my T is in the garage waiting for spring but I was thinking about clutch slipping that I'd notcied during my last ride. when in 5th and 6th gear and hard on the throttle it slips over 6krpm so I have to reduce throttle... it is around 190 km/h speed mark
why might that occur? clutch is new (less than 1000 km). maybe is the slave cylinder and dirty fluid fault??? fluid is black, but that is because of the seals I was once told.
You probably know the first thing is always to tune or adjust before troubleshooting. Bleed the clutch fluid. Suck all that dirty stuff out and flush til it's pure, new, clean fluid. There are threads here about checking the piston in the slave.
This one explains how to keep the clutch fluid clean:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=15500
potere - italian for power
have M1 permit, will travel
Unless the reservoir was overfilled even the dirties of clutch fluid has nothing to do with your clutch slip.
Sometimes a change to another engine oil can be enough
2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, Mille brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod done and soldered all the contacts in the brown and white connectors to the Regulator. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging..
NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod) over all rpm. Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller
What kind of trans oil are you using?
Some automotive oils have too much Moly, and will cause your wet clutch to slip.
Redline oil has MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC oils, which have reduced MOLY content in them, for wet clutches.
If your reservoir was not overfull it may just be time to take the clutch pack out and roughen up the steels. While you have your clutch out measure the stack height and spring heights and the width of the tabs on the friction plates. If every thing is still in spec roughen up the steels on both sides by bead blasting them or sanding them with 120 grit or there abouts sandpaper. If you go the sandpaper route make sure you wash off any grit on the steels and dry them before reinstalling them.
My bike was doing the same thing, slipping a little at full throttle in 5th&6th gears. It took about 20 minutes to roughen up the steels and it has been fine ever since. That was over 20,000 miles ago. I always run 15-50 automotive oil in my bike, usually Mobil One.
2000 Tricolor, KTM Sprag, 16/43 sprockets, D.I.D. 525 Gold Chain, Rick's Stator version 2, RP collector modified with dual link pipes, Gabro F255 EPROM, Akrapovic slip on, Ohlins radial front forks, Falco clip-ons, 16mm Brembo radial brake master cylinder, Brembo four pad radial brake calipers, BrakeTech Axis ductile iron brake rotors, Integrated LED brake lights & blinkers, Ohlins rear shock with remote preload adjuster, Longer RS125 mirrors so I can see more than my shoulders and elbows.
guys, thanks for all the answers.Originally Posted by DanV990
my clutch and springs are new, steel plates are left old (did not measure them though). aha and I use MOTUL semi synthetic motor oil and it was same before so it is not the reason for slipping.
I guess I will have to disassemble the clutch and measure steel plates. what size should they be? if OK, Dan can you elaborate on the sanding procedure? is it just to make surface of the plates rough to add more 'grip' to them?
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