My 2000.5 Mille-R didn't come with any loctite on the stator bolts.
Oops....I meant rotor bolts.
My 2000.5 Mille-R didn't come with any loctite on the stator bolts.
Oops....I meant rotor bolts.
Last edited by Diablo1; 04-04-2012 at 09:29 PM.
Hoosier, not hoser.
2000.5 Mille R - Ti Shotguns & lots of Evo shtuff
That's weird that Rotax can't even follow their own recommendations. Blue 243 on the stator screws.
My '00 USA ('99 European & ROTW) had the 243 on the stator bolts but not the 648 on the sprag housing/flywheel bolts. Chewed up my stator something fierce when one of the sprag housing bolts finally broke.
The thread on the bolts wasn't a sticky at the time I bought my bike and I missed it. I didn't find the thread until after my bolt had already broken.
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...=1#post2780871
2000 Tricolor, KTM Sprag, 16/43 sprockets, D.I.D. 525 Gold Chain, Rick's Stator version 2, RP collector modified with dual link pipes, Gabro F255 EPROM, Akrapovic slip on, Ohlins radial front forks, Falco clip-ons, 16mm Brembo radial brake master cylinder, Brembo four pad radial brake calipers, BrakeTech Axis ductile iron brake rotors, Integrated LED brake lights & blinkers, Ohlins rear shock with remote preload adjuster, Longer RS125 mirrors so I can see more than my shoulders and elbows.
ok....now im just plain pissed off...i got everything done good to go..started to bolt up the stator cover it was going on smoothly no issues (or so i thought) i was tightening the bolts in as close to a star pattern as i could and all of a sudden i hear this sharp crack noise and taduh!! the cover cracked... WTF im ready to now throw this stupid bike off the side of a mountain.. any help on this? why did it crack? and now i have to buy yet another case and wait another week...
Was the cover fully contacting the case before you tightened the bolts?
yes i figured out what i did wrong though or most of the case was making contact with its mating surfaceOriginally Posted by kzmille
ok one last issue.. my fuel pump is not priming up. i did a search found that the wires some times break so i checked that and the wires are good. i checked the fuses they are all good. what am i missing?
Kill switch?
as in a fuel pump kill mechanism? i didnt know such thing existed
I was actually thinking on the one on your right handlebar. It fooled me once. Must have accidentally pushed it while i was changing my spark plugs. It really took me some time before I figured it out.
no the killswitch is on.thanks for the input though. it turns over fine and everything just no fuel pump priming
Hmm, have you checked your fuel-pump relay?
actually didnt know if there was one? which one is it?
ok i think i figured out the problem.. in the battery area theres a regulator of some sort with 2-30 am fuse slots the front fuse is burnt out and theres a short to it somewhere..any ideas? i just put a new fuse in and it sparks and eats it ive tried following it but the only one i can clearly see without ripping through tons of wiring is the one that connects directly to the positive terminal on the battery..
Generally, when you are trying to track down something like this you disconnect everything that is powered by the fuse in question. One of the main fuses leads to the voltage regulator and two of the secondary fuses while the other leads to the ignition switch and one secondary fuse. Figure out which circuit is giving trouble and disconnect all the related items on that circuit. With everything disconnected you should be able to fit a new fuse without it blowing. If the fuse blows, you have a direct short in the wiring between the main fuses and the disconnected items. If the fuse holds, start reconnecting things, one at a time, and check on the fuse with each reconnect. You should be able to track down the problem this way.
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