APRC
RIP to my 2003 Tuono. May she live on within other's RSV's.
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So you dont know how? I've checked ebay and it is a threaded screw so I guess I can use a left handed drill bit and get that out. I understand the theft portion and that makes sense but I'm trying to take apart my own bike here.
There isn't a way to grab it at all. I attached a photo which may help. At the risk of complete embarrassment, if you look closely you will see something missing...the immobilizer wires. I was trying to tighten my steering stem bearings and the top clamp would not release easily so I started pulling harder and harder...then it let go & flew ripping the immobilizer straight out with the top clamp. I need to access the ignition block (I see the "cover" is held on by two screws) which would allow me to attempt to solder these wires back together. This is why I also have a post on how to disable the immobilizer. If this is "private" as Chris_Mag has said, then please PM me so the instructions do no go "public". Like all of you, I just want to be able to ride my bike and right now it wont recognize the key so I can't start it which means I can't ride it. So now that I've embarrassed myself, can I get some help?
Last edited by devulge; 04-06-2012 at 09:50 AM.
I found it, http://www.insight-security.com/ssf-shearnuts.htm
I'm going to have to drill this out and grab a new one from af1 because I don't have a local dealer. FUDGE.
just drill the head and use an extractor...took me 2 min with the right tools. I used a grab-bit extractor
Haha yeah, and good luck drilling it straight; be patient. Perhaps start with a small pilot hole and move up in bit size. Once you have the head drilled off, you can remove the ignition and use a pair of vice-clamps with fresh teeth to bite into the threaded stump that remains. Remember, they use the highest-rated lock-tite on that bolt. It's not going to come out with a bolt extractor.
My last bike, an '06 R6 had two of these buggers. They are SUCH a hassle to get out. Bear in mind that the bolt is steel and the surrounding material is what, plastic? So if you drift off center, you'll chew through that housing fast.
Comforting that they don't make it easy to rip these things off. Making a true trackbike takes a lot of work, and taking it back to 100% OEM condition is definitely going to take even more. I know, I just finished rebuilding the R6. Whew! What a job.
[EDIT] Oh, damn, Nac- you're fast. I didn't think an extractor would take that out... Ok. Good luck, OP!
Thanks to all.
I just hope there is enough wiring for me to tap into or I'm buying a new ignition, gas cap, seat lock, etc. Man on man, my buddy said remove the front wheel or the clamp would be hard to get back on...getting it off was the issue but had I removed the weight of the wheel, i'm sure this would have been easier. So let this be a lesson, sometimes more prep saves a lot of pain later. Thank god I have my kids over spring break so I don't need the bike for 2 weeks and my 1098 is fine so I can ride that in the interim.
nac.00, all I have is a cordless 18v drill and a set of left handed bits...I feel like this is not going to be a 2m job. What do you mean, right tools? My father has an impact drill, would that work better?
Also the top clamp bolt and inside of top clamp is rusted so i think some rust left it stuck. What sort of grease should I use to avoid this from happening again? I'm meticulous with greasing and keeping my steering stem within spec.
I used an 18V impact drill, but any drill should work...
this is what I used....
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
as long as you use a proper extractor, it turns out just like a broken bolt....
Im an auto mechanic so I deal with stuff like this on a regular basis.
i'm leaving work now, I'll let you guys know in about 3 hours what the deal is.
are you removing it to clean up the look I am wanting to to do that and use aftermarket triples or at least a top one which makes it all look cleaner...
2012 Aprilia RSV4 Factory APRC
BST Carbon Wheels . TTX36 Ohlins . Braketech 220mm Rear Floating Rotor
I am a master with the Dremel and dremeled it to get the wires exposed and soldered it up. Inside there are 3 wires so I made a jumper and the bike starts but you have to enter in your key code every start...i removed the 3rd wire and now it starts up fine. I started it 4 times to test and all is good. Now I just need to get the clamp back into place but I'm relieved.
45 seconds to remove security pin with left hand drill bit.
Sorry to chime in so late but I removed the bolt by cutting a groove across the sheared head with a dremel then used a flat blade screw driver.
Could you tell me if to remove the antenna only I have to brake the Shear head screw ? Is there a way to split antenna from the bloc with no demage ?Originally Posted by devulge
thanks
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