Help needed to decide is it safe to buy this?

[RS_Patrick]

Motor Oil is more expensive than Gear Oil, because of all the addatives etc. in there. So thats why they Recomend Gear Oil as normaly its more than good enough, there are Gear Oils i am sure off that are perfectly good for the bike but there a little hard to find and just as expensive as Motor Oil, so i just advice the 3 oils i got the best experiance with, compaired to others the clutch operates smoother and it shifts much better.

Fully Syntetic Fork Oil last longer so you can increase the service intervals, it might also be better for the fork it self.

If you replace a Piston there are a few things you need to keep in mind and are really smart to do:
A: Hone the barrel lightly.
B: Turn the Barrel upside down on a news paper/magazine on a table and than take the (new) piston with out the rings and drop it in there in the right direction, as soon as the piston drops past the exhaust port it should slow its fall a lot because of the trapt air, and it should gently come down onto the table with out a thud.
C: Fit a slightly bigger mainjet than needed for the first 250kmh to aid in lubrication and cooling of the piston.
D: sometimes replacing just the piston rings is more than enough, but do the test described in B: to see if the piston/barrel is still ok, but i find that buying a whole imitation piston with rings usualy doesnt cost (much) more than a set of rings.

[szimat]

When I will have the bike I will probably take it to the mechanics to measure the compression, I guess that way they will be able to tell me the condition of the engine. If needed, I plan to do the replacement this winter for the new season 2013. I hope that I'll be able to drive the bike this year without doing the replacements on engine.

I'm also following the thread for AM6 Engine (link) where basically the same questions have been asked regarding the engine. From what I have understood:
- the only disadvantage of having iron cylinder compared to the aluminium is that aluminium last a little longer.On the other side, iron can be bored without any problems to fit a slightly larger piston when it is worn and the expense of boring and the new piston is quite less compare to the complete aluminium cylinder kit
- aluminium cylinder can not be bored, just honed, which I do not know how much costs, but if there is any greater damage to it then 0.5mm then the whole cylinder is trashed
- perhaps cooling is better for aluminium then iron?
- what is the stock original piston size of the 2004 (1999) version RS 50?
- any of these worth buying: Barikit 40mm Iron or Barikit 47mm Iron? The 47mm equals the size of x cm3?

- I guess I would have to buy a new crankshaft as well, especially for the 47mm?
- I intend to keep the original carb, I do not want to spend additionally on that and I will try to keep fuel as low as possible

You are really so helpful mate, respect!

I can't wait to have the bike with me. I'll certainly post some pictures and will have many more questions

BTW: it is a stupid question, but which is the best way to wash/clean the bike?

[RS_Patrick]

As for the parts wait till i got some time.
Might be much smarter to get the bike first and than see whats actualy under there.

Aluminium kits (can) last longer because of the Nikasil coating, aluminium cilinders also cool better.

Whe do not know yet what cagb is under there, but if it really still has the stock DelLorto SHA 9 or 12/14 carb you do much better replacing it, they cause a lot of problems and are seriosly less powerfull than a later PHBN carb of the same diameter.
004Best way to wash a bike in my opinion is by hand with a bucket and a soft sponge, (hand) dishwashing soap works good and gets rid of the dirt on the rims and forks easy, after that you clean it with rinse it off with water (gardenhose, spead out soft beam) and than put a teflon based wax on it, that makes it a lot easier to clean the next time and bugs dont stick as easy also.
teflon based wax is also a good thing to preserve your exhaust, just rub it on thick on the parts that are behind the fairing and dont rub it out, just rub the part of the exhaust out thats visible like the tailpipe and silencer, that will keep it from rusting.

[szimat]

Like I said, please take your time, I'm really not in a hurry at all and I do not want to take away your free time at all. I'm getting the bike (which is almost 100% sure) in mid April. Since it should be in mint condition, I'm not planning to change anything this year (if not necessary) except the required things (oils, brakes, tyres, chain, etc) and ride it this year (get used to the bike, see if it fits my needs and meets my expectations, etc). Perhaps the modifications on the engine itself might be an option this year, but only later on. I really hope the engine is in a condition that should hold at least a year

When you select the parts needed, please take into consideration that I'm on a quite a low budget regarding this whole bike project (my wife will not like my new hobby if it takes away too much of a free time and cash amongst fishing and football). Of course, I do not want to buy something that is not recommended, but I see looking at the prices that there are same parts from different manufacturer that cost even 3 times more. Like I said, best quality for lowest price

[RS_Patrick]

Well i got a big problem here... my computer died and i dont have enough money for the new parts to fix it.

But seriously, you should first get the bike, than see what you think of it, what Needs to be done, and what you want it to better regarding performance/acceleration/topspeed, saves me a lot of throuble and i can give you much better advice on what you need.

[szimat]

Regarding your computer: is it a joke related to my previous post which I don't understand or your computer really died, in that case, I'm sorry for that!

