engine drop out, removal from frame

[amauri]

I spotted only 2 myself as well ...

Yes, there are always three spacers/shims installed at the factory assembly line.

Two 3mm thick aluminum spacers between the frame and each side of the crankcase, on the upper front motor mount, #7 in diagram.

And one steel shim (washer) between the frame and the crankcase on the RH lower mount bolt, #8 in diagram.

The lower shim can be sized from 0.5mm to 2.0mm depending on how much of a gap needs adjusting.

Every motor I've removed from a bike has had a shim on the lower bolt.
The only exception being on bikes where someone else removed the motor previously. Most people just don't see it and it ends up getting lost.

[Allen Noland]

Most people just don't see it and it ends up getting lost.

....or they use it as a flat washer under the nut.

[tehdutchie]

Well I did spot the 3mm spacers, now all I need to do is to locate the steel shim and see where I left it

Luckily the engine is still out of the frame

Thanks again Allen and Amauri!!

[emil55]

For what its worth, my two bob (Oz speak for worthless input...):

I leave the thing on it's side stand and without pulling the swing arm shaft all the way out, put a big pin part way in on the LH side (keeps the swing arm together and stops it all collapsing when you couldn't be bothered jacking frames and stuff) and the last bolt I take out is the bottom one. If you do it right, it all hinges down nicely on that last little bolt (the one with this elusive spacer). If you use a few line clamps, you won't lose much coolant bar the stuff you spill on your jeans when it hinges down on your lap. Oils drained of course.

Haven't got it down to 30mins yet but it's too hot to work fast in Oz and you often spill your beer trying!

[seanie]

G'day Emil55 its Sean i used to work at the Aprilia dealership and i belive worked on your bike. hows the bike going ? did you do the fink race or oz safari ?

[daws]

My method is similar to Emil55. I swapped my engines last week and found the best way that involves the least amount of heavy lifting is....

• Support the bike upright, if you use a lift stand make sure it's clear of the engine, toward the rear wheel under the frame.
• Remove the lower radiator mounting bolt which allows the radiators to swing forward.
• Remove the top engine mount bolt and leave a screwdriver in the hole to support the engine (noting the position of the shims).
• Push the swingarm pivot bolt out so it's clear of the engine but not all the way (this means that the swingarm stays in the correct place and makes it easier to refit).
• Support the engine at the front head, remove the screwdriver holding the engine and it should hinge down about the bottom bolt and the front valve cover will touch the floor allowing you to remove the bottom bolt and not lose the last shim. Beware, it will still be heavy!!
• reassembly is, as they say, the reverse of disassembly.

No stress and less chance of dropping in on yourself.... which is important when you're in the workshop by yourself late at night! Obviously you need to drain the oil and coolant, disconnect the wires, throttle bodies and remove exhaust pipes... but if I have to tell you that, should you really be removing and refitting engines?

[Fubb]

Gotta love this one! Taking out my engine tomorrow and this topic will really help me!

[tehdutchie]

I just laid the bike flat on the ground, easy to push the engine back in without having to lift it!

[Stevo72]

Took the engine off today, took me ruffly 2 hours...a spanner on one hand a beer on the other...LOL it's full summer in Oz!

I end up stripping most of the bike as it's my first SXV and was interested in how the all bike works...especially how they fit a V-twin engine on a SM bike, you have to give credits to the Italians even with all the "latte" problems with the engine.

If you have work on any 2 or 4 stroke dirt-bikes is quite similar routine.

Thanks again for the help guys, always mucho appreciated!