Of course, I'm getting the bike first, then we will check all the necessary thing. I'll post here the news when I got the bike in mid April.

[RS_Patrick]

My computer really died mate, at the worst posible time as i am short on money so cant buy the new parts i need for it.

[szimat]

Sorry to hear that mate! I hope you didn't lose valuable data as I did once (had regular backups, but the NAS used for backup also died), a lighting struck near the house I live and many of surrounding electronic equipment was killed by a power surge. Even though I had a UPS, it didn't prevent the damage to the hard drives.

I have an older Athlon Xp based motherboard that I don't use anymore, in case if that helps you, I can send it to you, just let me know.

[RS_Patrick]

I didnt loose any data, and thx for the offer but i need something new really, thers an topic on my computer isue in the offtopic section, so lets not take this one offtopic

[szimat]

Hi Patrick! I'm getting the bike on Wednesday, I'm so excited, just can't wait to have it. 4 to sleep and the bike is with me Since it was not used for 3 years only for few hundred km, I'm about to change all the oils (gearbox, brake, fork, and the cooling fluid), just to be on the safe side, as discussed previously. Since I do not have the knowledge to do it on my own, I will need to take the bike to a service to do the changes. I'm already ordering the discussed oils.

In terms of brake oil, I can choose from these:
- Repsol LIQUIDO FRENOS DOT 5.1 (500 ml)
- AGIP BRAKE 5.1 (250 ml)
- LIQUI-MOLY DOT5.1 (250 ml)
- MOTUL DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid (500 ml)
How much of brake oil I need (It's not in the manual), is 250ml enough? Which one would you recommend from these?

For the fork oil I choose AGIP FORK 15W 1L or perhaps MOTUL Fork oil MH 15W 1L

For the 2T oil I will go with either Shell Advance Ultra 2T or Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T

And the tricky part is with the gearbox oil. I stick to your advise and intend to buy 1L of Shell Advance 4T Ultra 10W40, but in the service they said it is not used for the RS50 and it is not a gearbox oil, I should use AGIP Gear Synth 75W90 1L or LIQUI-MOLY RACING GEAR OIL 500ml 75W90 (as per the manual). I tried to explain to them that a real expert advised me to use the Shell 10W40 for the gearbox, but they said it should not be used (of course, they would put that oil in if I ask). What do you think? I do not have many options to take the bike to another service. I guess the gearbox oil in the bike is 75W90, do I have to do any extra steps when changing the oil if I switch to 10W40 or I can follow the guide here in the forum - according to which it looks quite simple to do the change.

I think I will leave the brake and fork to the service but if no extra steps are necessary with the gearbox oil, I might be able to to it on my own.

Thanks in advance!

[RS_Patrick]

Motul DOT 5.1 500ml, thats what i use also.

If they just use google: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil
"API viscosity ratings for gear oils are not directly comparable with those for motor oil, and they are thinner than the figures suggest. For example, many modern gearboxes use a 75W90 gear oil, which is actually of equivalent viscosity to a 10W40 motor oil."

Keep in mind that you have to use Fully Syntetic Motorcycle oil suitable for Wet Clutch, you can not use Car Motor Oil as it does not have the dopes/adition needed for the gearbox and clutch.

[szimat]

Thanks Patrick!
I'm having some problems to locate Motul 5.1 oil, but I have for a very good price Repsol LIQUIDO FRENOS DOT 5.1 500ml or Agip 5.1 Brake Fluid (only 250ml, I need to get two of these, so cost more). Do you think I'm on a safe side with the Repsol oil? I read they have very good quality oils.

I'll try to explain the gearbox oil to the service and will use Shell 10W40. Do I have to clean or do anything extra or just drain the existing oil and top it with Ultra Advance 4T 10W40 as per the manual. It seams very easy, I'm sure I can do this by myself. I will leave the brake fluid change to a qualified person, who can also check the wear of the brake pads.

[Glen1990]

Beautiful bike patrick! looks like brandnew =O

[RS_Patrick]

@Glen: thx, on the other side theres some minor scratches from a fall i took wen someone in a van didnt look right or left wen driving onto the road from an driveway, otherwise the bike is in perfect condition wise the bike is in perfect condition (better than most that are just a year old) but i do need to do some work on the engine wich is getting tired after more than 10 years of hard use.

Its prety easy to change the engine oil mate just warm the engine up by a short drive (10 minutes or so) and make sure its not boiling hot, and than drain the gearbox oil while its still warm, than wen all the oil has drained you can put the other oil in.

Brakefluid doesnt really matter wich brand it is, as long as its DOT5.1

Mske sure that you use ready to use gooling fluid for motorcycles, they come in 1 littre bottles with is more than enough, bike only takes 900ml of cooling fluid.

[Glen1990]

yeah wish mine was like that, sadly mine was left outside for a year with no cover on so having a fun time cleaning everything up gonna get her all up and running and mot'ed then repray/powder coat. ohh i put Dot4 brakefluid in my brakes? is that a bad thing? or?